The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
any clue as to when the tanker will be reissued??? whats wrong with that lovely green color....... now on a happier note.... prime it, modify it it, sand it, prime it, wash it..... and paint it the color you want...... always works
a problem many of us encounter, hence why many started projects, or projects printed as is not as we mentally thought
i used to work a side job just for my models, and my ex was annoyed that i focused there, vs a bar regularly.... my theory was i had something to show for it when done, instead of unpaid bills or headaches physically or otherwise
ok, i know your pain, here is my solution that has worked for me on painted bodies.... i use bare metal foil to give a demarcation line(cover a different paint like two tone), then using masking or body shop green 2 in wide tape, attach this to ziploc, and to baremetal foil.... this has left me minimal line to buff ot, and the wider tape makes for a tighter seal between foil and ziploc bags...
hope this works for you as well, as it has me to this date, when the paint isn't totally wet i then peel off ziploc / tape, then dry further then pull bare metal with minimal if any paint pull...
i always over cover the area with the lighter color first, then apply the darker color, it seems to cover better and protects the lighter color from discoloring at same time
there is no immediate trick to painting, its practice and skills used.
12 years a go i met a man that used car paint, i learned his trick prior to his death, its a two part primer from dupont called vari prime..... as of today, (knocks on glass table) it has not harmed any of my models, and though its a two part 3:1 usually with a paasche airbrush, i now use an HVLP touch up to prime with, and add some reducer to thin it
it dries flat, which is better then model master primer.... this primer has no adverse for me at least on styrene... no idea about resin, ive yet to work with resin.... and i can use any paint over this primer, or nail polish
i usually try to give it 3-4 days to dry thourghly, and when i ve needed to strip the model due to issues, the primer dissolves, with the model putty in brake fluid vs. any thing aerosal
Okay guys need a bit of help with this..... I have some scale thread, tha ti plane to use for the drums on 2 recovery vehicles.... may plan was to try to airbrush the thread with modelmaster steel.... any better thoughts on the matter appreciated
i figured this would be the best way to add color to the white thread sent by manufacturer
apportionmate, and DOT / HUD tags are required by many states when you do interstate hauling or move doubles / triples...
and what ever you friggen do, make sure you have the right endorsements on your CDL or you are screwed..... I know a local driver, who picked a few pieces of HAZMAT up, and ended up having a leak, and him, and his company had major issues due to no tags on the box container, and he had a chemical leak and no hazmat endorsement on CDL..... luckily the trooper that opened it first from the smoke didnt get killed from the vapor nor an explosion due to fast fresh oxygen like a fire.... this just goes to show you need drums tied to a wall under all circumstances
ive always sprayed the lightest color first, over enough area , then started teh mask with bare metal foil to reduce the paint lip, then i tape a large baggie around the rest of the model leaving the darker area to be painted exposed.
so far the the baggies havent given me issues with bleed like newspaper, or paper bag has
I havent seen the complaint regarding AMT onthe other site, but if sent a link, ill read, but I have to ask, why is everyone so hostile??? It was, and is a modelers opinion regarding the primary model company here in the US, and it wasnt filtered or edited.
All the posts here are valid, but lets look outside the box a minute, if your going to cry foul about AMT, why not cry foul about the man that could afford a limited run, of a kit that had interest, and "gouge" modelers on the cost??
Either way currently the box art is just that box art, ultimately we decide if we want to dig into our pocket and shell out our hard earned duckets for the kit.
We can complain, the real question is will it make them do anything different? Currently where are all the molds, can they be repaired?? yes it would raise costs a bit, but not as much as initial tooling.... this tidbit of wisdom is something i lived with every 4-5 years as my father and uncles worked for General Motors, so when new models were introduced and plansts closed for 2-3 weeks to retool and stock the assembly line to manufacture something new, hence generic manufacturing started.
Years ago there was a man at AMT that was an engineer and did a series in the "blue printer" Named dave carlock, didnt he start the history thing you mentioned Art??
Whats annoying now, is i've in several months purchased a few kits from the new AMT, and an older R/M mustang, that they re-assigned the kit number too, so there was no way to get parts from them, and AMT wouldnt supply the missing pieces.... I mention this as I've also picked up a few other manufacturer kits, one being Tamiya. Their Cust service dept gave me a few things they needed from me, and helped me with a bunch of parts missing from a kit that is past my skill level, but i'm trying it any way, its the only way to improve skills
bottom is we control the kits manufactured by input to the company, and by the hard earned DUCKETS we shell out.... currently with our economy we want a few dollar's worth for a dollar when our dollar isnt worth what it once was.
We just need to evaluate what we are doing first and think twice, avoid the headaches we just need to accept that the companies are not what they once were, and the quality isnt there either...... i was told awhile back im a modeler, take CA glue, and a #11 BLADE, AND ADAPT AND IMPROVISE and enjoy what your trying to build
my two cwnts worth is use a candle, after its settled, stretch the sprue thin, and CA tack into place and fill thatway, then when filled, skim coat of glue, and accelarator, and then sand/prep, and a skim coat of putty and sand to finish
I had the fortune of go to the local caterpillar dealership this week to drop off an excavator, while there i recalled your wiring question.
The parts guy who loved my dozer i did for the dealership years ago told me to go to caterpillar.com, and they have electrical, and linkage diagrams there, as well as the injection rack order similar to distributor and plugs, you just have to search out your motor
dont use rc models, use snap kits from revell / mongram, they have a program called make it / take it. your also going to need sprue cuters and someone to work withthe kids, sprue cutters can be gotten fromXuron Cuttoes in Maine, they will work with you for maybe a dozen cutters.
you can also promote this program in schools up to 3rd grade, the skillls here are hand/eye coordination to give an end result
ive done the program for my cars club, xuron helped with cutters as we have helped with this program, though a little more involved to kids that were in 6th grae with using both snap / glue kits.
our local schools like it, and the texaco day school program likes our time with the kids as well