Well, I would first recommend that you try posting your question in the help/question section.anyway, I really like using two way tape for glass, it's easy to use & takes away all risk of damage - it works well.
Nothing against what you believe to be a good cause Tom, but .....I have a couple of concerns regarding the museum .... firstly, I am deeply put off after hearing from two close friends that donated to Mark; shortly after the opening; neither received any form of thank you, not even a note; or message or any recognition of any kind that their models arrived there at all, which I think is really rude. Secondly, it seems as though the museum has very limited access to the public, ( any museums I have visited are open at least 6 days a week & have regular visiting hours ) ;also, I don't understand why the website wouldn't contain all of the "donations" clearly for all to see ( in a more transparent manner ) & be set up in a way that all could visit & enjoy ( especially because of the very limited access. ) & be updated on a regular basis ( It states on the home page that it was to be updated May 2015, unless I'm not navigating properly, I don't see any type of virtual tour in any form, or any improvement of the site in any way at all . My third point, is regarding future ownership of the museum, what happens to the contents; once Mark & Jim - ( "the trustee" ) pass away ? Is there 100% guarantee that no donations will ever be sold ?
You need some type of form, usually, for I've done, the original part is used. if you have a cracked windshield that you need to replace, you'll want to repair it & make sure the crack is glued /filled/sanded well, the plastic will pick up flaws; Plastacine is used to fill the inside cavity & make the part rigid / stable & able to mount in the centre of your plate. Avoid anything with too much undercut, anything that may get locked in; Pump, repeat & keep going to get the best form & always keep the little holes clear on the plate by cleaning with a pin to remove extra plasticine.
Well, not to be rude & tell you to ignore all the other paint advise, but with your current setup, water based is the only logical way to go; without better circulation ; you will be smelling any & all type of solvent based paint. Now, if at some point you are able to get a proper setup, then you want to go with the real deal - good automotive lacquer ; not hobby paints it's like day & night - there is no comparrison, despite what some half-assed - so called "experts" may preach.
Perfect choice. Wear a good respirator / charcoal mask when spraying & be sure to replace the cartridges on a regular basis as needed. try to seal an area off with sheet plastic ( from ceiling to floor - have a panel of the heavy plastic with a slit as doorway ) - Seal off any vents to avoid any fumes entering other areas of the house. The ideal set up - use one window for fan & adjacent window that can be opened ( 2-3 inches is fine ) - for cross ventilation. Despite low fumes with water based paint, do not asume it is safer than solvent based paint - they still are made of harmful pigments, although they may have a different carrier than solvent based; you don't want them in your system & your pores & skin will readily absorb them. Take your time learning, try to adjust the airbrush & pressure until you get the results you desire. Expect mistakes & learn by them - they are part of the learning curve. Distance & speed of your passes are very important & once you get the feel of it, will become second nature. If you need help feel free to message me.