There really aren't any pitfalls. You can assemble the lower end of the motor before installation. Lots of chrome removal or dullcoating. One aspect that gave me a few minutes of pause was the gauges. The characters are raised on the backside of the lenses. It finally dawned on me to mask the faces and shoot the backs with a thin coat of black. When this had set, I polished the high spots clear with a piece of 1200 grit, picked out the needles with orange and back-painted them with white. They came out just as good as I had hoped. The handlebars were made from an old T'rantula header, close enough diameter and it had the right curves. Clubman style bars were hot in the 70's. The air cleaners are ribbed caps from tiny craft glue tubes, painted white. I'm not revealing how I re-jetted the carbs.
It was going just fine until the same urges hit that occurred when I was riding in the 70's. Header, air cleaners and jets, handlebars. Now I'm deciding on whether or not to bob the fenders and paint them to match the tank (probably). The tank and seat aren't fastened and I've got plumbing to do. Wish the tire fit was better. This kit is typical 70's MPC. Not bad, not great. A nice couple of weekends.
There was a build review a few years ago but I can't remember which MC issue or who wrote it. Oh yeah, I wrote it, but I still can't remember which issue it was in. I do remember that it was run in black and white, which made my mostly flat light blue look like grey primer. Not a bad kit, upper tier for the time I would say.
I'm in the finishing stages with mine, wish I had seen this post first. I built mine like an airplane kit. Everything inside was finished and the body halves sealed around it. I Masked the windows and openings and shot the body. It came out pretty well but would really benefit from the Deeks cycle wheels. Does this car have any basis in realty?
Another Icon? THE Icon! Yeah, he was a little wacky but I'm going to have to throw in that he was the best known custom builder in the country for a few decades. You don't get to that point by laying low. I've been in the sign business for 30 years, vaguely similar, the shop owner always takes the credit. The Hirohata Merc may have been more Sam than George but it's my favorite Merc. Can't believe the Hollywood Reporter didn't catch the caption reading Chuck Barris instead of G.B., a little harsh. I think Chuck is still here. The man deserves more respect than that. I figure that very few of us here know the true stories. I don't, so I'm not going to slam the man post-mortem. I do remember an episode of Chop, Cut, Rebuild. They revisited the Supervan after restoration. Dan, the Host sees GB's sig on the nose and comments. The shop owner repiles "Try and stop him! I turned my back and he was signing everything!" The King of Promotion, he was really good at it. RIP, George. Thank You for the years of modeling that you made possible for me.
I Wish it had been done in the same scale as the Tamiya (1:6) so I could use the parts I have from the Tamiya original release. I still have the bag of chain links, Too fiddly for 10 year old me back in the day. I'm planning to build mine with the mods most of us made to our riceburners in the 70s. Header, lower handlebars, a mild shaving of the unnecessary parts. Rejetting the 1/8 scale carbs could be challenging.
I think the HotWheels Deora II was a new design from HWs. Foose may have had something to do with a full size realization of that car. The main design feature was that it used a Taurus wagon for the front much as the original used a Ford Station Wagon.
I had partial cans of both Red and Orange One-Coat. I would make a pass with the red and immediately make a second pass with the orange until I had what looked close. One Coat seems to be pretty tolerant of being applied wet on wet. I used the "scoopless decal under the unglued scoop so i could still drop a motor in, if I get the urge. I like this car a lot but everything looks better with a blower poking out of it. The blue and white decal halfway up the nose was the least objectionable camo for where I rubbed through the ink getting it into place. Russ, I agree with your Ranchero lament. I drove a '67 for about 10 years.
Thanks, Guys. I shot this with Testors One Coat, spraying both red and orange at the same time. I should have made one more pass with the orange. The wheel covers, scoop and hatch were done with reg Testors True Blue Pearl. reg Testors clear went over everything. Considering its age, this is a really nice kit. Panel fit was pretty good, flash was minimal and the wheels and tires are well done. One exception was the blower drive. I've never seen the rubber band approach work very well. Mine snapped after a few days, but not before causing the input shaft to droop. It isn't really a rubber band but molded in the same vinyl as the tires. I decided to use it in the AMT double dragster streamliner. I've built several of the other versions but never the full bodied car, so . . .
Well, that went about as well as could be expected. The decals are a bit on the brittle side and stuck really hard to the One-Coat I used on the body. There was no sliding, I had to lift and pull each panel into place even with a drenching of Micro Set. I've planted large decals over this paint before, the GeeTO Tiger comes to mind, and I don't recall the sticking part. It was different than the Martini Porsche decalling. Those marks turned to ink pudding under the Micro-Scale products, wrinkled horribly and then settled perfectly in place over the compound curves of the rear fenders. I think they were Cartograph. Probably my favorite decalling experience. The Cosmic Charger's took a little rubbing, massaging and prodding to conform, but reacted to the solvents just enough to work. I'll give my app an 8 out of ten this time. I did rub off a small spot of print on the nose. I shot a couple coats of standard style Testors clear from the can over it all. There was a difference in color and size between the green graphics for the side where they are supposed to butt together. And you can glue the tail section together and still get the chassis in, sliding the slicks onto the rims halfway through the process. And now I'll admit to totally cheating on this one, I actually did it curbside after deciding to keep the Imperial Hemi for something that would show it off better, probably another old rail. Pretty happy with the end result. It was great to see it back on the shelves. Must have been the longest 1/24 FE rail model ever.