I absolutely agree that there is too much "air" under the car. This is a problem with channeled cars if the chassis doesn't sit low. For comparison, here's the side view of a channeled AMT '29 Roadster that I built some years back. The back of the frame is stepped several times more than the new Revell kit frame and the front axle is from the modern tool Ala Kart with the spring from the '29 Roadster stock front axle glued on top of it. The spring is really flat compared to the new kit spring. Hosted on Fotki Also, what's killing the front ride height of the new kit (both frames) is how far down the center of the front cross member is below the frame rails. Somewhat accurate for a stock '32 frame but not a Model A. It's obvious that the reason Revell did the cross member the way they did was so they could fit a reasonable sized radiator.
I've been very much anticipating seeing this version done. I really like the colors you chose for it and I'm glad you thought enough of my wheel and hubcap suggestion to give it a try. I prefer the hubcap'd side and this picture is my favorite. The rake is perfect and the car just lays-out right. Like a real hot rod I would much rather see a vintage spring under the back because the coil overs look completely out of character with the rest of the way the car is setup. Hosted on Fotki My final thoughts about the channeled version are as follows: - The Model A grill has got to go. It's just too antique-looking for the rest of the car. If this was a pre-War styled 4-banger powered car it would be fine but it's just not in the right flavor for the way the car is setup. It needs a '32 grill chopped about 1/8". - The grill and radiator are also too far forward. The grill should never be past the center line of the wheels because it makes the grill look like it's just slapped on. The huge distance between the grill and cowl is also out of proportion. - The headlights are too high and too big. The smallest lights would have been a better choice but they're still up too high. They're also too far back relative to the grill. - The windshield is too tall, especially for the channeled version. It needs to be 1/8" to 3/16" shorter. Basically, the top bar where the rear view mirror is now. It honestly looks like a well planned hot rod that the builder got in a hurry and just threw a grill and lights on at the end to make it to its first car show. Whenever I get one of these I definitely plan to build the channeled version first and correct those things I have an issue with.
I noticed that with this channeled version you decided to cut the wheel wells away from the interior side panels to install separately. Any reason you chose to do this? Perhaps some builders insight for better results after having built the first one?
The decals are a little funky but I think once the model is fully assembled they will look better. Love your color choices again, Tim! The injector set up looks killer, can't wait to see the engine finished with chrome/red valve covers. Tamiya Racing White is one of my go-to colors. The best off-white there is, IMO. I vote you use it on the wheels since you did black wheels on the hiboy version. And paint the scallops and letters on the hubcaps red to carry out the same theme as the engine!
Yes, the suspension in this kit and all of the Revell '32 series should absolutely have a panhard bar to be 1:1 accurate. Without it there is a gigantic lateral load put on the ladder bars which could ultimately fatigue and break them. The reason you can run a transverse (single across) spring with ladder bars and get away without a panhard bar is because the spring controls lateral axle loads. The spring width is shorter than the span between the shackle links so it must be stretched several inches to hook up. Being stretched puts it in tension and keeps the axle from swaying on the shackles. Same scenario for the front spring. Good thing we're only building models!
Thanks a ton for taking the time to build and photograph your roadster, Tim. This looks like a truly nice kit and I can't wait to grab a couple of them this weekend. I also think that the colors you chose look a million times better on the car than the bright orange box top version. As I look at the finished pictures I think my only complaint is that the front could sit a touch lower because the car looks absolutely level. That 6-carb Buick looks superb, too. Whatever port spacing discrepancies there may be doesn't take away from how awesome it looks (at least not in my opinion.)
I'm willing to bet that a person could use the back side of a #11 blade and the wheel well as a guide to scribe the interior side panels free from the wheel wells. That would allow the wheel well to be glued to the body and the seam filled before paint.
Thanks for putting up those real Nailhead pics, JB. Comparing the two it looks really close to me. Way to close to make a fuss over and definitely way too close to condemn the engine to the trader classifieds. Like Bill, I build hot rods for a living too and know all too well that sometimes being a perfectionist can be a curse. I don't mean this with any disrespect, but I think the port-spacing argument is getting pretty nit-picky. I mean, the engine doesn't look like anything other than a vintage Buick. Although, I'm not intimately familiar with Buick engines so maybe it's easier for me to not see the issue? Now, the port spacing on the "Chrysler" Hemi engine in the Revell '32 5-Window? Yeah, that's obviously wonky.
Reading through Tim's review again at a much slower pace and studying all of the pictures thoroughly I have to express how much I truly can't wait to get a hold of a few of these in the coming weeks. Comparing the two box models I think I like the channeled version the most. Maybe it's just the way that the builder chose to decorate it with some "patina" but it just looks tough,all business. I also think the stance is better than the '32 frame version with a proper forward rake. The '32 frame version looks like it sits totally flat which then plays tricks on the eyes making it look like the back end squats. I think I'll build the channeled one first with two modifications that will make it look even tougher: - Chopped '32 grill - Chopped windshield by an 1/8th or so.
I have a genuine original '32 Ford frame sitting 20 feet away from me as I type this and the front frame horns absolutely turn out parallel at the ends where the spreader bar attaches so (pinched or not) that detail is 100% correct.
Thank you for the outstanding photo review, Tim! I can't wait to get my hands on a few of these. For the most part I see nothing about this kit that bothers me to the point of worrying about correcting. I seriously think I will do a box-stock build up and add a great looking hot rod to my display case. The only thing that truly bothers me (and I just don't get) is why the kit designer(s) decided to add raised cradles to the rear frame rails that the axle solidly sits on. Maybe it's because the coilovers are too fragile to support the weight of the back of the model? That's just hokey as hell. Structurally it wouldn't have been a problem with a Model A or T buggy spring back there. Just sayin'...