Yes, simply find a correctly sized spring, stretch it out just a tad, get some heat-shrink tubing
from Radio Shack and shrink it over the spring....prime and paint the desired color then detail
Thanks to one and all for the great comments. Although this thread was posted
nearly two years ago, the renewed welcome is appreciated.
For those seriously interested in constructing such a model, I still have my
initial drawings and a small number of the self-made decals.
This model is a replica of the trailer my parents hauled behind our 1957
Plymouth Suburban for our trip west in 1957. I am working on completing
a replica of that car based on the Modelhaus kit. So perhaps in the near
future, pictures of this trailer, being pulled by that car, may appear here.
Again, thanks to all.....and to all a very happy Thanksgiving.
I too am a big fan of PayPal and I won't buy from a seller who does not
accept it. In addition to Bill's reference as to explaining the upset many
have with this latest development, there is still another reason (and bear
in mind, I don't know whether this condition will persist into the new
changes) and that is: PayPal accounts are FREE if you have a base account.
If you have a 'commercial account', PayPal will charge a fee for every
transaction. The difference between the base account and a commercial
account is primarily the ability to receive payments made with a credit
card. In other words, if a buyer elects to pay you with a credit card and
you have a base account with PayPal, you cannot receive the funds without
upgrading to a commercial account. I think that this has been one of the
main gripes that sellers have with the system. But just like any business
these days (as both Harry and CAL pointed out) if you want to expand your
business, taking credit cards is a must. The by-product of this is, of course,
fees. When restaurants (or any business for that matter) take credit cards,
they are charged a fee...why should eBay sellers be any different?
The fact is, someday checks, M.O.s and paper money will become
obsolete. The payment for all goods by electronic transfer just makes
good sense.....and costs substantially less.
As a long-time eBay seller, I love PayPal. It makes bookkeeping easier,
more precise and is more convenient...and for all the reasons Harry
alluded to. For those who espouse the idea that they don't want PayPal
(..or any other online payment service) getting into their business, you
might as well get used to it. And remember too, eBay's claim that most
sellers do prefer PayPal is correct.
With regard to your question(s) regarding the painting of undercarraiges,
each manufacturer did it differently. I can help you out with question
one to a certain degree (I am not that familiar with Ford and GM) and I'm
sure that some of the other guys can pick up where I've left off.
I can speak to the question as it applies to Chrysler products. However,
if you have seen Fords or GMs with the same appearance, it probably is
as a result of the same process explained below. After 1960
all Chrysler Corporation cars (with the exception of Imperial) were
manufactured in a monocoque (single shell) fashion. Chrysler called it
Unibody construction. This means that the body, floorpan and chassis are
all one piece and as a result were painted as one piece. The body, after
being dipped in rust inhibitors, was painted with grey primer...then when
the sides were painted, overspray of body color found it's way onto the
chassis. The reason why you may see cars with more paint and less
primer showing (...or sometimes the obverse) is simply because of
inconsistency during the painting process.
Now, the way you would achieve this effect in scale is like this:
(Assuming that you are painting a Unibody car)
Look carefully at several 1:1 pictures of the car you will
replicate to get the 'feel' for that look you are going for.
*** Do not apply the front/rear suspension parts/assembly(s) or
the exhaust/mufflers ***
*** Mask the gas tank ***
1. Prep your chassis for painting.
2. Primer the entire chassis with medium grey primer.
3. When the primer is dry, you will apply your body color.
Do this by spraying at a low angle to the sides of the chassis
and mist the color onto the chassis as you move from fron to back.
Be careful not to make the coat(s) heavy. The look that you
are trying to get is the appearance of a heavier saturation
of color on the sides and misting or fading to grey primer down
I would practice this technique on an older chassis first before you
attempt it on a real build. After a while you will have the 'touch'.
As I said, it would be my guess that other cars manufactured
Unibody fashion would also have been painted simularly.
You are both right and wrong about the Turbine Car
program. Government tax levis along with liability issues
were the reason why 40 of the 50 cars were destroyed. Chrysler had been
experimenting with turbine powered vehicles since
1954 and the competition certainly had ample opportunity
to see what made these things tick. I am sure that during
the 1964-1965 test program, some GM or Ford â€˜spyâ€™ would have
been able to get a look at one of the test vehicles.
Actually Chryslerâ€™s intention was to have these cars evaluated
by ordinary people. The records show that virtually none
of the â€˜amateurâ€™ test drivers were big-wigs or â€˜insidersâ€™. My
folks were among the 203 people chosen to evaluate the
Turbine Car. We received the car in March of 1964 and
had it for 3 months (as did all of the testers) and drove it
about 5,000 miles. At the end of the testing period, my
parents completed the companyâ€™s questionnaire and were
interviewed twice by Chryslerâ€™s engineering and Turbine program
reps. The day that the car was returned (to my uncleâ€™s dealership)
it was immediately loaded on a truck and on itâ€™s way (presumably
to the next tester). One of the main problems facing the testers
was availability of fuel. Chrysler recommended JP4, Kerosene or
diesel fuel but NOT leaded gas. Back then you would have to
hunt for a source of fuel for the car...although my parents got
imaginative and ordered extra supplies of home heating oil and
threw in some Kerosene. But I understand it was an issue for
some of the drivers testing the car.
We took a trip to Florida with it (to visit my uncle there) during
spring vacation and it was one of the most exciting times of my life.
At any rate, 10 of the cars were spared destruction and 7 now
reside in museums and 2 owned by Chrysler (one being on display
at the WPC Museum and the other still being used for testing). One
is questionably in private hands (the question of ownership, I understand,
is one of title certification). I was able to ascertain that the Turbine Car
loaned to my parents was, in fact, one of the 40 vehicles destroyed in
Well here is yet another installment of the Bee's return to
the hive. The engine has been mounted and most all of the
engine bay details completed. On the exterior, all that remains
is to detail the side marker relectors and installation of the
door handles and antenna (will finish that when hood work
Here are some additional photos of the work to date.
Overview of the engine bay
A closer look..
A view with the air cleaner installed
The right front wheel/tire
As stated before, I've treated the interior to a headliner, sunvisors and dome light...
here are a couple of pics
And finally, here is a shot of the rear end detailed...
BILL: With regard to the Mulroney sticker and owner's manual, I drew both of them
in CorelDraw from scratch. Even the logos were created there. I researched all
of the price and code data and included them in a full-sized piece (which I will display
with the model). For the model's window sticker, I simply reduced it to fit the
left rear quarter window. So, with that template done and most all of the pricing
and code data collected, I can created a full-sized (and subsequently a miniature)
replica for any '69 or '70 MoPar. Kind of neat huh?
Bill, I quite agree. Along with yours, these are (especially that Camaro) the
most convincing replicas I've ever seen. Hawk, your work is exquisite!
A most hearty welcome to you. Like I do with each of Bill's builds, I'll be
looking forward to seeing all of your offerings. And also like Bill's, this is
kind of quality I aspire to emulate.
Back again with the 2nd installment of the update on the construction of
the '69 Hemi Super Bee.
Here is one more shot of the interior. It illustrates the installation of the
under-dash heater unit.
Jumping ahead. I filled the open area of the 'glass' insert and scribed headliner detail
into it (pictures of that later) and further, installed sunvisors. To give the model a bit
more realism, I built and installed a partially rolled-down right rear quarter window.
Here are some pictures of the installed 'glass/headliner' and interior.
I also made a Mulroney sticker and owner's manual (seen sitting on top of the dash).
Since I was unable to obtain a resin 'stock' hood, I was forced to scratch build one. It is actually
an amalgam of the kit hood and the hood from the '70 Dodge Super Bee. I found that the
scoops from the '71 Duster worked better so they were used here.
Here are some shots of the hood after color coat and on the car. I also scratch built the
underhood bracing for the same reason as on the 1:1 car (to protect the delicate construction).
...and one of the body Bare-Metal foiled and decaled:
Since the real Hemi's came with the RAM air induction system, I am constructing it. This is
easier said than done since the kit's hood/engine were not designed for it. It has required
kitbashing the plenums from both the '70 Super Bee and the JoHan '69 Road Runner. That
assembly is nearly finished. As of today, the engine has been mounted and most all of the
engine bay detailing completed.
I'll try to have some photos for a new update tomorrow or Thursday showing the car near
It's been a long while since my last update on this project. But I have made some
progress as will be illustrated in this update.
First, the engine. As I stated from the outset, I modified the Hemi from the R-M
'69 Charger for inclusion in this replica. The detail level of the engine and plans for
detailing the engine bay have required a good number of hours be spent on engine
construction. The engine is complete now but I did not take final pictures of it. However,
I did take some snaps of it just before I finished decaling, addition of a few details
and final touch-up.
Here is the engine looking down on the carb assembly
Here is a shot with the air cleaner installed
A shot from the rear
If you look carefully at the alternator you will be able to see the armature windings
through the blades. For this I scooped out each side of the alternator then built the
windings using filament wire. This was a tedious task. Here are some shots.
Here are some shots of the interior before mounting in the body. I elected to use the
dash from the '69 Charger kit as I felt that it looked more prototypically correct than
the Monogram dash. This too required alot of heavy modification. Alot of time and
attention was spent on hand painting and detailing the steering wheel and console to
actually give the appearance of real wood. Also, since this car is being built with a
TorqueFlite, the console had to be altered to reflect the correct bezel for an automatic.
1st. Juha Airio - Undoubtedly the finest modeler in the world. He has created some of the most beautiful
models ever and always with the highest degree of ingenuity, imagination, detail, creativity and accuracy. As
if his prototype models (which require the highest level of modeling skill) weren't enough, he has built many
gorgeous customs that demonstrate sensitivity and great aesthetic taste. The standard-bearer of the model
2nd. Uwe (Oldstyle) from Germany - Like Juha Airio his attention to even the smallest detail is unsurpassed.
3rd. Bill Geary - Again, his ingenuity and attention to detail can't be understated. His approach and dedication
to the hobby are to be both admired and emulated.
4th. Dean Milano - Some of the most outstanding paint jobs ever seen on scale models. Again, a fellow with
the ability to create something fantastic from seemingly nothing. Also, in addition to being a great builder, he
is one of the true ambassadors and perpetuators of our hobby...and a great guy.
5th. Bill Clouser - Not as much for model cars but he stood for what all of the above mentioned fellows do in
the model railroading hobby...as a matter of fact, set the standard for it...truly one of my all-time heros.
6th. Eric Bronsky - Like Bill Clouser, Bronsky is a leader, if not the vanguard, of model railroading and
There are several different ways to detail the gauges. One way is to use a toothpick. Prepare your
paint...dull the point of the toothpick ever-so-slightly (experiment a bit and test it on some scrap
pieces)...dip the toothpick in the paint and wick most of it off on a clean paper towel...then carefully
'brush' the toothpick accross the characters. It will require a steady hand and a magnifier would
help. This method is dependant on how good the character relief is. The better the relief, the easier
this method is.
Another way to do it is to flow paint into the gauge face then using a Q-Tip or clean rag (dipped in
thinner) to wipe the surface of the relief characters. Again, a steady hand is necessary.
In both of the above cases, I would suggest using either Tamiya or Model Master (Testors) Acryl
paint, as they are water soluable and if you mess up, it is a fairly easy task to simply clean it off
and start over. Remember, what you are trying to do is to just touch-over the tops of the relief.
You could try dry-brushing with a conventional brush, but you run the risk of over-painting. That is
why the toothpick is recommended.
Then there is the decal method. Many kits provide decals of gauge faces on their decal sheets. The
decal method works best when the relief is very poor or non-existent. If you have the resouces (ie:
the proper printer, decal material and overcoats) then you could create your own decals. As has been
suggested right here on the forum, there are many online sources for gauge face art. You would simply
download them, resize and print...then cut them out and apply. I think that Detail Master also sells
a gauge face decal set. If you decide to go with decals, you should have some kind of decal setting
solution handy (like Micro-Sol or SolveSet). This will make the decals hunker-down into the recesses
and make the decal appear more realistic.
It looks like both photos are pics of a real car but heavily retouched with
an airbrush. The shading on the RS (quarter, door and bumper) stand out
as does the LR (quarter and door) on the other shot. As a long shot I'd
even go so far as to say that it could be an airbrushed drawing taken from
a real cars portrait. But I would guess not a model. Or, at least, not before
it was introduced to PhotoShop.
First, the photos must reside in the directory/folder that you are attempting to upload
from. In other words, if you are in PhotoBucket and you choose 'browse' (to select the
photo(s) that you wish to upload), you will have to navigate to where the files (photos)
are. If they are, indeed, in your My Pictures folder, then you should see them there to
select...if not, then they simply are not there. It is a good idea to make 'sub-folders'
within your My Pictures folder that will contain the photos that you collect. That way you can
always navigate to the folder that contains photos that pertain to a certain subject. An
example of this would be:
2007 XMAS PARTY
You get the idea. You could structure this folder setup anyway that you wish but you must
PUT the photos in THAT directory. That is to say that you must move them from the camera
to the folders in which they will reside. You could simply put all of your photos in the My Pictures
folder but if you are like me, and have literally thousands of photos, you would need some
kind of system for keeping track of them.
Another point to consider is format. Most cameras today take pictures in JPG format...but some
still use TIF or BMP. The more expensive ones even take them in JPG and RAW. The point
here is that when you upload the photos to PhotoBucket, they should all be in JPG format AND
sized for internet consumption. I make a habit of sizing (resizing, that is) most all of my
PhotoBucket uploads to no more than 180 DPI (Dots Per Inch). I know that this is probably
more info than you need...but it is helpful to consider internet etiquette.
Just make sure that the photos that you want to upload to PhotoBucket are in a place/folder where
YOU KNOW that they reside. Then just use PhotoBucket's browse function to navigate to where
the pictures are...select them, then upload.
Don, who markets that hood conversion kit? Years ago it was MPB Products but I don't
think that they're in business anymore. I think that it was around 1995 or 1996...I got
one set for a project that I was working on at the time (an RT). I haven't been able to
locate another set since. I looked on eBay, as you suggested but, no joy. Right now I
am attempting to basically scratchbuild the hood by cutting out the center-rear section
of the Monogram's hood and grafting in the center-rear section of the AMT 70 Super Bee's.
I wish that I did have one of those conversion hoods...it would make this project a heck
of alot easier.If you know where I might procure one (or two), you might want to post
UPDATE: The interior is nearly finished...just the dash to complete. I will most likely
sand/polish out the body in the next couple of days and prep it for a clear-coat. When
that is done, I can post some additional photos.
The "MrObsessive" bug has really bitten me...so much so that now I'm thinking of doing
another '69...only this time an RT using an entirely different floor pan and chassis and
adding everything....including the famous MrObsessive working suspension (no easy task
with the torsion bars). I tried that once before building a 1955 Packard, which has the
transverse torsion bars...became so complex to make it work that I gave up on it and it
has sat in the box on the shelf ever since. I always figured that I would try to tackle it