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George Bojaciuk

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About George Bojaciuk

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  • Location PA

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George Bojaciuk's Activity

  1. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic 93-95 Ford F150 firewall   

    I had one, I just sold. Let me check the shelves to see what else I have that might work,
  2. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic J2000 or Cavalier Body   

    I happen to have a Cavalier Kit. If you want I can pull it off the shelf and open it up for pics. Then you are welcome to make an offer. I'm not looking for trades as I'm trying to pare down the collection.

  3. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic Yenko vega( now under glass)   

    It did exist....almost bought a Kammback. 

  4. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic 1;25 Stock 1963 Corvette hood   

    I may have one....need to check my stock.
  5. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic Garage diorama accessories questions   

    I built a garage as a design concept for product, using the Fujimi kit as a base. As someone said, it is short, so I lengthened the floor and made my own walls.The floor extension was masked by making it concrete expansion joint.  The core of the walls was sheet plastic, the inner, wood and the outer was made from Evergreen "siding". Some Fugimi tools were used, but I looked in many of my parts boxes and found stuff I could use. SEL came in handy, big time, as did some MRC equipment from older accessory parts kits I had. I also appropriated some diecast resin accessories that I found in our storeroom . Here's what I cobbled together...

    They liked it so much that they wanted me to tear it apart and slip it into a shadow box....gave me the weekend to do it! The original top had a slit, which made it look like a tissue dispenser. I opened up the top and laid in some acrylic sheet...and no, I didn't tear it up! I made another!

    ....and so it went to production as this....you can see that the name brands were made generic!

  6. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic Body filler   

    Diecast has it's own issues. Sealing it really helps. Depending on what Zamak was used, will determine if it reacts with itself. If you look on some diecast forums, you'll see diecast cancer as a topic. There was an issue in China with Zamak and it became very expensive in short order. To meet budgets, they sub'd Zamak II instead of the better III. The II contained more copper. This did not get along with aluminum and galvanic corrosion would occur. New pennies have this issue, if you've noticed. In some instances the parts would just crumble. Diecast cars are not painted like we paint them as hobbyists. Paint comes down a spinning cylinder as parts twirl on a tree in a large room.  If you put an eye loupe on a paint job, you can see how porous it is. Moisture gets in, reacts and starts the corrosive process.
    I've repainted many diecasts and epoxy would be a good choice. It's expensive, about $25 a can, so I would line up my projects to maximize the can yield before it goes bad. You usually get a 48 hour window once you push that red button. I have used etching primer with a coat of a sealer primer. Etch doesn't like black paint and will craze it over time. You need that barrier. I have cars painted in acrylic lacquer and in urethanes and they are holding up great! However, they were painted the conventional way we do it. Better surface seal.
    As for my street creds, I was a design manager at the Franklin Mint. Any questions when you get to doing them, please feel free to PM me. Be happy to share.
  7. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic Body filler   

    I mix on business cards, not in the can. Only take what I need. My original can lasted years. Always made sure the lid was on tight. Occasionally, I'd check for separation and mix it up. The blue hardener tube (actual container) broke down over time and cracked. I just picked up another tube for only a few bucks. I finally threw my original putty away, since I had access to a fresh batch. I'd say I had it about 10 years. I've used it on home projects, as well.
    Use what you want and what your budget allows. Just sharing my personal experience with both types of fillers. If I spend many hours working on something, I don't want it cracking 6 months from now. Had it happen and it's most frustrating.
    My Motion Chevelle appeared on the cover of my book....around 1997... As I said, it still looks good more than 20 years later. (It was a magazine article car prior).
    You can get epoxy primer in cans. However once you activate the can, you have a window in which to use it. The can uses an internal bladder which you puncture to activate the two components. Freezing the can may get you a week's use since lowering the temp slows the chemical reaction. Again, on plastic, you don't need epoxy primer.
    If you go to Eastwood's site and search for "epoxy primer", there is a nice explanation and a video by Kevin Tetz. Nice guy, as I got to meet him and chat at our car show. There are a lot of great videos on the Eastwood site as well as YouTube.
  8. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic Body filler   

    Agree with Ace and my bad for not being specific on the primer, yes....epoxy primer on metal. On plastic you should be fine.
  9. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic Purple Power vs. Super Clean   

    Super Clean: Ingredients include Sodium Metasilicate and the biggie... Sodium Hydroxide. I think the purple stuff doesn't have the Sodium Hydroxide.
  10. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic Body filler   

    The can states 1/4 putty from the can to 1/4 of the tube of BLUE hardner.  From my experience 3:1. If you dig out a blob with a tongue depressor and it's about the size of a quarter, add a dimes worth of hardener. The color should be a light blue, when mixed. If you use too much catalyst (blue), it will harden rapidly, not leaving you time to work with it. Too little and it will take a while. The proper mix will give you a good 20 mins work time. Let it set overnight before you sand for the best results. 2lb can was about $29.00 with a tube of hardener.
    Autobody Toolmart.com has it. Any good auto store will carry it as well as an automotive refinishing supply shop. When I worked at Eastwood, we had it on the shelf. 
    I've done wheel flares and hood scoops and never had it shrink or crack. Love this stuff. Sands easily. My '70 Motion Chevelle had it on the hood and to this day, it looks great! Squadron Green stuff always disappointed. 
    My rule of thumb is...if it is single stage, it uses a solvent to cure. As that evaporates, it will shrink. A two stage uses a chemical reaction to cure. If using on metal, prime the metal first as any chemical cure produces heat and heat causes condensation. Trapped moisture will cause rust. The two stage does not rely on evaporation and there is no shrinkage.
    One of the party bonuses working at Eastwood! Get to know about this stuff.
  11. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic Body filler   

    I use Evercoat Eurosoft....love it! Sands easily! Quarter to dime rule on mixing. Mark Gustavson mentioned this stuff in an article and I have not looked back since. No shrinkage or issues down the lane!
  12. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic Wanted ....this is a long shot ??   

    Brian made me laugh with his post! They had a mindset after I left that they could make anything and people would just buy it. I was told by a marketing type that I sweat too many details. That's what I was hired to do! When all the car guys were gone, my favorite was Goodyear Polyglass stamped on the sidewall....yep!, 2 S's. When I emailed the guy, he said no one would notice.....guess again Batman! It was noticed and they took a beating. Today they are gone.
  13. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic Model kits wanted   

    I have several Monogram Camaros and 1 MPC. PM me if interested.
  14. George Bojaciuk added a topic in General   

    Spray Booth Vent Hose
    A while back, I encouraged a friend to change out his vinyl hose with a metal dryer hose. Recently, he went to relocate his booth and the hose disintegrated. 
    Me...I learned the hard way. I was working on a project that had a deadline. While spraying, my hose decided to self destruct, spewing fine dust all throughout the shop, while I scrambled for the switch. My project was ruined. Took a few all nighters to get back on track.
    The vinyl attracts the overspray as it goes thru the tube. It attaches to the inside walls. The solvents in the paint and in thinners eventually break down the tube. It gets brittle and becomes a time bomb!
    Home stores carry a metal dryer hose for under $10. Cheap insurance!
    • 2 replies
  15. George Bojaciuk added a post in a topic Eight Ball decals-76 Mustang II   

    I have a '75 version.