diymirage
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Posts posted by diymirage
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I may have missed it in here, but were the pulleys part of the motor or did you acquire them separate?
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sure they are toys
that's no reason to make it look as accurate and as good as you want it too
if your reply to my comment would have been "i know, but I like it that way" then that is cool, your model, your choices
but if by any chance you are posting here because you are looking for input from fellow modelers and are trying to make the next model look better then the last then i'd be more then happy to provide you with some constructive criticism
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the "main kit" I will be using is the AMT 71 duster 340
it has (most of) the underhood A/C parts I need as well as the knee kicker outlets
im tempted to try and locate one of the 75 duster streetrods to scavenge the dash out of
or maybe the new 75 dart sport kit (unless a fellow member has one they could part with or trade me)
it will be tricky to get the 3 belt set up build but we'll see how it goes
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looks good but the tail pipes look a tad too big
what is that, about 6-7 scale inches?
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no more FM3 ?
too bad
unless your going for EL5 ?
I LOVE EL5
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tell me what you like and ill see what I can dig up for you
if you want to measure how tall the front tires are I can probably find some about just as tall
you may need to move the rear frame rails in a bit to clear them, so be sure to measure how wide you can go there
I bet I can find some centerlines if you like those (I hate hate HATE them)
but im sure I got some nicer ones too
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last October the wifey bought ginger for me, a 1971 Plymouth duster with a very weak 225 /6 engine
as it sits today it sports a 360 LA smallblock out of a 1975 RV
I will be building a model of her as close to the real thing as possible
so far the only problems in seeing is the 8.75 rear end that comes with the kit
the duster still has the 7.25 (with open highway gears) but I will build the model with the 8.75 which I am hoping to install at some point anyway
I will try to install the rims in a manner that allows me to change them over once I get different rims on Ginger (which wont be until after I get the rear end and possibly the front brake set-up changed over)
im planning on modifying the 360 to show the proper belt routing and that is about it
PARTS I NEED
a non rally A body dash as found in the 75 dart sport (mislabeled as a duster) and possibly the re-issue of this kit
a set of Holley valve covers as shown below
an air cleaner as seen below
I will be working on this with my 5 year old when my 19 month old sleeps so don't expect to see it move any time soon
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nice start
you know what I think would rock?
(and don't get offended if you don't like this) but what about slapping some 15 by 8 inch rear rims on there?
with some nice wide slicks to get the power to the ground
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I didn't know you were a bengals fan
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No way. Cowl induction is way too overused, I try to avoid typical like the plague. I think Eelco has an excellent point though.
I hear you man
I can not stand cowl induction on mopars (except of course the AAR cuda I build, that one rocks)
but if you do put that on there you might as well paint the engine bay black
(the AAR hood I mentioned)
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I cant believe we are even discussing this
the Allison is a ww2 aircraift engine, the airgrabber scoop has the typical nose art shark on it
seems like a perfect match to me
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nice
I saw a real life one of these last weekend at "mopars at Martin"
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sorry to hear it Kurt
but look on the bright side...if it wasn't for your post I would still be thinking I have until December 31st to finish the build
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you can NOT build an alfa romeo race car without the serpent and cross on the hood
and IMHO it should have been bright yellow...why?
let me tell you, I was 16 years old when I was working at a alfa romeo garage that did a lot of race prepping
one day we got a sprint in just like this from a Belgium owner
he wanted it to be as light and fast as possible so we took off the front clip, the door skins and the trunklid and had then remade in fiberglass
then we added an 3.2 v6 in it and shot it bright yellow as per the customers request
the customer was ecstatic when he came to pick the car up until he told us what series he wanted to race the car in...he was over 400 pounds below the minimum weight
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I might join in on this build...IF I can find a front bench seat for a 70-74 A-body
I have a good idea for a duster but it HAS to have a bench seat
not giving any clues on the build but I will tell you the name...the A-bomb (which by the way is a whole lot more powerfull than the F-bomb)
(and that name is taken guys, no stealing it
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I know its been a while Virgil but I have resumed progress on galloper
nothing to show for it yet but I almost have the motor installed
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hey Nick (and everyone else involved)
looks like I might be getting back into modeling as the days grow shorter
not sure how I drifted away from models in general, but that's the way summers seem to go for me
if I remember correctly I had a build started for this but I wasn't happy with the body
so ill dig up the box and see where it sits and let yall know
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looks like you shot it under a 90% angle
next time, shoot it under 45% and see if it doesn't come out a little shinier
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always wanted a 1/24 scale airplane to steal the engine from for a hotrod
just never could justify the cost
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thanks Bill, that's a great help
and to show you I am actually working on something, here are a few shots of the engine
haven't paint the props yet, or the outside of the cowls but just to show how it sits in there
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thanks for the link Bill, there are some good tips on there
the turbos are a nice molded in detail on the kit so that should be simple enough to detail
since we're talking about the engine cowl, I was thinking of painting those red, those and the tail rudders
so, cowl flaps, what are they, what are they for and what colour should they be?
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apart from the quality of the paint and or cans you are using there are several things to keep in mind that can improve the quality of the paint job
first of, keep in mind some paints dry quicker then others
if you are shooting clear A over paint B over primer C you must ensure both B and C are properly cured or those coats will shrink and cause cracking of the coat A
now, this is much more likely to happen when using a combination of paint brands, lacquer and enamels
secondly: preparation
make sure you paint during the right conditions, if you have to paint outside do it on a dry, windstill warm day
make sure you have as good a base as possible, clean the model you are about to paint, if it feels to rough, sand it (then wash it again)
when you are ready to paint put your paint can in a pan of water and warm it up nicely, don't let it boil but let it get hot to the touch
this will "thin" out the paint and allow it to flow nicer
and remember, several thin coats are always better then one thick one
baseline: a good painter with lousy equipment will still do a better job then a lousy painter with the best equipment
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thanks Wayne
I've decided to go with olive drab over neutral grey though I might put in a tad more blue
for the interior I have read the cockpit used a green (ish) insolation, im planning on using paper towel for that
I also picked up a can of green chromate and a can of yellow chromate
I will use the yellow for the inside of the engine shrouds and the wheel wells
the green is too bright, I was going to mix in some grey or so and use that for the interior
but you tell me the interior is not painted nor primered, save for the stringers
I kinda really like this one (is this the radiators you refered to leaking on the wings?)
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steve, the song that came to my mind was by Jamey Johnson "in color"
the second verse actually talks about a tailgunner
Lenn, you did mention it was your dad, I just assumed it was your grand dad, probably because my grand dad lived through the war and he was a little boy, 7-12 I think
the revel 1/48 kit is the one I will be building
I started working on it yesterday and the first thing I did was "wrong"
the instructions call for the trim on the glass pieces to be the colour as the fuselage but I decided to paint them silver
my hands aren't that stable and I was never very good at painting tiny trim like this so I used the silver sharpie I also use to paint trim on car interior and it worked great
(the trim is raised detail so I just very lightly put the tip of it on there and let the paint flow into the detail)
Another P/E air cleaner I'm looking for.
in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
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