torinobradley

I found these a while back. They are bearing cups or something for building fishing lures. They have a hole on the crack and in the bag we're the little disks from the hole. Here is a cup, lense, and disk: %5BURL=http://s153.photobucket.com/user/torinobradley/media/1966 Penske Sunoco Corvette L88/DSC01503.jpg.html]http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s223/torinobradley/1966 Penske Sunoco Corvette L88/DSC01503.jpg will have to look at those earrings next visit to HL will have to fix the link when I get home, sorry (mobile).

I actually have one of these van's in the collection... Wow!

I find this funny as most of the videos for this car show it is not going in the direction it is pointed...

I was in that mail order model club. After the first model that I got to pick, everything went to pot. I built only cars then and got Lunar Lander set (not interested at that time), commercial jet liner (not interested at that time), and I think a Viking ship (not interested at that time). After that, I just went to the hobby store and got what I wanted...

Also look for G scale railroad figures. I believe they scale to 1/22.5 which is close enough for biological accuracy. Prieser made some G scale figure kits but they are scarce, expensive and naked...

Anyone know if Wild Bills is still there? I try to go by there every time I'm in DFW. Here's there addy: 535 E Shady Grove Rd, Irving, TX (972) 438-9224

That is a cool and interesting find! Good luck with the build. I look forward to seeing this one built as mine didn't get that far... When I was young and not all that talented I was making this one into a IMSA racing van. I hollowed out the rear fenders so the wide back tires would fit up into them and narrowed the front so it would also sit down low. I also swapped the motor out with a blown hemi under a clear dome. What caused me to give in was while trying to fill the side doors, I ended up sanding off the body character line. It was boxed and still sits somewhere in the plastic graveyard. Maybe I'll drag it out and find a donor kit for a transplant. Would still make a wild ride!

Several years ago a ex-girlfiend of mine that used to build models had almost finished her Elvira and asked me how to do the makeup. She had tried just painting it and drybrushing it but it came out clownish. Not good for the Mistress of the Dark! I suggested that she actually use makeup. She did and Elvira's smokey eyes and rosy cheeks were photo-perfect. Has anyone ever used them or seen them used for weathering other scale models? I would think they would be great especially in all the different color pallets available. You could find the perfect colors for your exhaust, leather seats, grimy and stained engines, etc... The only concerns I could see are reactions with the base paint or clear coats and of course, the propensity to rub off when handled.

I have a huge list of projects but a couple of the more radicals are: Pininfarina 50's Thunderbird 32 Ford Highboy Roadster Biplane with a supercharged hemi driving the prop.

Cobra Daytona DeTomaso Pantera

Looks like the base of the car might be the Dynacorn Mustang replacement body. Modified, obviously...

Wouldn't Watanabes be better wheels? I think those vans are running them and they are available from Fujimi in the model scene.

Oh, one point of detail. '68s had black gauges while the '69s had silver and the gauge lenses were cone shaped.

I like it (see avatar)! I have a 1:1 '68 GT Formal in kit form (disassembled in the garage) I bought the Modelhaus kit to build for. I too will be watching this one for tips on when I can get to the little one. I also bought a '67 Fairlane to use for the chassis under it. I bought a '69 formal body before I found out about the '68 kit so I have that one to build too.

Anyone know how many of the chassis parts in this bird are carry-overs from the 68-69's? I have a '68 gluebomb in need of a few parts.

Do a search for "G Scale Luggage" as this is the scale most like 1/24-1/25. I believe it is actually 1/22.5. There are some available but most will probably need some repaints or figure/interior painting methods to make them look good.

A small set of numbers to replicate the engine displacements and some "C.I.D."s would be cool.

I have a closable computer armior. It has separate top and bottom doors that have drawers (bottom) or shelves (top) built in. I mounted a florescent light on top, a swivel magnafier light on the desk portion and magnetic tool strips on both door shelves. With the bottom open, my chair slides perfectly under it and with all the shelves, I keep plastic containers full of my tools and paints along with whatever kits I have been working on. Also have a corkboard area on both sides of the doors and a dry erase board for reminders, etc. After all that, I can shut and lock it to keep the kids/grandkids/animals out of my very sharp, small and delicate tools and caustic chemicals.

Okay, it's been more than a little while since I threw an update at you. Time to work on this car was in short, short supply the last few months but even so, I squirrelled away a few minutes here and there. These are the things I have more or less been working on. I saw a local contest in 2.5 months is going to be a Shelby tribute so I figured if this thing should debut at any show, that would be the one. This gives me motivation and a deadline, so maybe this one will be on the shelf soon... I worked on creating a better looking radiator for her. I started working with the doors. Previously I had thinned them more to scale, now I needed to add the missing detail like the door frame. Once it's in place and painted with a latch and working hinge, It should look pretty good. I then drilled and filed out the lower control arms to look more like the real car. I did many other little things like the lip around the hood and trunk, cleaned up the firewall which will be skinned in aluminum, thinned down the front fender wells, created the water collector/fuel log, started workin on the footwell air ventilation tubes, fuel tank, deeper rear wheels, and test fit, test fit, test fit and maybe some more test fitting... Engine bay so far And couldn't resist a wheel mock-up.

HRM (Historic Racing Miniatures) also makes some resin parts for this car. They have more detailed upper control arms and a header assembly that alleviate some of the fitting issues and of course, are cast very well. VRM (Vintage Racing Miniatures) has a wonderful pair of decal sheets for these cars as well. The good part about them is they each can do 5 cars! I have this same kit and most of the same parts as well on my bench cycle. I chose to use the clear dash from the kit rather than the photo-etched one. I wanted the dash to be more 3-D and the photoetch just didn't look right. I drilled out the guages and then sanded the back of the plate to thin it to scale. The guage faces provided on the VRM decals are so detailed, you can read the odometer and look great behind the thinned kit panel. I also chose to use the transmission from MCG that included the shift linkage and photo-etched shifter. It seemed to be better molded than the one in their GS mulit-media kit. I also got a halibrand and tire from HRM to replace that fugly spare molded with the rear frame parts so it looks much better.

Okay, It's not a long trip type car but how many of us drive under 225 miles on a daily commute and don't spend over 6 hours at our destination. It seems this car is targeted toward luxury car buyers that care about the environment, or at least want to appear as though. It's not everyones cup of tea but it is, according to CR and others, a very impressive car. CR is just saying this is the car that has gotten the highest test scores ever, according to their testing. If I remember right, this is Tesla's first ground up car as their roadster was Lotus based. For a comany to hit a home run first time at bat, that's pretty awesome!

You may have seen a '69 Talladega? The '68 and '69 Torinos had the four-pod guage dashboard and the Talladega had a nose cone on it with a flush grill. It was the car that lured Petty away from Dodge for a year or so.

And this happens often. You just have to explain to them politely that they did nothing wrong but you'd like to talk to a manager. The manager is usually the one with the authority to make the changes or offer solutions. That's what I did with Sony. It won't work every time but it's worth a try.

Technically, no. Which is why I still shop there. The ESC was in their shop brand car and had a known problem. It just seemed wrong to have a three month old $350 car that now needed a new $100 ESC. That's why I called their corporate line as it was their brand car with a known problem and only 3 months old. They understood and offered to send me the replacement unit. Now if it had lasted the better part of a year, or something with no history of going bad, I would have been okay with having to replace it. It's all about the circumstances. I had a simular issue with a TV and my PS3 and both times, they agreed to fix it because it was a known issue or flaw. The TV was 2 years out of warranty! It pays to do some research on these things and of course, be nice. I didn't play hardball or anything, just explained the situation and they did the rest.

There's good and bad with every one of them. Here in San Antonio, we have a Hobby Town, Dibbles, Hill Country Hobby, and Al's hobbies, along with a couple of others further away from me. While Hobby Town is great for the general and we usually go there most of the time, they are a large corporate entity (even though they are a franchise). Dibbles is full of good people but deal mostly with Trains and Games. Hill Country Hobby is all plastic kits and Al's is mostly RC Cars and the last few times I went there was nothing but bad experiences, so I'm done with them (which is a shame since he is the closest hobby shop to me). As for experiences, the guys at Hobby Town are fairly nice but would not replace a 3 month old faulty ESC on one of their store brand units (1 month warranty). All I needed to do was contact their parent company and a new ESC was on the way. So that experience went from bad (store said no) to good (nat'l sent the part). Other than that, I never had any issues with them. They ordered items for me and I got them in a timely manner, they fixed my son's car while the warranty was in effect at no charge and the selection of items is actually really good. I've never had an issue with Dibbles (a mom and pop place) throughout my years of patronage. The staff were always happy to see everyone and very helpful when asked questions. They would order anything they didn't have. These are people type people. Hill Country Hobby (mom and pop) is a great place, though it is small which limits it's inventory. Even still, he's got quite a selection, always has the most current kits and is willing to order anything you want. The owner is a great guy who is a modeler himself and is always willing to chat a bit. This is his retirement so he is doing what he enjoys. Al's (mom and pop) has great inventory of RC Car parts and a few other things but when I ordered parts not on their shelves, he continually missed the delivery date and every week I went in there, he said he'd have to check on it because it was supposed to be in. The last straw was waiting 15 minutes at the register to buy some paint while he handled a personal call. I ended up ordering everything I wanted him to order for me online (I hadn't paid for it yet) and had everything within the week. The long and short of it, every place is different and there are goods and bads in them all. P.S., I'm not trying to slander anyone, just telling you of my experiences.