Bainford

Cheers Sam. I think I've got some MPC parts at home.

I'm doing a restoration on an old build, and bought an MPC 'Super Charger' 74 Charger kit on ebay to source the parts I need, but the glass in the kit has a heavy dark tint. I'm looking for clear (not tinted) glass for an MPC 74 Charger. I think the glass from any MPC 71-74 Charger or Roadrunner will fit. Got stuff to trade. Cheers

Is the 80 Bronco MPC or Monogram?

I have an old Wen Hobby Centre like the one pictured. The PTO coming out of the end is intended for a cable driven rotary tool. But you can remove that and fit an aluminium disc about 2.5 inches dia to the end of the exposed shaft. Glue 320 grit sand paper to the disc. The fuzzy line drawing below shows an adjustable table that fits to the side via the two screw holes shown in the photograph. This little table, set 90* to the sanding disc, makes the perfect device for flat spotting tires.

This is my primary reason for gluing the wheels solid. Flat spotting the contact patch gives the model the appearance of weight and substance, and greatly improves realism. Gluing the wheels solid also provides the opportunity to get the wheels on nice and straight..., or create a little (intentional) negative camber, if it's appropriate. With the exception of wire axels, I have yet to see a model kit on which the rolling wheels were perfectly square. For me, shelf appearance is much more important than rolling wheels. To each their own, of course. Some guys like to build exactly as the kit was intended by the designer, which includes rolling wheels, and that's cool. A nice thing about this hobby is that there are very few real rules.

Cheers! Much appreciated. Thank you too, peteski. I’ll check the lexan as well.

My Dremel is variable speed from 0 - 30,000. It’s model 395 Type 5, though must be at least 25 years old now, so I don’t know if it’s a current model. For some reason it says 8000-30,000 on it, but the fully variable control definitely starts at 0 on up. It’s a very good tool. Always in use. I have a flex shaft installed on mine, a very useful accessory.

Has anyone found a source for PETG in thicknesses less than .020"? That seems to be the thinnest readily available online, but would like to find .010", or even .015".

Yup, or from the '56 Ford Vicky. They would be my first choices.

Interference between model components is not uncommon, and a hood that doesn't fit well due to interference with the induction system is perhaps one of the more common fit issues. The close fit of these parts on the 1:1 car mean that on a scale model they will be practically touching. Because the engine is installed in the chassis and the hood is part of the body, the relationship between the body, the interior bucket, and the chassis determines the fit between the hood and the engine, and that relationship has a lot of wiggle room. Throw in some variables such as the cleanliness and diligence of the work by the original builder, tolerance stack of the various components, and the difficulties of scaling thick plastic parts to represent thin metal ones, and interference issues will be common. Good model building is about finding and correcting these fit issues during the build process.

Often times, when a decal from an older kit won't release from the paper backing, the cause is moisture damage. Long term exposure to excessive humidity is usually the culprit. I store my kits on a shelving unit in the basement, but the humidity gets a bit high in the summer months. A couple years ago I noticed some kits stored on the bottom shelf (where circulation is poor) were showing signs of moisture damage to the decal sheets. The damage appears minimal, and in some cases undetectable, but in many cases I will likely experience the same issues you are facing. I bought a couple boxes of small, medium, and large freezer bags (the zip seal type), and went through every kit (of about 570), inspected the decals and like you, placed them in the sealed bags. I now automatically place the decals from all new purchases in bags. This should be quite effective at keeping humidity and other moisture away from the decal sheets. I have not tried the Micro decal film, but I imagine it will not help with water damaged decals. I believe it's primary purpose is to save decals that would otherwise break up when immersed in decal water, as some old (and some not so old) decal sheets will do.

Sweet little Fiat. Nice work on the roof. Cool build.

Nice conversion, and great looking model. Very creative.

It's a valuable recyclable material, so I wouldn't expect to get it for free. However, offer $2-5 for a sheet. That is many times the value of the material as scrap, but still a very cheap source of thin aluminium sheet for the modeller. A friend who worked in a print shop years ago gave me seven of these plates for general garage use. I had them kicking around for years before getting rid of all except one, which I kept for modelling.

Interesting technique, Bernard. Thanks for sharing. I have never seen Kosutte Gin Sang in person, but I remember a few years ago it was a topic of interest on the SA forum, and I was curious about it then. Using the link you posted above, I checked out the C1 Metalizer. Looks like interesting stuff, so I ordered some. However, I have a product that I bought in a craft store about 25 years ago that seems very similar (the brand name escapes me right now). In fact, I bought two little bottles, one with a silvery powder and one with a gold powder. In the ensuing years the small bottle of silvery powder appears to have oxidised, having darkened and lost much of its brilliance and almost seeming a bit graphite like (like fine, powdered pencil lead). Have you noticed anything like this happening with your Kosutte Gin Sang? When I bought the stuff, I had no idea what to do with it, but it seemed like it might have a purpose. I figured I could add it to paint in the manner of pearl powders, but never tried that. I really like the effect of rubbing it on a painted surface. Another surface sheen/texture product to keep in the arsenal. Cheers.