I have a couple in kit boxes still sealed, and one I picked up in sealed bags in zip locks that had the low rider tires and wheels removed, paid $2:00 each for the bagged ones, at least one gets a small block from the '70 1/2
I have one of the two door wagon bodies I'm planning on putting on a Revell Z-16 chassis, and haven't decided yet but am thinking of using the injected 427 from the AMT '67 Impala kit for the engine since I have a flat hood for the Impala and it's destined to be a small block powered lowrider. They also produce the two door hardtop '64 Malibu non SS version, and it has the bench seat that the car I learned to drive in and did a lot of my dating in had, it was cool having a bench seat and a four speed when dating, back then our dates actually wore dresses and skirts, even for a date at the drive in, for those who are to young to know what they are, imagine the biggest flat screen TV you can, and put it in a parking lot and invite ALL your friends over to watch it from their car.
MCW has a Malibu, and a Malibu 300 both in resin. The reason I'd like a standard Malibu is that my dad bought the first Chevelle in our city, and it was a Malibu, bench seat, four speed, posi traction, 283 power pack engine, and that's the car I learned to drive in, and also did a lot of dating in that car, but I really don't want to do it in resin, but will if I have to. We also ran a couple of Chevelle bodied '55 Chevy chassised dirt stock cars, and the first one was a '64, and it was halfway through the season before someone finally figured out why ours had the driver sitting farther back in the car and still had headroom, we used a 300 sedan and when we gutted the body shell, removed all the upper door and window frames making it appear more like a hardtop, but the 300 roof didn't have the drop down in the rear of the top like the Malibu hardtops did, when we switched to a '65 Malibu hardtop body for the next season it took some creative surgery on the sides of the car in taking some of the contour away and making it a little more slab sided to still get the headroom without lowering the cage, or moving the driver but no one ever figured that one out.
any metallic color is hard to keep from having swirls in it, the snap kits AMT did in the late nineties were phenomenal with the great results they achieved, especially in the Copperhead Concept Roadster that both AMT and Revell released, it was also a phenomenon that BOTH kits matched the Boyds pearl orange spray can color so well too.
Of all the colors to pick from to mold a colored version in they had to pick RED? I thought that the deal behind molding in color was to make it easier on the beginning modelers to build, just me, but this kit wouldn't be my first pick for giving to a newbie, and the Revell snap kit is already molded in red, wish they had picked the turquoise blue that's on the artwork on the box.
I don't think that's such a bad thing, I'm in favor of the new release being the latest version, after all, if it was voted the model of the year when it was first released, it can't be that bad. __________________________________________________________________ This part should go on the post about the '50 Ford convertible remarks. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ And with the current trend to leaving little bits out of shared parts trees in new releases, they can save some plastic by leaving the gasser parts out.
I was thinking the same thing, just my strange feeling that a shoebox convertible wouldn't make a very good gasser in the first place, putting gasser parts in a kit that was originally a great custom makes about as much sense as a screen door on a submarine.
Can't blame me for trying, some people don't like the boats and just want the speed parts and the engines, but I'm trying to replicate a seventies Sanger semi-V that my brother had, it was an ex blown fuel flat bottom that had been detuned by switching from injection to carbs on the blower and adding seats for a competition ski boat, still ran the blower 55% over, and all the good internals in the 392 Hemi that was bored and stroked to 440 cubic inches, he even had the zoomies, for the occasional scare the BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH out of the lake patrol evenings, even though it sounded just as impressive to pull the muffler inserts out of the over transom exhaust. But the Hemi Hydro is just off enough in proportions to make it really rough to do, and the Hull Raiser boat is almost right but will still have to fabricate the bubble deck. Thanks for the answer, Del
I used to use this "marbelizing" style on full size paint jobs, and you can get several different patterns by using different materials for lifting the silver color, saran wrap will usually have a tighter pattern, garbage bags or heavier vinyl are a little more Marble effect, like the old table tops, and using tin foil is a lot larger areas of pure,color, on models and radio control cars I've used the same thing I did on real cars that gave me more time to work the silver, I used a chrome silver enamel with a little mineral spirits to slow down the drying time. I would let the silver then tack up and cover with a light coat of clear to seal it off before letting it dry overnight then you can use lacquer based candies or toners for the color coats. Using the slower drying silver allows more time for working the pattern to keep it looking more even, I've done complete van sides using this method without having to spray the silver several times in different areas to keep it wet enough to work, the enamel will let you get a complete area sprayed out and will still be wet enough to work for a considerable time, and the really cool part is if you don't like the pattern, using some mineral spirits and a rag you can wipe it off and start over the without damaging the base if you use lacquer for your base color.