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Bernard Kron

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About Bernard Kron

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    Seattle, WA
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    Bernard Kron

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  1. I just completed building this kit and Kurt commented on my Under Glass thread. Here's a link to it: And here's the w.i.p. thread:
  2. Ferrari 250LM (more photos below) This is the Academy kit of the 1964 Ferrari 250LM, a GT coupe intended to succeed the 250 GTO as an FIA homologated Grand Touring car to be sold both as a racing car and a street run machine. It was planned as Ferrari’s first rear-engine GT. First introduced in the Fall of 1963, Ferrari had assumed that the car could be approved (homologated) as a streetable Gran Turismo machine in much the same way as prior dual purpose GT cars like the 250GT SWB and the 250 GTO. This is to say that the FIA would allow Ferrari to begin taking orders and producing the cars against the orders written The assumption was that in this manner eventually the required number of cars would be built and offered for sale. But the FIA became far more strict about what they intended by a production GT and increased the number of examples needed to 100 from 50, and expected production to be started in advance of actual sale of cars to customers, and to be continuous thereafter until all 100 were produced. As a result only 32 250LMs were ever produced and the car was never homologated as a production GT. Despite this the car was quite successful as a prototype race car and indeed was the last Ferrari to win the 24 hours overall which it did in 1965 driven by Masten Gregory and Jochen Rindt. 2 other 250LMs finished in the top 10 that year, placing 2nd and 6th. My model is not a replica of any single car but has elements of typical privateer 250LMs of the era. It’s finished in Tamiya TS-8 with Duplicolor Universal White racing stripes. The kit is a curbside so there’s no motor or chassis, but it’s otherwise quite accurate and detailed. I made one major change by swapping out the stock wire wheels for Campagnolo “Cromodora” magnesium wheels which were introduced at about the same time as the 250LM. Several privately entered 250LMs raced with the Campagnolos, finding that their lower unsprung weight and greater rigidity improved handling. The wheels and tires I used are resin aftermarket pieces made by Curbside MasterCasterS and are sold on eBay here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/jwhi7752/m.html?item=143706523517&hash=item217593877d%3Ag%3Ao64AAOSw9SVeIv7A&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 . Quality and delivery time were both excellent and they are highly recommended. The Dunlop Racing tire marking are from IndyCals. The only other modifications included lowering the stance 2 scale inches and cutting out the door panels, as was done on the 1:1, and making door pull cables. The seat belts are decals from IndyCals. The white roundels backing the numbers are from Gofer Decals as are the large white Dunlop logos. All the rest of the decals, the license plate, numbers and Magnetti Marelli and Shell logos, are all home made. Thanx for lookin’ B.
  3. Your welcome! Which gauge panel is that? If it's the 8-guage panel from Replicas and Miniatures Norm still has them but without the formerly included replacement resin dashboard (that's why I made my own) and also, very importantly, without the gauge art. I made my own gauge art, so if you go that route drop me a pm and I'll mail you a copy.
  4. I've done several paint jobs going for this effect. Here is the most recent one, which I completed about a year ago. The base paint is red oxide primer followed by grey primer and finally color coats of cheap gloss black lacquer paint (Brite Touch Gloss Black I got at O-Reilly's auto parts). The cheap paint has a very light orange peel to it that provides some "tooth" for the subsequent weathering powders. The grey primer layer allows for of the faded paint effect, and the red oxide represents lightly rusted edges. Once the paint was applied and allowed to cure I wet sanded it with 1000 grit which smoothed it out and then selectively burned through to the grey or red oxide where it would have worn or faded on a real 1:1. Finally I lightly applied light grey (for dirt and dust) or rust colored weathering powders. Nost of the weathering powders were wiped away leaving only light residues. I suspect I could have done pretty much the same thing without them. The trick is to be restrained about the effect throughout the process. That way the paint looks relatively intact and the wear, dirt and light surface rust more closely approximate an o;d. 60 year old paint job. The first 3 photos are outdoor daylight shots so they are quite objective in representing the final effect. The 4th one is a TRJ style "studio" shot. Below is an earlier "rat rod" project with more aggressive rusting, but using the same technique. The color coat was Krylon enamel finished with Testors matte clear applied after the wet sanding but before the weathering powders. The matte clear was lightly polished with a paper towel to take some of the dull off.
  5. Nice 1:1. The Revell roadster kit should be an ideal way to replicate it. An easy way to modify the dash is to cut the entire dash face out of the Revell roadster, glue in a plain blank sheet of styrene and then modify it to what you want. This is the method I've used countless times and it's simple and effective. The Revell roadster kits dash has a groove that is a ready guide for the back of a #11 blade to cut the face out. Here are some examples, all done using this method: Revell roadster kit instrument cluster cut out, glued in place and foiled. Photoetch gauge panel included with Model Car Garage '32 Ford p/e grill set: 8-guage p/e panel from Replicas and Miniatures Co. of Maryland:
  6. Thanks Randy and Ray! This project is completed except for final cleanup and detailing. The picture below is a composite of its current state. The trim rings around the headlights are incredibly fiddly and fragile photoetch pieces held in place with canopy cement. I have to clean up any residue on the fenders near them. After two or three hours of struggle getting them into place and secured, I really should step away from the model for a day or two before I do that. Then I can look for flaws and details that need attention with a clear mind… In general the body picked up some dirt and residue during final assembly. My next post will be as a completed model. Thanx to all who have followed along, B.
  7. A small update. This model requires a fair amount of detail work, especially with things like the lights and trim. I got the fine mesh detail painted and installed. The rear mesh and the mesh for the hood vents are painted body color. The grill is the plain stainless steel color of the 60 mesh I used. In picture below there’s a small Cavalino prancing horse metal decal installed, but it’s so small it barely can be seen and I’ll probably remove it. Most 250 LMs had plain grills anyway. The taillights have been painted with Molotow Chrome and transparent red. Molotow needs to dry for a good 24 hours in order to hold its shine and stand up to any handling so final clean up and assembly, which is all that’s left at this point, will have to wait until tomorrow. Thanks for lookin’, B.
  8. Thanks Dann. I agree, a lot of fun to put together. I'd like to do a Mk. 1 version with cycle fenders in the future.
  9. Thanks Gareth. While this kit is just short of full detail (no separate space frame) there's enough there to give an appreciation of how advanced it was for a 1957 design. The suspension, especially, might very well be from sports cars of 10 years later. Between their ultralight weight, near-center engine location, and superior road holding, I suspect they provide an almost modern driving experience, especially since the Series 2 was fitted with disc brakes.
  10. Hi Kerry, I want to fit this on the Revell '30 Ford Touring Street Rod. Since both the the Touring and the Woody are ex-Monogram I thought the Deuce grill might be compatible. I think I have a Deuce shell from the Revell '32 kits in my spares and I'll check to see if it fits. I might need the '30 Ford woody piece anyway if I don;t have a shell I can spare. Thanks for the information. If you have a gennie '30 Ford Deuce shell and hood I would be up for it. Bernard
  11. Wanted: '32 Ford Grill, radiator and hood from Revell 30 Ford Woody Street Rod kit. Will buy or trade.
  12. Thanks Dan! And likewise... Thanks Trevor. I think it's impossible for me to ever leave a kit totally stock, LOL!
  13. Thanks Trevor! Nice to see you here on MCM.
  14. Brilliant modeling with a top-notch result! Perhaps my favorite contemporary type of race car, precisely because they are, as you say "The sort of cars ... where some very smart people are building very fast cars within some smart rules without multimillions of backing", encouraging creativity and originality - truly pure-bred race cars. Your build captures their essence beautifully. Bravo!
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