horsepower
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Posts posted by horsepower
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On 3/16/2022 at 3:31 PM, mademan said:
The 1/12 has the same Grump Lump scoop haha. It's my favorite. Street Machine build, all 3d printed details, vinyl top. Not decided on color yet but the top will be white.
When I had a body shop and was still playing with the 1:1 scale pieces I painted a '69 Camaro for a friend and he let me do my own thing and I ended up doing the flat panels (ya know, the ones that are laying flat, facin' up) a silver mixed with nothing but the coarsest aluminum flakes that Imron had and a dab of Yellow toner, just enough for a slight gold tinge in the valleys, and the sides the brightest red on their chart, and to separate 'em about a 3/4 to 1" stripe and the striper added an orange stripe around the yellow. It was a pretty attention getting piece then I buried it all under a full gallon of Imron Urethane clear to give enough to work with for a perfectly flat surface that looked deep enough to take a nap in.
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On 3/12/2022 at 6:47 PM, Snake45 said:
I'm planning to go the other way with mine, mounting the axle on top of the springs so it sits a bit lower in the front. NHRA rules stated that the lower edge of the body could sit no higher than the centerlines of the axles, front and back. Although if you look at period pictures, this rule was often violated.
I'm going for the lower look too, but I think that I'll use the front suspension from the Beatnik Bandit II. It has the best Mustang II style front suspension in plastic. I have a couple of the R&D Unique cast metal independent front suspension kits but I still lean towards the plastic parts since if I need to add to something along the way it's easier to do and any time I can get good results without having to do something hard that'll be my path😉.
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On 2/19/2022 at 11:45 AM, Casey said:
Saw this complete, original 1/25 AMT 1966 Mustang GT Fastback kit on eBay, so have a look at the (partial, I didn't save every image) contents. Might be useful for comparison when the re-created '66 Mustang Fastback debuts later in 2022 from Round2.
I'd buy it just for the Webers, and valve covers they'd be perfect for a replica of a local Super Modified from the mid to late '60s that the local Ford dealership actually donated a complete from pan to air horns 289 Cobra engine as a sponsorship. Pretty competitive against much bigger engines, one Sprint car even ran a 427 fuel injected Ford power plant.
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On 2/28/2022 at 5:58 PM, Zippi said:
Thanks James. I ran into a small issue. The rear tires need to be moved further out towards the fenders. Tomorrow I'll modify the differential to push the wheels out further.
I know it's too late but the little bit of space would be needed since you have to remember that you're going to need enough room to slide the rear tires and wheels off the studs and more than likely have to tip them in at the top to get them in and out of the wheel well openings and the car will move side to side over the tires when cornering not to mention how much the sidewall flex on them big ol'slicks are gonna have if you ever get even a little bit out of shape😉.
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On 2/27/2022 at 4:32 AM, bluestringer said:
I've decided on a 396 chevy engine for mine and am waiting on one I ordered from ebay. Have you decided on a color for yours?
I had a couple of the AMT '57. Pro Street kit and decided that the frame and suspension parts would be a perfect fit under the '55 body and with the tires and wheels from the AMT '67Chevelle kit I am almost ready to get real serious about it. Addendum: got a supercharged big block with fenderwell exit headers from a Chevy Monster Truck kit and since it has a street type set up for cooling AND a modern automatic to use I'm just about ready to start mocking things up, still haven't decided if I want to use the big block base engine and heads from the '57 so all mounts won't need to be changed around, and I was looking for at the front clip from the AMT '70 1/2 Camaro to update the chassis in the front or if I really want to use some put back rare things I have a complete Mustang II front suspension set up from the Revell Beatnik Bandit II and that would be even a little more up to date for a street driver type because if I really want a Pro Street car it would require building (or robbing) the more modern McPherson strut type front suspension from a modern style Pro Street but I'm not building a Lutz type tri five all out race car, just a loud obnoxious in your face old style Pro STREET, emphasizing the STREET for its main purpose, it's a big stop light cruiser that would be one of my "bucket list" cars .😊
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On 3/6/2022 at 9:25 PM, Dennis Lacy said:
Yesterday I ran down the road a few miles to Pegasus Hobbies and picked up the all-new and much anticipated Moebius 1964 Nova SS and 1965 Chevy II Gasser kits.
Even though I had studied the contents in @tim boyd excellent reviews I still had to dig into both as soon as I got them home. And, as I perused all of the parts my wheels started spinning and I had my parts bins open. My original thought was that I’d build the gasser basically out of the box (at some point) but those of you familiar with my model projects already know that’s an impossibility. I mean, just look at what happened with the AMT ‘63 Nova Wagon!
I know there’s going to be plenty of 60’s era builds based on this kit so I wanted to do something a bit unpredictable and the theme I landed on was a (somewhat privileged) high school kids (somewhat) beater Street Freak with a healthy rat motor. The kind of impractical all-business car a gear head dad would build with his son in the late 70’s/early 80’s.
A while back on eBay I bought the complete Chevy Big Block engine out of a Revell 1967 Chevelle Pro Street which comes with a dual quad intake, velocity stacks, tuff looking Moroso valve covers and long tube headers. When it first occurred to me to try the BB I didn’t have any expectation that it would actually fit and to my surprise it did! It’s tight, for sure, but it does fit and the slivers of clearance scaled up would be acceptable. In the first picture is the kits front motor mount cross member and you can see (look close) the minimal areas needing trimmed colored with black marker. Then following is the basic engine and headers sitting in place.
The transmission cross member has a raised half crescent piece sticking up for the kit trans to register on. I removed that and added a .040” thick block then added an alignment pin in the center that registers in a corresponding hole I drilled in the transmission.
Since this car would be a teenagers local driver it couldn’t stay open headers or he’d be asking for constant harassment from The Law. The new ‘64 Nova SS kit builds factory-stock but as we saw in @tim boyd review there are extra parts in the kit not mentioned in the instructions, one of which being a very nicely rendered larger diameter full aftermarket style exhaust system. The extra exhaust is for a later version of the kit and is clearly designed to mate to a set of long tube headers. As luck would have it, the spacing at the front matched the big block header spacing exactly, the pipes just come up a bit short. I don’t care for the way the header collectors severely neck down so I chopped them off and replaced them with some resin pieces from my friend Ed at Drag City Casting. Then I trimmed them to the appropriate length, drilled and inserted alignment pins. The two Nova kits share the same floor pan and just need to have the exhaust system mounting holes opened up.
Great looking build, but being one of those kids who built their own street rod, the straight axle big blocks were way out of our meager income of the day. Mine was a '56 Chevy with a transplanted '57 Corvette long block, but with an Edelbrock C3-B intake, T-10 four speed and swap the ol' 30-30 Duntov cam for a little more radical Isky cam and the addition of Cyclone fenderwell exit headers. For most of us a (almost) new Chevy II was just too much money, never mind the cost of the big block.😉But for one build tip for anyone following along, if you just lengthen the shaft coming out of the column down to where the motor mount is on the frame rail and putting the U-joint back at the end right there then shorten the bottom shaft and adjust the angle between the two U joints the steering angle would work fine, especially with the double type joints used, and I found out the hard way that using a gold or clear yellow on the Moroso valve covers isn't quite the right color, but light coats of clear orange (quitting when you get the right shade) will give you the perfect Gold Anodized Aluminum finish that they used for the original version. My version will be to swap the engine from the Revell '69 Z-28 Camaro and the body from the two door hardtop version to build a replica that belonged to a friend and raced it in C/MP (C-Modified Production) class locally and it was seldom beat by anything in its own class and even a lot of supposed "better" cars were even able to best it.
Oh, I almost forgot, since the Revell '67 Pro Street is a 1/24th scale kit, using the engine from the AMT '67 Chevelle Pro Street might not have the slight interference fit., Looking forward to watching this build, keep up the great work and ideas and thanks for letting us watch you do your "magic". Del.
So, other than Tim’s build review of the pre production kit a couple of months ago it looks like I’m the first one on this forum to dig into a production version.
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1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:
Hey there Roger. The half round on the drip rails and side trim came out perfectly. I want to put side trim on the '40 Willys Pick-up. For whatever reason there is no side trim on the kit. I see you used .020 for the side trim. In looking the Evergreen stuff there are 2 different .020 half-round sizes. If you still have the package can you let me know what one it is you used?
If you reread the article you'll notice that what he used to replace the trim on the side of the body was .020 rod, and not half round, BUT he did use .020 half round for the drip rail replacement, I have used both square stock and .020 angle stock for drip rail, but it depends on if I want to represent drip rail channel, or just a blending of the drip rail into the roof like he did on his beautiful job. I hope that helps you get clarity on what your question was.
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Just saw this, it's one of the celebrity losses I missed somehow. He had several different scenes where I was laughing so hard I had to ask what I'd missed but one scene I really could understand and sympathize with his statement was when they were hit by the tornado and they found Johnny cowering alone in his own hiding spot where he told them that he had been in a mobile home that had been hit by a tornado and added "God HATES mobile homes. Sorry my wife and I had one for our first home of our own I can totally understand what he was talking about. R.IP. Howard/Johnny you're going to be missed but we can try to find old replays of WKRP in Cincinnati. Best we can do, it'll have to do.
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On 11/11/2021 at 6:15 AM, Smoke Wagon said:
That’s just part of the fun. Especially when say, the oil filter looks the same as the starter in the instructions. 😁
It's even worse when the same is true for the parts themselves, on some of the Ford kits it's like they used the same mold for the starter, oil filter and it's old enough the generator too.
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On 1/8/2022 at 1:15 PM, tim boyd said:
OK....since we are dreaming....
Newly tooled off patterned off original annual kits (like the '63 Nova wagon and the IH Cabover)
* MPC 1968 Coronet R/T HT and Convertible
* MPC 1971 Impala HT
* MPC (nee AMT) 1928 Model T (if indeed crucial parts of the original tooling cannot be found)
* MPC 1972 Dodge D100 Adventurer SE
* AMT 1967 Galaxie 500 XL HT and Convertible
* MPC 1970/71 Cyclone Spoiler and GT
* AMT 1969 Gas Ronda Long-Nose Mustang funny car
All new tooling/new subjects: for all, full stand-alone engine and powertrain detail, partial or omitted engine componentry unacceptable!!!!
* 1962-1964 Ferrari Berlinetta Lusso
* 2020- present Ferrari Roma Coupe
* 2021-present Ford F-150 Raptor and upcoming Raptor R
* 2021-present Ford Bronco 2dr, 4dr, and upcoming Raptor
* 2018-2022 Ford Mustang GT, GT350, Bulllit, Mach 1, GT500 in HT (and where applicable) convertible versions
* 2021-present Corvette Coupe and Convertible
* 1970/71 Cyclone (off Revell Torino tool, if Round 2 does not do as above)
* 1970/71 Ranchero GT and Squire (off Revell Torino Tool)
* 1968-1972 GTO series, HT and Convertible, including 1970 Judge and the first-ever correct 1/25th scale RA-IV engine componentry
* 1970 1/2-1973 Firebird 400/455 Formula and Trans-AM, including 1971 455 HO and 1973 SuperDuty
* 2022 Ford F150 Lightning
* 2023 Chevy Electric Silverado
* 1968-1972 Javelin and Javelin AMX (with correct 390/400 engine)
* Generic (but all new tooled) 1966-1970 front engine rail with licensing from top drivers of the period
Modified reissues:
* MPC Dyno Don and Gapp&Roush Pro Stock Pintos ({by far, the most authentic in MPC's Pro Stock kit series)
* AMT-Ertl 1971 Charger Rod Shop Stocker
* MPC Charger III
* Moebius/Model King 1965 Super Stock Belvedere as campaigned by Butch Leal from 1972-74
* AMT Nitro-Charger funny car
* Current top fuel rail dragsters (based off Revell's early 1990's tooling which could be adapted to current rail dragster format/technology)
* Polar Lights 1969 Camaro Dickie Harrell Logghe funny car (project was under consideration during original Polar Lights ownership)
Several others I've already mentioned to Round 2 and should probably not mention here.
.......
TB
PS- there are at least 2-3 others I would mention here, except they are already under development (but not yet announced) by the modeling companies...
Tim, wouldn't that MPC/AMT '28 be a Model A, instead of a Model T? I would settle for the three venturi Weber carbed Corvair. They really came alive with those Porsche goodies, and I'd really have to agree wholeheartedly with you about the Pro Stock (or any of the small bumper sedans) Pinto kits but PLEASE use the MPC '74 sedan and toss in the small bumpers and valances so we could build our choice of years. That '74 version is the only sedan offering that has the optional deluxe trim package with side moldings an chrome trim. Now if only some intelligent person would produce some of the A-50, and D-50 BF Goodrich Comp T/A's in 13" sizes . Like I saw in an earlier post, a fella can dream can't he? It would really be great if the Round2 group would dig out their flat bottom and hydro molds so we would be able to afford some decent performance type boats without getting bent over the railing.
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On 12/25/2021 at 2:12 PM, doorsovdoon said:
Love the '77 AMT Pinto. Although a horrendous kit right out the box regarding fit issues and a completely botched up front end update from the original annual, it's a fun build if you like "sculpting"! I hinged the hatchback on mine and detailed the chassis with tie rods and anti roll bar.
As a fan of the Pinto's and having a body shop at the time this body style came out I can tell you that the factory pieces didn't fit all that well either. I always thought that the use of the same front fenders was the main contributing factor. But it made it easy for me to make a later year Pinto out of one of ours when it was totaled in a deer/bank collision. (The wife swerved to miss Bambi's mom dropped the right front wheel and tire off of a really tall shoulder causing the car to make a violent right turn. The only thing she could think of was I had told her if the back end ever started to come around to stay off the brakes and steer it. She didn't realize until later that she had braced herself on the gas pedal and was climbing a hill in third gear and when it came around with the throttle wide open it just smoked the tires and really wore off the outside edge of the left rear tire, (a brand new D-50x13" Comp T/A Radial) and bounced off of vertical bank three different times before she got it stopped. But it was a good thing kinda because the other side of the road was a vertical drop of around fifty feet.
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On 11/28/2021 at 12:56 PM, bluestringer said:
I have those same instructions, but I don't have all those extra parts needed. And it doesn't go into detail on how to install the big meats on the back. The mags that are in the kit don't fit far enough into my big tires, so the axle is not long enough. I will try and find an axle that will work. I hope I can come up with some other engine options that will work also. Also fitting the body and interior onto the frame doesn't seem to work very good without the fender section on there. I'm studying on it though.
The interesting thing about those older AMT kits is that any of the engines from any of the same period engines will fit without any modifications as they all used the same mounts on the frames.
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3 hours ago, Zippi said:
Thanks James. Just put the body in the purple haze. Probably take a week to strip it since it has enamel on it.
The Purple bath will remove enamels quick and easy, but lacquer is extremely difficult to get all of it off. If it was just sprayed over an unprepped or unprimed body the paint will just fall off. Just remove it after a couple of hours and with hot water and a stiff toothbrush clean off the loose paint since it can be deceiving since it will appear that nothing is happening since the paint will sometimes just hang in place and remain basically intact just floating in place.
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On 12/11/2021 at 1:10 PM, NOBLNG said:
I think you’re on the right track with it now Bob! I like the idea of leaving the fenders stock so that it looks semi-original from a distance.
Find another set of stock appearing fenders and by swapping them from side to side and cutting them to the correct height they make some really different appearing tubs. Depending on what you you have to do with the suspension you will either have to form something between them or use some plastic sheet to fill the remains of the wheel opening that will be left, unless they are low enough to not have any opening left.
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On 9/17/2021 at 11:51 AM, Mark said:
I'm in on these (the truck and trailer, not the diecast bucket truck). It's too bad Revell did the Roth cars, otherwise maybe Round 2 would have issued the Haulaway trailer as a companion piece, instead of an enclosed trailer...
Doesn't AMT/MPC, et.al. Have molds for a TV Tommy Ivo type enclosed trailer that had sides of clear panels so the car(s) inside could be seen while going down the road? Something like that would be perfect for sticking one of the early Roth kits, or even the Beatnik Bandit II would be an appropriate vehicle for it. I'd be interested in something like that more than an enclosed trailer with Rat Fink decals, unless some kind of Roth vehicle was in the deal with it.
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On 12/3/2021 at 6:49 AM, CabDriver said:
Oh yeah, duh - you're exactly right.
In good news, I like that Phantom 'Vickie' kit too! I'll definitely be picking up a few of those!
The interior and chassis from the Fink Speedwagon from Revell fit the Phantom too. Or you can even use the interior from the Speedwagon in the Revell two door sedan kit for a different interior look or Phantom chassis for the independent front suspension, BUT I'd stay with the Revell rear end and suspension instead of the Phantom kits Mustang Cobra parts.
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On 11/25/2021 at 7:16 AM, espo said:
I'm not so interested in a decal swap as maybe trading this kit for something I would be more interested in building someday. What I'm thinking of doing is try and sell this at the local swap meet and show in June '22.
I understand that well, hopefully they have the NNL West in February next year. It and about everything else was on hold this year and last year too. Between that and a few needed surgeries have kept me away for the past ten years so I'm really anxious to go again. We usually take a big load down to sell and my wife says we bring as much or more back home, so she doesn't see it getting any smaller. Thanks for getting back to me so quickly I do appreciate it. Del
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On 2/23/2021 at 8:06 AM, espo said:
I have the Buddy Baker '73 Charger kit, still sealed. I wonder if anyone would know if this would be the same kit with different decals ?
You wouldn't be interested in trading the Buddy Baker decal set for the Richard Petty ones would you? I have the last issue of the Petty Charger and haven't even opened the box yet and haven't been able to find a #71car or decal set reasonable yet.
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3 hours ago, Luc Janssens said:
My thoughts exactly, this is really a fun kit packed with so much stuff, ones imagination can go wild on how to build it, IMHO more much more kits should be packed with lotsa options.
Yeah, I'm definitely gonna pick this one up when available here, bang for the buck too!
BTW about the 4cyl cough cough, sorry Chris couldn't help it
, I mean the Stovebold six, can one use that engine in a fifty seven Chevy?
The six from the. '60 AMT Chevrolet pick-up would be a closer appearing one than the one from the '37 coupe. The '37 is a 216 c.i. engine and the truck has basically the same 235 c.i. engine that came in the '57.
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Mine showed up this afternoon and for the first two hours I was busy and couldn't take the time to talk or hear anyone in the house. Loved the 'Vegas coverage show coverage gives me some good ideas and news about what everyone else is doing.
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On 10/17/2021 at 11:39 PM, 1972coronet said:
Funny how the term 'Mag Wheels' et al. became a colloquial term for any aftermarket wheel . The only true "Mag" wheel is composed of Magnesium ; others are aluminium and or aluminium centre with steel hoops ( Cragar S/S for example ) or stamped steel .
Keeping after polished magnesium or aluminium was a constant task , as oxidation set-in quickly , as would brake dust . These days (well , within the last ~ 40 years ) these aluminium wheels have a clear coating . Not sure if Mg. is still used for common aftermarket , styllised wheels .
In '69 I bought a little '64Dodge Dart BY and like any respect 19 year old I just had to have a set of "Mag" wheels . But I found out very quickly that there were no manufacturers making 13x5 wheels with that tiny 5 on 4 bolt circle, BUT I could get Ansen to drill a set of Midget wheels with that bolt circle and they only cost me $140 EACH! And when they arrived I discovered that the center caps had to be modified with a few gentle whacks with a hammer so they would clear the shoulders on the lug nuts that actually stuck into the center opening of each wheel, (I did say they had a really TINY bolt circle) the other problem was that they were designed to use the drive pins and a pressure hat on a midget and the entire center diameter of each wheel was solid and a full 3/4" thick and with no "coining" or back cutting to provide some kind of cushioning you had to retorque the lugnuts every day before leaving home. I discovered this the hard way trying to find out where that annoying clicking noise was coming from. The real annoying thing was they were a raw machined aluminum wheel that required a lot of polishing at least twice a week.
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On 10/14/2021 at 12:00 PM, Muncie said:
We may be expecting what we got from Revell. But if the two parts packs from Gofer are any indication, it looks like somebody has done a little work on the manufacturing side. The Gofer dragster chassis and engine are noticeably better quality. Not putting anybody down at Revell, it's been 60 years and things changed. I'm waiting with a bit of excitement to see what Atlantis puts in the box.
I'd really like those "backwards" Halibrand wheels if the other side was correctly molded so they could be reversed like the 1:1 wheels could be used, for the Sprint car and Super Modified guys we'd be excited to see something new for us on the market. I wouldn't complain too much if they were to release a Buick engine, or especially a "Boss 429" as parts packs😁😁
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On 10/27/2020 at 2:16 PM, mrm said:
Other than the sweet Vette motor, there is not much else to use out of that kit. Except of course building it as intended.
I am curious about that earlier edition of the truck you are talking about. Any pictures?
As far as I know it's the only kit that has a well detailed version of the Mustang II/Pinto front suspension, and those super wide rear tires but with a modern style diameter fit better under a street rod than using the huge Pro-Street size tires.
In fact I've been able to get two of those BB II kits for the front suspension and steering set ups but definitely could use a couple more if I could get just those pieces it would make me extremely happy.
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On 10/4/2021 at 6:47 AM, Justin Porter said:
Well, I did ask for Round 2 to consider reissuing some of the classic Indy kits. Wouldn't have been my first choice BUT it is one that's been out of production for quite a long time and that I'll be very happy to add to my growing display of Lotus open wheel machines.
I would be extremely excited if they released either the Indy Winners multi kit or even better give us a re-release of the Kurtis Roadster Parnelli Jones car again.
AMT '57 Chevy Street Machine kit
in WIP: Model Cars
Posted
Or maybe some Lemon Yellow transparent for a pure bright yellow kandy, I remember years ago when the ISCA National Grand Champion show car was a radically customized '57 Bel-Air hardtop that had a small block with a crank driven Potvin blower and everything that was bolted on the frame and body was all engraved and 24 Karat gold plated. It was beautiful and was done in the yellow over gold kandy, I hear that it's making a new round of the show circuit but has a gold pearl base for the yellow know and people say it looks like it's glowing under the lights.