The Forums will be down, Sunday, November 26th starting 9 AM PST for upgrade.We'll probably be down until 1PM PST, but it might be longer. I'm doing a major forum software upgrade, so I expect the forums to operate somewhat differently when we come back online. Update: I've had a medical issue come up, and this window might not get used. Update 2: I'm moving the upgrade to 9 AM Sunday.
I just wanted to make an observation about what, to my eyes, makes this project special. While the efforts to take the build beyond the level of "merely" building the kit to the maximum that it has to offer is completely successful (and remarkable), at its heart the project is an exploration and appreciation of what the kit designers had to offer for what will, in the end, be an extraordinary model. The last two photos show what I'm referring to. All the small details, fabrications, and enhancements key off the core model with the goal to amplify the impact, accuracy and realism of the final result. What a pleasure to watch this come together!
Gorgeous build, and great style, too. Yeah, the Divcos and the tires are from Modelhaus. They made two sets, one with big 'n' littles with pie crust detail and one with the same tires all around, simple ribbed tires, like tose often seen at the dry lakes. I bought one set of each and used them both, I still have the ribbed tires which I'm saving for a dry lakes build. Most Monogram 1/24th tires, like the ones from the '37 Ford Delivery Van, fit perfectly. Like everyone else regarding things Modelhaus I wish I'd bought more. Chris, what are you're Divcos made to fit, tire wise? They look terrific. Your line of parts it's rapidly becoming formidable. You are on my wish list for 2018....
I'm another happy client. Fast order fill, great communication and support. I ordered his beautiful 50's era Indy Halibrands which I used in a somewhat non-traditional way. They come with tiny Firestone decals, include even tinier tire-size markings, which proved tricky for me to install. He sent me a second set for my second try. It turned out they needed a couple of coats of acrylic clear and then they were tough as nails and set perfectly with decal solvent:
For those who might enjoy it, .follow this link for a current w.i.p. that I have every confidence will result in a very fine rendition of the Yellow Jacket, capturing all the character of the original period, something Monogram did better than anyone back then.: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/127408-monogram-yellow-jacket/
So the bottom line is that the recent Showboat Round2 re-issue is virtually the entire original Trophy Series kit with the exception of the Carson top which can be gotten through Replicas & Miniatures. And you get those nice tires... Now that's something worth noting!
It may have fought you all the way, but the bottom line is it looks 100% the part it was designed to play - a true race car. All the nice details like the p/e mesh and solid, bolted-to-the-ground stance, add one to one convincing competition machine. Nicely done.
Thanx Wes! I seem to be taking a rather scattershot approach to this build. I think it’s partially because it’s a revival of a very old project and it’s taken some time to get focused again on where it’s going. Also, since I needed to prove to myself that I could actually execute a smooth, even black paint job, I’ve now got a main body assembly that needs extremely careful handling so I ‘m easily tempted into sub-assemblies that don’t require test fitting the body. As a result I’ve got a lot of bits and pieces completed but haven’t quite reached the point of final assembly. One thing that became clear to me was that with as formal and finished-out a car as the polished black paint created the other details of the car would have to be up to something approaching that level. The motor in particular, didn’t really seem right. Then I happened on an image of Cobra Hi-Po Tri-Carb motor and thought that that was more in keeping with the build, rather than the somewhat rough adaptation of the kit parts I had already done. Some web research turned up a very nice replica of the carburetion, air cleaner and intake courtesy of B-N-L Resins ( http://bnlresins.ipage.com/shoppingopencart/ ), and then I remembered that a friend had given me a very nicely detailed build-up of the Cobra motor that comes in the Buttera chassis Monogram ’29 Ford Delivery Van and ’34 Ford Coupe kits. It was part of care package of half-finished bits he gave me when I was first re-entering car modeling. In particular he had done a sterling job of finishing out the valve covers in matte back over foiled fins and lettering. Carefully prying them off I found they were a perfect fit for the Revell kit Ford small block. So I’ve done a whole new engine assembly with a far more finished and formal look. The front and rear suspension are finalized with the rear assembly installed and only the radius rods and steering left to add in the front. The wheels and tires are completed so I was able to check out the stance. The car sits very low with only the barest hint of a rubber rake, very much in the manner of some of the SoCal resto-rods of the late 60’s. I also was able to set up the headlight assembly, consisting of the larger stock headlamps for the full-fendered variant of the Revell Tudor kit, but mounted low off the front of the shock mounts. A “V8” headlight brace from an AMT Deuce kit connects the two headlights. Cutting down the windshield frame and cutting new glass is the next major project, and then it should be time for final assembly. If I can keep my eye on the ball and avoid messing things up I’m probably 10 days to 2 weeks from completion. Below are some summary pics of where things are currently. The air cleaner and wheels are only loosely attached so they may not be lined up properly as yet, but this should give you a pretty clear sense of the overall stance and style of the car. Thanx for lookin’, B.
That is one incredible photograph, first of all because it's in color, second because it's tack sharp. The result is that it functions like a time machine, giving us an intimate glimpse into the textures, colors and construction details of the era. I also love how everyone in the photo is craning there necks to see the strip action, LOL!
The mod to the stance and the swap out of the rolling stock really pay off, as does the fine detail work with all the plumbing and wiring. Impressive stuff and the result is sort of an idealized version of what AMT, and no doubt the original builder, had in mind. It really adds a lot to the basic kit build, as subtle as these changes might seem.
Add me to the list, even though the main body is generally available from the aftermarket, the lack of decent interiors, windshields, etc. has made using one largely the domain of the dreaded "Advanced Modeler. Interestingly a stock '27 Turtledeck would be, IMHO, rather obscure and a poor seller, and thus the stock parts tooling would be somewhat of a waste, if I'm right.* So, indeed, the kit is a golden opportunity for Revell to, at last, "get it right" hot-rod-wise. I mean, how many times must we gripe about no-longer-in-style suspension bits, ugly shallow steelies, wide front tires, wretched sky-high stances, and/or over-stylized niche models with useless interiors, hoods, etc? This is an open car so I won't discuss unfortunate chops... In any case there are plenty of resources to refer to to nail the current, Post-90's New-Traditional style. Almost everyone on this thread has discussed it. And Revell has yet to do it right. In my opinion, If for once they nailed it the kit would be legendary. But, equally, I remain dubious that they would, not because they can't, but simply because they haven't up to now. When it comes to hot rods the aftermarket is a thriving world of folks correcting Revell's mistakes... *The thought occurs to me, however, that if tooling up a stock representation enforced the discipline of getting the proportions and details of the basis 1:1 correctly represented then I'm all for it!
Looks so nicely put together, a really "tight" build, which is an effect not often seen on show rod style models. I think it's at least partly due to the tone of the AllClad refinisihing, which along with the crisp and sanitary attention to detail, completely transforms the model. It gives it an unexpected realism, if one can say something like that about one of AMT's "Wilder" designs... Big Thumbz Upz!
It's four years on and the Slingster kit should have been a classic by now, IMHO, but I fear after the initial flurry it's faded from the scene. This is partially because dragster models are just not that popular. For myself, I build at least one digger per year, sometimes two, all in the Old School FED mode. So the Slingster was potentially an important kit to me. I'm one of those builders who knows a few things about this era of drag cars and build "impressionistic" models, rather than replicas of actual cars, but try to stay as true-to-type as I can where my knowledge will allow it. I built one Slingster, and it was as I had hoped, an odd combination of under-detailed and misrepresented parts but with lots a finely detailed and well-modeled aspects that would provide a strong basis for an accurate depiction of an early ('59-'61) era digger, just before the dramatic California-style ultra-lights swept everything in their path. So, despite my gripes, I really enjoyed building it - the kit responded very well to my kit-bashing approach. My thinking is that the kit faded precisely because it can be so rewarding straight out of the box. It's typical, in my view, a Revell's philosophy in designing its kits - Revell kits tend to be fairly narrow in scope and force you to build their vision of the subject. Despite the fact that the Slingster kit was supposedly designed specifically to allow a wide variety of results, competition coupe or digger, blown or injected, Hemi or SBC, it was so narrow in its focus on a brief era in drag racing that it's appeal would be primarily to those of us who are interested in such things. And virtually any competent modeler will get an excellent result from this well engineered and conceived kit. But once you built one the likelihood of ever building anything significantly different from it was really quite small. The frame is too finely made and fragile to survive much modification, and there are enough badly conceived or specialized parts that it's function as a parts kit is somewhat restricted. So, at least in my case, I never bought any additional copies, despite the fact that the resulting build is still one of my favorites on my shelf. But if you haven't built it, and are intrigued by this era of dragsters, I highly recommend it, either OOB or subject to some creative kit-bashing. It is an excellent kit from either perspective. Oddly, I never posted to this thread once I had built the kit. Virtually all my comments were made prior to actually buying one. Any thoughts I had were shared on my Drag Racing Models thread. So here are some pics of what I did. As I said, it was mofdfied to address what I viewed as some of the kit's weaknesses, but it still looks essentially like an OOB build, which I believe is the nature of this kit. Also below is the links to my thread for anyone who might have any further interest. W.I.P. and Completed Result: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/86790-my-slingster-1960-vintage-dragster-completed-with-final-pics/#comment-1173626:
Thanks guys! Slow but steady progress is being made. Given the highly degree of finish I’m aiming for I’m trying my best to be careful and meticulous, to whatever degree I can muster… I’ve gotten most of chassis work completed including the front and rear suspension. The front suspension features my favorite dropped front axle in scale, from the Revell ’40 Ford Street Rod Coupe. I believe it can also be found in other Revell ’40 and ’48 Ford hot rod variants. I like it because it’s a finely constructed I-Beam, has a very deep 4” drop, and comes separate from the front spring. I used the front spring from the Revell Deuce kits, but shaved down to a mono-spring configuration for maximum degree of front end lowering. The rear suspension will be largely stock from the kit since the chassis I’m using is from the original build started in 2011 . Doing otherwise would have meant starting an entirely new chassis, which is not my plan this time around. Total focus on the final fit and finish is what this project’s about. However, I had run out of rear end covers and was trying to avoid raping one from an intact Revell Deuce kit. Much to my delight I found that a hub cap from a Monogram ’37 Ford Sedan Delivery kit is a perfect fit – not only do I get the shiny chrome but it has a V8 logo engraved in it. What luck! Also, if you look at the front suspension photo you’ll notice that the chassis horns have been reworked. After the usual filling and smoothing of the outer surfaces to eliminate the indentations for the bumper brackets I also added .020 styrene strips to simulate the stock unfilled U-section chassis rails. It’s not very clear due to the black paint but I inserted the chrome cross bar to highlight it in the picture.
The wheels got a little more attention, now that the suspension is completed. I had a set of resin Buick finned brake drums of now unknown origin. I smooth the front details to fit inside the wheels and drilled the centers out to accept the axle stubs. Then I added some resin ’40 Ford backing plates. The finned parts are finished in Krylon Chrome to simulate polished aluminum.
Another piece of detailing is being lavished on the hood side panels. This is a detail I saw done several years ago on one of Lyle Willit’s exquisite Deuces – real opened up louvers. Lyle did it by grinding out the inside of the hood sides to thin them and then cutting open the remaining thin plastic between the louvers. When he did it I was inspired to try my hand at it but found that it was very critical how much you thinned the plastic since the ultra-thin louver bits tended to warp. So this time I decided to leave the hood thickness untouched and just cut into the surface from the front with the back of a #11 blade. It works quite well, .but I’m not sure, at least with a black car, whether it’s worth the effort. It’s not hard to do, but to say that it’s tedious and boring would be a gross understatement. I don’t seem to be able to do more that 4-5 louvers at a sitting before I need to move on to something else. So far I have one side done and the other not quite half done. I’m hoping they’ll be enough shine and sparkle on the motor so that something shows through them on the final build…
Another piece of detailing was the grill, done with black bars and a chrome rim. Normally this would involve some tricky foil work but with the introduction of the Molotow Chrome paint pen it was radically simplified. Just strip, paint it black and, suing the 1mm Molotow tip, draw in the chrome edge. Thanks Molotow!
And lastly I’ve got the interior pretty much completed. Most of it is from the kit with some material added to the rear of the side panels where the rear seat would have been. There’s no room for the rear seat because of the kick-up from the z’d frame. Instead I made a simple floor panel from styrene grooved sheet (Plastruct corrugated roof material) and styrene semi-circular rod for the skid rails. It’s finished in gloss black with foiled rails. The tank is the kit gas tank cut out, glued together and finished in Metalizer Aluminum plate. The seats are some really nice, simple, and authentic old school race car buckets from Big Donkey Resins. The dash and steering wheel are stock kit items.
That’s it for now. The motor needs plumbing and wiring before it gets installed. The suspension locating arms needed to be decided on and then on to ,final assembly. The trick will be not to mess up the nice, shiny body… Thanx for lookin’, B.