HotRodaSaurus

I once sent a Monogram Duesenberg through the post to Malta from the UK. First wrap model in a thin film plastic bag such as a shirt bag from dry cleaners being very careful not to crunch it. Next another bag similar, don't tape it. lots of tissue paper then bubble wrap until the whole package is about 5ins around, firm but not tightly wrapped. If you now wish to tape the wrapping in place, mark on the tape where the tape is then find a box around 6ins deep at least or square at the minimum. Once inside the outer box pack it with screwed up newspaper to take up larger areas, maybe add shredded paper but if using the shredded type make sure it cannot get on the model or into the packing. The packed model should not be allowed to move in the box but not overpacked as to be too tight. Any movement inside the box could allow the model to move and parts break off. Well thats how I sent my parcel and it arrived ok unbroken. The thing you cannot control is the postal operator and how they handle your items. Personally I never write FRAGILE on anything just in case my courier has had a bad day I would add that if listing on something like eBay or whatever in the description add that parts may break off during carriage, a well built model with minimal glue that looks stunning on the shelf may be far more delicate than the glue bomb built by an excited schoolboy back in the 60s J

Gerald Wingrove will fly to your house with one of his, but then the last time I read about one of his models the price was around $25,000 and that was in the 1990s

For bodywork, my favourite is rattle can acrylic ivory, or a light cream if you prefer. I think cream is a little more subtle rather than virgin bride white or matching Kim Kardashian's teeth such as my Gunze Cadillac and Frog Cortina pictured here. I never took many pictures of my old models so sorry I can't compare it.

I built this kit when it first came out, painted it Ivory with a red oxblood colour interior. I found it a great build but never noticed the 3.8 on the engine block. The fiddliest parts were the metal detailing but I got it on in the end. Don't have it anymore which is a shame. The plain steel wheels were often seen on the 240 series together with simple wrap around bumpers rather than the fluted ones in this kit. In my opinion and I guess that is only my opinion is that this car looks best with plain blackwall tyres rather than the big whitewalls so often seen on some versions, same with the E-Type, though the thin white bands may be more acceptable. Want to see a Mk2 doing what it does best? Catch the Youtube car chase from the British crime drama 'Robbery', Directed by Peter Yates who was also responsible for the chase in Bullitt. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlFAn_8vuig It is in sort of real time as they say so chase starts at around 08:20 Another Jaguar chase, this time it looks like a 420 rather than a Mk2 from John Wayne's Brannigan: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLyydMrg5_s And there is a Beetle in it......seen more than once

A great colour choice, something similar was also in the GM paint choices I believe. And yes, not every one want an Elvis pink Cadillac. I do think the fluting of the hood on this kit, and also the hard top is not as deep as it should be, and does not extend far enough up to the windshield as on the real thing. I compared my kit to a photo of my own 1960 Cadillac and found the Franklin Mint version is a lot more realistic in shape and profile. As for the foil, I had not used a sheet for some years so it was all crinkled up so not really usable. There are Youtube clips on how to make your own which is the way I go now. Kit Kat foil wrappers are best as they are thinest.

Even that could be pepped up with a Raymond Mays manifold and carb set up.

Looks cool, takes a great designer to really make something from these late 50s cars. Should make a cooooool model

I love all those 'Gangster' parts in the MPC Chrysler and Lincoln series. I just can't see kids being even allowed to know what a bootlegger did for a living by todays nanny state, let alone buy a model kit with a tommy gun, gangsters moll, a cosh and bottles of booze included as optional extras. Though you could counter that by building the Police versions(the good guys) haha.

I am curious to know why some model paint colours, particularly black, red and some metallic enamels are real hard work to remove? Oven cleaner sometimes will not touch these colours and I don't usually like going the domestic bleach route.

I sold this on eBay last year, don't know if anybody here bought it but with it's inch thick paint job it would be a bit of a challenge

Saw one for sale in the UK around 15 years ago £3,000. Brilliantly cheap I thought at the time. Not quite what I call a classic but looked appreciating in a few years. Wish for a kit of the 406 Estate

Building the Continental I found cutting the dash where it meets the screen, then allowing the clear to slide between the dash and body helped the 'glass keep its shape.

Love it, the colour works fine. I had one of these(a 1974), my first American car Ok it's not a 60s Shelby but when we all went out in it everyone loved the way the body rocked and the front end rose up when we put it to the wood. All that and it was only a V6 notch back. Always wanted the 1/16 kit but never got it

OOOOOOHHH I do like it when a rare bug gets a V8, Should have been a genuine split, even better

I have an unopened tube of the very same glue, tube is still pliable so guess that = usable or is it something for the vintage collectors on the 'Bay'

AH, so we are off for a lap of the Nurburgring are we

As an apprenticed engineer, we were always taught the smaller the drill the faster the cutting speed. But when drilling plastics I have noticed that the built up friction can melt the plastic so yes it's slow speeds. Are any kind of coolants available. The last thing I used was an Archimedestype and a 0.5mm to drill out the holes in a motorcycle(Tamaya Hayabusa) wheel disc

Yes a great kit, especially in original shiny Monogram plastic. The car and the scenes used for these 'Classic ' kits were fantastic. I love this too, reminds me of a town on the Rhine I visited called Bacharach am Rhine(Yes as in Burt)

Yes thats it. To be honest I thought it was a pen used for marking X-rays. Don't usually bother with glasses for reading small print on marker pens so thanks

As it says, has or does anyone collect old 1960s model car magazines with this title? Try putting "Model Car magazine" in a search of whatever and see how many different titles pop up. This is my image by the way, I'm not trying to sell it on here but if you were, what title would you put in the header description to differentiate between 101 other titles containing Model Car? Probably the most frustrating sale I have ever had to place on there No thats not a Tom Daniel S'Cool Bus and I have another issue containing a sort of Rommel's Rod, built from a Monogram military SdKfz kit(or something like that)

Thanks for that, never heard of it before so I was way off the mark. Basically what we call in England a felt pen, or marker pen, and when shaped a calligraphy pen. I use one that has a .2mm tip, for some reason I have never looked up it is sold as a radiography pen. Comes in handy for marking saw lines etc ?

What's a 'Sharpie' please, some kind of modelling knife?

Brilliant model. Looks like it is straight out of an old Hop Up little pages magazine. I built one too in a Westergard style based on a Hot Rod magazine centrefold by Bob Williams.

Ok I am bit of a casting virgin but what is the difference and what are the advantages of each resin. I have asked this on other sites but not had a really clear answer though I believe casters such as Modelhaus used polyurethane. Help me please as I have lots of polyester resin and thought it may be some use but........? Cheers, John

Tamiya Lola T70. Kit for £79 + spray paint, other paint, foil, new glue. No photo etch for this back in the 90s so time like most of us was the main event. probably came to around £150.