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About forwardlook60

  • Rank
    MCM Regular
  • Birthday 02/22/1951

Contact Methods

  • Website URL http://

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build 1/25

Profile Information

  • Location Wilmette, Illinois
  • Full Name Stephen Koch

forwardlook60's Activity

  1. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic Shock boots   

    Yes, simply find a correctly sized spring, stretch it out just a tad, get some heat-shrink tubing
    from Radio Shack and shrink it over the spring....prime and paint the desired color then detail

  2. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic New To The Forum   

    Thanks to one and all for the great comments. Although this thread was posted
    nearly two years ago, the renewed welcome is appreciated.

    For those seriously interested in constructing such a model, I still have my
    initial drawings and a small number of the self-made decals.

    This model is a replica of the trailer my parents hauled behind our 1957
    Plymouth Suburban for our trip west in 1957. I am working on completing
    a replica of that car based on the Modelhaus kit. So perhaps in the near
    future, pictures of this trailer, being pulled by that car, may appear here.

    Again, thanks to all.....and to all a very happy Thanksgiving.

  3. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic Attn:Question for Greg H. owner of Model cars mag   

    I too am a big fan of PayPal and I won't buy from a seller who does not
    accept it. In addition to Bill's reference as to explaining the upset many
    have with this latest development, there is still another reason (and bear
    in mind, I don't know whether this condition will persist into the new
    changes) and that is: PayPal accounts are FREE if you have a base account.
    If you have a 'commercial account', PayPal will charge a fee for every
    transaction. The difference between the base account and a commercial
    account is primarily the ability to receive payments made with a credit
    card. In other words, if a buyer elects to pay you with a credit card and
    you have a base account with PayPal, you cannot receive the funds without
    upgrading to a commercial account. I think that this has been one of the
    main gripes that sellers have with the system. But just like any business
    these days (as both Harry and CAL pointed out) if you want to expand your
    business, taking credit cards is a must. The by-product of this is, of course,
    fees. When restaurants (or any business for that matter) take credit cards,
    they are charged a fee...why should eBay sellers be any different?
    The fact is, someday checks, M.O.s and paper money will become
    obsolete. The payment for all goods by electronic transfer just makes
    good sense.....and costs substantially less.
    As a long-time eBay seller, I love PayPal. It makes bookkeeping easier,
    more precise and is more convenient...and for all the reasons Harry
    alluded to. For those who espouse the idea that they don't want PayPal
    (..or any other online payment service) getting into their business, you
    might as well get used to it. And remember too, eBay's claim that most
    sellers do prefer PayPal is correct.

  4. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic 2 doubts...   

    Hi Alexandre,

    With regard to your question(s) regarding the painting of undercarraiges,
    each manufacturer did it differently. I can help you out with question
    one to a certain degree (I am not that familiar with Ford and GM) and I'm
    sure that some of the other guys can pick up where I've left off.
    I can speak to the question as it applies to Chrysler products. However,
    if you have seen Fords or GMs with the same appearance, it probably is
    as a result of the same process explained below. After 1960
    all Chrysler Corporation cars (with the exception of Imperial) were
    manufactured in a monocoque (single shell) fashion. Chrysler called it
    Unibody construction. This means that the body, floorpan and chassis are
    all one piece and as a result were painted as one piece. The body, after
    being dipped in rust inhibitors, was painted with grey primer...then when
    the sides were painted, overspray of body color found it's way onto the
    chassis. The reason why you may see cars with more paint and less
    primer showing (...or sometimes the obverse) is simply because of
    inconsistency during the painting process.
    Now, the way you would achieve this effect in scale is like this:

    (Assuming that you are painting a Unibody car)
    Look carefully at several 1:1 pictures of the car you will
    replicate to get the 'feel' for that look you are going for.
    *** Do not apply the front/rear suspension parts/assembly(s) or
    the exhaust/mufflers ***
    *** Mask the gas tank ***

    1. Prep your chassis for painting.
    2. Primer the entire chassis with medium grey primer.
    3. When the primer is dry, you will apply your body color.
    Do this by spraying at a low angle to the sides of the chassis
    and mist the color onto the chassis as you move from fron to back.
    Be careful not to make the coat(s) heavy. The look that you
    are trying to get is the appearance of a heavier saturation
    of color on the sides and misting or fading to grey primer down
    the centerline.

    I would practice this technique on an older chassis first before you
    attempt it on a real build. After a while you will have the 'touch'.

    As I said, it would be my guess that other cars manufactured
    Unibody fashion would also have been painted simularly.

    Hope this helps.

  5. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic Finished! 1963 Chrysler Turbine Car   


    You are both right and wrong about the Turbine Car
    program. Government tax levis along with liability issues
    were the reason why 40 of the 50 cars were destroyed. Chrysler had been
    experimenting with turbine powered vehicles since
    1954 and the competition certainly had ample opportunity
    to see what made these things tick. I am sure that during
    the 1964-1965 test program, some GM or Ford ‘spy’ would have
    been able to get a look at one of the test vehicles.
    Actually Chrysler’s intention was to have these cars evaluated
    by ordinary people. The records show that virtually none
    of the ‘amateur’ test drivers were big-wigs or ‘insiders’. My
    folks were among the 203 people chosen to evaluate the
    Turbine Car. We received the car in March of 1964 and
    had it for 3 months (as did all of the testers) and drove it
    about 5,000 miles. At the end of the testing period, my
    parents completed the company’s questionnaire and were
    interviewed twice by Chrysler’s engineering and Turbine program
    reps. The day that the car was returned (to my uncle’s dealership)
    it was immediately loaded on a truck and on it’s way (presumably
    to the next tester). One of the main problems facing the testers
    was availability of fuel. Chrysler recommended JP4, Kerosene or
    diesel fuel but NOT leaded gas. Back then you would have to
    hunt for a source of fuel for the car...although my parents got
    imaginative and ordered extra supplies of home heating oil and
    threw in some Kerosene. But I understand it was an issue for
    some of the drivers testing the car.
    We took a trip to Florida with it (to visit my uncle there) during
    spring vacation and it was one of the most exciting times of my life.
    At any rate, 10 of the cars were spared destruction and 7 now
    reside in museums and 2 owned by Chrysler (one being on display
    at the WPC Museum and the other still being used for testing). One
    is questionably in private hands (the question of ownership, I understand,
    is one of title certification). I was able to ascertain that the Turbine Car
    loaned to my parents was, in fact, one of the 40 vehicles destroyed in

  6. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic Whatever Will Bee Will Bee   

    Hi, and a happy 4th to all.

    Well here is yet another installment of the Bee's return to
    the hive. The engine has been mounted and most all of the
    engine bay details completed. On the exterior, all that remains
    is to detail the side marker relectors and installation of the
    door handles and antenna (will finish that when hood work
    is done).

    Here are some additional photos of the work to date.

    Overview of the engine bay

    A closer look..

    A view with the air cleaner installed

    The right front wheel/tire

    As stated before, I've treated the interior to a headliner, sunvisors and dome light...
    here are a couple of pics

    And finally, here is a shot of the rear end detailed...

    BILL: With regard to the Mulroney sticker and owner's manual, I drew both of them
    in CorelDraw from scratch. Even the logos were created there. I researched all
    of the price and code data and included them in a full-sized piece (which I will display
    with the model). For the model's window sticker, I simply reduced it to fit the
    left rear quarter window. So, with that template done and most all of the pricing
    and code data collected, I can created a full-sized (and subsequently a miniature)
    replica for any '69 or '70 MoPar. Kind of neat huh?

    Best to all, Steve
  7. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic Another one new to the forum!   

    Bill, I quite agree. Along with yours, these are (especially that Camaro) the
    most convincing replicas I've ever seen. Hawk, your work is exquisite!
    A most hearty welcome to you. Like I do with each of Bill's builds, I'll be
    looking forward to seeing all of your offerings. And also like Bill's, this is
    kind of quality I aspire to emulate.

    Fine work.

  8. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic Whatever Will Bee Will Bee   

    Back again with the 2nd installment of the update on the construction of
    the '69 Hemi Super Bee.

    Here is one more shot of the interior. It illustrates the installation of the
    under-dash heater unit.

    Jumping ahead. I filled the open area of the 'glass' insert and scribed headliner detail
    into it (pictures of that later) and further, installed sunvisors. To give the model a bit
    more realism, I built and installed a partially rolled-down right rear quarter window.
    Here are some pictures of the installed 'glass/headliner' and interior.
    I also made a Mulroney sticker and owner's manual (seen sitting on top of the dash).

    Since I was unable to obtain a resin 'stock' hood, I was forced to scratch build one. It is actually
    an amalgam of the kit hood and the hood from the '70 Dodge Super Bee. I found that the
    scoops from the '71 Duster worked better so they were used here.

    Here are some shots of the hood after color coat and on the car. I also scratch built the
    underhood bracing for the same reason as on the 1:1 car (to protect the delicate construction).

    ...and one of the body Bare-Metal foiled and decaled:

    Since the real Hemi's came with the RAM air induction system, I am constructing it. This is
    easier said than done since the kit's hood/engine were not designed for it. It has required
    kitbashing the plenums from both the '70 Super Bee and the JoHan '69 Road Runner. That
    assembly is nearly finished. As of today, the engine has been mounted and most all of the
    engine bay detailing completed.

    I'll try to have some photos for a new update tomorrow or Thursday showing the car near
  9. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic Whatever Will Bee Will Bee   

    Hi All,

    It's been a long while since my last update on this project. But I have made some
    progress as will be illustrated in this update.

    First, the engine. As I stated from the outset, I modified the Hemi from the R-M
    '69 Charger for inclusion in this replica. The detail level of the engine and plans for
    detailing the engine bay have required a good number of hours be spent on engine
    construction. The engine is complete now but I did not take final pictures of it. However,
    I did take some snaps of it just before I finished decaling, addition of a few details
    and final touch-up.

    Here is the engine looking down on the carb assembly

    Here is a shot with the air cleaner installed

    A shot from the rear

    If you look carefully at the alternator you will be able to see the armature windings
    through the blades. For this I scooped out each side of the alternator then built the
    windings using filament wire. This was a tedious task. Here are some shots.

    Here are some shots of the interior before mounting in the body. I elected to use the
    dash from the '69 Charger kit as I felt that it looked more prototypically correct than
    the Monogram dash. This too required alot of heavy modification. Alot of time and
    attention was spent on hand painting and detailing the steering wheel and console to
    actually give the appearance of real wood. Also, since this car is being built with a
    TorqueFlite, the console had to be altered to reflect the correct bezel for an automatic.

    Next update installment to follow.

  10. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic List Your Modeling Heroes...   

    1st. Juha Airio - Undoubtedly the finest modeler in the world. He has created some of the most beautiful
    models ever and always with the highest degree of ingenuity, imagination, detail, creativity and accuracy. As
    if his prototype models (which require the highest level of modeling skill) weren't enough, he has built many
    gorgeous customs that demonstrate sensitivity and great aesthetic taste. The standard-bearer of the model
    car hobby!

    2nd. Uwe (Oldstyle) from Germany - Like Juha Airio his attention to even the smallest detail is unsurpassed.

    3rd. Bill Geary - Again, his ingenuity and attention to detail can't be understated. His approach and dedication
    to the hobby are to be both admired and emulated.

    4th. Dean Milano - Some of the most outstanding paint jobs ever seen on scale models. Again, a fellow with
    the ability to create something fantastic from seemingly nothing. Also, in addition to being a great builder, he
    is one of the true ambassadors and perpetuators of our hobby...and a great guy.

    5th. Bill Clouser - Not as much for model cars but he stood for what all of the above mentioned fellows do in
    the model railroading hobby...as a matter of fact, set the standard for it...truly one of my all-time heros.

    6th. Eric Bronsky - Like Bill Clouser, Bronsky is a leader, if not the vanguard, of model railroading and
    architectual modeling.

  11. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic Detailing Dash Gauges   


    There are several different ways to detail the gauges. One way is to use a toothpick. Prepare your
    paint...dull the point of the toothpick ever-so-slightly (experiment a bit and test it on some scrap
    pieces)...dip the toothpick in the paint and wick most of it off on a clean paper towel...then carefully
    'brush' the toothpick accross the characters. It will require a steady hand and a magnifier would
    help. This method is dependant on how good the character relief is. The better the relief, the easier
    this method is.

    Another way to do it is to flow paint into the gauge face then using a Q-Tip or clean rag (dipped in
    thinner) to wipe the surface of the relief characters. Again, a steady hand is necessary.

    In both of the above cases, I would suggest using either Tamiya or Model Master (Testors) Acryl
    paint, as they are water soluable and if you mess up, it is a fairly easy task to simply clean it off
    and start over. Remember, what you are trying to do is to just touch-over the tops of the relief.
    You could try dry-brushing with a conventional brush, but you run the risk of over-painting. That is
    why the toothpick is recommended.

    Then there is the decal method. Many kits provide decals of gauge faces on their decal sheets. The
    decal method works best when the relief is very poor or non-existent. If you have the resouces (ie:
    the proper printer, decal material and overcoats) then you could create your own decals. As has been
    suggested right here on the forum, there are many online sources for gauge face art. You would simply
    download them, resize and print...then cut them out and apply. I think that Detail Master also sells
    a gauge face decal set. If you decide to go with decals, you should have some kind of decal setting
    solution handy (like Micro-Sol or SolveSet). This will make the decals hunker-down into the recesses
    and make the decal appear more realistic.

    I hope that this helps.

  12. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic Real Or Model #28 Finished!   

    It looks like both photos are pics of a real car but heavily retouched with
    an airbrush. The shading on the RS (quarter, door and bumper) stand out
    as does the LR (quarter and door) on the other shot. As a long shot I'd
    even go so far as to say that it could be an airbrushed drawing taken from
    a real cars portrait. But I would guess not a model. Or, at least, not before
    it was introduced to PhotoShop.

  13. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic Photo Posting Help, One Last Time   

    First, the photos must reside in the directory/folder that you are attempting to upload
    from. In other words, if you are in PhotoBucket and you choose 'browse' (to select the
    photo(s) that you wish to upload), you will have to navigate to where the files (photos)
    are. If they are, indeed, in your My Pictures folder, then you should see them there to
    select...if not, then they simply are not there. It is a good idea to make 'sub-folders'
    within your My Pictures folder that will contain the photos that you collect. That way you can
    always navigate to the folder that contains photos that pertain to a certain subject. An
    example of this would be:

    67 VETTE---
    56 FORD---
    2007 XMAS PARTY

    You get the idea. You could structure this folder setup anyway that you wish but you must
    PUT the photos in THAT directory. That is to say that you must move them from the camera
    to the folders in which they will reside. You could simply put all of your photos in the My Pictures
    folder but if you are like me, and have literally thousands of photos, you would need some
    kind of system for keeping track of them.

    Another point to consider is format. Most cameras today take pictures in JPG format...but some
    still use TIF or BMP. The more expensive ones even take them in JPG and RAW. The point
    here is that when you upload the photos to PhotoBucket, they should all be in JPG format AND
    sized for internet consumption. I make a habit of sizing (resizing, that is) most all of my
    PhotoBucket uploads to no more than 180 DPI (Dots Per Inch). I know that this is probably
    more info than you need...but it is helpful to consider internet etiquette.

    Just make sure that the photos that you want to upload to PhotoBucket are in a place/folder where
    YOU KNOW that they reside. Then just use PhotoBucket's browse function to navigate to where
    the pictures are...select them, then upload.

    Hope that this helps... Steve
  14. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic What do you drive?   

    Everyday driver is a 2005 PT Cruiser…but even on nice winter days I interchangeably

    1960 Chrysler New Yorker 2 door HT with 56,000 original miles (found at Jefferson, WI
    in 2001).

    1955 Dodge Custom Royal 4 door sedan with 63,000 original miles (presently has
    86,000) acquired locally in 1982.

    1955 Packard Clipper Custom 4 door sedan with 58,000 original miles acquired locally
    in 1987.

    1948 Packard Custom Eight 4 door sedan with 74,000 original miles acquired locally
    in 2000.

    1956 Chrysler New Yorker St. Regis 2 door HT with 49,000 original miles acquired
    locally in 2000

  15. forwardlook60 added a post in a topic Whatever Will Bee Will Bee   

    Thanks guys,

    Don, who markets that hood conversion kit? Years ago it was MPB Products but I don't
    think that they're in business anymore. I think that it was around 1995 or 1996...I got
    one set for a project that I was working on at the time (an RT). I haven't been able to
    locate another set since. I looked on eBay, as you suggested but, no joy. Right now I
    am attempting to basically scratchbuild the hood by cutting out the center-rear section
    of the Monogram's hood and grafting in the center-rear section of the AMT 70 Super Bee's.
    I wish that I did have one of those conversion hoods...it would make this project a heck
    of alot easier.If you know where I might procure one (or two), you might want to post

    UPDATE: The interior is nearly finished...just the dash to complete. I will most likely
    sand/polish out the body in the next couple of days and prep it for a clear-coat. When
    that is done, I can post some additional photos.

    The "MrObsessive" bug has really bitten me...so much so that now I'm thinking of doing
    another '69...only this time an RT using an entirely different floor pan and chassis and
    adding everything....including the famous MrObsessive working suspension (no easy task
    with the torsion bars). I tried that once before building a 1955 Packard, which has the
    transverse torsion bars...became so complex to make it work that I gave up on it and it
    has sat in the box on the shelf ever since. I always figured that I would try to tackle it
    again someday.

    Thanks, Steve