The Forums will be down, Friday, November 24th starting 8 AM PST for upgrade.We'll probably be down until 1PM PST, but it might be longer. I'm doing a major forum software upgrade, so I expect the forums to operate somewhat differently when we come back online.
I have had 4-5 cans of Testors paint do this over the years- the first being in the late 70's, a can of candy apple red leaking thick orange gel from the bottom of the can. Oddly enough, the can sprayed fine (I used to decant a bit and brush paint on tail lights and such) and I kept it around until almost empty. The last few leakers were disposed of, and all were enamel paints.
Haven't fished up there- saving that for retirement. I knew a few people from there growing up, have family there now (wife's side). I suspect you've popped in to Creative Zone in Terrace. I was pleasantly surprised my first visit in.
^^ this is true, for North American spec MGBs '75 and newer. They jacked them up to meet North American bumper height requirements. I had an '80 MGB for almost a decade. While I would have liked an earlier chrome bumper car, it worked out- the electronics on the last few model years were less problematic. From the looks of the Aoshima kit, that isn't a North American spec MGB (only two windshield wipers, lower ride height, RHD).
Not necessarily- some enamels intended for 1:1 automotive use could still contain thinners hotter than a hobby lacquer can withstand. Does Scale Finishes recommend a specific primer for use with their paints? Failing direction from the paint supplier, a good automotive lacquer-based primer (Duplicolor, Plastikote) would likely hold up well. Spray some test panels on a junk body with mist coats and a wet coat to see if that sorts things out.
Lacquer paints work in a specific way- they mechanically bond to the previous coat (be it the primer, or another color coat) by melting the previous coat. It looks like your wet coat was a little too hot, and that melted the primer and the plastic underneath as you waited for the solvent to gas off, allowing the grain of the bare plastic as-molded to show through into your colour coat. You could strip it and start from scratch, you could sand it and re-apply primer, or you could sand the color coat and mist on a few more light coats on top and let them cure, and then hit it with a few more mist coats plus a wet coat that hopefully won't bit into the previous coats and bring the grain of the plastic through to the surface again. Was your primer compatible with the top coat you used?