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randyc

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About randyc

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24, 1/25

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  • Location
    Mt Airy, NC
  • Full Name
    Randy Carlisle

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  1. That's a car I've never seen. Model or real. And yes Maisto can really be nice, especially with a little detailing time
  2. Shambles, those wcpd cars look so good. Jeff, like that one too. What mfr is that one?
  3. Ok, I can believe you. I don;t keep track of cost of materials used. And I know licensing is a thing now. And everything else that goes into a model. Not to mentionshipping costs, etc. I just said it seems high to me. But everything seems high to me.
  4. I've been using CorelDraw for 15 years and rarely draw anything for models. I use it at work, so making model stuff just isn't that interesting to me. But yes, I can remember learning drawing programs.
  5. If it were me, I'd probably slide the tip of my xacto knife under and edge of desired piece. Lift it carefully and postion with knife. Hold in place with finger while pulling knife tip out. With no clear carrier, that's about all I can think of. And I have losts pieces like that in the past. Or maybe use some clear tape (like you use to wrap gifts). The weaker the better. If really sticky, then I'd press it against my shirt first to lessen the stickiniess. Rub that over the transfer and pick it up. Place on model, burnish down as stated above. Maybe let it sit a few seconds for the part to stick more. Then remove the tape, being careful to not pick up part. Good luck.
  6. Since I kjnow you like 1/18 diecasts, those seem very high to me. I owned the "local hobby shop" in early to mid 2000s. Ertl 1/18s were $20 _ $30 or a little to a lot more if it were the fancy ones - The Ford Precision 100 or whatever or the 57 Chrysler. Same model is now $70 or more? for same crude castings with giant door gaps and hinges. Sunstar was probably my all around favorite then. But that is completely off subject. I agree that $25 - $30 for a kit that was originally tooled 50 years ago is completely out of line. be it because of licensing or whatever.
  7. I like to see models. Doesn't really matter what, so I say bring em on.
  8. ok, Nassau blue. Yes it is a nice replica and they are often great values. I ended up with this one because I owned a hobby shop at the time and this one was missing a spinner on one of the wheels. I was collecting 1/18 at the time as well. My only nit with 1/18 is they are sometimes crude, especially the older Ertl models. And they take up so much more space. At any given time, we have around 200 cars on display in our living room. I'm down to about 20 1/18s in all that. With 1/18s I could only get around 150 cars or less on display. I'm trying to get my collection to 1/24 or smaller except for the "must haves" - the Amercan graffiti cars, a few customs (JunkMan 51 included) and the 2 really nice Ertl's I have. the 57 chrysler 300 and 57 tbird. Funny how the nicest models come in boxes that you can't see the cars, right?
  9. Oh yeah, do you have the JUNKMAN 51 Mercury 1/18 in the movie box? Seems like that would be a great addition to your collection if not. It's a nice bright orange metallic, based on teh Amercan Graffiti kit, if memory serves. I'd havae to look at mine again to be sure.
  10. I have this ssame one in blue "poly". Not sure which blue it is supposed to represent, Lemans, Marina, etc. Just the same old medium metallic every diecast mfr has a giant tank of. I think I'm gonna sell it as I found my 65 plastic built up. Smaller, takes up less space, etc. What that said, the interior conversion is magnificent! That's almost inspriring enough to make me do that to mine! I do like the green, even if it's not a prototypical color.
  11. Oh Ben, go ahead and dive in. Just know that there are issues you will have to face. I did a thread as well, using Dann's information here, and solved issues on my own as well. Deciding how to get the ride height resolved early is very important on this kit. And if you are even considering a tire change, do it early so you have that out of the way.
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