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Bernard Kron

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About Bernard Kron

  • Rank
    MCM Ohana

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  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25th

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  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Full Name
    Bernard Kron

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19,258 profile views
  1. '48 Ford Coupe

    Thanx you all. Glad you're diggin' it! The motor, chassis and interior are now completed. The Revell Parts Pak Pontiac 421 is finished in a light blue similar to the factory block paint color and suitably weathered to go with the model theme. The Part Pak Tri-Power carb setup doesn’t include an air cleaner for some reason so I used a Tri-Power air cleaner from B-N-L Resins, finished with Molotow chrome and again weathered to match the rest of the car. The headers are re-pops of the Olds capped straight pipes found in the original issue AMT ’29-‘40 Ford Tudor kit. They’re by Ed Fluck at Drag City castings and their flawless finish made chroming them with Molotow easy. Again they have been weathered to suit. The interior is the tuck and roll customized set from the Revell chopped ’48 coupe. It’s finished to complement the body paint and dull-coted. The chrome panel on the dashboard has been weathered. The chassis has the suspension lowered about 3 ½ scale inches all around, at the front by raising the axle spindles, and at the rear by lengthening the spring shackles. The wheels, front and rear, are steelies from the AMT ’49 Ford coupe kit, the rears being the deep-dish reverse pieces to mount a set of whitewall cheater slicks original gotten from the old Polar Lights Carl Casper Undertaker kit. The front pin-walls are from Modelhaus. The difference in tire diameters, front and rear, account for the slight nose down “rubber rake”. Next up is the final trim, bumpers, lights and finish details. I’ll likely have this project wrapped up in the next week or so. Below are some summary photos of the work done since my last update. Thanx for lookin’ B.
  2. Kurtis Midget

    Great build. I especially like the graphics. Excellent color chooices and the technique of using a red and yellow fine check pattern to simulate gold works very well indeed.
  3. '48 Ford Coupe

    Last year I picked up a Revell '48 Ford Police Car coupe on sale for 10 bucks. I bought it strictly as a parts kit, for the flathead V8, the wheels and tires, and the stock rear axle. I already had the original issue of the convertible and the chopped custom coupe. My longer term plan is to graft the cowl, door tops and rear deck of the convertible to the chopped coupe main body and build a high-style early 50's full custom. But for now I was looking for simple project I could complete during the month of July before I went away on vacation, and away from my workbench, in August. I decided to do a weathered stock height coupe using the the parts I wasn't saving for other projects. The idea I have is to do an early 60’s street rod in a contemporary “as-found” condition. Restored hot rods with their original unmolested patina are quite the style right now so I decided to do one with a faded paint job, but not a rust bucket. This would be a nice street machine that’s been stored in a garage for the past 40 years or so, so that the paint oxidized but, other than some dirt and minor surface corrosion, it’s quite sound. I wanted to achieve a believable, realistic patina without a lot of heavy handed rust. The result is shown in the photo below. Capturing it photographically was really quite difficult, but I think the pictures will give you an idea. The original color would have been a deep candy or metallic red-violet. Over the years the paint had worn through and faded in various areas, sometimes down to the red primer and even to the metal in spots. There’s also some accumulated dirt showing. I started with a base coat of dark grey primer. The next coat was a color coat of silver metallic to represent the bare metal layer. This was followed by a layer of red oxide primer and then a layer of Dark Toreador Red Metallic which would represent the original color in its current as-found condition. All the paints used were Duplicolor rattle cans. By lightly and carefully wet sanding with 400 grit sandpaper I was able to reveal the red primer and bare metal layers in the appropriate places. This was followed by a very light application of Kosutte Gin San metalizing powder. This gave the paint surfaces a faded, oxidized look and added some sheen to the bare metal spots. I then sparingly applied some black acrylic wash and wiped most of it away by lightly brushing it with tissue paper. This added dirt and grime. The louvered hood is from the chopped coupe kit, a part I won’t be using in the Carson topped kustom I’ll be building. It’s just what’s needed for this old street rod. The chopped coupe kit will also provide the tuck and roll interior. The car will be lowered all around. I dropped the stock height front axle by raising the spindles. The motor will be a Revell Parts Pak Pontiac 421. Most likely with the Tri-Power carburetor setup. With the extra power I’ll be using a nicely detailed resin Pontiac Catalina rear axle I got from Ed Fluck at Drag City Casting. The stance of the car will determine wheel and tire choice and whether it leans to Show or Performance. The chassis will be weathered to go with the body patina. This shouldn’t be a very complex project now that the paint is done. I should be able to update with chassis and motor pics next week. Thanx, for lookin’ B.
  4. '48 Ford Coupe

    I've been having bizarre posting problems with this thread. It wouldn't accept my original text but has allowed the post as a reply. Very weird... Anyway see the next post of the start of this w.i.p. Thanx, B.
  5. I've had this problem for a couple of days now. I get a "404 Error Sorry. We can't seem to find the page you're looking for." I've tried logging off, clearing internet cache, restarting computer, etc. etc. Anyone else getting this.? Any suggestions on a fix. I've contacted the admins but haven't heard back yet. P.S. This post will also function as a test to see if the problem is specific to On The Workbench.
  6. Most beautiful cars of all time

    Before wings 'n' things - Race cars done right Part II Frank Costin, the master of streamline Lotus Eleven with full Le Mans fairing: [] The Lister Costin:
  7. Most beautiful cars of all time

    Beautiful minimalism (before wings 'n' things) - Jim Clark full chat in the Lotus 25. Hard to beat a race car done right...
  8. Junior Fueler--More Of These (Darn) Injectors?! 02/01/19

    A knockout. Great to see you "doin' what you do so well". Now I have a standard to build my next Junior to, except mine will have to be relatively metal-free, LOL! BTW, since this thread took up from a previous start, I meant to ask you about the chassis. The roll cage area, now that it has its padding, looks a lot like it might have had a kit basis. Is the whole chassis made from styrene stock?
  9. Porsche 904 GTS Carrera “Ecurie Lutéce”

    Once again, thank you all so much. Among you are some of my favorite modelers. Again, much appreciated!
  10. 1932 Ford Tom Gloy Lo-Boy Roadster

    Here's the Brizio build page including final photos which should give you all the detail you could ever want. https://www.roybriziostreetrods.com/progress/gloy_2/index.htm This is perhaps the most successful blending of contemporary automotive sophistication and authentic traditional hot rod aesthetic ever achieved in a single Deuce. From the torsion bar front suspension used to ensure practical ground clearance in such an ultra-low car, to the seats inset into the floor pan to create a practical and comfortable position for both driver and passenger (and, extraordinarily, permitting an up-top!!!!), I can't recall anything to equal it.
  11. 1932 Ford Tom Gloy Lo-Boy Roadster

    Perhaps my all-time favorite Deuce, extraordinary in its svelte proportions and low stance. The perfect blend of Gloy's sports car sensibilities and the Brizio shop's formula for hot rod elegance. This was an ambitious project on your part and it's come out very nicely indeed!
  12. Porsche 904 GTS Carrera “Ecurie Lutéce”

    Thank you everyone. Your comments are much appreciated. In retrospect this was quite a challenging build, even though it was pretty much Out-Of-The-Box. This isn't a reflection of the original kit, which is extremely detailed and quite well engineered. It has more to do with the fact that this style of build is not what I usually do (I'm a confirmed kit-basher, working mainly in hot rods, kustoms and staightliners). But I intend to do more projects in this vein and I suspect I'll become more accustomed to the discipline it demands. Again, thank you all!
  13. Porsche 904 GTS Carrera

    Thank you so much, Matt! The project is now completed and can be seen Under Glass here:
  14. Porsche 904 GTS Carrera This project was based on the old Aurora 1/25th scale Porsche 904 kit first issued in 1965, re-released in 1991 by Monogram and once again by Revell of Germany in 2003. It has a reputation for being “fiddly”, and indeed it is. But that’s because it is extraordinarily finely detailed and because the Aurora designers engineered the kit to assemble much like the original 1:1 car would have. Unfortunately much of the beautifully rendered detail is eventually buried under subsequent parts and will never be seen once the model is completed. But what a delight to assemble! It’s a 3D journey through one of the most significant sports racing machines of the postwar era. It was a true road licensed GT with over 100 copies produced to comply with the FIA Gran Touring regulations of the era (the car was first introduced in 1964). Many were raced, but perhaps just as many were used on the open road. The version I modeled is based on a fictitious privateer team, “Ecurie Lutéce”, in the tradition of the great mid-century privateers like Ecurie Ecosse from Scotland and Scuderia Serenissima from Venice, Italy. The decal scheme is based on the layout from the Serenissima 904 with the large rondels, but that car was, of course, Italian racing red. This car is French racing blue (Tamiya TS10). It is inspired by a 904 currently being run by the French business man and collector Jean-Marc Bussolini. Like his car, I went with the upper body panels in blue with the lower bellypan molding in silver. “Lutéce” is the ancient Roman name for the city of Paris, home base for my make-believe privateer. This model is virtually 100% out of the box. The complex detail you see is entirely the handiwork of those inspired Aurora designers back in the day. Definitely not the kind of kit we would normally associate with that brand. The parts fit is very good. The only reason it’s “fiddly” is because of high parts count. But the result is well worth the work. The only additional parts I added were the wiring and plumbing, a couple of ignition coils from Morgan Auto Detail, a rudimentary throttle linkage and some seat belts. Otherwise, it’s all in the box! And with virtually no flash in the 1992 vintage Monogram edition I used. The decals are a mixture of homemade (the French racing stripe down the middle, the Ecurie Lutéce badge and the Dunlop logo), and numbers and rondels from Go-Fer Decals. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  15. Porsche 904 GTS Carrera

    The upper body assembly and fitting is completed. This is where the kit earns its reputation as fiddly, even more so than the suspension and motor assemblies. Even in the 1:1 904 panel gaps are not the tightest, but in 1/24th scale, on a model that’s been engineered to closely resemble the original car in terms of parts and subassemblies, getting the upper body to mate with decent alignment is a hit or miss proposition not so much because the parts are molded accurately to size – they are – but because of the way the original car was designed. The rear engine cover and the front body assembly simply rest on top of the bellypan with no interlocking surfaces. The front fenders and main body structure are molded in one piece and fitting the front compartment cover is very straightforward and the fit good. But the rear cover will always “float” and shift because it has nothing to definitively align it. There are two sets of hinges that allow the cover to pivot rearwards to reveal the motor, but they are loosely retained by pins and don’t want to hold in place, so the cover can shift regardless. When displaying or photographing the model it will always be necessary to set the cover in proper position. The hinges don’t let the engine show all that much so I’m leaving the hinges taped away inside the cover if I ever want to use them. The picture below shows the hinge pieces and the cover pivoted open on them. Also included are a side view and a view of the front compartment. I still need to make a proper prop for the front cover since none is included in the kit. Here are some views of the assembled body. The body work has picked up a good deal of dirt and polish residue during construction and will need a thorough cleaning. I also have to decide on how much of a race car look, as opposed to a show car, I want to give it, which will determine things like numbers and trade decals. So, along with mounting the wheels and minor details, there’s not much left to do Thanx, for lookin’, B.