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    • Dave Ambrose

      Board Status   07/20/2018

      Maintenance completed, but there is still more come.

Bernard Kron

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About Bernard Kron

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    Seattle, WA
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    Bernard Kron

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  1. Thanks Dave! Since you can't see the valve covers in the box art I'll go with the DeSoto covers (I missed noticing that) - you could argue that being from a long departed marque they have a greater cool factor... I have a set of the original decals being lent to me to scan, but if that doesn't work out I'll keep you in mind - Thanks! Depending on how much towards realism the project evolves to, I might cut my own exhaust stacks and use higher detailed 97's. And, in late breaking news, I have a set of the gennie first issue fenders coming my way so I'll be getting to the stance and proportion issues sooner than I thought! In the meantime I'll get started on the rolled pan and paint prep on the main body. Oh, I just won a Revell Beatnik Bandit, so I'll be be checking out the possible use of a 471 to capture some of the smallness of the box art blower...
  2. Thank you everyone! I seem to be moving through this project at a rapid pace. Things are falling into place much more quickly than I had anticipated. I’ve decided to use the Stacey David Rat Roaster version of the Revell Deuce. This is because, along with the stock style firewall which I’ll need, I can attend to some of the specialized modifications that Revell made to the original ’32 Ford Highboy release in order to make the contemporary Stacey David variant. This includes the notched frame rails to mount the exhaust system and the small extensions to the rear valance to surround the gas tank (see D below). The body channel will hide the frame notches, although I plan to fill them in nonetheless. As for the small rear extensions, they will form the ends of a subtle rolled pan I’ll fabricate. Along with the inset rear license plate mount of the Rat Roadster version, it should make for a tasteful period detail - one that’s not shown in the box art, LOL. After removing the gas tank I shortened the rear frame end and set the initial channel (see C below). It’s 6 scale inches, about the depth of the chassis rails at their deepest point. For the moment I haven’t Z’d the frame. I need to fill the real wheel wells, install the cycle fenders and rough in the front and rear suspension to see where I’m at with the stance. With the rolling stock already chosen, this will determine whether or not a Z is required at the rear. With the basic channel set, I was able to tackle the interior. The interior floor, rear and side panels and dashboard surround are all from the basic Revell 1/25th Deuce Roadster kits (pre-Rat Roaster). I removed ¼” from the rear and side panels to accommodate the channel job. The Revell Deuce Highboy dash panel, with its cassette player and air conditioning vents, will be removed and a new piece fabricated featuring a 7-gauge P/E piece courtesy of Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Maryland. I also plan to use a 50’s style steering wheel, perhaps the one from a Revell ’48 Ford. The seat is fabricated from a Revell ’32 Ford Tudor Sedan rear seat in an attempt to make a piece that resembles the simple vertical rolls of the seat in the AMT kit. It’s not a perfect match, but then nothing about this version will be. It’s roughed into place for the moment and still needs some fine tuning but it will do the job, I think (see A and B below). The decals will have to be re-scaled and distorted to fit the Revell parts and to reflect the box art. For this reason I’m borrowing a set of the original decals to scan and then redraw for this application. A couple of key visual elements of the box art are the boxy, close-coupled proportions and the shiny chrome plated domed wheel covers (the latter a styling element largely unique to early AMT Trophy Series models). Dennis Lacey suggested using the slightly taller wheels and tires from the Revell ’48 Ford kits in order to get closer to the proportions of the box art. As it turned out, although they are AMT parts, the chromed wheel covers from the AMT Doubled Dragster kit are a perfect fit to the Revell ’48 Ford wheels. So the rolling stock in now looked in (see center inset of the photo above). The cycle fenders, of course, are another important detail. I don’t have an original release (#132) Trophy Series AMT kit, or indeed, the 5-window version, both of which came with the cycle fenders shown in the box art. They are simple, smooth semi-circular examples proportioned to fit the kit AMT tires. The only AMT cycle fenders I do have are a set from the AMT 25T double kit. They are quite different from the Deuce fenders. The Deuce rear fenders, for example, are mounted with pegs that you glue to the body, within the wheel wells. The 25T rears use struts designed to mount to the brake backing plates, similar to the front fenders. The 25T fenders also have a molding down the middle of the fender tops, whereas the Deuce fenders are smooth. I can modify my 25T fenders to suit but I’d love to locate a set of the originals. Happily, either AMT cycle fenders will fit the rolling stock I’ve chosen. Below is a comparison of the two, the 25T style on the left on a ’34 Ford I built many years ago, and the genuine Deuce items as shown on Mr. Moto’s (Manuel J. Martinez_ excellent box art build I’m using as a reference. Some of the mechanical bits have also been chosen and set aside. The Hemi will come from the Revell Deuce 5-window coupe. I haven’t determined the supercharger setup as yet. The stock Chrysler valve covers will have to be AMT, I’m afraid, since I haven’t got a Revell piece to suit. The AMT ’53 Ford Pickup has a set that fit perfectly. I found a deep drop I-beam axle in my spare parts box that looks like it came from a Monogram ’40 Ford Pickup kit and will be ideal for this application. For the moment I’m intending to stick with the stock Revell rear suspension since it will be hidden under the channeled body. After all it’s all about the box art… Things are moving along quite nicely, much to my surprise. I still need to determine whether to modify the ‘25T cycle fenders or try to score the genuine AMT Deuce Roadster items. Only then can I determine the rear frame and suspension setup, so I have to decide very soon! Thanks for lookin’, B.
  3. AMT '32 Ford roadster - 1959 box art build

    I agree! I've started a box art build of this illustration, except I'm using a Revell 1/25th Deuce Roadster to do it.. While researching it I came upon your fine rendition of the original AMT version. I am using it as a reference to help me understand the differences I'll have to deal with.
  4. This project will be a box art build with a twist. I’ve always admired the blue channeled roadster on the top of the original-release AMT Trophy Series ’32 Ford Roadster kit. But I’ve always preferred the more accurate body and better chassis details of the Revell 1/25th Deuces. So it was natural for me to imagine someday building the AMT box art using the Revell roadster kit as my basis. Now I’m going for it. One of fascinating things about classic box art that makes it so effective is the liberties the artists took with their illustrations. These are truly idealized, impressionistic renderings, rather than strict photorealistic depictions of the completed model. So in this example the little Deuce roadster looks remarkably close-coupled with a tough, tight stance. Some details are missing entirely, such as the headlight mounts. The GMC 671 blower and the carbs are absurdly undersized. The front end has a deep drop front axle which is missing entirely from the kit. And yet the overall look is totally “right” to my eyes. It begs to be modeled in a more accurately detailed version taking advantage of the modern Revell kits, while still, somehow, retaining the cool factor of the artist’s vision in the box art. That’s my goal. Below is a call-out of some of the details I’ll be watching out for as I build it. For those who might be interested, there was an excellent box art build of the AMT kit posted here on the MVM board by Mr. Moto last year (see [a href="http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/123803-amt-32-ford-roadster-1959-box-art-build/"]AMT Trophy Series Deuce Roadster Box Art Build[/a] ). I’ll be using that build as a guide as to what can or can’t be done while trying to use zero AMT parts and sticking with relatively accurate modern kit parts for the various elements. I think this should be great fun. Thanx for lookin', B.
  5. I'm not a big muscle car fan like so many American auto enthusiasts are, but muscle cars dominate virtually all aspects of American car culture so I think that the CarTech editors got it right to target their second book to this segment - and for sure to keep it far, far away from the hobbies and crafts section! Frankly I'm a bit surprised that the show car kit book did well enough to encourage them to go for a second book. Perhaps there, too, they targeted the Transportation category by packaging it as a hot rod and customs book. In any case I find it worth noting that you dedicated so many early chapters to early model car history before getting to the meat of your subject. That alone will ensure I get a copy. I only wish that your Golden Age project had found a publisher since I can think of few other authors better equipped in both historical knowledge and editorial and writing skills to tackle the task.
  6. Fiat Fuel Competition Coupe - W.I.P. - Update 08-30

    Thanks Bob! The basic paint is done. Tamaya Clear Red over gold flake as explained in the last post, with the stripes, spare tire area and nose scallop picked out with masking tape. Next up, and critical to the whole effect is the graphics design which will require, among other things, naming the darn thing. But the basic paint went down with surprisingly little drama. The usual summary picture is below. Thanx for lookin', B.
  7. Wedgwood Neighborhood Car Show - Seattle 2018

    Yep, that's right exactly. I need to get down to Portland again. Has got to be some of the best quality of life in the USA. I used to live there many moons ago. The last time I made it down to the annual model car show I used to go to there has got to be 5-6 years ago.
  8. Surprisingly high number of quality cars in this little show at a strip mall in my neighborhood here in Seattle. Here's a link to lots more pictures: Wedgwood Neighborhood Car Show - 2018
  9. Modelhaus Inventory Sale!!!!

    I just received the following e-mail from Modelhaus. As the e-mail says the old Modelhaus site remains closed until Saturday when you can place orders on whatever they have to offer. In an incredible leap into the 21st century, if you go to Modelhaustires.com, you'll see actual photos although for now everything is marked Sold Out. Stay tuned...
  10. Each year a group of vintage car buffs from the greater Seattle area set out on a road trip down to the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance. They usually leave on a Tuesday allowing for about 150 miles a day, which is plenty ambitious for some of the fine old iron that makes the journey each. There's always a surprisingly wide array of cars that go and it's nice to get up early and join them after they have met for breakdast and see them all off. Here's this year's selection:
  11. Fiat Fuel Competition Coupe - W.I.P. - Update 08-30

    Thanks guys! The basic bodywork and base coats for the paint are completed now. The nose piece has mounting tabs which are just visible in the pictures below. They align the rear section with the frame. The paint job consists of grey primer followed by Duplicolor MS200 Metal Specks Silver which is a coarse metalflake-like silver lacquer paint. It leaves a slightly rough texture but I didn’t want to sand out the flake so I followed up with four coats of Duplicolor Clear lacquer to smooth things out. Then I shot 2 coats of Tamiya TS-73 Clear Orange which creates a deep gold undercoat. This will be followed by a masking job to create gold scallops and stripes, although at this point the final design is still up in the air. Then a final color layer of two coats of Tamiya TS-74 Clear Red to make a candy red metalflake will be applied. I’ll have some gold decals printed once I come up with a final graphics design and car name. These will go on along with various trade decals and then the whole thing will be sealed under multiple coats of clear and rubbed out. Below is a composite showing the Metal Specks Silver and gold metalflake base coats along with an inset showing what the final body color will be. The motor is completed and the chassis is waiting for the bodywork to be done before I can work on mounting brackets, the front wing, etc. I still need to do something about getting a set of true wire wheels, too. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  12. Thanks for all the answers! It seemed like such a basic question but it really needed to be answered, especially after going to the trouble of laying down and polishing out a good quality paint job. I landed up using most of the techniques you all suggested. Soaking the body in soapy water goes a long way towards softening and floating away the bulk of the residue. Then most of what little is left can be removed using a soft used tooth brush, followed by careful work with a toothpick. I did notice, however, that to really get the panel lines "tight", clean and sharp you should probably prep them by deepening them before applying paint. I noticed that the plastic in the grooves can be irregular in depth and would benefit to some evening out with the back of a #11 right at the start. Anyway the result of your advice worked out just fine. Thanks again! B.
  13. 1953 Ford Crestline Victoria.

    I can only agree. And I've always been tempted to get one of these kits because they seem so "on the money" regarding detail and proportion. Built to this level makes it all the more impressive.
  14. '32 Ford Chopped Lakes-style Coupe - TROG Beach Racer No.2

    Thanks Dann! Here's a link to the Under Glass thread for more angles: