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About Wolfangel

  • Birthday 06/02/1970

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  • Scale I Build

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  • Location
    Johnson City, TN
  • Full Name
    Marcus Jennings

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  1. They one thing I did on mine...and it helped a lot. And this depends on if you can get it back out. Is sand the mold seams off of every cam lobe....and make sure it it smooth. The lifter will get hung up on that and cause problems. Also make you don't "flat spot" the cam lobes. Make sure they stay rounded. I used an oil that is made for slot cars, its light and doesn't cause problems. All of that makes a huge difference.
  2. Well.....3 1/2 - 4 hours later.......there is now an upper deck with all the seats. These seemed to fight me a little bit this time...unlike the lower deck. Decals ripped....didn't want to go on right....but...I overcome all that and got them done (maybe I was going crazy from looking at all the plaid and stripes)...lol. I also took pictures of some of the photo-etch that is being used.....heater vents, lower back of the seats, kick panels. This bus has a total of 34 seats to decal and put together. A few years ago I built the Cityliner bus....and it has 60 seats. You combine both of these busses and you have about 23 or 24 model CARS worth of seats....lol. I have used 66 PIECES of photo-etch so far on this thing....and still got more to go. Its moving right along tho. I'm very happy with the results so far.
  3. Let the assembly line begin. In case anybody is wondering what all goes into every seat.....here it is. There are 20 seats on the upper floor....19 of those have seat frames and legs...the other seat goes to the back with no frame or legs..........and on the bottom floor there are 14 seats....12 of those have seat frames and legs....the other 2 go to the back on each side with no frames or legs (look at first post)....and 2 decals for EVERY seat. And at the top right of the picture....is the photo-etch rails that go on the back bottom edge of EVERY SEAT. This is basically how much goes into each seat. Another tip: I left the seats and the seat frames on the parts trees. I just cut away all the connection points except for the bottom edge of each one...then cleaned up all the little nubs from the other areas. That way they can be all painted at once. I did the same thing to the seats themselves. Saves a lot of time and you get the same coverage on all seats. The main color I am using is a mica red that has been dull coated to give a vinyl sheen. There ARE right and left hand seats and left and right hand decals....just be careful of that....that is why I have them separated like this. Let the fun begin.....
  4. Thanks for that GeeBee...much appreciated. In my look-ups of the busses.....i saw both.....just stuck to the body itself and then others that you could tell where like on some sort of backing board to be attached the body. I will probably just put the decals straight to the body....or I may just put them on some really thin plastic so i can change them out for other signage if I want to....not sure yet. I think the photo-etch radiator really looks impressive. And I got a couple more tips for ya: (mainly my own fault)...but just in case it happens to somebody else. If you put the body all together like I did....and you are going to use the advertisement frames.....do yourself a favor.....and drill all the holes for the frames BEFORE you glue the body together....lol....its not fun trying to drill all those holes when there isn't much room to do it. The other tip would be....be sure you have your motor detailed and painted....and installed BEFORE you glue the bottom floor and front wall on. I did not do that....and I had to cut off the back part of the engine and glue it to the driveshaft, then put in the motor. It wont be seen and even from underneath, it doesn't show that I did it. The picture with the red circle and lines are where I cut the engine. The round piece is separate anyway, but I had to cut at the square flange to get it to fit. Both of these tips were my own fault. I was just moving right along...and yes I do skip around sometimes in my builds....so....just a warning to anybody building this.
  5. Well......I have a lot I have to live up to....considering I have a few people watching this that actually live in England (no pressure)....lol. I do have a question tho. The advertisements that is put on the sides of the buses.....is it put on some kind of board or is it just stuck straight to the bus? The kit calls for putting the advertisements straight to the bus....and of course if you do that.....it will conform to all the lines, rivets, etc. I wasn't sure if that was correct or should I attach them to some thin plastic THEN put them on the bus. And as for the bus being clean.....im modeling a "restored/well taken care of bus" I guess you could say. Its just to nice to weather it up and get it dirty....not my building style anyway.
  6. Todays topic is more about hints and tricks rather than an update (could be that to I guess) on the London Bus. I was a little reserved about having a multi-piece body on this bus (8 pieces to be exact)...since any glue mistakes would definitely show. I had found a few websites about gluing most of the body...if not all....together for painting and not showing any glue marks. If you plan on doing this....do this after you have the first floor together....don't have to have the seats in....but definitely have the "walls" up so you can line up the body panels. I use these kind of clamps so I can fold then under the bus so I can make sure its sitting square when I attach the panels. Make sure you clamp, tape, re-clamp if you need to....to make sure everything lines up good. After its all clamped together, I ran Tamiya thin cement along all the attachment points, being careful not to get it on the interior panels of the bus....or you would have glued it there and hard to take back off. As you can see, the body slides right off and stands on its own. Now it can be painted as one piece with no worries about glue seams....just masking will be a bit more involved on the inside....but...that's no biggie. One thing I will also tell ya....when you attach the upper floor....you may want to sand the rear left corner some (CIRCLED RED IN THE PICTURE). The body fits extremely tight in that area....and almost pushes the body panels apart even after gluing. Now that may have been a miscalculation on my part...but I have seen the same problem on other sites about the bus. I also went and glued 3/32 x 0.14 square brass tubing to the tops of the side panels. The top area had a bit of a wave at the top edge, so that is how I fixed it. After its painted, it will like a structural part of the bus. As for the top....I didn't want the whole center section of the top to come off (its made that way from the kit). I plan on showing this model (if they ever start again). So I just followed the inside seams and cut off the radius curves and glued them on permanently. You will still have a top you can still remove, but it will be a smaller section, and the bus will look better from the side. Hope this helps someone planning on building this bus. For the most part, its going together real good. A few hiccups here and there....but....not at all bad.
  7. iamsuperdan......here ya go......the link to the PE kits. https://www.spotmodel.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=london+bus
  8. This was a Christmas gift my mom got me in 2019. She knew it wouldn't be started anytime soon....and she wanted to see it done someday...but sadly she passed away in May....so i am building this in memory of her. This is about a weeks worth of work. I have done so much painting and masking to this. I have also about 5 sheets of photo-etch from SPOTMODEL to put on this. I have already used about 45 pieces of photo-etch...and still a long way to go. Let me know what you think.
  9. Here is the grille. It is the stock Clodbuster grille. I sanded off the 4x4x4...used my dremel tool to grind away between the bars....then smoothed out the bars and rechromed them with a chrome pen. Maybe not the best job, but alot better looking than having 4x4x4 on there.
  10. I like the classic look of the Clodbuster, so i modified mine to keep the somewhat original look. Here is mine i finished. I hope this will give ya some inspiration. Here is what is done.....bedcover, lift kit, scratch built lower shock mounts, tilt front end (stock body mounts moved to windshield cowl), working V8, scratch built headers, scratch built firewall, aluminum shocks, scratch built upper links (gets rid of the pieces below the original trailing arms). I also modified the graphics and cut out the "wolverine-ish" looking cartoon guy. And here is the link to the V8 motor................... https://www.darkdragonwing.com/products/1-10-rc-ohv-v8-h/
  11. I finished building mine about a month ago. I didnt get the Black Edition, i just got the normal Super Clodbuster edition. I did alot to mine...bedcover, tilt front end, working V8 motor, lifted it up.....it looks pretty good. Those trucks are open to all sorts of modifications. Yours is looking great so far, cant wait to see it done. I can show ya pics, but i didnt want to hijack your thread.
  12. Here is a long overdue update. A lot has happened in my life lately....and I haven't had much time to work on it....but...here it is. Still a long way to go. I got the track running good with the slot cars and the train and also the drag strip up and running good. By the way....the drag cars.....Tyco 440x2.....Lambo and Ferrari.....running at 24 volts. train_and_car.mp4 slot_car_dragstrip.mp4
  13. Started out as the Stacy David Rat Roaster. Changed the valve covers, wired, throttle cable and linkage, cut open truck and used louvered trunk from another 32, scratch built inside of trunk and side exhaust, modified dash, aftermarket seats....etc. Lots to list but that is the highlights.
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