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Everything posted by gman

  1. The OHC 6 engine came in the MPC (and later AMT) 69 Pontiac Firebird kits. Pretty common kit, though mine is long gone. Good luck in your search.
  2. Looking great so far (as always). Looking forward to seeing your build come together.
  3. That is a beautiful pair of AMCs. Being familiar with the 1:1s, you have done a great job on these.
  4. https://mcwfinishes.com/shop/ols/products/5605-sierra-gold-met
  5. That looks similar to a 50's General Motors shade- Sierra Gold https://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?type=sample&ditzler=21261&syear=1956&smanuf=GM&smodel=Chevrolet&sname=Sierra Gold&name=chevroletbelair1956sierragold If that is close, an online vendor who offers authentic shades in airbrush jars may be a solution.
  6. Thread from 2012, so no guarantees it is still available.
  7. It might be tough to find in scale. There are people who part out vintage JoHan kits on eBay, and a Rambler (American Motors) 232 cubic inch inline 6 from the mid-60s is the engine on which the ones in straight 6 powered Jeeps (258 cubic inches to 4.0L) was based. While some of the accessories, intake and exhaust on later Jeeps differs, the AMC mid-60's block is the same basic casting in use until 2006.
  8. I am really liking the traditional frame setup and engine so far. What are you planning for the K-member? As much as I love these Revell deuces, one thing that has always bothered me was the incorrect rear wheel well portions (on the roadster and 5 window versions of the kit). I tried to scratch up some modified masters to cast more correct replacements years ago, but never crossed the finish line. ^^ a not-so-visible body line Revell missed on a steel '32 roadster and 5 window body, likely more correct for a fibreglass body I suppose with 3D printing (which I really have to get into one day), replicating this body panel becomes less of a challenge.
  9. Shave them off, drill tiny holes. Stretch some sprue to a little thinner than the holes you have drilled, doming the cut ends in an open flame. Slip the stretched sprue into the holes (dome side on top) and secure with a drop of liquid cement from the underside.
  10. Judging by the photo, I would have to agree- very nice revisions.
  11. Simply beautiful, with nicely integrated custom touches. Excellent build.
  12. Try soaking those parts in some 99% Isopropyl alcohol. It can work with aqueous acrylic paints, as well as some acrylic lacquers (Tamiya), though it may not remove 100% of the paint.
  13. Well, when it comes time to use Mica Red again, try it over Tamiya's new(ish) red oxide primer to get a more maroon metallic tone. As you can tell with your spoon tests, the undercoat does affect how this semi-transparent paint looks in the end. 'Stude looks great BTW. I wouldn't change a thing.
  14. Improperly chroming suspension parts on 1:1 vehicles can cause something called "hydrogen embrittlement," where hydrogen gets trapped under the chrome and causes the underlying metal to fatigue and crack/break/fail without warning. There is a technique used by proper manufacturers and platers to eliminate or reduce this phenomenon, which involves heating and baking the parts after chroming to reduce stresses and restore the elasticity of the metal components to avoid failure. A "chrome job on the cheap" for suspension components carries some risk, but parts manufacturers who take this into consideration can supply reliable chrome parts that hold up for a hot rod that gets driven. That would be true for shock mounts, hair pin radius rods, axles, springs- pretty much any suspension component that needs to be strong, elastic and hold up to torsional stresses to properly do its job.
  15. That would probably take some serious doing- if you have the skills, I'd say go for it. https://mcwfinishes.com/shop/ols/products/1965-ford-fairlane-500-sports-coupe I don't know if one of these (if they ever come back in stock) would get you where you'd want to be. Another caster offered a 2d sedan as well.
  16. Having walked many miles in a moderator's shoes on another forum (unrelated to this hobby), I know it is a thankless role that can generate strong feelings on all sides. Hopefully the build thread can get back on track with no additional issues.
  17. I look forward to following your content when the dust has settled. I too had to do some digging to figure out what happened- hang in there, and don't be shy about your build thread updates. I'll be waiting to see what excellent craftmanship you've come up with next.
  18. Impressive work- love it...here is to an end to the slump!
  19. You may want to pick up some Tamiya Insignia Red and Hull Red, experiment with mixing the two to get your desired shade. It looks like Portola red has a reddish-brown component. If you want to stay with Testors, you could add some of their Leather and possibly a bit of black to the mix to dial in something closer.
  20. I have used SEM interior paints- "hot" stuff, may react with primer or unusually soft styrene.
  21. Happy to see that- looking forward to your updates.
  22. Limefire is one of my favourite 32 roadsters, so the updates to Revell's '32 sounds intriguing. Your next build does too.
  23. Well, they gave you a really fine metallic particle size, which looks right at home in 1/25th scale. Great colour. Thank you for the info.
  24. Being a Jeep guy, I am familiar with that shade- it looks great on a Jeep, and looks great on your Mopar build as well. Did you use a can of Mopar touch up spray, or was it colour matched airbrush paint? It looks like it laid down very nicely for you, and was thinking about using that colour on a :gulp: '37 Ford build in the future.
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