Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About gowjobs

  • Rank
    MCM Friend

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ventura, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

3,635 profile views
  1. Due to an apparent lack of feedback/interest, we're canceling the Gold Coast NNL (scheduled for July 12th). If anybody was planning on coming out, I apologize, but we're done. I'm tired of fighting it, and I have other stuff I can do, so... thanks for any of you guys that supported us in the past, but we're calling it off. It seems that a bunch of people are under the impression that our NNL is a contest, and that it's the same group that puts on Ventura Modelfest, which really has been panned the last few years by car modebuilders. I just don't have the time, energy or desire to fight that. Please pass this info along to anybody who may have been thinking of attending.
  2. I'd suggest starting with your base primer, and adding washes and drybrushing the wear areas to weather it out a bit: Afterward, I'd add patches of newer primer, some spotted in with no masking, and maybe one larger patch that actually looks like it's been taped out. Drill holes for missing trim, mirrors, etc. and maybe one off-color faded factory painted fender, door or tailgate to complete the patch-as-you-go appearance.
  3. Freeman Cars has a resin teardrop hood... email him at: FREEMAN CARS
  4. There was a sketchpad illustration of a Mercedes 500K drag altered in Traditional Rod & Kulture a couple of months ago... was heavy flake bronze green with a Hemi and white tonneau... awesome.
  5. I could see your point if it didn't say right on the box that the model requires glue and paint (not included) to finish it. Since it does, I think we can at least allow those items to be used in the completion of the model. Now, if we could just convince the manufacturers to add: "should use tires/wheels/engines and other sub-assemblies from other kits and/or aftermarket manufacturers," to the instruction sheet, we could enter ANYTHING in OOB. We're getting a little OT with the factory stock discussion, let me try to get us closer to our original course. Box Plus - doesn't that allow minor kitbashing, and pre-70's era detailing methods? Or am I thinking of some other class?
  6. They do, unless you grab a 1/16 scale kit that includes all the hoses/wires, etc. or a car with enough bodywork to cover some of the engine, disguising its lack of plumbing. The good news is that the Hippie Hemi does include a rubber/vinyl blower belt, clear fuel line, and a transparent oilpan to show off the crankshaft detail (the old Gartlits rail chassis). That would be REPLICA/FACTORY STOCK - not OOB. OOB is about the stock kit - REPLICA is about the stock subject vehicle.
  7. Rust-All is a water-based 4-part system that can be used to make some really realistically rusted finishes, but it takes a bit of experimentation to get exactly what you're looking for - not a problem, because there's enough in the bottles to do a BUNCH of models, and it's easily removed with an ammonia-based cleaner until you seal it. My suggestions: A quick and easy way to a basic oxidized steel look is to buy a can of Tamiya Light Gunmetal and one of Floquil Roof Brown. Mist these alternately over the parts in question until you get the look you're going for (I hold one can in each hand, and shoot from a couple of feet away). The headlight buckets on this 1/8 bucket were treated in this manner: The following were done with a base coat using this "oxidized steel" method, and then RustAll, followed by rubber cement to mask my rusty areas before I shot the "paint" over the top:
  8. At one time, I actuallly built a couple of Out-Of-Box-Custom projects. The point was to significantly modify the car without using anything that wasn't in the box to begin with. I had considered scanning/editing/reprinting the instruction sheets to show step-by-step the mods I'd made. Might be funny to do that, and enter such a build in the OOBS class to see who'd catch the joke. Here's my first OOBC, from about six years back, followed by the second, built the year thereafter: EDIT: Yeah - the iron cross decals kinda fell into the box on the '50 Ford... but everything else was made from box parts.
  9. Those few that know me here will realize how out-of-character this will be for me, but I'm about to embark on an Out-Of-Box-Stock (OOBS) build. I haven't chosen the easiest subject to do this with, but I figure the Hippie Hemi should be able to be built into a striking enough model without my usual arm-long list of modifications and kitbashed parts. With the four-piece (upper, lower and two rear wheelwell fillers) body, I'm wondering how much seam-filling I can get away with and still be legal for OOBS. My plan is to build it like a model airplane - painting the chassis/engine/interior, then installing the body around it, filling the seams, masking the openings, and then painting the body before adding the wheels, pipes, etc. to complete the model. I may be able to use only glue to seal the seams, and then sand them smooth, but how much if any filler can I use and still be OOBS? Another question - I personally have never deducted points for an OOBS build that used BMF, but what are the feelings of the board on BMF and/or flocking on an OOBS build? Are these finishes, like paint, or something out of the realm of an OOBS build? Thanks, Dave McGowan
  10. I'll be there. Keep a pot of coffee ready for me - I'm making it a turn-around trip from Ventura to Santa Clara and back so I can race the next morning.
  11. SKWIRLY 2 is looking AWESOME! Keep on keepin' on!
  12. A couple of recently re-released Aurora/Lindberg kits were bashed, with a few parts from some classic Aurora 1/32 rods thrown into the mix.
  13. Let me clarify: it's not about FINISHING the model. For me, it's about pushing through the part of modelbuilding that I really DON'T enjoy - finish bodywork and paint. I love coming up with a new concept - engineering working features and coming up with ways to replicate little details. Getting plastic glass-smooth and laying perfect paint on is like torture for me - torture that I endure to get the model done, and off my desk to make room for the next one. I have over TWO HUNDRED unfinished model projects for this very reason, and 98% of them are full of custom and kitbash work. So when I feel the weight of all those unfinished projects bearing down on me, I just build something less involved. Here are some 24-hour builds:
  14. Illustration I did at request of Hollywood Jim: Gremlin done Lil' Coffin style: Photoshop on a Rambler American HT I used to own: Bubbletop Showrod: A couple of pirate-themed rods: And some old Pen & Inks:
  • Create New...