Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Bernard Kron

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Bernard Kron

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
  • Scale I Build

Profile Information

  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Full Name
    Bernard Kron

Recent Profile Visitors

20,000 profile views
  1. Yes. I tested the tape (Tamiya) on part of the painted fender. Of course you're right in referring to the fact that the tape will be on there a while. But I've done this before with minimum problems as long as the paint is well cured and the model isn't subjected to undue heat.
  2. Thanks everyone! This is turning out to be a highly technical project. The idea of doing a polished aluminum body dictates a really strategic approach to masking. I didn’t mention it in my first post but this is actually my second try at painting the body. The first time around I wasn’t careful about handling the outer body surfaces. The Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome wasn’t fully cured and I landed up wearing it away. So the body went into the purple pond and this time I am planning carefully exactly when I pant each area of the body. The fenders and nose have been painted with Tamiya TS-43 Racing Green Spray. The body is “zoned” into 4 distinct areas with separate masking for each – the fiberglass parts (nose and fenders), the “upholstered” interior surfaces (painted with Testors Acryl Insignia Red), the unpolished bare aluminum surfaces (interior, engine compartment and underpan), and the polished aluminum surfaces. In the composite photo below you can see that I’ve painted the fenders. The second panel shows the fully masked main body. The interior surfaces are left in bare styrene, as is the underside. These will be sprayed in Testors Buffable Aluminum Plate. After several days of cure time I’ll buff the surfaces. The outer body surfaces (under the fenders up to the nose, between the fenders and the rear fuel tank area) will get shot with mirror chrome immediately before final assembly. If possible I’ll attach detail parts that lend themselves to masking before shooting the polished aluminum areas. My hope is to minimize handling and to be disciplined enough to only grip the model by the fenders, which will still be masked. The fenders will only be un-masked after final assembly. In the composite photo you’ll also see the “wobblies” finished in Tamiya TS-34 Camel Yellow. Highlighting them in paint revealed that I need to do more work truing up the rim edges. A nose stripe was also applied in Camel Yellow. After the paint cures I’ll polish out the edge between the two colors. While the paint hardens I’ll work on the motor, drive train and suspension which will be the subject of the next update. Thanx for lookin’. B.
  3. Thanks again guys. It did its job as a slump buster both because I managed to keep it simple and because it actually came out like I intended, LOL.
  4. Beautifully executed. The strategic weathering makes it look astonishingly real despite it's small scale.
  5. I like this. A straight-up no nonsense drag machine which takes full advantage of what I'm beginning to think is a vastly underrated kit from Revell. Very fine modeling, indeed.
  6. Thanks to you all. I'm pleased the period look came across. The "slightly weathered" look was the result of applying a small amount of black wash to the .hood louvers and side vents so they would show up. I suppose the wash reside complements the dull paint finish to give it the "daily driver" vibe. I'm glad you all dig it! Thanx!
  7. I will never forget seeing your work when you, Bob Downie and several other of your mates from the Grand Prix Modelers Association came and visited us at the NNL West in 2016. All the models you all presented were exceptional in both significance of subject matter and execution, Your models in particular, from the Miller Golden Submarine through your stunning streamline masterpieces (the Figoni et Falaschi Talbot Lago and the Saoutchik Bugatti), have stayed with me both because of their significance as automobiles and their uniqueness in 1/24th scale. At the time I believe you were just getting started in 3D modeling and most of your models had been created largely by sculpting their bodies or the molds to make them. Now 3D gives you the tools to model these important cars in full detail (ir you choose) with accurately rendered hollow bodies. But the skill to "see" the body in 3 dimensions has always been your gift, along with knowing whic the important cars to model. This lovely OSCA is no exception!
  8. This is the 1/24th scale Tamiya kit. Believe it or not, it's my first Tamiya and I'm enjoying the detail. crispness and precision. My plan is to build the club racer version with the ero screens. I'm in the "proof of concept" phase right now, where I tackle the changes and difficult bits to make sure the idea I have will work. I'm going to try to duplicate the polished aluminum that was a popular treatment among owners of these early lotuses. I'm using Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome shot to bare polished styrene. I did the bonnet, cowl and transmission and they came out really nicely so now it's time to tackle the masking job to accomodate the painted fenders and nose. Dave Bantoft (Dave B here on MCM) in Australia had let me now a while back that he had resin copies of the classic Lotus "Wobbly" cast aluminum wheels that Colin Chapman first introduced with the front engine Lotus 12 Formula 2 car in late 1956. "Wobblies" are another popular early-lotus appearance item, usually finished in their characteristic yellow color. Dave was kind enough to send me a set. Dave's resin castings included tires molded to the rims and solid backs. The wheels are just the right size but the tires were a little small. With the fact that they had full wheel backs with no room for the kit brakes it was simplest, if a little risky, to remove the tires and then sand the faces down to fit the kit tires. Here's a post-thrash bench photo of the result. I'm using AMT inner wheel rims. Once they're in the prerequisite yellow they should look mighty fine. You can also see the beginnings of masking job. This is a brave new world for this confirmed rod and custom modeler, although this particular car has much in common with a hot rod. Wish me luck! Thanx for lookin', B.
  9. 50’s style ’37 Ford Slantback Street Rod The ’37 Ford truly is the quintessential Billet Era street rod. Even today, if you go to local rod shows there’s a good chance you’ll see ’37 Ford Slantback Tudor that’s a throwback to the height of the Billet Rod craze of the 80’s and 90’s. Oh, the owner may have changed out the rolling to more traditional steelies and wide whites. If the owner is serious about “updating” it to today’s traditional style it might have been repainted in red or black. And maybe the small block mill has even been converted to triple Strombergs. But a peak at the interior will give away its roots because all that milled aluminum and tweed is just too costly to replace. In 1987 Monogram celebrated this period icon with its 1/4th scale ’37 Ford Sedan Street Rod kit. It’s Billet Era through and through with Boyd style billet wheels, Mustang IFS clip, Corvette IRS, and a 4-barrel SBC with an automatic tranny and billet accessories. It’s a well-engineered kit with finely detailed parts, and a nicely rendered body. It goes together well and rewards the builder with a classic 90’s street rod. I was looking through my stash for a slump buster and realized that I had avoided this kit for more than a decade. You see, Billet is just not my thing. Period correct 50’s is more what gloats my boat. Looking at it yet again, I realized that with just some detail changes it could be made to represent the typical mild street hot rod that used to grace the Little Pages back in the day. It’s a solid kit that would provide just the sort of simple project I was looking for if I stuck closely to the concept of back-dating it. So what you see here is a pretty simple project. The suspension and rolling stock were lifted directly from a 10 year old stillborn AMT/Revell ’40 Ford Tudor hybrid I never finished. The front and rear axles and rear suspension have been swapped out for bits from a Revell ’40 Ford Coupe street rod, the wide white tires are Modelhaus 120A’s mounted on AMT steelies and covered with Moon Discs from Parts by Parks. The only non-kit parts are the ,’58 ‘Vette style dual 4-barrel intake on the kit small block. They’re from a Revell Chevy 283 Parts Pak, and despite the scale mismatch they fit perfectly. Oh yeah, and the taillights are AMT ’36 Ford bits. Otherwise it’s straight out of the box. I ditched the kit headrests on the seats, deleted the stereo speakers on the package shelf and just made sure the colors were right for the 50’s machine I was modeling. The paint is Tamiya AS-5 Light Blue Luftwaffe, a matte military color that is meant to represent the tinted primer paint jobs that graced many a budget-conscious street machine in the 50’s I neglected to photograph the assembled interior, at least partially because of the way it goes together in this kit, so I’ve include a summary picture of the motor and the interior parts along with a side view showing the slightly raked stance that the deep-drop Revell beam axle gives the car. I added a ’40 Ford steering wheel and column during final assembly. The project had the desired effect. A simple build with a minimum of fabrication and parts swapping that takes advantage of a well-conceived classic kit, even if it isn’t one that would normally appeal to me. Thanks for lookin’, B.
  10. Thanks guys! This the final update. The project is essentially done although I still have to glue the chassis to the body. Below is a final summary showing the stance, the Moon discs from Parts By Parks, and all the detail that was added, either by foiling from the kit parts. The engine bay is complete and trimmed in white to contrast with the exterior paint. The tail lights are from an AMT ’36 Ford kit. Pretty much your classic late 50’s hop-up from just after the Chevy small block swept the Ford flathead from the scene. I’ll take final “beauty shots” and post the complete model tomorrow. Thanx to all who followed along, B.
  11. Thanks everyone. I'm glad you all are enjoying this. This is really a minor update since the basic de-Billet-ing of the chassis was done on my previous post. This is the assembly of the motor and chassis. The motor is the kit Small Block Chevy with a simple back-dating of the carburetion to the Corvette 283 dual 4-barrel, a dealership parts counter hop up popular in the early years of the SBC. Manifold, carbs and air cleaners are all from a Revell Parts Pack 283. The pre-wired distributor is from Morgan Automotive Detail. The kit exhaust system was re-routed slightly to fit the reworked rear suspension. The rear suspension locating arms are from the Revell ’40 Ford street rod kit that contributed the rear suspension and axle. I’m actually further along than the picture below would indicate. I’m ready for final assembly with the window and hood side trim foiled, the interior done, etc. I’ve always liked how these pre-Revell Monogram kits are designed. They’re engineered for straightforward no-dramas assembly with lots of nice detail. This one is no exception. My next update will be final one before I post the completed project. Thanks for lookin’, B.
  12. Thanks Elvin. Glad you dig it. There's nothing more classic than a '29 A-Roadster on Deuce rails!
  13. Thanks Randy. In my experience the channeled frame is the more difficult of the two to get dialed in to a decent stance. I swear it sits even higher than the Deuce railed highboy piece. At the very least it's the same height but with the narrower A-bone rails it only emphasizes the mile-high stance even more. When I did the channeled version I landed up increasing the drop on the rear "z" as well as doing the both the front and rear end mods you see on this one.
  14. Thanks Gary and Mark! I'm glad you both like it. I must admit it's one of the more personally satisfying of my completions of late.
  • Create New...