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Bernard Kron

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About Bernard Kron

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Full Name
    Bernard Kron

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  1. Thanks Kris. Looking forward to it so that the wheels of industry can start turning again!
  2. I recently placed an order with M.A.D. I'm a longtime customer. I have often used Kris Morgan's fine parts. But this time for some reason the order hasn't arrived yet and it's starting to get very late. I sent them an inquiry about my order's status, using the web form on the M.A.D. website, and then a follow up. I haven't received an answer and want to contact them via regular e-mail. Can someone PM me an e-mail address to contact them? They have bo phone r e-mail address info on the website. Thanx! Bernard Kron
  3. Porsche 356A - Speedster Wars style

    Thanks everyone! I’ve gotten the main paint and graphics done. The basic color is Duplicolor Bright Red with a white racing stripe. The stripe was done by spraying a base coat of white lacquer and then masking out the stripe and applying the top coat of red. The white number roundels with the fine red stripe around the outer edge are leftovers from my ’57 Corvette project from last year, as are the red numbers which I had printed as extras at the time. The bodywork is essentially done, waiting only for a clear coat and final polish. Now on to the chassis, motor and rolling stock! I’m going to try to adapt the kit wheels to larger, more period correct tires, in the hopes of filling the enlarged wheel wells in a better proportioned, more pleasing way. We’ll see… Incidentally, a member on the SA board reports that the first release of this kit had the correct wheel well openings but on the next re-issue they were enlarged to clear slot car tires. There was even and article in Scale Auto Enthusiast at the time which had templates to restore the correct openings. I’m committed to making this version look as good as I can without the additional bodywork changes, but I look forward to a later, more correct project using the Fujimi 356A Speedster as the base. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  4. Dream Time: What cars would you like to see modeled?

    Dreamtime from the 50's sportscar scene: First off, a full detail kit of the Scarab Mk. 1, the chassis and motor on this one were created by a greatest hits of West Coast sports car and hot rod legends, and of course the body is drop dead gorgeous: Then a basic tool for any sportscar special, the Devin SS fiberglass body. I would settle for an aftermarket 1/24th body, but a factory chassis would nice... I understand this has been produced at various times, but an affordable full detail styrene 1/24 version would be a dream of mine, the Costin Maserati 450S coupe. I'd take either the competition version, or the street rdo, although the purposeful look of the racing car is probably my fave (bow about a 2 in 1?).
  5. I’ve started a second Porsche race car project while I wait to receive some small parts for my Porsche 904 build. This one is based on the venerable Revell Competition Porsche kit, which represents a classic SCCA style Porsche 356A Speedster as raced in the late 50’s and early 60’s. The cover art on the box promises much and captures the flavor of the era, but unfortunately this is an ancient kit with the old Revell multi part body, consisting of the top of the tub-shaped body, and the two side panels in the area between the wheel wells. The kit also has some pretty glaring inaccuracies, the most important of which is that the wheels openings are radiused into a round shape and are somewhat larger than the real car’s characteristic shape. Below is a composite picture showing the cover art, a picture I found on the net of a straight out-of-box build of the Revell kit, and a side view of the real 356A speedster. The oversized, rounded wheel wells should be obvious. The build-up picture also shows the rather horrible stance of the kit build and the fact that the wheels appear to protrude somewhat. I’m not too thrilled about the wheels and tires either. The 4th panel shows the bodywork I’ve done. Most of the Speedsters of the era tended to be street cars which were quite often driven to the races. Many of them kept the stock side trim. But just as many can be seen to have undergone some mild clean up include removing the trim and filling the seams around the front and rear pans. After reinforcing the body structure where the side panels joined the top of the body with styrene strip I looked at the result, and while it was quite clean, the side strip was all wrong (see the build up picture again). The side trim is too short on the Revell kit, and, with the oversized wheel wells, stops short of the wheel openings. It looks awkward so I decided to fill and smooth the body. Correcting the stance and doing something about the wheels and tires will be a challenge, If anyone knows a good source for period Porsche wheels in the right scale (1/24th), I’m open to suggestions. In the meantime I’ll keep plugging away. The paint scheme will be bright red with white stripes and roundels. Below is a composite picture of two period cars which are examples of the style I’m after. The upper car is an east coast as campaigned by Bruce Jennings, the legendary King Carrera. The lower two pictures are of the Ray Kimble “Kimble Special” which is a west coast car known mainly for all the movie work it got. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  6. Porsche 904 GTS Carrera

    As I add sports cars and road racing subjects to my modeling mix (having been almost exclusively an old skool hot rod modeler up to now) I’m going through my mental list of favorites and the Porsche 904 rises to the top of the list. Not only is it a beautiful car and a classic example of the early 60’s “streamline” style, but the model is available in a good quality kit for a relatively affordable price in the form of the classic Monogram kit, the basis for this project. In researching this project there were two versions which served as inspiration The red Scuderia Filipinetti car, in its restored form, is striking in its pure simplicity with its oversized white roundels contrasting against the striking paint. A modern competitor in the European vintage road racing and rally scene is Jean-Marc Bussolini, CEO of French agricultural coop and hypermarchè chain E.LeClerc who is somewhat of a Porsche specialist. His 904 is the centerpiece of his collection with its striking Bleu de France and silver livery. I’m going with the Bussolini color scheme combined with the pure simplicity of the Filipinetti car. Because the interior is finished in flat black in the 1:1 I shot the interior surfaces in black primer before going to the outer body surfaces in blue and masked the interior off. Unfortunately, until the exterior paint is finished including clear coats any body mockups will necessarily be a bit dodgy as the photo below will attest. The basic exterior scheme is finished in Tamiya TS-10 French Blue. The racing stripe is the classic French bleu, blanc, rouge in the form of a homemade decal printed to white decal paper. I’m congenitally unable to build a true replica model so I have invented a fictional 60’s privateer (in a tip of the hat to the Swiss Filipinetti outfit), the ostensibly Paris-based Equipe Lutèce (Lutèce is the ancient French version of the Roman name for Paris, Lutetia). The team badge is based on the Paris coat of arms and adorns the fenders and rear Kamm tail. I still have trade decals and roundels to apply and then it will all get clear coated and polished. Then on to chassis, interior and motor. Thanx for lookin’ B.
  7. Amt 36 Ford?

    I need to correct this. The '36 Ford Roadster has a longer door length which it shares with the 3-window coupe. When ERTL/AMT introduced the 5-window they moved the door line to represent the short door length of this model, which was used on the Club Cabriolet Convertible version (roll up windows and A-pillars extending from the doors) of the open air '36 Ford. So, if you want to build a Roadster version (snap in side curtains and separate windscreen) you need to either re-draw the 5-window door lines, or , more easily, start with the 3-window coupe version.
  8. I'm beginning a series of 50's and 60's sports car projects, cars like the various pre-911 air-cooled Porsches (356 A,B, &C; 904; 906;), E-type Jags, Ferraris, Maseratis, front-engine Lotii, etc. I have been slowly building up a stash of kits but one thing I'm ignorant about is sources of detail aftermarket parts like wire mesh headlight stone protectors, leather hold down straps, Lucas and Cibie fog lamps, Raydyot rear view mirrors, vintage correct seats, steering wheels and instruments, Boranni and Dunlop Wheels, correct period tires (i.e. Dunlop, Englebert, Firestone, Goodyear, etc.) I'm a long time hot rod and drag car kit basher and know my way around that world of aftermarket sources pretty well, but the vintage sporty-car arena is new tpo m,e, at least in scale (I do know the 1:1 world pretty well, I think). I do know that Replicas & Miniatures have offered various bits in this area, and Model Builders Warehouse does a good job of aggregating parts from sources like Historic Racing Miniatures and the German supplier Scale Production. Any other suggestions as to where I should be looking?
  9. Monogram Slingshot, Anyone?

    Great in-depth info on this famous historic machine. Seems to me you may know more about this kind of project than you're letting on Mr. Himmel, LOL!
  10. Spaz Stix Aerosol Paint

    Thanks to you all for your replies. But... I'm interested not so much in the chrome paint but in their line of color paints, both solids and candies. Any information about them would be greatly appreciated.
  11. I'm thinking about experimenting with alternatives to my usual Duplicolor/Tamiya/Testors array of body paints. The ground rules are that the paint needs to play nice with styrene and is available in aerosol since I have yet to be able to set up an airbrush paint station. First on my list is Spaz Stix since they seem to have a good reputation, their chrome system is very highly rated, and with recent increases in prices and on-line tax policies they are price competetitive when ordered from the manufacturer. Do any of you have experience with these paints? I notice that they are designed for application under clear Lexan R/C bodies , but that Spaz Stix represents that their system will work fine applied over plastic (styrene) bodies. They show them as enamel paints. So here are my questions: 1) What primers do they work well with? 2) What is drying time like, both to a handleable state, and full cure? 3) If you had a negative experience what was it that turned you off? 4) How compatible have you found them with other brands of paint (over or under)? One reason I'm interested in Spaz Stix is that they make a full range of true candies. The other is that they offer free shipping with a $75.00 order which, if they turned out to work well, would be practical if I also tried their Chrome system at the same time. Thanks for any advice or input. B.
  12. Junior Fueler--More Of These @!$#*&g Injectors?! 02/01/19

    They're round, the edges are crisp and the thickness scales. If you can get the flanges to behave, with a little minor cleanup you're there. As you no doubt know, this is a key detail. When I used the Speed City injectors, as nice as they were, besides the fact that they were for a big block (how could he overlook the small block?), the thickness of the stacks meant that my model would be permanently flawed. So, stick with it, it's worth it! Besides a finely crafted one-off like this, I think the only solution, in any quantity at all, will have to be 3D printing, IMHO. But if someone does it they will be a popular detail, since they are so charismatic In the meantime, build on!.
  13. 3D printing

    Below is a picture of the Maple Leaf Modelworks Stromberg 97s with SP tops which Chris offers. This is from a completed application I finished in December. They are as received from Shapeways and I paid the small premium for their highest resolution output medium. The have zero prep work except for a soaking in Bleche White. The main bodies were brush painted with Tamiya Titan Gold and the intake tops finished in Molotow Chrome applied with a 2 mm tip.
  14. 3D printing

    This, of course, is the difference between analog and digital. Anyone who ever thought about the issue when first traveling from geometry and trigonometry to calculus has encountered the issue. In the practical "real world" the whole issue is resolved, sometimes with a step "backwards", with a consensus decision about what is "good enough". I'm thinking, for example, of digital audio technology where, to my ears in any case, a consensus decision regarding high fidelity (an apt term) has resulted in an overall degradation in audio fidelity with more artifacts and equalization compromises as older analog technologies have been increasingly abandoned by artists and producers. It has fundamentally changed how recordings sound. Are things worse for it? I'm unsure, even if I think that they sound worse to my ears. That's because of the positive impact it's had on the affordability and accessibility of relatively noise-free, simple to create audio recordings where before only those with sophisticated, bulky and expensive equipment could create relatively high quality audio. Instead, the creative community, as well as the general listener community, have adjusted what they expect to hear. And the creative community, in particular, has benefited mightily from the change, since good audio is within reach of so many. But I agree that at this point this technology exists, even as it improves rapidly in its capabilities, more as a complement to older casting technologies, than it does as an end in itself. But for some, like Doug, Pico and Randy, it is already a very real means of creation and self expression.
  15. AMT '36 Ford louvered conversion package

    Yes they are. I believe Ed made some corrections to the masters for this run but he can comment better than I can. IN my case it's long enough ago that I can't recall what I did to correct for it, or indeed even if I did... Edit: I just checked my photos of the project and apparently I did correct for it at a later point...