Thanks for the feedback, Bill. Regarding your last comments, I would probably stand on that limb with you. But, like you said, the fan issue would be a deal breaker. There's no way in hell I would have used an electric in my own truck, purely because of aesthetic reasons.
And there you have it. I need to stop "talking" now cause I can't get my mouth open wide enough to get my foot in it. I'm actually a bit ignorant when it comes to 60's and 70's SBF stuff. My SBF experiences revolve around 80's and 90's Mustang's. Bill, what's your take on being able to fit a SBF into an early Ford without modifying the firewall, etc? Can it be done the same way I did my SBC swap pictured above?
Tim, That is some very interesting information that you provided. I'm not the ultimate authority on the subject but everything I have known up to this point has told me that it is not possible to fit a SBF into a '32 (or other early) Ford in the same manner in which I did the SBC. Meaning, fitted into an original vehicle and adapted to original trans. Everything I have known to this point says that the available space in the engine compartment won't accommodate a SBF, even with the most compact accessories. Close, but no cigar. Perhaps that has changed in recent years and is now a possibility? I am a bit skeptical of that 27" dimension for the crate motor. That seems really too good to be true. I've been aware of the short water pump for years. It came on 5.0L engines in '94-'95 Mustang's and '96-'00 Explorer's and probably other vehicles, too. From what I know, though, there is no standard rotation pump alternative (?) so one is locked into using a serpentine belt system. Which isn't a bad thing, but doesn't suit a traditionally styled rod very well. You are correct about the SBF (except 351W) being narrow and, in that regard, being good for use in early Model A's and also in T's where the hoods (and cowls) are considerably narrower. Not trying to stray this too far off topic but on a side note I think it's really cool that you had any kind of involvement with the Motorsport SVO group. I'm a total SVO parts / 5.0 Mustang geek. I'm stuck in the late 80's / early 90's. Below is my daily driver '87 GT. It's all original paint and one of rarest color schemes offered. It has a few Ebay-scored N.O.S. Motorsport goodies on it. Hosted on Fotki
And, another excellent reason is their size. SBC's are identical in length and width to a flathead V8 and actually weigh slightly less, stock for stock. Below is a picture under the hood of my 1932 Ford Pickup and the '66 283 SBC that now resides there. No modifications were required to the firewall, steering gear/column placement, toe board panel and a mechanical fan clears the radiator with room to spare. It uses an adapter to connect to a '32-'39 3-speed transmission so no modification to the transmission cross member, pedals, linkage, anything was necessary. The front engine "L" brackets are original 1932 Ford V8. All that is necessary to attach them to the SBC is to relocate the upper of the two engine attachment holes down 5/8". After that they bolt right on the SBC and fall right back onto the mount cushions on the front cross member. The SBC attachment holes on the front of the block are the same width and up/down location relative to the crankshaft centerline. It's too easy. The only modification necessary was to remove a 1" by 6.5" long strip from the center of the front frame cross member to clear the crankshaft damper & pulley. I did paint my Chevy engine antique Ford engine dark green! Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Previously the truck had its stock Model B 4 cylinder engine. This little 283 is completely stock and makes more than 4x the horsepower and more than double the torque. It's the difference between putting around town and cruising at 70 on the freeway. The reason more Ford small blocks (260, 289, 302, 351W) aren't used is because due to the way their timing cover is designed, even with the shortest water pump and shallowest pulleys an SBF is 4+ inches longer and physically won't fit in the available space without setting the whole engine / transmission back by that amount. It's just not practical unless you are building a rod from the ground up with a clean sheet of paper as the frame, driveline, firewall and floor will all require involved modification.
Looks like it's been almost 3 months since I updated this project! I actually haven't done a whole lot of modeling these past months (other priorities!) I did sit down one day about a month ago and do some chassis work, just didn't get around to taking pictures and sharing. A Month Ago I figures out the front shocks. I added some brackets to the inside of the split wishbones cut from some .020" plastic sheet then fit up the shocks / upper brackets from Revell's '40 Ford street rods. The top brackets fit to the frame with .040" pins. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Out back I'm using a modified Revell '37 Pickup axle and the radius rods were converted into trailing arms with shock mounting pins off of their ends. The shocks are from the new-tool Ala Kart. I still need to build upper shock mounts off of the tube cross member. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki I also built the drive shaft using the ends cut off of the new '29 Roadster kit piece with the shaft made from 3/32" tubing because it's actually round and has no ugly seams. Hosted on Fotki Today I got inspired to work on the interior. I don't really like the Ala Kart interior unit and also felt like with all the other custom work I'm doing to this model that using the kit interior would be a cop-out. I modified all of the pieces from the Revell '32 Rat Roaster. After shortening the side and rear panels in both height and length I ran a bead of .040" half-round rod around the bottom and end edges for a more finished appearance. The Rat Roaster floor was also trimmed to fit and the bucket seats had to be moved towards the center a little to fit the slightly narrower cab. Hosted on Fotki Not stopping there, I cut off the Ala Kart dash (which is part of the windshield) and narrowed a Revell '48 Ford dash to fit by removing 5/16" from its center (the width of the speaker grill on the chrome insert) bringing the two gauge pods close together. Hosted on Fotki The frame from Revell's new '29 Roadster kit is designed to have the floor pan raised up rather than right on top of the rails so I installed some 1/16" thick subrails into the bottom of the body for the trimmed floor to sit on. Hosted on Fotki As this photo shows, the trailing arm mounts stick up above the frame rails and the raised floor clears them, like with the new '29 kit. Hosted on Fotki The Ala Kart firewall got the chrome stripped off and was permanently mounted in the cowl. Hosted on Fotki That's it for now. Hope to get some more done in the near future.
There can never be enough '32 Pickups. Are those the wheels you plan to use? The Tony Nancy 22jr double dragster set from Revell features a GMC super charged Buick engine in one of the included dragsters. Besides that, that double kit is a treasure chest of kit bashing parts.
Fantastic! I enjoyed following this project and as cool as it was in stripped down form for the lakes, I really like it in full street dress. This is an excellent representation of a dual purpose roadster back in the day. It's too bad the two versions can't be displayed side by side. Maybe you can make a split picture?
It's actually a bit puzzling to me that a headlights like this weren't put into these new Model A kits. They (and they're BLC 682 counterparts without marker lights on top) are the most prominently used lights on not only vintage built hot rods but currently built traditionally styled rods. So much so that they are now being reproduced.
That reissue also has the ONLY scale set of Guide 682 headlights (one of the most popular vintage hot rod headlights of all time) available, a nice 3x2 intake and Cal Custom valve covers for SBC's (Tim's favorite engine!!!) and a nicely done Stewart Warner gauge panel (also a staple of vintage hot rodding.)