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forwardlook60

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About forwardlook60

  • Rank
    MCM Regular
  • Birthday 02/22/1951

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    http://

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  • Scale I Build
    1/25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Wilmette, Illinois
  • Full Name
    Stephen Koch
  1. Shock boots

    Yes, simply find a correctly sized spring, stretch it out just a tad, get some heat-shrink tubing from Radio Shack and shrink it over the spring....prime and paint the desired color then detail appropriately. Steve
  2. New To The Forum

    Thanks to one and all for the great comments. Although this thread was posted nearly two years ago, the renewed welcome is appreciated. For those seriously interested in constructing such a model, I still have my initial drawings and a small number of the self-made decals. This model is a replica of the trailer my parents hauled behind our 1957 Plymouth Suburban for our trip west in 1957. I am working on completing a replica of that car based on the Modelhaus kit. So perhaps in the near future, pictures of this trailer, being pulled by that car, may appear here. Again, thanks to all.....and to all a very happy Thanksgiving. Steve
  3. Attn:Question for Greg H. owner of Model cars mag

    I too am a big fan of PayPal and I won't buy from a seller who does not accept it. In addition to Bill's reference as to explaining the upset many have with this latest development, there is still another reason (and bear in mind, I don't know whether this condition will persist into the new changes) and that is: PayPal accounts are FREE if you have a base account. If you have a 'commercial account', PayPal will charge a fee for every transaction. The difference between the base account and a commercial account is primarily the ability to receive payments made with a credit card. In other words, if a buyer elects to pay you with a credit card and you have a base account with PayPal, you cannot receive the funds without upgrading to a commercial account. I think that this has been one of the main gripes that sellers have with the system. But just like any business these days (as both Harry and CAL pointed out) if you want to expand your business, taking credit cards is a must. The by-product of this is, of course, fees. When restaurants (or any business for that matter) take credit cards, they are charged a fee...why should eBay sellers be any different? The fact is, someday checks, M.O.s and paper money will become obsolete. The payment for all goods by electronic transfer just makes good sense.....and costs substantially less. As a long-time eBay seller, I love PayPal. It makes bookkeeping easier, more precise and is more convenient...and for all the reasons Harry alluded to. For those who espouse the idea that they don't want PayPal (..or any other online payment service) getting into their business, you might as well get used to it. And remember too, eBay's claim that most sellers do prefer PayPal is correct. Steve
  4. 2 doubts...

    Hi Alexandre, With regard to your question(s) regarding the painting of undercarraiges, each manufacturer did it differently. I can help you out with question one to a certain degree (I am not that familiar with Ford and GM) and I'm sure that some of the other guys can pick up where I've left off. I can speak to the question as it applies to Chrysler products. However, if you have seen Fords or GMs with the same appearance, it probably is as a result of the same process explained below. After 1960 all Chrysler Corporation cars (with the exception of Imperial) were manufactured in a monocoque (single shell) fashion. Chrysler called it Unibody construction. This means that the body, floorpan and chassis are all one piece and as a result were painted as one piece. The body, after being dipped in rust inhibitors, was painted with grey primer...then when the sides were painted, overspray of body color found it's way onto the chassis. The reason why you may see cars with more paint and less primer showing (...or sometimes the obverse) is simply because of inconsistency during the painting process. Now, the way you would achieve this effect in scale is like this: (Assuming that you are painting a Unibody car) Look carefully at several 1:1 pictures of the car you will replicate to get the 'feel' for that look you are going for. *** Do not apply the front/rear suspension parts/assembly(s) or the exhaust/mufflers *** *** Mask the gas tank *** 1. Prep your chassis for painting. 2. Primer the entire chassis with medium grey primer. 3. When the primer is dry, you will apply your body color. Do this by spraying at a low angle to the sides of the chassis and mist the color onto the chassis as you move from fron to back. Be careful not to make the coat(s) heavy. The look that you are trying to get is the appearance of a heavier saturation of color on the sides and misting or fading to grey primer down the centerline. I would practice this technique on an older chassis first before you attempt it on a real build. After a while you will have the 'touch'. As I said, it would be my guess that other cars manufactured Unibody fashion would also have been painted simularly. Hope this helps. Steve
  5. Finished! 1963 Chrysler Turbine Car

    Harry, You are both right and wrong about the Turbine Car program. Government tax levis along with liability issues were the reason why 40 of the 50 cars were destroyed. Chrysler had been experimenting with turbine powered vehicles since 1954 and the competition certainly had ample opportunity to see what made these things tick. I am sure that during the 1964-1965 test program, some GM or Ford ‘spy’ would have been able to get a look at one of the test vehicles. Actually Chrysler’s intention was to have these cars evaluated by ordinary people. The records show that virtually none of the ‘amateur’ test drivers were big-wigs or ‘insiders’. My folks were among the 203 people chosen to evaluate the Turbine Car. We received the car in March of 1964 and had it for 3 months (as did all of the testers) and drove it about 5,000 miles. At the end of the testing period, my parents completed the company’s questionnaire and were interviewed twice by Chrysler’s engineering and Turbine program reps. The day that the car was returned (to my uncle’s dealership) it was immediately loaded on a truck and on it’s way (presumably to the next tester). One of the main problems facing the testers was availability of fuel. Chrysler recommended JP4, Kerosene or diesel fuel but NOT leaded gas. Back then you would have to hunt for a source of fuel for the car...although my parents got imaginative and ordered extra supplies of home heating oil and threw in some Kerosene. But I understand it was an issue for some of the drivers testing the car. We took a trip to Florida with it (to visit my uncle there) during spring vacation and it was one of the most exciting times of my life. At any rate, 10 of the cars were spared destruction and 7 now reside in museums and 2 owned by Chrysler (one being on display at the WPC Museum and the other still being used for testing). One is questionably in private hands (the question of ownership, I understand, is one of title certification). I was able to ascertain that the Turbine Car loaned to my parents was, in fact, one of the 40 vehicles destroyed in 1966. Steve
  6. Whatever Will Bee Will Bee

    Hi, and a happy 4th to all. Well here is yet another installment of the Bee's return to the hive. The engine has been mounted and most all of the engine bay details completed. On the exterior, all that remains is to detail the side marker relectors and installation of the door handles and antenna (will finish that when hood work is done). Here are some additional photos of the work to date. Overview of the engine bay A closer look.. A view with the air cleaner installed The right front wheel/tire As stated before, I've treated the interior to a headliner, sunvisors and dome light... here are a couple of pics And finally, here is a shot of the rear end detailed... BILL: With regard to the Mulroney sticker and owner's manual, I drew both of them in CorelDraw from scratch. Even the logos were created there. I researched all of the price and code data and included them in a full-sized piece (which I will display with the model). For the model's window sticker, I simply reduced it to fit the left rear quarter window. So, with that template done and most all of the pricing and code data collected, I can created a full-sized (and subsequently a miniature) replica for any '69 or '70 MoPar. Kind of neat huh? Best to all, Steve
  7. Another one new to the forum!

    Bill, I quite agree. Along with yours, these are (especially that Camaro) the most convincing replicas I've ever seen. Hawk, your work is exquisite! A most hearty welcome to you. Like I do with each of Bill's builds, I'll be looking forward to seeing all of your offerings. And also like Bill's, this is kind of quality I aspire to emulate. Fine work. Steve
  8. Whatever Will Bee Will Bee

    Back again with the 2nd installment of the update on the construction of the '69 Hemi Super Bee. Here is one more shot of the interior. It illustrates the installation of the under-dash heater unit. Jumping ahead. I filled the open area of the 'glass' insert and scribed headliner detail into it (pictures of that later) and further, installed sunvisors. To give the model a bit more realism, I built and installed a partially rolled-down right rear quarter window. Here are some pictures of the installed 'glass/headliner' and interior. I also made a Mulroney sticker and owner's manual (seen sitting on top of the dash). Since I was unable to obtain a resin 'stock' hood, I was forced to scratch build one. It is actually an amalgam of the kit hood and the hood from the '70 Dodge Super Bee. I found that the scoops from the '71 Duster worked better so they were used here. Here are some shots of the hood after color coat and on the car. I also scratch built the underhood bracing for the same reason as on the 1:1 car (to protect the delicate construction). ...and one of the body Bare-Metal foiled and decaled: Since the real Hemi's came with the RAM air induction system, I am constructing it. This is easier said than done since the kit's hood/engine were not designed for it. It has required kitbashing the plenums from both the '70 Super Bee and the JoHan '69 Road Runner. That assembly is nearly finished. As of today, the engine has been mounted and most all of the engine bay detailing completed. I'll try to have some photos for a new update tomorrow or Thursday showing the car near completion.
  9. Whatever Will Bee Will Bee

    Hi All, It's been a long while since my last update on this project. But I have made some progress as will be illustrated in this update. First, the engine. As I stated from the outset, I modified the Hemi from the R-M '69 Charger for inclusion in this replica. The detail level of the engine and plans for detailing the engine bay have required a good number of hours be spent on engine construction. The engine is complete now but I did not take final pictures of it. However, I did take some snaps of it just before I finished decaling, addition of a few details and final touch-up. Here is the engine looking down on the carb assembly Here is a shot with the air cleaner installed A shot from the rear If you look carefully at the alternator you will be able to see the armature windings through the blades. For this I scooped out each side of the alternator then built the windings using filament wire. This was a tedious task. Here are some shots. Here are some shots of the interior before mounting in the body. I elected to use the dash from the '69 Charger kit as I felt that it looked more prototypically correct than the Monogram dash. This too required alot of heavy modification. Alot of time and attention was spent on hand painting and detailing the steering wheel and console to actually give the appearance of real wood. Also, since this car is being built with a TorqueFlite, the console had to be altered to reflect the correct bezel for an automatic. Next update installment to follow. Steve
  10. List Your Modeling Heroes...

    1st. Juha Airio - Undoubtedly the finest modeler in the world. He has created some of the most beautiful models ever and always with the highest degree of ingenuity, imagination, detail, creativity and accuracy. As if his prototype models (which require the highest level of modeling skill) weren't enough, he has built many gorgeous customs that demonstrate sensitivity and great aesthetic taste. The standard-bearer of the model car hobby! 2nd. Uwe (Oldstyle) from Germany - Like Juha Airio his attention to even the smallest detail is unsurpassed. 3rd. Bill Geary - Again, his ingenuity and attention to detail can't be understated. His approach and dedication to the hobby are to be both admired and emulated. 4th. Dean Milano - Some of the most outstanding paint jobs ever seen on scale models. Again, a fellow with the ability to create something fantastic from seemingly nothing. Also, in addition to being a great builder, he is one of the true ambassadors and perpetuators of our hobby...and a great guy. 5th. Bill Clouser - Not as much for model cars but he stood for what all of the above mentioned fellows do in the model railroading hobby...as a matter of fact, set the standard for it...truly one of my all-time heros. 6th. Eric Bronsky - Like Bill Clouser, Bronsky is a leader, if not the vanguard, of model railroading and architectual modeling. Steve
  11. Detailing Dash Gauges

    Hi, There are several different ways to detail the gauges. One way is to use a toothpick. Prepare your paint...dull the point of the toothpick ever-so-slightly (experiment a bit and test it on some scrap pieces)...dip the toothpick in the paint and wick most of it off on a clean paper towel...then carefully 'brush' the toothpick accross the characters. It will require a steady hand and a magnifier would help. This method is dependant on how good the character relief is. The better the relief, the easier this method is. Another way to do it is to flow paint into the gauge face then using a Q-Tip or clean rag (dipped in thinner) to wipe the surface of the relief characters. Again, a steady hand is necessary. In both of the above cases, I would suggest using either Tamiya or Model Master (Testors) Acryl paint, as they are water soluable and if you mess up, it is a fairly easy task to simply clean it off and start over. Remember, what you are trying to do is to just touch-over the tops of the relief. You could try dry-brushing with a conventional brush, but you run the risk of over-painting. That is why the toothpick is recommended. Then there is the decal method. Many kits provide decals of gauge faces on their decal sheets. The decal method works best when the relief is very poor or non-existent. If you have the resouces (ie: the proper printer, decal material and overcoats) then you could create your own decals. As has been suggested right here on the forum, there are many online sources for gauge face art. You would simply download them, resize and print...then cut them out and apply. I think that Detail Master also sells a gauge face decal set. If you decide to go with decals, you should have some kind of decal setting solution handy (like Micro-Sol or SolveSet). This will make the decals hunker-down into the recesses and make the decal appear more realistic. I hope that this helps. Steve
  12. Real Or Model #28 Finished!

    It looks like both photos are pics of a real car but heavily retouched with an airbrush. The shading on the RS (quarter, door and bumper) stand out as does the LR (quarter and door) on the other shot. As a long shot I'd even go so far as to say that it could be an airbrushed drawing taken from a real cars portrait. But I would guess not a model. Or, at least, not before it was introduced to PhotoShop. Steve
  13. Photo Posting Help, One Last Time

    First, the photos must reside in the directory/folder that you are attempting to upload from. In other words, if you are in PhotoBucket and you choose 'browse' (to select the photo(s) that you wish to upload), you will have to navigate to where the files (photos) are. If they are, indeed, in your My Pictures folder, then you should see them there to select...if not, then they simply are not there. It is a good idea to make 'sub-folders' within your My Pictures folder that will contain the photos that you collect. That way you can always navigate to the folder that contains photos that pertain to a certain subject. An example of this would be: MY PICTURES---- MODELS---- 67 VETTE--- CONSTRUCTION FINISHED 56 FORD--- CONSTRUCTION FINISHED FAMILY PICS---- UNCLE JOE 2007 XMAS PARTY KIDS You get the idea. You could structure this folder setup anyway that you wish but you must PUT the photos in THAT directory. That is to say that you must move them from the camera to the folders in which they will reside. You could simply put all of your photos in the My Pictures folder but if you are like me, and have literally thousands of photos, you would need some kind of system for keeping track of them. Another point to consider is format. Most cameras today take pictures in JPG format...but some still use TIF or BMP. The more expensive ones even take them in JPG and RAW. The point here is that when you upload the photos to PhotoBucket, they should all be in JPG format AND sized for internet consumption. I make a habit of sizing (resizing, that is) most all of my PhotoBucket uploads to no more than 180 DPI (Dots Per Inch). I know that this is probably more info than you need...but it is helpful to consider internet etiquette. Just make sure that the photos that you want to upload to PhotoBucket are in a place/folder where YOU KNOW that they reside. Then just use PhotoBucket's browse function to navigate to where the pictures are...select them, then upload. Hope that this helps... Steve
  14. What do you drive?

    Everyday driver is a 2005 PT Cruiser…but even on nice winter days I interchangeably use…… 1960 Chrysler New Yorker 2 door HT with 56,000 original miles (found at Jefferson, WI in 2001). 1955 Dodge Custom Royal 4 door sedan with 63,000 original miles (presently has 86,000) acquired locally in 1982. 1955 Packard Clipper Custom 4 door sedan with 58,000 original miles acquired locally in 1987. 1948 Packard Custom Eight 4 door sedan with 74,000 original miles acquired locally in 2000. 1956 Chrysler New Yorker St. Regis 2 door HT with 49,000 original miles acquired locally in 2000
  15. Whatever Will Bee Will Bee

    Thanks guys, Don, who markets that hood conversion kit? Years ago it was MPB Products but I don't think that they're in business anymore. I think that it was around 1995 or 1996...I got one set for a project that I was working on at the time (an RT). I haven't been able to locate another set since. I looked on eBay, as you suggested but, no joy. Right now I am attempting to basically scratchbuild the hood by cutting out the center-rear section of the Monogram's hood and grafting in the center-rear section of the AMT 70 Super Bee's. I wish that I did have one of those conversion hoods...it would make this project a heck of alot easier.If you know where I might procure one (or two), you might want to post it. UPDATE: The interior is nearly finished...just the dash to complete. I will most likely sand/polish out the body in the next couple of days and prep it for a clear-coat. When that is done, I can post some additional photos. The "MrObsessive" bug has really bitten me...so much so that now I'm thinking of doing another '69...only this time an RT using an entirely different floor pan and chassis and adding everything....including the famous MrObsessive working suspension (no easy task with the torsion bars). I tried that once before building a 1955 Packard, which has the transverse torsion bars...became so complex to make it work that I gave up on it and it has sat in the box on the shelf ever since. I always figured that I would try to tackle it again someday. Thanks, Steve