That is coming together nicely. EJan make a comprehensive upgrade kit for this Daytona which includes P/E wire wheels with aluminium rims. I believe EJan is actually Model Factory Hiro by another name. http://www.club-barchetta.com/SHOP/E801.html A lot of these Fujimi EM kits are being reissued in new cartoon type boxes and don't carry the price tags demanded for the original EM boxed issue http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10304490
I can't really add anything to what Doug has just said. Most of the different airbrushes i have here have the needles marked in some way to identify which is which. I do have to look very closely at some of them with my reading glasses to see the markings though.
Making it safely around is a job well done. I subscribe to the YouTube channels that cover Touristenfahrten and see way to many being unsafe and ending up with damaged cars. I've read where you are liable for any damage you cause to the barriers plus the down time if the track has to closed for the repairs.
When I have run in to bleeding problems and plastics sensitive to solvents or where I have done bodywork I always use Barcoat Isolator or BIN Sealer. I use auto paints which have hot solvents so I need a reliable effective barrier. http://www.u-pol.co.uk/documents/datasheets/tds/BAR-TDS-EN.pdf http://www.zinsseruk.com/product/b-i-n/ I have found both to be equally effective with the BIN being white and the Barcoat beige in colour. Both of these are shellac based and I use methylated spirits to wash up my airbrush.
I soaked some Replicas & Miniatures resin in isopropyl alcohol some time back to strip the paint and the parts were like rubber when I removed them. Over a period of time though they did eventually re harden to their original state.
You have to admire their work ethic when they know they will be deluged with orders and yet will be retiring shortly. It would be so much easier for them to simply call it a day now and cruise in to a well deserved retirement.