A problem with paint from a primer coat is a preparation problem, not a problem with the paint itself, I see a lot of people who use the idea that prepping primer for a finish coat with super fine polishing cloth is the route to a perfect finish, I've seen some excellent finishes, but you are asking for a problem, it's like putting paint on polished plastic, it's often problematic down the line, using a slightly slower thinner and lower air pressure is the way to smooth lacquer finishes. As a retired painter I will tell you a very expert show car painter taught me to get a great finish to thin the paint a little thinner than usual and apply many coats using between 18-20 psi at the gun, just enough to get the paint out without spitting,and sand the orange peel off every other coat using no finer than 1000 grit wet paper. And this has resulted in some excellent show winning paint jobs. So I don't think it's to far off.
You can use the Pegasus 15" chrome reverse wheels with narrow whitewalls, or mount the tires backwards for a blackwall look, or for something different you could use the big and little tires from the McDonald's issue 1/24 '32 Ford Roadster from Monogram, it has chrome wheels with smoothie baby moon hubcaps, they also came in the Beach boys Rockin' deuce coupe, the wheels and engine trim parts are about the only good parts from that kit. Or the Pegasus Sovereigns, or cross bar hubcaps and tires are a couple of other usable idea's, and with the Pegasus tires and wheels you can get it down in the weeds very easily and it will appear time period correct, even the chromes and baby moons would be time period correct.
They were re-released in a Millennium issue in 2000, and are available fairly reasonably, even some of the larger hobby warehouse type outlets have some left in stock, I picked up a few off eBay for less than msrp, including shipping, one of these days I'll drag a couple out and build them, at least one will be on the Revell chassis, just maybe two, one on the convertible street rod, and one on the '40 standard, I hope to build one four door as a memorial to a friend who built a beautiful four door deluxe street rod in full size.
I have a couple in kit boxes still sealed, and one I picked up in sealed bags in zip locks that had the low rider tires and wheels removed, paid $2:00 each for the bagged ones, at least one gets a small block from the '70 1/2 Camaro kit.
I have one of the two door wagon bodies I'm planning on putting on a Revell Z-16 chassis, and haven't decided yet but am thinking of using the injected 427 from the AMT '67 Impala kit for the engine since I have a flat hood for the Impala and it's destined to be a small block powered lowrider. They also produce the two door hardtop '64 Malibu non SS version, and it has the bench seat that the car I learned to drive in and did a lot of my dating in had, it was cool having a bench seat and a four speed when dating, back then our dates actually wore dresses and skirts, even for a date at the drive in, for those who are to young to know what they are, imagine the biggest flat screen TV you can, and put it in a parking lot and invite ALL your friends over to watch it from their car.
MCW has a Malibu, and a Malibu 300 both in resin. The reason I'd like a standard Malibu is that my dad bought the first Chevelle in our city, and it was a Malibu, bench seat, four speed, posi traction, 283 power pack engine, and that's the car I learned to drive in, and also did a lot of dating in that car, but I really don't want to do it in resin, but will if I have to. We also ran a couple of Chevelle bodied '55 Chevy chassised dirt stock cars, and the first one was a '64, and it was halfway through the season before someone finally figured out why ours had the driver sitting farther back in the car and still had headroom, we used a 300 sedan and when we gutted the body shell, removed all the upper door and window frames making it appear more like a hardtop, but the 300 roof didn't have the drop down in the rear of the top like the Malibu hardtops did, when we switched to a '65 Malibu hardtop body for the next season it took some creative surgery on the sides of the car in taking some of the contour away and making it a little more slab sided to still get the headroom without lowering the cage, or moving the driver but no one ever figured that one out.
any metallic color is hard to keep from having swirls in it, the snap kits AMT did in the late nineties were phenomenal with the great results they achieved, especially in the Copperhead Concept Roadster that both AMT and Revell released, it was also a phenomenon that BOTH kits matched the Boyds pearl orange spray can color so well too.
Of all the colors to pick from to mold a colored version in they had to pick RED? I thought that the deal behind molding in color was to make it easier on the beginning modelers to build, just me, but this kit wouldn't be my first pick for giving to a newbie, and the Revell snap kit is already molded in red, wish they had picked the turquoise blue that's on the artwork on the box.
I don't think that's such a bad thing, I'm in favor of the new release being the latest version, after all, if it was voted the model of the year when it was first released, it can't be that bad. __________________________________________________________________ This part should go on the post about the '50 Ford convertible remarks. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ And with the current trend to leaving little bits out of shared parts trees in new releases, they can save some plastic by leaving the gasser parts out.