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About gman

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    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 07/04/1967

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24 1/25

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  • Location
    Vancouver BC
  • Full Name
    Greg Peters

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  1. That is beautiful! (I have been waiting for that :D)
  2. Had to revisit the real McCoy in your build thread after looking at your photos of the model, to figure out which was which- as always, you capture the essence of some pretty wild creations perfectly.
  3. I believe Jim got his hands on some new old stock. I remember the line of Testors Colors by Boyd in spray cans, bottles being available in enamel. Not all hobby shops carried the bottles, but the sprays were easy enough to find (while they lasted). I am not too surprised some were offered in acrylics- there was a shift away from VOCs for a while, with manufacturers investing in acrylic lines in trying to roll with those punches. I never saw the Boyd acrylics for sale locally, not even in the best stocked hobby shops here. I too liked a number of the Boyd colors.
  4. You have a good eye for the body lines, and some exceptional talent for bringing them to 3D fruition. That is a great looking Buick.
  5. I am a certified "kit basher," and have accumulated a number of parts kits over the years where various pieces have been pirated. I suspect you'll find a few members with a decent stash of parts here on the forum. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/forum/24-wanted/ ^^ a post in this section may yield what you are after- for free, for trade, anybody's guess.
  6. On most vehicles, there isn't just one shade and texture common to entire interiors or types of panels. Another option to add interest and variance amongst your blacks is to add overcoats (flat, semi-gloss) to appropriate parts for extra realism. Combine those with a handful of different brands/types of black, and you can have a whole bunch of different finishes appropriate for interiors, chassis, vinyl tops- whatever you plan on painting. I know you specified bottle paints, but adding a few spray cans and airbrushed blacks can vary the sheen and tint as well. Tamiya has a very nice semi-gloss black in a can, and has similar black/flat black/semi-gloss blacks in their line of acrylics. Flat black enamel can be burnished for a satin sheen after it is dry, and if done correctly can realistically simulate leathers and vinyls. A little finger oil in the burnishing process helps.
  7. Tamiya X24 Clear Yellow would do the trick. If you already have yellow food coloring and Future on hand, that would be easy enough to test on some scrap clear sprue (and would likely come off with some rubbing alcohol if the experiment doesn't work out as planned).
  8. I suppose that depends. Many years ago (now vintage kits), it wasn't unheard of to have chrome trees made up of different plastics than the majority of the sprues. Most glues used in our hobby will work either through a chemical bond (think standard model glues- liquid, tube), or a mechanical bond (think epoxy, white glue, Micro Crystal Clear, super glue, even clear enamel). Epoxy and other mechanical bonds are good for where you want to glue plated, painted or clear parts in a manner that won't affect that paint, plating or optical clarity. Chemical bonds are great where the glued seams will be sanded, puttied, primered and painted over top of the joint. Shop with that in mind, so you have a few different methods available so as not to screw up your hard work.
  9. I haven't tried Flex-I-File plast-I-weld, mostly because Tenax 7R has met my needs and has worked well. One thing I have found (as a dedicated kit basher for decades) is that there is a wide variety in the composition of model kit styrene from different manufacturers, and even from the same manufacturers over different time periods- things like plasticizers, colorants and who knows what else can affect how a solvent will affect one piece vs. another you are trying to glue together. What bonds one type may melt another and turn it into a gooey mess (I am talking to YOU, AMT circa 1989). Revell plastics from the same period varied too- some were brittle and didn't always readily bond well with liquid cement. Trying to tack together different grades of styrene works best with light applications of a hot solvent, one that is hot enough to melt both types, and yet evaporate quickly so as not to soften the plastic too much. Todays new kit plastic is less predictable still- more reactive to paints and glues than North American-sourced plastics, so a hot, fast-drying solvent in your glue, and a cooler solvent (or good barrier coat) in your paint is more important than ever.
  10. I have used Testor's liquid cement for plastic to plastic bonding, but find Tenax 7R to be much more predictable and quicker to bond/dry completely. It is also a fairly "hot" solvent that will usually work on most types of styrene. For every type of application and material, there is an adhesive best suited to the task. Liquid cements, super glues, epoxies, glues designed for clear parts- all have their places for attaching certain types of parts on a model. The trick is to know where and when to use them. For dissimilar plastics that won't bond together using a traditional liquid cement, super glue is a natural, especially if the parts are not clear, and the joint will be finished/puttied/sanded prior to painting.
  11. That is an impressive build of an impressive vehicle. You seem to have mastered the art of brush painting on this one- well done.
  12. gman

    '59 Edsel Corsair

    I agree with all of the other comments- excellent build, great paint, and a beautiful finished model.
  13. Looking very good so far. Itching to see some Boyd Red a flow'in 😉
  14. Having driven a number of these, I think your project is very cool. ^^ not my photo, but there is a very good chance I had some seat time in that one
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