horsepower
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Posts posted by horsepower
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On 5/15/2023 at 5:58 AM, dwc43 said:
Just so you know, for future builds, fuel lines and vents and roll over valves are mounted on top of the fuel cell. Some pickups have floaters which look like wings on the fuel pick up and it floats on the fuel to keep the pickup covered. Some cells have dams on the right side that holds fuel so it won't uncover the pickup and most pickups are in the RR of the cell too. On that pic I sent you, the left side has a washable steel screen filter in it on that leads to an electric fuel pump which is illegal on circle track cars. It won't shut off when the engine dies, so it can start a fire. On the right side you see a rollover valve with a vent hose. Most of those should go straight up and have an S or a line looped to prevent fuel and dirt from getting to each other. The filler is the red cap in the middle. Most of those can be changed out to allow for a filler tube, think nascar type cells. Hope that helps. Great build too.
Those little "wings" on the pick ups are actually pieces of plate that sit flat on the bottom of the fuel cell and the wings are shaped to perfectly fit in the corner of the cell and it spaces the pick up just off the bottom of the cell and right in (usually the right rear) corner of the cell and its weight along with the weight of the foam in the cell keeps it in the right position so it should be really hard to get it uncovered, plus some build a small can like shape with a trap door that will allow fuel to flow in but will close keeping it there for a little reserve.
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On 5/27/2023 at 6:46 PM, mrm said:
I love what you have done so far. Definitely the right choice of a powerplant, keeping it in step with today's trends. This body just begs for a two tone paint job and I think you made a great choice for the colors. I just think it will give it a little more attitude and bring the truck more up to date if you go with slightly bigger more modern wheel/tire combo. The Foose truck may be a good source.
These are the American Torque Thrust 18" fronts and 19" rears that have been optional in quite a few of the Revell/Monogram releases through the years. I believe the first I saw them was either the Alternomad, or the Vett'Agin(?) kits, they were also offered in q '59 Corvette kit and since I have always been a sucker for the Torque Thrust wheels I pick up just about every set I can get, personally I think they are perfect for this build.
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On 6/3/2023 at 5:34 AM, David G. said:
I'm sure they won't go to waste.
David G.
Saw a couple of them in half and use them as stands under the tires on one side and over a mirror to show off the under side of your show car. All you need to make it perfect is Southern Comfort or Jack Daniels decals and some cases of bottles to display with it.😁😉
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18 hours ago, mk11 said:
Good point about the licensing; I was referring to your catch of his comment about the 'Ford small block' in the kit. In light of Charger 'whaletails' and D150's with 4 cylinder engines, among other booboos, it seems Round 2 marketing could use some help with fact checking
Like the Pinto's with a 1200 cc engine, when they were never offered with one even in its infancy it was the English Ford 1600 cc engine that was in the engine bay. Sadly the best power plant that was offered in '71 - '73 Pinto's the German designed and built 2000 cc four cylinder was never acknowledged on the box advertising.
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Beautiful job! I was curious about the Offy because I saw a very nice 1:1 scale '27 track T at a car show a couple of years back and have wanted to do something kinda like it and your build just poked at the coals and got the fire goin' again.
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I was thinking about building a '41 Plymouth Panel delivery for a good friend of mine and was thinking about something different for power and was curious about what kits were released with one of those as an option (or only choice). I know there are a couple of trick 3D printed ones out there but I would like to do it with kit choices but would like to know what kits to dig out without having to go through every Mopar kit in my stash, that would truly be a time consuming task especially goin' into 100° temps starting next week. TIA, I know I will get answers.
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On 4/24/2023 at 11:54 AM, tim boyd said:
I do not know if the blower will make the Round 2 kit or not, but in any case, Replicas and Miniatures offers the entire blower setup in their catalog....TB
If not I bet the smaller one from the '57 Ford NASCAR kit will be adaptable, maybe even the entire 312 Y block will work, I am thinking that to keep it vintage appearing that the chrome T-bird engine from the old '34 pickup kit might be a good idea.
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On 5/10/2023 at 7:21 PM, Kit Karson said:
An outstanding number of '29 Roadsters were on the table behind the Slice & Dice Duo...
Like the injected Lincoln V-12, I remember one of my friends in grade school had an older brother that ran one of engines in a dirt track super modified against the Chevy small blocks, didn't win anything but it sure sounded different and was a great crowd favorite.
I'm curious about that lavender Roadster on the turntable, what kind of engine is in that? It almost looks like an Offy, or heaven forbid a Jag.... in a Model A??😉
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Nice restoration! But you could sand the glue spot from the roof warning light off and spray just the roof in Tamiya Racing White (it's really close to the old Ford standby Wimbledon White) and it would still look correct. You could even probably do just the top surfaces from the normal two tone break line, but that's too much like work for me to do on a nice truck like this one.
You never said if this is a recent Moebius kit or one of the original AMT annuals from my younger years. I remember when I was around 12-13 years old that a cousin I was spending the summer with built one and painted it with the AMT lacquer in a Kandy Apple Red over a Gold base, it was really beautiful for a junior builder.
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In all of the deals that Round2 did with Lindberg, Polar Lights etc. I know that they ended up with at least a couple of the Testors/Lindberg kits i.e. the Smoothster and the Vanagon, and didn't they also get the custom Chopped Coupe with the '38 Special style nose? What I was curious about is what happened to the Aluma Coupe, Chezoom, and with all the excitement over the OBS Chevrolet pickup kits also from Round2 where is the Boyds Shop truck that was also the Eddie Van Halen truck? True it's a 1/24th kit but still has some possibilities for a builder what with the 1/24th releases of the square body Chevys there's some engine and running gear parts out there for an industrious builder. And there were full detail AND Quick Builder versions of most of those Boyds kits that would provide some nice parts and pieces the custom fans and that Chezoom Full Detail chassis has some real possibilities for making other earlier model shoebox era cars into some high tech Street Customs or Pro Touring builds. If only they could be drug out of the shadows and dusty storage bins and cut loose. Maybe they would even be of interest to someone like Atlantis if Round2 is kinda iffy on whether or not they would sell.
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On our Pro4 mini stock we never seemed to have an overheating problem except a couple of times when we really had it sealed off for qualifying and they took six or eight cars at a time to the center of the figure eight track (Saugus Speedway in Southern California) and it was our first time there and the driver forgot about it being all taped up and sat there letting it idle and by the time he qualified (4th) and rolled back into the pits it was up to around 230° it hadn't over filled our recovery container that I had built with a 18" piece of 2" plated brass sink drain tube with a tight fitting freeze plug that was also brass soldered to the bottom to seal it off and a top for a radiator that we could put a twist on cap on and a fitting from that for the overflow if it ever got totally full enough so the water could be plumbed to the bottom of the windshield so the driver and crew would see it was pumping water out of the overflow, but we had a feed tube that came from the radiator overflow and into the tank and went all the way to 1/4" from the bottom so that it could still let the radiator overflow but it went into the tank and then when it cooled down the radiator would form a vacuum and pull water back from the overflow/recovery tank and into the radiator refilling it to its cool level. When qualifying had finished and he made it back to the pits you could hear water going into the overflow tank and it was boiling in there like a witches cauldron but hadn't started to push any water out so I untaped the grille and sprayed cool water onto the radiator cooling fins and when it stopped boiling let it sit and by the time the dash lined up the temperature was back to just below 180° perfect and we did win the dash and finished 4th in the A surprising a few of the other teams because we had never seen the track before and the water never exceeded 200° the rest of the night and my Mickey Mouse recovery tank was still on the car when it was sold years later.
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On 4/16/2023 at 8:13 PM, CabDriver said:
Thank you sir! I’d like to build the whole set, and then forward date them somewhat too and make something more like they were running in the 80s. So many projects in my queue (and the more I research ONE project, the more new ideas I get…)
Thank YOU too!
Another update, seeing as I’ve been kinda bad about posting updates…I’m kinda in that ‘primer and paint’ stage where nothing is really getting BUILT right now, but I made SOME progress anyway…Got the engine components painted in various metal finishes, plus some of the suspension components…
…and then gave all the mechanical bits a blackwash. I’m going for used-but-not-ruined as my weathering ethos on this…just a nice clean well-maintained car that has maybe just been refreshed a little for a fresh season at the track:
The intake manifold is amongst the more complex parts on the engine in terms of adding detail - drilled out all the molded-in holes and replaced them with 3D printed nuts and bolts:
Those washes really help bring out some detail in these parts, especially coupled with a lighter colored fastener…
I spun up some parts on the lathe and used some aftermarket pulleys to start dressing this thing up…plenty left to do still but I’m kinda building this as I go so I don’t lose any crucial tiny pieces 🤪
Shot the carb too - need to make a plate to mount it to the intake and then figure out all the details THAT will have added to it:
Got the frame in color:
And then hit it with some clear (and got WAY nicer of a finish than I really need…but this too will be getting some light weathering):
I decided that kit radiator was a good enough starting point for some additional detail, so I added a filler neck, hose in/outs and then shot it all Testor’s enamel black for that glossy-enamel look that radiators seem to always have - I should probably figure out a catch-can for it too, although I’m not sure if those were required by most tracks in the era when this would’ve raced:
And finally, I did a little filler work on the body to get it smooth and hit it with primer…
…and then, having turned it from white to gray I immediately then turned it back to white again as a base for the rest of the paintjob:
MOST of these cars didn’t have super complex paintjobs, but some were nicer than others anyway - I’ll be going for the ‘nicer than others’ option but still shooting for something period correct…
And that’s where I’m at so far…oh, and I still didn’t finish the wheels, but I got them painted and in clear anyway 🤪
Thanks for looking - more soon, soon as I’ve done more!
Back in that time period all asphalt tracks required an overflow for the radiator and it was a loosely worded and enforced rule with them ranging from a metal tube into one of the front header tubes down enough that it couldn't run back into the exhaust port, the idea of this is the hot water would be basically steam and when it hit the much hotter exhaust it would turn to pure steam that theoretically would evaporate before hitting the track surface, but it had a bad effect at some places with a jumpy flagman who when seeing the big cloud for the first time would jump to the conclusion that it was oil from a damaged piston working its way through the exhaust and onto the track and would throw a yellow flag AND the black flag for the presumably offending car. One of the other favorites was to run the overflow hose into a frame rail and put a drain hole in the lower rear of the same rail that would usually allow any steam or hot water to condense and leak slowly out of the frame not being noticed by other racers, but it had a very dangerous side effect of causing the frame tubing to rust on the inside where it couldn't be seen, I have seen one of these cars literally fold up like an accordion when involved in a front collision with a dirt crash barrier. Another one was to put a gallon can in the interior of the car and put an overflow from it onto the floor of the car so it could be seen by the driver, I've also seen two of these fail, one resulting in some serious injuries the first was a gallon paint thinner can when it was built using the screw on lid and a half inch tube soldered into it as the overflow but with little thought as to any kind of an outlet just drilled an 1/8" hole in the top to allow it to vent, what wasn't considered was what would happen if it were to start really overheating filling the metal container faster than it could vent out that tiny little hole, well when the one gallon can grew to around a two gallon can and then decided to make a better vent by popping the top of the can open it really got the drivers attention, luckily it was on the other side of the car behind the driver when it failed. Unfortunately the other instance wasn't quite as lucky when the crew decided that an anti freeze bottle would make a perfect overflow container and would be easy to pour back into the cooling system if needed. But what nobody again thought about was what would happen to a plastic bottle that was filling with extremely hot water and steam, you guessed it exploded and this time it was just inside the firewall right across from the driver and resulted in serious second degree burns to about 40% of his body from the waist up and he was wearing an open face helmet and received some serious burns to his face also, and even the best firesuit has no protection from a hot fluid burn, in fact it can and will hold the hot water into contact longer with the skin. This happened to a driver who has recently retired but at the time was around 17 years old and I bet if you asked him today that Craig Raudman will still remember that night.
Also in around 1969 Stock Car Racing Magazine and Dr. Dick Bergman built a project modified using what was considered at the time to be contemporary materials and methods it used a '57 Chevrolet frame from about the firewall back and a late '50 Chrysler product frame using the front suspension and steering complete with the front torsion bars and mounts for the rear with adjusters, it was also built using a Vega body and took a considerable time to get done what with staff changes and budget considerations. 😚
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On 4/1/2023 at 8:35 PM, CabDriver said:
A couple of years back I built the evergreen MPC Rat Trap Vega, then last year entered it in a local show and it won best oval car:
The prize was…another of the same kit 🤪
And the condition was, build it and bring it back next year and enter again. Deal! I doubt I’ll get away with another box-stock build with some light detailing though, so for this year’s entry I decided to see how far I could detail up one of these fairly-simple kits and really bring it to life - kinda like those amazing full-detail NASCAR builds done by people I admire like Clay Kemp and the late Dave Thibodeau.
First step in the manual is tires (why do NASCAR guys often start with the tires?!) and I wanted to switch out the treaded kit ones for a set of slicks. I COULD print some, but the aftermarket has plenty of options so I ordered a set that I suspect are designed specifically for this line of MPC kits. They slide right on the wheels like a glove!
These are actually injection molded rather than resin, and they come with waterslide tire lettering which is a big bonus in adding some detail. So, how much detail can we add to a tire, whilst I pondered that, I spent an hour or so cleaning up the mold lines, rounding off the edges and sanding some flats on the bottom to make them appear as though some weight is squishing them a little.
Kit tire on the left, new replacement tire center, sanded and prepped tire right:
I then shot the tires with a coat of Createx base (which is a translucent clear, almost like a primer) that allows better paint adhesion to tough-to-paint surfaces and tomorrow I can hit them with some airbrushing to add some realism.
Next step: the wheels - what can we do to THOSE to add some detail and realism? Well, first thing that struck me was the lugnut detail is kinda soft and uninspiring, so I drilled them out…
…and 3D printed a whole bunch of replacements…
…and now I have separate pieces that I can paint more easily and that look a little better I think:
Tomorrow’s job on the wheels will be making some balancing weights and valve stems and playing with those tires some more.
This is gonna be a fairly deep dive into a bunch of probably boring little details (like sanding tires and making lugnuts) so if you’re not into that - apologies for being boring 🤪.
More soon, soon as I’ve done more!A lot of us short track racers from that era would take 1/4" or in a rough track area (bigger wheel banging) 3/8" steel rod and place it in place to fill the area inside the bead of the wheel and the actual surface of where the bead started to roll and weld into place completely around the bead of the wheel. This would strengthen the beads on the rims and keep them from being easily deflated and would also stop sharp edges from developing that were extremely hard on competitors tires.
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On 3/31/2023 at 12:39 PM, fairlane1320 said:
I'm a hard-core Ford (only) guy and IMO, the '68 Galaxie is a much more attractive car than the '67.
I'd sure like to see some other Ford kits as well......
60-61 Comet
64-65 Falcon (street car)
65-70 Mustang Convertible
66 Cyclone
67-68 Cougar
69-70 Mach I (original tooling)
66-67 Fairlane Convertible
68-69 Fairlane/Torino Hardtop & Convertible
68-69 Cyclone fastback
69 Boss 429
70 Cougar
70-71 Cyclone
70-71 Torino Convertible
69-72 Maverick & 71-72 Comet
AND this......
Wasn't this released in a (Glidden?) Pinto version also?
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On 3/28/2023 at 8:30 AM, garagepunk66 said:
With Steve mentioning in another thread that more mid-60's GM intermediates (A-bodies) were a part of his cloning program, and already pretty far along in development, I would not be surprised to see one of those projects next. Though I am largely a Ford guy and I would love a 67 Galaxie, I would roll the dice on a Craftsman Plus 64 Malibu or another 64 Chevelle/El Camino variant arriving first. Perhaps the 66 Buick Skylark GS after that.
I'd love to see a '64 Chevelle, especially if it was a bench seat Malibu. It'd be really cool if the model manufacturers would release more mid range optioned cars and less of the top of the line ones.
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On 4/3/2023 at 8:46 PM, ChrisBcritter said:
I asked Ed Sexton that very question several years ago at NNL Milwaukee - according to him, it's not going to happen. Too bad, those T-bird wire wheels alone were little jewels.
I wonder why it wouldn't be possible to pop in the tires and wire wheels from the Revellogram 1/24th scale Deuce Roadster that had its origins in the L'il Deuce copy of the 1/8th scale Big Deuce kit.
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10 hours ago, tim boyd said:
Sounds to me like Atlantis will be reissuing one of the very best (and also very little known) kits of a particular model car genre/category .... not sure if it will be in this next round of "15" announcements or later on, but presuming it actually happens, it will be a "must purchase" for those who like to build those types of models....TB
Tim! Now that's just plain evil, you definitely know how to keep a few hundred (at the least) rabid model car builder/collectors in suspense. By the time your hints become known items half of us will have imagined about a jillion kits that they're absolutely sure to be the ones that are going to be released. In the meantime you sit there with a cup of coffee watching the lower life forms drive themselves into a total frenzy arguing with each other that each one of them is sure THEY are the ones who are in the know.😆
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19 hours ago, SteveG said:
I will say for now that there is an AMT 1407 kit coming but I'm not revealing any further details about it yet. I will have an official announcement and a built 3D printed mockup on display at the DAAM show near Detroit coming up in about two weeks. You'll have all your answers about it then.
I also plan to reveal at least two more un-announced items in April at NNL East that I think are just as good.
-Steve
Maybe those rumored Pro Stock kit rereleases are more fact than fiction!?
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On 2/24/2023 at 3:31 PM, 89AKurt said:
Thank you!
😅 No kidding! Thanks for your comment, pleasure to share such a build, even with the mistakes. Have to admit the trunk latch isn't working as well as before final assembly. 😒
I should have been working, but since I'm self-employed, and have no discipline, and was so close to finishing, I finished. The only thing I will do is slight road trip weathering, such as bug splats and a little dust. Modified the kit mirror to go with the windshield mount.
Since I added more lights, then I better put on a license plate light, not having a working light is enough to get pulled over. Bent polished aluminum plate, glued in stretched clear sprue with testers canopy glue. Russell Cook and I collaborated on license plates, I had them printed, sprayed Deft varnish, stuck on with canopy glue too. Then added photo-etch screw heads. Then I glued on the wheels, and finally the door handles.
Considered done. Super annoyed it's a tripod.
Who needs a good windshield frame? I know those tend to get wrecked by the tight packaging.
Pop off the "pony" tire and stick a jack stand under the axle, then it will really give it a "Hot Rod" look.
I like what you did with the extinguisher, you could have given it a light dusting of a transparent orange (that's what they use for gold anodized parts) and given it a polished brass look too.
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On 1/18/2021 at 8:57 AM, Danno said:
I'm glad Tim said it.
I was concerned, too, about your trying to replicate a basically stock Model A from a full-bore hot rod kit and still fly it by the GSL Judges. Not likely. But that's just if you stayed true to the one or the other - your chosen subject -or- the specified "same" kit.
It occurs to me, unfortunately, the only 'sameness' between the GSL specified kit and your subject matter is that both have "1929," "Ford," and "Model A" as lineage.
PS: Having said all that, I appreciate Tim calling our attention to the 1988 SAE article. I had missed that entirely, and yet it is a subject close to my heart. Now leaving for a deep dive into the Danno Archives.
??
You could just use one of the roadster frames and graft on the rear crossmember from one of the earlier Model A kits and use the "buggy" rear spring and using the spring mounts and possibly even the rear axle from the '48 Ford kit or maybe the one from the AMT '41 Hot Rod Woodie. Not much different than using a different engine and trans, or changing the interior and I almost guarantee that there will be a lot of that going on.
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On 1/2/2021 at 9:43 PM, 89AKurt said:
Ok thanks!
You know I like different. GSL has always been about featuring the best hot rod models on the planet, and I know all of them will be in this class, so don't expect an award. It should stand out on the table.
That is if anyone else dares to show their hand. Time will fly. A Skyline engine would be different. ?
I would put a Ford 2.3 four cylinder in it with two side draft Weber carbs, these little engines make well into the 300 horsepower range with some of the Esslinger Engineering parts. They even make a plate that bolts to the fuel injection manifold that fit a Holley four barrel carb if you don't want the Weber carbs, oh by the way a Ford produced a manifold for them, and Esslinger has a D port aluminum head that without any work flows better than the best factory OEM manifold worked to the maximum possible and the best thing about it is that it has a Ford part number and is available through a Ford parts department.
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5 hours ago, Dave Van said:
Salvinos biz model of 'Super Duper Ultra Rare Limited Run never to be seen again' is growing old fast. At first I bought one of each to support hoping they would get better with each kit. But this biz model has driven back to vintage F1 models. I ain't getting into a fight to get a kit. Add to it the claim they do this (limited) to help the hobby?!?!?!?!?!? 🤑
If they really wanted to build a rare NASCAR model they should look at the San Jose Super Modifieds, both the earlier asphalt ones or the later dirt supers that raced at the fairgrounds and until they were outlawed by the World Of Outlaws who didn't want Super Modifieds whipping up on their Sprint cars they were the only Super Modifieds sanctioned by NASCAR anywhere in the country and that alone would make a few want them to settle their curiosity and there would be a lot of short track racers who would buy multiples just for parts to build dirt or early asphalt race cars.
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I was looking at a new Mustang the other day and two colors really got my heart rate up, one was a pearl yellow tint that is a tri coat requiring a pearl yellow, or even a bright gold base with a transparent. (Kandy) mid coat and a top coat(s) of clear, the other is one that I originally saw on a gen 7 Corvette and it's a red tint tri coat and the colors are even available from Tamiya to make it easier, first use one of the Metallic or Pearl reds (the Red metallic will have a little more glitter, or sparkle however you want to call it, and a pearl or Mica red will have a "glow" to the highlights because the pearls are a lot finer metallic) then use transparent red over it as a mid coat just remember the more you add the more you high the base and the darker the red, I try to just get the color even and stop there but it's purely up to the painter. And again the final coats are clear that's the "Tri" part in a Tri Coat color. Good luck I know you'll find a good color even if you have to look at a House of Kolor chip book for getting that just right repeatable color (you know how nice cars seem to attract parking lot chips and dings and don't even get me started on birds or that one neighbor who thought giving his kid a BB gun for Christmas was a good idea.😂😂😉
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On 1/10/2019 at 8:30 PM, spike morelli said:
I haven't taken many photos of Cammers I've been fortunate enough to work on, but the first 3 photos here are my work. I've included 3 other photos of carbureted, injected, and blown/injected versions taken off the internet for reference.
Now, I was told by one of the engine's owners that the finned cam covers were all magnesium, originally from Ford. Most Cammers you see today have the aftermarket replacement aluminum cam covers ( rocker covers )installed. It makes no difference to me, as an engine builder, but seeing as this is a modeling site, for authenticities sakes, if a person wasn't modeling the polished look, painting the cam covers to replicate magnesium might be a more "from the Factory" look. Note that Ford installed the Holley carbs with the primaries to the rear ( same for wedge 427 8v factory set ups), and note the cannister style fuel filter mounted to the front center of the engine on the chain cover, on the carbed vershion, which came either black painted, or chromed.
Now, you might get the impression that I'm a "Ford guy" True, but not completely accurate. Besides building engines for a living, I'm a hot boat guy, and have one boat with a Nascar 406 Ford for power, another with an injected/blown 392 Chrysler Hemi on gas, and yet a third boat powered by two 327 Chevys, "freight trained" inline and Hilborn injected on nitro/methanol. I like them all.
Those are beautiful pieces of engineering but with those rods they're definitely not the ones submitted for NASCAR use, also the NASCAR engines didn't have roller cams as they weren't allowed. In fact when Bobby Allison won the race in California in one of the Penske Matadors they were caught running a roller cam and claimed they didn't know that they were not allowed. But somehow I don't see Penske Racing not knowing every little clause in the rule book.
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56 Chevy Bel Air - WIP
in WIP: Model Cars
Posted
I had a Sedan that was a factory two tone of white over Dusk Rose that was a purplish maroon color I've only seen one redone in that combination and of course I HAD to change the color and after I decided on the color I had to wait six months for the manufacturer to release mix formulas to the jobbers so I could get it mixed, that color was '69 Plymouth (only!) mid year release code F-6 Brite Green Poly. Only problem was that bright color along with fenderwell exist headers with 18" glass packs that we removed the insides from and the fact that lifting off the power above 3000 rpm would result in a large ball of unburned fuel coming out from under the car and it had enough of a cam that the downtown cruising speed required either first or second gear (if you had an opening in traffic) so any time you had to slow down it caused a lot of excitement. Those little things made the local police pull me over at least once a night and sometimes just pull into the parking lot right behind me if I was parked and most of the time it was the new recruits and they just wanted to look it over and see what was under the hood. I had a girlfriend that lived in a town about 45 miles to the north and made a weekly trip to see her for a few months and discovered that just cruising along at around 55-60 mph I got a whole five miles to the gallon. We were sure lucky that good 100+ octane gas was only 25-40¢ a gallon.
Just that the factory always put the lighter colors on the top surfaces with their two tone paint jobs, I have seen a couple of guys swap the colors and it made people ask about the "custom" colors only to find out it was just factory colors with the locations swapped.