KevinMoparFord

Those are not swastikas on the rod or the real car pictured.

Had a great trade with s.svendsen. Deal with him anytime.

I learned the hard way with the Tamiya stands as well. Now first thing is I tape the bottom stand to the top. It does not spin, but it will not fall a part again.

Here is the first one I have ever tried. Still working on getting decals, tryong to have the Galpin Gasser decals made for this. I made the headers, first time trying that. Color is Testor's Inca Gold with Wet look clear, the clear was decanted and then I added in some HOK silver leaf metal flake.

Decals are a little tough on ths sides as they wanted to stcik instantly. On piece of advice, put the trunk one on first. I started with the side one first and that is wrong. You have to paint the lower part of the quarter black and I should have checked it better, I had to go back and paint a little higher around wheel well to make it to decal. Worked out OK becuase then I cleared everything so you could not tell the touch up.

Finished this model in 2 weeks. Made it a challenge to get done for our club themed Chevy night. Do not know how you guys get them done on the 24 hour build, 2 weeks was tight. Used Testor's Daytona Yellow, Classic Black, and Wet look clear. Box stock, kit decals and bare metal foil.

Completed a trade with Robert Lightsey, OldnSlow, and everything worked out great. Recommend tradking with him anytime. Just completed a trade with billcart and rcommend dealing with him anytime.

Great show! Glad the new location worked for the show. Your club did a great job!

One more day to go! Made up the radiator to look like the aluminum one in real cr. Added in plug wires. Painted the headers and tet fit it together. May have to get the engine to sit up higher, but right now I am happy the headers clear everything, the velocity stacks do line up with the hole in the hood, and it is going together without many issues.

The engine bay walls are gone so that will not be an issue! Replicating car from Hot Rod magazine and the inner fender wells are gone. One less headache!

First time I have ever scratch built headers. Car has Exhast pipes coming from side of header tubes as well, so those still need to be made. WIll be painting these white once epoxy dries.

I do not care for the car, but it was done perfectly and the engineering in it is way beyond me. You need to google it to find out everything of why the plumbing is so weird on it. For starters, the turbos are where the back seat should be. So the exhaust runs back there, up into the turbo and then sends the boosted air back forward to the engine. From there I am at a loss at all of the plumbing the guy had throughout the car. I have to admit that I did not like the overall appearance of the car or the color, but from a perfection stand point the guy nailed it. The car was widened as well for all of this stuff, so the amount of work was phenomenal. Now as for the rest of the great 8, I think this was a very weak year. I really do not know what the judge’s look for when selecting. There was a 68 or 9 Camaro, nice car, but across from it was a 68 or 9 Firebird that I thought was nicer. Definitely trending toward the newer cars, the Riv, the Camaro, a first generation Nova, and a 57 Chevy were among the top 8, all nice cars, some just did not seem to be all that much to say they were on of the best out of the show. The Nova, the Camaro, and the 57 for sure were all nice customs, but either had a lot of the work so subtle not to notice, or where just 'nice' custom cars, Had nowhere near the work of the Riv, and really, from a body and custom stand point, not as much work as the other Great 8 cars. I guess that is why a lot of us are not judges at these kinds of shows! Beautiful to look at and we all know those are the kind of cars none of us will ever own, and may not want to. I will stick to my old cars that I can drive, park anywhere I want, and enjoy!

The car was rattle can sprayed Inca Gold from Testor's one coat Lacquer line. I decanted some wet look clear, added in a pinch of House of Kolor Dry Pearls & Flakes, then air brushed that onto the Inca Gold. Polished it out then bare emtal foiled the fron and rear windows. Suspension is a combination of kit parts, front axle from an A100, front springs from the 55 Chevy Gasser kit, and some evergreen stock. Parts have been sprayed with All Clad chrome. I did remove the rear quarter trim and I am quite happy with the results, no ghost lines so far!

First attempt at a gasser. Trying to complete for March 23 Buckeye Model Contest. Will attempt ti fit a motor next then I can start building. Just got the suspension set, I like the stance!

Here are my pictures from the Detroit Autorama. Tought to get some shots, lots of people. Great show! http://public.fotki.com/Kevin60brd/detroit-autorama-2014/

I prefer Saturday. If the show is a little farther away and on a Saturday I have a better chance of getting to it.

Traded with om617 in Norway with no issues. Worked with me on shipping charges and transaction was very smooth. Would recommend dealing with him anytime.

Just completed a trade with Eric N. with no complaints. Great to work with.

I think part of it depends on the kit. I have started using air brush only in the last couple years so I am not an expert. Usually less than 1oz will do. When I painted my last 69 Daytona, ran out of paint with a 1oz jar. Part of that was how many different pieces needed body color and I had them all attached in different sticks so I think that meant more wasted paint. Nose cone, firewall, fender scoops, nose cone screen, undercarriage, all got body color and I think there is more wasted when you are painting parts seperately instead of just a body and a hood. I think it does depend on the color and what kind of a base you use as well.

There is a display by our club. Show is in May at St. Michaels in Independence.

No shows coming up in Cleveland area in the near future. Columbus has a great one coming up March 23, look at the contest and shows section on this forum for link. Join the North Coast Auto Modelers. We display models at our meetings twice a month. Next meeting 2/4 in Garfield Hts. Check out our website http://northcoastautomotivemodelers.webs.com/

Ohio has it, changed slightly that now the plates expire in 40 years, used to not expire. You can register the year of manufacture plate at the same time, but you have to carry the black and white historic plates and both registrations at all times. Very reasonable that it was less than $50.

Awesome build! If you built for a contest I wish you great success with it! Just a couple of extras that would not be tough to add, paint of ad photo etch radiator cap. If you do not want to buy one, PM I may have one to send you. Paint the battery caps, should be easy to do with a toothpick or pin, and add a drop of silver for the battery terminals. Not be nit picky, just want you to have the best chance of winning! Simple things to add, you have done such a great job with the details already!

Depends if you are going for a stock look or not. Look up real colors, I did mine in the factory blue and white, look for post under glass, shows picture of real car as well. THe blue had some metallic to it, not much, was Regatta Blue from Scale Finished and the white has not metallic at all.

Technically upper door frame colors are called out on fender tag. Most white cars had black upper colors, but not all. I have seen white on white, there are also weird color variants out there of this as well. My 70 RT is burnt orange car with burnt orange interior and the upper door color is also burnt orange. You may see body color on fender tags for some Mopars 3 times, lower body color, upper body color (Could be two tone car with trim for vinyl top used to break colors) and uppder door frame color.