dave riggs

Doesn't look to bad Al. I haven't been working on much either. I will get back into the 1/8's soon though I think.

I would actually give them the 63 Riviera, But where is the 70 Riviera, and the 71? As far as corvettes go, I would have to say 1967 would be the best. I don't really think a Camaro belong on the list at all. Style wise I can think of a lot of Cadillacs that look a whole lot better than a Camaro. Dave

Not all 455's are the same. Are you sure it is the Olds 455 you are looking at(gold), and not the Pontiac 455(blue) or Buick 455(red?).

1) EVAP canister, (formally known as the charcoal canister). 2)Yes fuel tank, unknown about one or two. 3)Two fuel lines, (pressure, and return) one brake line, and I believe that the last would be EVAP line (They still feed to the intake)

This is cool isn't it? My last car bought, I changed the brakes on the front only, and proceded to drive the thing for 10 years before I changed them again! The only reason I changed them after the ten years was because the rear brakes were starting to leak, and get wore out. It went 63 miles a day to work and back! Dave

I've been thinking that my new years resolution should be to 1. work less, and 2. build more models! Maybe build some of the models at work, I mean, do I really have to try to be the best at work, or just better than the worst? Dave

White is correct for a 1965 Shelby GT 350. If you were to convert it to a 1966 Shelby, then it could be painted other colors. To convert it, you would need side scoops, 1/4 panel windows, and the 1966 GT interior. Those are the major differences. Dave

I think it was the AMT 1957 chevy that had a wide grill of corvette teeth in it. It was the early release, not the newer ones. Let me look around for ya! Dave Yeah, I found this on E-Bay. It is not mine... http://cgi.ebay.com/Vtg-AMT-57-Chevrolet-Model-Car-Kit-1957-Chevy-Hardtop-/180647680124?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a0f70d87c I believe just about any of the metal axle 57 kits from AMT should have the grill.

Cato, Thanks. I built this as a practise run for the GT-40 I have waiting in the wings...Now I am not sure I want to start it next.. Al "Mr. Winston!", Thanks, didn't really put much detail into this one though, Really just about box stock. Dave

Thanks guys. I tried weathering it based on the movie Le MANS, but I didn't go near as far with it as in the movie. I thought it might be a little over done also, but the flash from the camera really takes some of the weathering out of it. Dave

Just finished this today. Hope you like. http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll34/ldcsriggs/porsche%20910/ Here is the link to the rest. Dave

Don't forget that Icon models created a 1/8 scale model not to many years ago. Sure its a die cast Australian kit, but it is a model! http://www.iconmodels.com.au/brands/Icon-Models.html I believe that the frame/suspension would be the same as a Mustang, so it could be converted.. Dave

Hey Bruce, I just finished an 1/8 scale model and used the cloth medical tape to replicate canvas. I just burnished it down real good, cut it, and painted it. This is the best picture I could find. http://www.largescalemodeler.com/gallery/showfull.php?photo=12476 It should be just fine for a 1/25 headliner. Dave

You could also try the AMT 71 duster. It has a 340 in it. Dave

I am not totally sure what front suspension your 1:1 truck has, but I think you might be better off with the 65 frame and suspension. The 60 chevy has torsion bar front end, and the 65 has the coil springs. I think your truck has coil springs in front, right? Dave

I was just at my model bench, and the 60 chevy caught my eye. I was just going to tell Aaron the same thing. The AMT kit has the small rear window in it, and I believe all the trim also. This should save you a LOT of scratch building! Here is a link to one on E-bay so you know what to look for. http://cgi.ebay.com/AMT-ERTL-60-Custom-Fle...=item2a02796338 Dave

WOW! I think I've seen that truck sitting down the road from me! Looks good!

Why not just add a 3X5 postcard to the kits themselves already addressed to Revell for suggestions. It would limit responses to those who actually buy or build the kits. It would also keep someone from stuffing the ballot boxes.

The 1959 to 1964 Chevys were built structurally unsound when they were new because of the "x" frame design. I have heard in the past that the owners would die in "T" bone accidents because the frame rail wasn't there to stop the crushing of the second vehicle until the middle of the car. It also makes sense to me that the frame rail would fold over behind the front suspension in an offset front end accident allowing the second car to travel into the passenger compartment. I would still take the 59 anyday of the week though! It doesn't look like a Honda!

Thanks Zuk. I thought about it this morning, and I realized that the Gold color is just a little to brown for me. I believe that I will try for an anodized blue color. I also realized this morning that it was the 71 duster that I used for the uni body, not the 70. My bad Dave P.S. nice ramp truck under glass!

After finishing up my GTO, I dug through my stash and found this old gem that I probably started in around 2000 I shortened the 70 Duster unibody to fit under it, and am going to use the Duster 340 engine. I am kind of stuck on a color though. I am not sure, blue, or gold. Or ??? Maybe this color gold? Dave

The stripes are charting or drafting tapes. The wide one is chrome, and the thin one is black. The chrome one didn't turn out so well. Dave

Here is my first build of this year. I mostly just wanted to try some weathering techniques. And a link to the rest of the build... http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll34/ldcsriggs/gto/ Dave

Don't forget, when Monogram issued the Big Drag, they also issued a Big Rod that was molded in yellow.

I have used super skulptey for odd shaped pieces, and I have found it pretty easy to work with. I just bake it in a toaster oven for about 5 minutes. Here is a picture from a intake I built with it. http://www.largescalemodeler.com/gallery/s...0&ppuser=12 The main thing in working with it is to take your time and get it right before you bake it. It is kind of soft after baking, like an eraser, and that makes it hard to sand. Dave