If you use the six from the 1960 Chevrolet pickup kit, and use the 150 three speed trans, you'll have everything except the proper air cleaner, but that shouldn't be to hard between the '51 Bel-Air one, and the Chevy pickup kits from AMT and Revell, ('41, '50, '60) you should get enough parts to fab one up that can fool most people. Or use a small air cleaner from a two four barrel carb set up as an aftermarket one. Those are tips for someone that might want to build a grocery getter too. You did an excellent build on yours but didn't give any particulars.
they were sold as both '32s, and '33s but are actually '32s, as back then Chevrolet used the previous year front sheet metal from passenger vehicles on the current year light commercial vehicles. If you can get them, the '37 Chevy, all the '51 Bel-Air kits, and the '60 Chevy pickup kit all have six cylinder engines that will be correct for that, Chevrolet didn't change any of the external appearance until '63, except for a valve cover design in '55.
Very nice, really like how the front axle assembly came out and the Olds motor is perfect, along with adding the transverse rear spring, and I know it's one of those things you didn't notice until you took the pictures, but the rear end center section is in upside down, in the new style gear sets the pinion gear is below the center of the ring gear for a couple of reasons, the hypoid style gears are much quieter, and it allows for a lower floor pan and still have travel clearance. Keep up your innovative building, it's great.
Nice job, and it's one of the best two colors for a '32 coupe, the other one is black. But my favorite is the red, really excellent job, and if anyone figures out how to keep the pesky headlight lenses from moving magically after we glue them in place,,, please let the rest of us in on the secret. 😉
One key point in using the enamel paints is a very light mist coat for the first coat and allow it to dry enough so that if you touch next to the body on whatever you use for a stand that the surface is sticky but doesn't transfer any paint to your finger, and use several light coats, allowing time to tack up between coats, you will also get better results by heating the can in a sink or small pan with straight hot water from the tap, remove the can and shake it well a couple of times until the can stays warm to the touch. This will help build a little more pressure in the can atomizing the paint better, and the warm enamel will flow out much better and have a deeper shine. Using heated enamel paints is an old trick from painting full size cars, we could use less reducer and the paint would have less orange peel with everything else being the same. Oh yeah almost forgot, be especially careful about getting water around the top of the can when warming up the paint, I use a paper towel in a point to wick out all I can, then blow it out, using my own air will usually get it all, but I still run a second piece of towel around it just to make sure. Or you can use compressed air, either from a compressor, or the canned stuff for cleaning electronics, it works good for even blowing dust off the model before painting, even with a tack cloth there seems to be that one pesky dust speck that hides somewhere until you get almost through the first coat then it will blow out onto the body, usually in the most conspicuous spot.
they did build some 350 cars, when I had my body shop, in '79, a young woman came in with her V-8 Monza, that had a 350 and a Saginaw 4 speed, she was extremely upset with the local dealership because they had been trying to buy it back claiming Chevrolet was recalling the ones that were built with a 350 and a manual transmission. When she refused to "sell" it back she said that they would no longer due any service on it since it would be a liability problem for them to work on a car that had been recalled. I never actually got to see any of the paperwork she said she had, but I did see and drive the car when I was doing some paint work on it and can tell you that with the little 13 inch bias ply tires and the manual transmission it was a real smoke machine in just about any gear at any time, I can see why GM wouldn't want to many of the cars in the unsuspecting, and unqualified hands of the general public.
It used to sit in a display case at Pegasus Hobbies in Montclair CA. I read a description of it in I think that other magazines contest issue, and if my fading memory is correct it used the front of the extra body (the Ala Kart) from the later release kit, and the rear of the '27 tub from the touring T release, and a composite of the touring top and the Ala Kart top.
I owned Pinto's from September of '72 when I bought a 7 month old repo from the dealer for $1,680, try doing that today, that was the quickest four cylinder in our area, with a Geraghty dyno tune kit Sanderson headers, a 2 1/2" exhaust with a turbo muffler, and an adjustment to the stock timing pulley on the cam it surprised a lot of V-8's in the area, I built one 302 Runabout, that was fun to drive, and was a sleeper with the only giveaway being the two exhaust pipes coming out the right side of the back, but the most fun one was a '74 that we pulled the V-6 from my '74 Mustang II and put it into the Pinto that was 1,000 lbs. lighter, oh yeah, I forgot to say that it was built by a local engine builder, and was almost 400 horsepower, and was the only engine I ever had that would pull past 7,500 rpm in 4th gear and was still gaining speed when my testosterone levels started running low, and I started running out of straight and clear freeway too.
I'd always wanted one of these but just couldn't justify the price they were going for, but was lucky enough to be in our local plastic pusher's shop when the Revell kit came in and finally got one for less than $25 including tax. Now all I need is to get motivated enough to build it before I start robbing it for parts.