Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Bernard Kron

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Bernard Kron

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Full Name
    Bernard Kron

Recent Profile Visitors

19,871 profile views
  1. Thanks so much David! Unfortunately (I guess...) the patina thing is more intuition than anything else. It's simply a matter of having the right "picture in your head" and intuiting the techniques you can use to get there, LOL! I swear I remove more weathering powder and polish more paint that I apply or sand to achieve it. It's really an exercise in knowing when to stop. Judging from your models I bet you wouldn't have a problem doing it since your cars always look "right" for what your aiming at. But if you lack the inclination to do it, then that, indeed, is a recipe for disaster. It's like me doing a showroom stock model. I wouldn't know where to begin - and yet I'm a huge fan of that discipline.
  2. Beautiful showroom stock motors, Steve. I'm a huge fan of that modeling discipline, something I fear I will never have the self control and skill to attempt. I build hot rod and drag racing subjects and I tend to use metalizer paints a lot. I frequently strip kit chrome and substitute metallic paints for what I hope is a more realistic effect. Here are a few examples. The Revell Slingster from a few years with an upgraded version of the kit hemi. The stock valve covers were foiled and the scoop is kit chrome from a Revell Pontiac V8 Parts Pack. But the rest is entirely various shades of Testors Metalizer paints except for the headers which are polished aluminum tubing. Another Chrysler Hemi, this time injected from a Willys Resto-Mod. Black block and all metalizer finishes excepting the aluminum injector stacks. A big block Chevy in a dirt track modified. I don’t have a closeup of the motor but I always liked this one because it looked realistic nestled in the chassis. Chevy orange block and metalizers throughout. This is an example of “full dress” V8 Ford Flathead from a Deuce roadster I recently finished. This is unusual for me because there’s a lot of kit chrome, although I also used various washes to highlight detail and knock back the shine a little. And lastly a fairly unusual combination, a Revell Parts Pack Pontiac V8 with a Revell Parts Pack Chevy Potvin blower setup adapted to it. This motor has never been installed in the car, a what-if salt flats version of the Club De Mer, but is displayed with it as a set. It’s another “showboat” full-dress motor so there’s some kit chrome but also a lot of metalizer work.
  3. Oops! I just checked my e-mails and it seems nothing went out to Firebird. I just sent him a new message. (I just checked - it really did go out this time!) Thanks for the replies.
  4. I never heard back from Firebird Designs... 😒
  5. Thank you Larry! I’ve had a request for some outdoor shots in natural light, so here they are.
  6. Thanks everyone. I'm really pleased you all dig it. This "new" '29 kit (it was, after all, introduced in 2015 but then "disappeared" for a while) is the ultimate Parts Kit, but built straight out of the box, IMHO, it needs some work. The individual sub-assemblies (the motor, suspensions, chassis, interior, body, etc.) are beautifully detailed and finely executed. And well chosen, too. The I-Beam front end is as nice as ever has been done in 1/25th scale, for example. And both the Small Block Chevy (now in the roadster) and the Nailhead Buick (swapped over to the '30 coupe in the re-issues) are among the best I've seen. But the stock OOB build stands too high off the ground, the slim little '29 body shell separated from the ground by a vast amount of air. It needs to Come Down!!! Now that I've done both versions, channeled and highboy, I must say that the Highboy on its '32 Ford chassis rails is much easier to get looking right. I'll probably have another swing at the channeled version to see if 3rd time's the charm. Perhaps I'm being a bit harsh, since if you look at all the builds of this kit on the MCM board there's no lack of impressively done out-of-box builds. Suffice it to say I'm so glad it's back and am certain it will become a mainstay of my hot rod inventory. And yes, your comments and interest are greatly appreciated!
  7. I just finished this Revell '29 Roadster. It's only my second one, this time on the Highboy Deuce rails. Once again I corrected the mile-high stance and replaced the modern rear supension with a '37 Ford tranverse leaf spring setup. The motor is a Revell '50 Oldsmobile Rocket V8. I still haven;t used the fine Nailhead Buick that comes in this kit! Go figure... More detail on the build can be found on the W.I.P. thread here: and Under Glass here:
  8. ’29 Ford Highboy Roadster With Original “As-Found” Patina A popular trend among today’s Traditional hot rod enthusiasts is to find a genuine 40’s or 50’s hot rod and restore it to a safe and roadworthy condition while leaving intact as much of the old oxidized paint, road wear and surface corrosion as safety and good sense will allow. This is quite different than the “rat rod” movement where additional rust, perforation and decrepitude is added to the car or in fact invented where none existed. Modeling in scale to create a believable “as-found” patina shares much with military modelers who use many of the same techniques to do this. In this case I stumbled on some cheap black spray paint at my local auto supply store (Brite Touch Gloss Black in the aerosol can). I’m a sucker for cheap paints and was hoping to find a bargain-basement high quality lacquer. Such was not the case, and the paint dried with a subtle but noticeable light orange peel. Sanding it smooth still left a slight dull surface variation. It failed as a proper color coat but formed the basis for a truly believable old, worn, paint job. I decided to build a model around this happy accident using the recent (and now just re-issued) Revell ’29 Ford Roadster kit as the basis. The style is that of a classic mid-50’s street rod. The kit was extensively modified to correct its sky-high stance and modern rear suspension. I also swapped out the very-nice, but far too deluxe, multi-carb Buick Nailhead for a stock appearing and mildly warmed over Oldsmobile Rocket V8. The details are listed below. Base kit: Revell ’29 Ford Roadster kit, highboy version. Stock body and interior. Suspension modifications: Kit front suspension lowered by shaving the front spring and reversing the front cross member. Kit coil-spring suspension removed rear crossmember and transverse leaf spring from Revellogram ’37 Ford truck installed. Kit Ford 9” rear axle retained with scratch built lever shocks and scratch built location arms. Motor and transmission: Stock Oldsmobile Rocket V8 from Revell 1950 stock 2-door coupe kit with high performance exhaust manifolds from the Custom variant of that kit. 4-barrel carb from Revell 1/25th scale Deuce kits. Resin Oldsmobile “batwing” oil-bath air cleaner courtesy of Action Modeler (eBay vendor: action-shopper). Wheels and tires: 15” Front wheels from AMT ’40 For with Modelhaus 120A tires. 16” Wheels and Lincoln rear tires courtesy of Ed Fluck at Drag City casting, mastered by Dennis Lacy. Miscellaneous modifications: Revellogram ’30 Ford steering wheel. ‘32 Ford grill from Revell 1/25th scale Deuce kits. Paint and finishing: Brite Touch gloss black lacquer over Brite Touch red oxide primer and Duplicolor gray primer sealer. Black lacquer wet sanded with 1000 grit, then 2000 grit, sandpapers. Then detailed with rust red and light gray weathering powders. Interior finished in Testors Acryl British Crimson and Light Tan brush paints. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  9. I decided to stick with the stock height it. It suits the simplicity of this build, I think. Now I have a pre-chopped windshield for a future project. This project is now complete except I forgot to install the door handles. I’ll do that before I do the formal “beauty shots”. The summary of some final details shown below isn’t as sharp and clear as I’d like because I improvised some bench shots without a tripod. My usual photo setup wasn’t available today. I’ll include some sharper detail pics tomorrow. In the meantime thanks to all who followed along. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  10. I'm finishing my second project based on the Roadster version of this kit and I thought I'd summarize my impressions. The new variations of the roadster and coupe, with the swapped engines and bonus Halibrand mags in the roadster won't have any impact on my assessment. I also have a '30 coupe which I'll do later this year, and based on my experience so far I suspect I'll handle it the same way. First off it should be obvious that these are Must-Have Parts Kits for any hot rod builder. Most of the stand-out parts are difficult to find in any other kit, let alone all in one box. Here are the highlights, IMHO. Excellent classic hot rod engines - Both the Small Block Chevy (originally in the Coupe but now in the Roadster) and the Nailhead Buick are extremely well detailed and can be used in any hot rod project as well as drag subjects, etc. The top side options of multi-carbs, injection (for the Buick) and GMC blower (SBC) will never be wasted and are top notch in execution. Best I-beam dropped front axle setup out there - Finely detailed axle with a generous drop and a strong well-engineered cast-in front spring that stands up well to cutting and shaving for dialing in the stance. The front shock mounts and tubular shocks are unparalleled in any other 1/24-1/25th kit. Somebody should re-pop them. Ditton the beautifully executed split wishbones. Nice, useful, well detailed Ford 9" with a well-executed pumpkin. Great multiple interior options, including 3 different tuck 'n' roll options between the roadster and coupe, as well as the "rat-rod" style buckets seats and bare interior in the coupe. Also really nice Bell steering wheel. Excellent multiple headlight options. Excellent wheel and tire options with steelies and Halibrands and superb blackwall big 'n' littles. Finely detailed and well proportioned, believable bodies, though really, from a parts kit perspective these and chassis options are the least important items in the box. My negatives for this kit are pretty much the same as everyone else, and after two projects I've got my modifications drill pretty much worked out. Things I (really) don't like include the mile-high stance, the modern coil spring rear suspension with the huge chromed traction rods which show down under the chassis (ugly!), and the stretched front half of the chassis (to accommodate the big Nailhead I assume) which screws up the proportions from a side view (this last gripe is only an issue if you swap in a smaller motor like a flathead V8). And I'm no fan of the raised real wheel well arches. But as I said my start-up drill for this kit is now dialed in and includes lowering the stance by dropping the front suspension (flip the front cross member and shave the spring) and replacing the entire rear suspension with a proper hot rod transverse leaf rear suspension (usually a '32 or later Ford cross member and spring). In my opinion the ultimate A-V8 can be built using the front suspension, interior, wheels and tires and windshield from this kit, the AMT '29 Roadster body and a set of Revell 1/25th Deuce rails. I'm delighted the Roadster is once again available and look forward to the upcoming re-release of the coupe.
  11. Thanks Elvin! I have the luxury of two windshields to work from. So what do you guys think? Chop or no chop? Thanx in advance for the input, B.
  12. Not a whole album, but side 2 of the Who's second album, A Quick One. Entitled A Quick One while He's Away. it was a rock opera in six songs, the best known being "Ivan the Engine Driver". That was in 1966 and S.F. Sorrow was in 1967. The Who's Tommy, which most closely resembles Sorrow, is from 1969, two years later. So, yes, it has a pretty strong claim to being the first no-holds-barred full concept LP. A Quick One wimps out by having an "A" side which is basically a compilation of singles and cover songs.
  13. I always was a huge fan of these guys. Dick Taylor formed the band along with May after Taylor left his position as bass player for the Rolling Stones. Combining Phil Mays distinctively exaggerated "bad voice" singing style with Taylor's raucous jangling post-Chuck Berry (and pre-Clapton et al sustain tone) lead guitar cemented their position as the reining the Bad Boys of seminal British Rock. While SF Sorrow is undoubtedly an important and Classic concept album the material on the Pretty's first 2 or 3 LPs which features Phil May's brilliant vocalizing, are my faves (Midnight to 6, naturally, but also Rosalyn, Don't Bring Me Down and of course their brilliant cover of Bo Diddley's Pretty Thing) for their raw energy and a style of anti-social edge that would soon disappear until it reappeared a decade later with punk. There was never anything pretty about the Pretty Things but that's what made them so great. The cover of their first LP (a parody of a Rembrandt painting, a joke almost nobody got). Phil May second left next to Dick Taylor with the beatnik beard. Modern-retro video but with the original single audio of Rosalyn - Phil May at the top of his game! RIP Phil...
  14. Thanks to you all! This will be an extremely brief update, just about the grill placement and windshield selection. Sometimes the simplest solution is the most appropriate. After spending time at the bench fiddling with various combinations of AMT and Revellogram ’29 Ford windshields and dashboard combinations, chopped and unchopped, the one solution I hadn’t tried was the windshield in the Revell roadster kit just as it came in the box. It’s a really nice part, a finely detailed and thin piece of kit chrome with a nice rearward angle cast into it. Finally I succumbed to the obvious and tried it unmodified with only a coating of Vallejo black wash to knock back the kit-chrome look. Bingo! The simple, classic hot rod look that was the whole point of this project. The grill shell mounting is exact;y as it will be in the completed model. Interestingly, adding just an .020 strip of styrene to the bottom of the cut down Revell Deuce radiator I’m using is what I needed to dial it in. I’m always surprised at the differences these seemingly tiny adjustments can make when working in scale. There are no major items left on my list except the biggy: whether to finish this up as the ultra-simple “as-found” period hot rod pretty much as you see it here, or to add some detail “The Race of Gentlemen” styled touches such as period decals and racing numbers. The process of finally assembly will no doubt decide it for me. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  • Create New...