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Bernard Kron

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About Bernard Kron

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    MCM Ohana

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    Seattle, WA
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    Bernard Kron

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  1. Thanks! Yep. There's mainly the motor and final decals and trim to do. The suspension bits are already done and waiting for final assembly.
  2. If you're still taking entries I just got back to a project I started in January 2014. It's under Drag Racing Models here: Here's where I left it off back then (I only posted once before running into some paint and motor issues that made me put it away: And here's where I'm at today: Like Dan Himmel did with his knockout Junior Fueler, I'll post updates here as well as in the original thread from six years ago (yikes!).
  3. Overall, I tend to finish most projects I start. But over the years I’ve accumulated a fair number of unfinished projects. Like most of us, of course, I intend to finish them “someday”, but some projects stick in my mind more than others, and I intend to finish those sooner rather than later. This was one of that category of stalled projects. Now, some 6 years later I at last am on the path to completing it. What stalled it was some minor paint flaws and problems getting serious about the motor, originally a small block Chevy which was slated to be injected. But the Triple Nickel is more of a classic late 50’s car rather than an early 60’s machine like the Tony Nancy 22 Jr. ’29 roadster with its injected Buick nailhead. It’s roots are in a dry lakes/drag hybrid rather than a pure dragstrip car like the 22 Jr. This is especially true since I chose to emphasize some of the earlier 555 details in my version. So when I resumed this project the other week one of the first changes I made was to choose cubic inches and big torque over light weight and revs by going with a Revell Parts Pak Cadillac 354 with 6 ‘97’s. The other change I made was to use AMT 8” M&H slicks with their higher profile and larger diameter rather than the Ma’s Resin 7” pie crusts. They sit in the wheel arches better and are more in keeping with the big cubes/big torque approach. Other than these two changes I was pleasantly surprised how much progress I had made before I put this project aside. The chassis had been finished out and painted, the tin work cut, fit and painted and the basic suspension completed and fitted. So far I have finished up the suspension, fabricated the steering parts based on the steering gear from the Tony Nancy dragster part of the Revell Tony Nancy Double Dragster kit, .completed and finished out the wheels, and begun the final fitting of the body and chassis for final assembly. The big Caddy mill has been started and will feature 6 Stromberg ‘97’s in keeping with the late 50’s theme. The pictures below show most of the new work except for the suspension arms front and rear and the steering gear. These parts are completed but missing from the photos. The gold numbers are from a set of numbers I had printed earlier this year. I’ll add gold striping tri and, team and trade decals during the finishing up phase. Next is .building out the motor and then final assembly. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  4. Many of the photos from my original post have been wiped out by the Photobucket debacle so here is a repost of the introductory material from back in 2014. Next ;up is the update from this evening as I finally pick up this long stalled project. I can;t edit the old post so here are the photos from the original post. The second Murray & Waters roadster which became the first 555 car. The Triple Nickel car as it stands today as featured in the current TRJ. This was the third car the team built. Here are the wheel sub-assemblies before finishing. Here’s an early picture of the frame before the roll hoop braces were added. … This is a composite picture showing the status of the build just before starting the paint process. … This is the body in basic paint. …
  5. Monogram has always stood out as the premier plastic model kit maker when it came to documenting the Golden Age of Hot Rodding. The 'Lil Coffin, as awkward as it is to build, when done to this level, demonstrates how faithfully their designers could reproduce these iconic cars in scale. Beautiful model. Congrats! On a side note, this is such a fabulous Parts Kit that I've never actually had one stay intact long enough to consider a straight kit build. But this is one kit that deserves it, as your version so clearly shows.
  6. Beautifully turned out detail build. Even the metal tones are spot on. The close-up photography is merciless. The fact that everything holds up to this as it does is proof of the excellence of your skills. Where did you get the blower belt decal?
  7. Nicely done, indeed! Good to see the Phantom Vicky cowl graft while still under construction. Amazingly good fit! The hood graft is virtually the one remaining parts use from this gold mine of a parts kit I hadn't gotten a round to. Like you all, I have several of the pre-paints in my stash. For a while you could pick 'em up, brand new and unstarted, for less than 10 bucks... Those days are gone now, but it's still a treasure trove of superb stuff.
  8. Really nice fabrication work, You're approach to a symmetrical louver pattern for the hood is so simple and, now that I've seen it, so self evident. I'll be looking forward to the completed hood. It would make an ideal solution for a well-proportioned top side louver set. Oh for a proper resin copy..., LOL. In any case, the Flintstone body caught me by surprise. I had always assumed it was an AMT re-pop but it appears that it's design to fit either the Phantom Vicky chassis and/or perhaps the Revell series (judging from the work you're doing). How is the overall quality, and what have you determined it's designed to fit? Looking forward to seeing more, more, more...!!!
  9. I enjoyed a long-distance friendship with Barry over the years on this and other forums. We shared a mutual interest in hot rod modeling. When I first resumed modeling now more than 10 years ago it was Barry who saw the potential in my early efforts and offered enthusiasm and encouragement. He had a unique gift for a stylish and impeccably turned out model which I always found inspirational. I tried my best to let him know how important his models and his comments were in my development. From all the kind words expressed here I suspect I was only one of many. I will miss him. As so many have said, he was one of the good guys...
  10. It's not often that we see the old AMT '40 Ford Coupe done this well, not just technically but also in terms of styling. The stance, rolling stock, colors and details all ring true to this more contemporary Street Rod look. Bravo!
  11. Thanks to you all once more for the kind comments. They're much appreciated!
  12. I use Brite-Touch primers often, either as a sanding primer, a finish primer or as a flat paint. I prefer the Brite-Touch red oxide primer for its shade of red to the Duplicolor equivalent. It's more like the classic hot rod red oxide shade. Their grey primer is much lighter in shade than the Duplicolor Hot Rod Gray primer which is so dark it tends to darken color coats. I use the Brite-Touch black primer as my general purpose flat black. I only wish they made a white primer. As far as performance is considered Brite-Touch primers have good blocking qualities, protect styrene from lacquers, and fill and sand down nicely, so no complaints, and at 60% of the price of Duplicolor it's becoming my go-to. I also can recommend the Brite-Touch gloss colors, black and white. Nice basic lacquers that can be used as final color coats with good results. I agree that Tamiya white primer gives superior results to virtually anything out their, but it's so expensive that it's shear folly to use it as a working primer for bodywork.
  13. Thanks Claude. Here are links for Under Glass and the w.i.p.:
  14. Great outcome in your first foray in RatRodness. I especially enjoy the fun you had with all the details. And the motor is a handsome piece all by itself. I, too, have only officially built one rat rod although I can think of a (very) few other models that were definitely influenced by the Rat Rod idiom. Besides the obvious freedom in parts selection and the weathering, the other thing I enjoy about Rat Rods is the elongated proportions and the lowness. It's a style that appears rarely in the world of "real" rods, although in past decade or so it's merging in the Traditional Rod world. Sometimes in Rat Rods that look can be overdone and the car comes out just plain ugly and misshapen. But in your case the stance and proportions are just right and you take full advatange of working in the Rat Rod style. Nice one! Just last week I finished a second version of my one and only official rat rod, except this time it was shiny and clean, full of chrome, with definite late 50's hot rod show car details and colors. I did it because I like the Rat Rod stance and proportions so much I wanted to blend them with those Traditional Hot Rod vibes. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your creativity coming off your bench!
  15. Nice one, Richard! The MPC frame is my "weapon of choice" when I do FED subjects both because it's a legs-under designed which places the slicks in a particularly attractive positiona nd the approx. 160" wheelbase is ideal in its proportions. It's also well detailed with real round tubing unlike the Don Long 200+ inch wheelbase Ivo/TooMuch, etc. frame. I also have developed techniques to eliminate the quirky center lever steering gizmo. I did a Fiat coupe, myself, late last year on this frame. I like your more cab-forward, cut down body version. I'll have to try one at some point. Mine had a full roof and rear bodywork.
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