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Everything posted by horsepower

  1. Looking really nice, the only thing I think I would have done differently was use the front fender wheel openings, with the way the body is shaped it would have taken a straight cut in front of the opening and another at the rear. What do you have planned for the interior? I am using an interior from one of the Boyds kits for the bucket and modifying the door panels to fit together with the stock ones for a different really custom appearance. I haven't decided yet but I'm leaning on a '55 or '56 car dash and maybe the seat from the AMT '62 Pontiac Custom version (front or back which ever one fits the sectioned body best) but if that isn't feasible I have a lot of fancy bucket seats and with a little plastic sheet even a full length center console ala Corvette style can be built with saw marks to simulate where the different lids would be and there are a couple of custom dash inserts with gauges that would work great in the front part of a console and would be different, especially if I put some dark tinted clear plastic in the gauges on the dash to look like a digital dash with the lights and ignition off. Keep the good job it's going to be a real head turner when it's done.
  2. I worked for a construction company after I closed my body shop and he had all Ford pickups starting in 1978, except for his wifes personal truck and one that had been his family vehicle, those were both '72's. The one that had been his family vehicle was involved in an argument with a deer early one morning and when we repaired it I changed it into a '78 clone by swapping out the grille and various bolt on pieces that were simple bolt on things and after painting it in the company colors he was so happy with it that we did the same thing to his wife's truck, except there was only a couple of small parts that needed painting since it was already the right color scheme. (He had ordered all the '78's in that color scheme because he really liked the looks of it) I guess what I'm curious about is couldn't the same thing be done with the Moebius kits since the two trucks we did the "remodel" on were both '72's.
  3. This pink is pretty close to the one Ford had in '56, I seem to remember it being Circus Pink or something like that. A high school kid in our town had a '56 Crown Vic with the tinted Plexiglas roof and it was this pink and a pure white. As was the trend then it had the name "Pink Angel" on the lower panel of the front fenders just in front of the doors, it was accompanying a small figure of a "Tinker Bell" looking figure dressed in pink with feathered wings.The
  4. Got a good start on it and it looks like it's gonna be a great build. But maybe you weren't paying close attention when you stuck the tires on but I think you have the front and rear ones switched, the fronts are a little smaller in diameter and width than the rears.
  5. Use clay you harden by baking pressed into the kit windshield from the rear and you can use it for a mold to pull thermal plastic over it or in a vacu-form of some kind and you should have a windshield that is the right size and the thinner plastic will look a lot more true to scale.
  6. Love it! I remember my cousin built an original way back in '63 and it reminds me a lot of that build but he put whitewalls on the stock A tires and put the speed equipment on the little four banger. I got a lot of ideas from yours but I'm going with a set of later style exhaust manifolds that are rear dumps and the rear axle from the double dragster kit and a dropped axle from the Revell Rat Roaster '32 Ford roadster and the complete engine from the Tweedy Pie six carbs and all.I like your colors but I just have to go a little more show, so a base of Tamiya Red Metallic with a transparent red mid coat and a couple of good coats of Wet Look clear and the wire wheels and triple white sidewall tires far from the AMT Buick Riviera.
  7. That part you're asking about is the TFI module, the letters FRI stand for Thin Film Ignition. On vehicles with conventional distributors it mounts on the side of the distributor body.
  8. I sure hope that they do good enough for other ones to hit the market. I'd sure like to see the roadster chassis kits hit the market and the Fiat and Bantam bodies would be nice too. It's just that there are so many things that unless you're in your late '60,or your '70s you have never actually seen them and there are still some I've seen when they were new but haven't had them in my hands but the buick would work for a vintage dragster with the injection from the original '29 roadster kit from revell. Even some of us oval guys would like to get their hands on a few different things. There was a local driver that raced a Buick powered sprint car I'd to build a replica of.
  9. Welll.....They do call those plastic "boxes" shipping crates.😂
  10. I'd like to see a '40 Model 120 series sedan, I did the body and paint on one and changed the rear of the roof and rear doors and drip rails to be a copy of the 180 series sedan for a guy who used to build Street Rods in our area. The car was covered in Street Rodder Magazine in 1979-'80, and the builder has relocated to Idaho.
  11. Check "topgaskz"Ebay seller he has had a few sets of those on his site. I have been warned about drooling over his listings by the wife. She hates having to pack in the boxes.
  12. horsepower


    If you are still looking for tires for a Dirt Street Stock there are some available on Ebay, they're molded resin but are grooved, there is a seller that has takeoffs from the ADC Die Cast late models and IMCA type dirt modifieds, those are probably perfect and they have American Racer, or Hoosier markings on them and come complete with the correct wheels already mounted.
  13. horsepower

    LS7 engine

    I'd pick up the AMT ZL-1 Camaro kit it's got a nice engine and manual trans. But in my opinion ZO-6 C-7 Corvette is the best LS engine that is available the best looking and detail, not to mention the supercharger, and using a razor saw to remove the kit clutch housing from the block and any of the Chevrolet bellhousing/transmission combinations will fit the block but I think that the Mustang GT 500OR kit from Revell has the best transmission but you can find a nice six speed manual that the only thing that the engine isn't as in demand in the general population (but I have a couple of gen II Corvettes that need that complete package, six speed and original SBC) that is available in the '93-'95 Camaro/Firebird kits from AMT. But remember, this bellhousing and tranny go right on back of the late LS series engines, just a tip but after carefully sawing the engine and trans apart I like to use liquid glue to glue a piece of .020 plastic on the front of it and trim and file it to match. This will put back the material removed by the saw if you put a good amount of the liquid glue so there won't be a visible separation line.
  14. I was thinking it looks like an early test for using a spray chrome technique. Too bad it didn't catch on, maybe it was a combination of cost and time that killed it. But it would be interesting to hear the story behind it, how about it any of the old Revell execs hanging around the thread?
  15. The Beatnik Bandit OK was built mainly By Ed's son, but that kit has a lot of good parts swapping items in it, the LT motor first and it has one item that as far as I know is the only place to get a nice scale representation of and that's the nice frame that the front section and suspension is the very popular with rodders Mustang II/Pinto front suspension. Now that AMT has reissued one of the Pinto kits I am in need of another one to build an engine compartment that has good detail instead of looking like something cobbled together by a prop crew for a victim of a bad auto accident.
  16. That was built, and was owned for quite a while by Dennis Varnie(?) There was a good article in one of the full scale car magazines, as well as a test drive with Dennis Gage on his show and even made it on one of the American Hot Rod episodes with Boyd in the passenger seat.
  17. Let's see some more pics with details😲. That is just plain and unusual punishment, showing us that without a link to where we can see more of it.
  18. It would really make me happy if they were to reissue the Street Rod version, it's getting hard to find the front dropped axle out of it, and/or the one from the '55 street version. They're both fairly good examples of a dropped forged front axle and even though it's old school unless you're building it as a lowrider version it's still easier than putting the Camaro front clips on. Even if I did buy a half dozen of those clips from either of the '70-1/2 versions.
  19. The current chassis are all identical to the point that the majority of the parts and pieces are pre cut and have a chip that has to be in place during tech, and yes they do run a reader over all of them to make sure. And EVERY chassis has to be taken to the NASCAR tech site to be checked to make sure it's built exactly as the rules state and it HAS to be done before the body is even started to mount on the chassis NASCAR issues each and every chassis an ID plate with a number that corresponds to the inspection and if it is repaired that requires replacement of parts it has to return to NASCAR's tech shed and they pull up all of the information that was put in on the original inspection it better match exactly or it is likely going to be confiscated and the team will get a pretty substantial fine for unapproved changes to the chassis.
  20. Me too, but I start by using the white school glue we used to glue the main parts to the chassis then when you get the cage all finished set it in some warm water that just cover the floor pan and the white glue will dissolve leaving the cage much easier to get all the surfaces covered AND you know it's gonna fit the way it should since you assembled it all together just like the instructions show (but they don't know about the white glue trick. Just remember to NOT use the bottle of white glue in your coffee, it might look like heavy cream but the taste is a little bit off.😆😉
  21. Back then the "Grand National" cars were allowed to run bodies that were in a three year period of production that ended with the current model year.
  22. There is usually a piece of tubing that runs from the upper right front corner of the cage and meets up with that stiffener that goes down to (through actually) the floor pan and is supposed to meet up with the X member in the chassis under the floor pan.
  23. I've sawed the original axle from the front spindle and found a piece of sprue runner or rod that fit in the wheel then after cutting it to the right length drilled through it and the spindle that will let you press a straight pin through. I epoxy the pin in place putting it in from the inside of the spindle so the head of the pin goes against the backside of the spindle upright for a little more strength then coat the pin and the mating end of the replacement axle and push it on the pin and against the upright as tight as possible and usually use an alligator clip as a clamp to hold it in place then using a good set of snips or if you have a Dremel use a cut-off wheel to make a smoother cut. By doing some creative sanding to the end of your replacement axle on the surface where it meets the upright it's really easy to put some camber in the front suspension! Also and the pin makes it stronger than the original. For the rear its even easier, just shorten the springs on a NASCAR type suspension, or with leaf springs just move the rear (or both) ends of the springs to a higher on the frame mounting point, and in the rear of the springs just make a little longer shackle (don't forget to reverse the way it mounts) that was the way we did it waaaay back to even lower our street cars. And there's always the old lowering block between the springs and axle housing with springs that mount under the gear housing. You have a good job going on a popular project.
  24. Alan, you can get flooring for a 1/12 scale dollhouse that is real wood strips on a thin carrier material and it is in strips about 3/16" to 1/4" and you can remove the ones you want and the individual "boards" are in varying length just like a real house. I bought a 9"x12" sheet for a wooden floor in a pickup bed because they can be aged to look like the ones in old Chevy trucks.
  25. How complete is the Revell '56 Chevrolet Bel-Air you have and are you interested in getting rid of it? I'm wanting to build a model of my first car and that is the only Bel-Air sedan that was ever released. I do have a pretty decent collection of kits, maybe I have something you're looking for? Thanks for your answer, Del.

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. horsepower


      Sorry for taking so long to back to you. I have been having some real problems physically for awhile now and don't get to get on here every day like I used to. I am kinda in a bad position right now, we have had our only vehicle totaled in an accident in June, (one of the reasons for my physical problems) and money is short and the best I could do would be $50 with shipping costs to 96003 zip code. Thanks for your reply even though I wasn't as quick I do appreciate your response. I understand about your reason for not trading, I have a 20x40 shop that is filled with my model cars and a few control line airplanes. My wife keeps saying I have around 1500 or more kits why don't I start building them instead of buying new ones. Wives, why can't they get it!😉

    3. George Bojaciuk

      George Bojaciuk

      I decided to keep and build it. Being that the kit is like new.

    4. horsepower


      Cool, not a problem at all, I do have a couple of others that still have the chrome I need left on the tree. But I haven't decided if I want to build the original kit or just smooth off one of the Del Ray kits and put the Bel-Air trim on it. If I do that I will probably strip the chrome and glue it to the new release and just foil over them after paint. The only thing left to find is a set of 14" Chrome wheels for the front. Thanks for getting back to me, I do appreciate it. Del

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