Looking really good. I've noticed you doing this on other models, I like how you blend the corners of the floor into the firewall to eliminate the void. I also see what you did with the bottom of the cowl. Very clever!
The reason the brackets are on the inside is (as KK correctly surmised) to get the 'bones tucked in a bit so there wouldn't be any interference with the steering link. As it turns out, there's a mile of clearance and the brackets could have been hung on the outside. If you look close at the real car, the mounts are on the outside but the tie rod ends on the 'bones come in from behind to get them tucked in a bit, for the same reason. I ain't buildin' no replica so I ain't gonna be changin' 'em...
No, you have it right. The bones are split. It might be that the hanger brackets are attached to the inside of the frame rails that's throwing you off. Usually the brackets are on the outside or bottom so they're more obvious. I use very little aftermarket parts. Not that there is anything wrong with them (there's some really nice stuff out there!) but I just prefer to re purpose kit parts or scratch build what I need. I build this stuff for a living so re purposing and scratch building comes natural.
UPDATE! Has it really been 5 months?! Today I dug out this project and spent some quality time with it. I scratch built a V'd headlight bar out of Evergreen .042" rod and 3/32" tube which holds up a pair of AMT '36 Ford headlights. I built upper shocks mounts and shocks which was all made out of the kit parts albeit quite modified. I notched the bottom portion of the grill shell so that it sits over the frame cross member like it should. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki I also built the tough-looking shorty header tubes using pieces cut out of 2 pairs of Monogram Slingster dragster Chevy headers. It's absolute luck that they ended up fitting over, around and under the steering box and shaft perfectly. I love it when things just work out like this! Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki And what would an update be without full mock up pics? Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Still a few things left to do but this thing is getting close to fully fabricated! One more solid afternoon might be enough to finish and start getting it paint ready.
UPDATE! Been a while since I've spent any time at the workbench but had an afternoon to get at it on Labor Day. Started out by doing some body tweaks. Out back I fixed the wheel wells by adding the missing strips of material across the bottom (which is made this way to fit the fenders) because real Model A body wells come down even with the bottom of the body. The 3 reinforcement ribs are in the correct place but AMT made them recessed when they should be raised to the outside. Easy fix as I shaped some strips of .042" rod to fit into them which filled them and made them correctly raised at the same time. Hosted on Fotki I added some taillights. Now, a dedicated lakes racer wouldn't require them but the William's Bros. inspiration roadster had them because they flat-towed the car to events. There was actually a long wire harness that would reach from their tow vehicle to the taillights. The lights are from several of Revell's '32 Ford's but as they come they are really thick so I sanded them down to about half their original thickness for a more realistic appearance. Taillight placement varied from roadster to roadster with same cases having the lights mounted to each far edge of the rear body panel so I decided to do it that was despite not being a huge fan of it. Hosted on Fotki I installed the firewall and like the William's Bros. car then removed virtually all of it leaving just the perimeter to locate the hood and radiator support rods. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki A couple of weeks ago I was rummaging through an AMT '53 Ford truck kit for some other reason and found the headers for its optional Desoto Hemi had a great vintage look and would also be a perfect fit for the Red Ram in the roadster so I set them aside and they are now mounted. I really didn't like that there's no lifter valley cover detail on this engine and after some digging I found that the piece from the Oldsmobile engine in the Ed Roth Beatnik Bandit fit nice and while not totally accurate looks a heck of a lot better than nothing. I also mocked up both banks of injectors so I could get a look at the full engine. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Here's how the car looks with the mocked up engine and the firewall band in place. Tight fit but it does clear. Hosted on Fotki Inside I got the basic firewall shape roughed-in and fit. It only took two tries! Still a lot to do in here but making this part and making it fit exact was the hard part. Hosted on Fotki And some full mock ups. Here you can see that I smoothed the parting line on the cowl, filled the door handle holes, cleaned up the hood and carved the parting lines into it to separate the tops from the sides and finally properly fit a new '32 radiator shell as the one before was a butchered mock up piece. Still a lot more to do but I'm happy! Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki
Hosted on Fotki As Bill already mentioned, the Halibrand "Touring" wheels that came on Avanti's (and also available outright from the Halibrand catalog) were also available in the Revell '31 Sedan / Sedan Delivery kits over the years. They do not have correct center caps as Halibrand provided false push-in knock-off style wingnuts with them. They also don't have any lug nut detail. I'm using them on a current project hot rod and spent some time making them look better by stripping the thick plating off, installing nut detail from Grandt Line and adding the correct early wingnuts from the Halibrand wheels in Revell's Orange Crate. Here's the results! Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki
I can't repeat the expletives that I used when I texted you earlier so I'll just say that I really, really, really love it! The colors, the weathering, the minimal lettering is all perfect. I also still can't get over what a perfect find that dashboard was!
Absolutely. It's no secret that these two kits were designed to have their components interchange, those being the wheels and engines. Personally, I think that the blown Chevy and Halibrand style wheels suite the roadster more and the Buick Nailhead and steelie wheels suite the coupe more. It almost makes me want to take one each of the original copies I have and build them straight from the boxes with the exception of swapping engines and wheels (and tweaking the '32 grill from the coupe to fit on the roadster.) One thing's for sure, when the roadster and coupe are back on store shelves I'll be grabbing and handful more of each just for kit-bashing.