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    • Dave Ambrose

      Board Status   07/20/2018

      Maintenance completed, but there is still more come.


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About gman

  • Rank
    MCM Friend
  • Birthday 07/04/1967

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24 1/25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Vancouver BC
  • Full Name
    Greg Peters

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  1. Testors New Color Shift Paint

    Yes, you can mention them. There is a whole thread devoted to HL: I saw those Testors color-shifting paints on my last trip into HL. I wasn't too sure on how nice they would spray, as the paint on the caps looked like a pretty textured finish. You should post up some photos of the paint on the model ;).
  2. As always, great finishes- very realistic. Beautiful build.
  3. If you will be sanding, filling and painting over top of the bonds, I would probably use CA+ or CA ++ superglue.
  4. Revell '68 Corvette Roadster 2'n1

    ^^ Ditto Lacquer over enamel is usually a bad move, as the hotter solvents in the lacquer can react with the cooler solvents in the enamel, leading to a science project on your plastic (that will be even harder to "fix"). Even though Tamyia's lacquers use solvent that is cool enough not to affect plastic, they will be more than volatile enough to affect enamel. Enamel takes forever to dry, and the outer skin of the paint will dry while the inner portion may stay uncured for weeks, longer if it was sprayed in heavy coats. That means the lacquer can attack the outer skin and chemically affect the uncured enamel very quickly. A test spray should answer that for you. I would suggest stripping the old paint off using one of the popular methods before re-shooting with Tamiya lacquer. Tamiya sprays are very nice. If applied properly in thin, successive coats, they also level out very well due to final coats melting into and smoothing out the previous coats. That means they need a very smooth surface to look their best. As they go on thin and semi-translucent, base color will shift how the top coats look with their metallics. Test spray a small piece of plastic over silver vs. bare plastic and/or primer to see how that effects final color. Plastic spoons will show you the end result while not requiring a lot of valuable paint to do so.
  5. 83 Hurst Olds

    Hit it with various amounts of dullcote and yes, should be even closer.
  6. 83 Hurst Olds

    If you absolutely have to have a spray, Tamiya TS-33 Hull Red might get you in the ballpark. The cloth used in the GMs of that era would eventually turn more to the purple end of the spectrum with sun fading, like in the 1:1 interior photo above (though that isn't as faded as some I've seen in-person).
  7. '29 Model A highboy

    I'd say '37- a '37 Chevrolet. Looks like a bobbed '37 Chevy grille and hood sides under a modified '37 Chevy hood mated to the Ford cowl.

    This is going to be really nice.

    Tuned in and waiting to see what that red looks like on the body
  10. Fantatsic Treasure found on Ebay

    Polish out the paint, good to go
  11. Definitely some incredible colors in that bunch that would look good on a variety of bodies. Looking forward to seeing what you pick after spraying on the model.
  12. '48 Ford Woody

    Beautifully done- that wood framing looks great, as does the paint. I like how your wood has highlights, subtle graining differences that accurately portray the right look while staying "in scale."
  13. I hope you are right :prepares to take more money out of wallet: Insider knowledge?
  14. I am not too hard on this kit- I've bought 5 or 6 of them over the years ;). I just wish what was in the box matched the box art, so putting that out there that there are some differences. I believe I raided another gasser kit for the original style blower scoop. There are period style wheels that can be used to backdate what comes in the box. Wish I still had the wheels from my original build.
  15. I was excited the last time this kit was re-issued, so I rushed out, paid up about $30 and started building- this was the first car kit I purchased myself as a kid back in the 70's, and in spite of some body and other inaccuracies for the '57 purist, when built up it does have a certain period gasser look (provided you are OK with big slicks protruding through modified wheel arches). My original build did not survive, but I painted it red, applied the kit decals and covered the rear windows with sponsor decals. My paintwork was pretty crappy, but it sure did look mean sitting on the table all raked with those decals. I did a few of the early 80's versions in black and lime green based on how much I liked that original kit. I scoured eBay for years hoping to find an original issue to do up like the box art, but didn't like the prices. When I got my hands on the last re-issue of this kit, intending to recreate that first building experience, there were a few things that threw me and weren't quite the way I remembered. The wheels in the kit are not the wheels in the box art from the 1976 issue, so that was disappointing. The rear edge of the hood opening was modified to be cut back all the way to the rear of the hood for later re-issues (for the purpose of clearing the big Mr. Gasket style blower intake scoop included in the last few re-issues), so that doesn't jive with the box art...I only twigged to this after painting the body of the re-issue, too late to backdate the hood opening by fabbing up a trailing edge for the rear of the hood. I was hoping to get my hands on some resin re-pops of the original wheels but there weren't any to be found, so I ended up overpaying for an original issue when one finally appeared on eBay. As much as I enjoyed the original issue of this kit, unless they fixed a few things on the latest version to allow building it as per the box art, I will probably pass. Fixing the hood is simple enough, but re-popping the wheels probably won't happen as it is a limited market and many builders today just won't care to pay up for resin wheels considering what the re-issue will cost. For the record, I paid $2.76 Canadian for the kit I bought back in '76