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Art Anderson

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About Art Anderson

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    Arthur Anderson

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  • Location
    Lafayette Indiana
  • Full Name
    Arthur E. Anderson

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  1. Bonding Clear to Opaque Styrene

    Actually, I would not! CA glues are rather brittle once they harden, and with any torque (twisting even slightly) that glue joint can break. Since you are wanting to do these to replicate a solid-roof car model, I'd suggest a good liquid cement for styrene--Methyl Ethyl Ketone works the best, as once it's dry, that joint will be as close to as solid as the surrounding styrene. Alclad markets small bottles of MEK; Hobby Lobby (n their model kit & supply department) carries this, as do many hobby shops and mail-order houses that cater to plastic model builders. Art
  2. Resin Casting

    As for the resin, nothing beats Urethane resin--which is what most all professional aftermarket model car resin-casters use.
  3. Resin Casting

    Professional resin-casters do use vacuum chambers, but only for "degassing" the Silicone RTV rubber after mixing in the catalyst (that rubber is almost like a moderately thick pancake batter in its liquid form. Air bubbles in the cured resin, if close enough to the surface of the master, can actually "bulge', as virtually all catalyzed RTV Rubber shrinks ever so slightly in volume, giving pressure to any airpocket or bubble (if close to the surface of the mold "cavity", even a small, trapped airbubble can actually force a "dent" into the surface of the casting. You may be confusing a vacuum chamber with a pressure chamber or pot though. Professional casters (and I was one for 12 years) use pressure chambers to hold two-part molds in, while the resin itself cures and hardens--that goes a long, LONG way toward eliminating tiny airbubbles against the surfaces of the mold cavity, which will appear as anything from almost miniscule "pin holes" to rather serious gaps. I used to use Campbell-Hausfeld pressure pots that were manufactured for propelling paint into spray guns, for the likes of painting houses and other buildings The ones I had were rated to 150psi, but I set the pressure regulator on my shop aircompressor tank at 75 psi, which left me a considerable "safe zone", and yet did the job of crushing small airbubbles into oblivion before the resin hardened. Art
  4. Residue from decal solution

    Gelatin is what, at least, was used as the adhesive for Decals--going all the way back to the invention the stuff over a century ago. And guess what? We are both right and both a bit incorrect! Animal hide glue (Gelatin) has been used, modern decal adhesive starts with a layer of glucose (sugar) to give the decal the ability to slide easily into place, with dextrose (corn sugar) on top of that, to increase the adhesion! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_slide_decal Art
  5. Residue from decal solution

    Just another thought here: Seeing the pics of your model, and such decals that were applied, those were going on over fairly smooth surfaces, with no "raised" details? If so, WHY even think of using anything as a decal setting solution? Beginning with the legendary Solvaset (which was first marketed in the middle-to-late 1950's) which gained popularity with model railroaders who were building, painting and decaling RR cars and such, with incredibly sharp raised and/or recessed details on them. Solvaset is little more than Isopropyl Alcohol, which will soften the lacquer-based decal film, and is intended to allow the decal to "snuggle down" over raised and/or recessed surface detailing, which the water used to dissolve the gelatin adhesive (yes, water-slide decal adhesive is nothing more sophisticated than unflavored gelatin, same stuff we get sweetened and flavored -- "There's always room for Jell-O"!!). While nearly 100% pure isopropyl alcohol will soften and strip most any hobby paint from a surface, lower concentrations tend not to do that. For example, rather than buying any of the pre-packaged decal setting solutions, I've used simply 70% rubbing alcohol since at least the late 1960's (even have used a Kleenex soaked in aftershave lotion in a pinch on occasion!). Unfortunately, a great many modelers use decal setting solutions of various brands on decals that are being applied to smooth surfaces having little if any raised or recessed detail, apparently in the mistaken belief that this will increase the adhesion of the decal, which it doesn't--that's the job of the gelatin adhesive. The problem lies not with any residue from the decal setting solution you used, but rather what the solution did to the "Pledge With Future Shine" you used as a clear coat--I'm a crew leader for a custodial crew where I work, and the floor strippers we use contain Isopropyl alcohol and believe me, that stuff will soften water-born acrylic floor polish in perhaps a minute or so off of Terrazzo, even off of vinyl floor tile. My advice: First, clear coat, if you prefer using whatever type/brand, should be the very last thing applied, AFTER decals are on, and the gelatin adhesive is dry (bear in mind, it has to evaporate from around the edges of the decal, as water vapor will not penetrate the decal itself in order to evaporate---let the project sit for at least a couple of days after the last decal is on, THEN clear coat over the entire surface. Art
  6. Okey Spaulding - Mr. Johan

    I'll do some checking with our show chairman and get back here, as it if Okey will be at our Lafayette Miniature Car Club contest this coming Saturday (August 18) Art
  7. Simple, an Xacto or Zona Razor Saw! Art
  8. That Duesenberg Model J Coupe was cast, by me, in resin from a master created by Lee. It's a pretty cool piece. And that Duesenberg farm truck--that was inspired by a real Duesenberg truck conversion, done in 1942, by a fairly wealthy man in rural Ilinois, not far from Chicago, who had owned the car since new circa 1930. He had the conversion done, so that he could still drive the Duesenberg, get tires for it even, as a farmer's truck--since he owned a farm himself! Art
  9. Ever hear of using a toothbrush and soapy water? That works, been doing it for nearly 60 yrs now, every time I try it. Art
  10. TROG true Gentleman's car

    I've thought about that, but unsure how well it might blend with the rather tapered trunk lid shspe of the AMT Black Force, which is where I started on this one. Art
  11. Thinning Paint

    I use common ordinary lacquer thinner, from Walmart's paint department for all oil-based enamels, and of course lacquers, for airbrushing, and have for over 50 years, always with great results.
  12. TROG true Gentleman's car

    Still trying to decide just what to do for the spare tire (or dual spares), fender well, or out back.
  13. I have no idea as to the actual air pressure, as I do not have a pressure guage (never ever felt the need for one, still don't(. I merely open up the petcock on the bottom of my moisture trap (It's the old-fashioned Binks water trap from 55 yrs ago, has a threaded "drain valve" on the bottom ) until no spray, then adjust it to lowest pressure spraying by closing it. I've been using the technique I described, for at least 50 years now, and it's never failed me. Art
  14. Chris, I have used Duplicolor lacquers for decades now, to paint model car bodies. Here is what I have discovered, that works for me EVERY time I do it: First thing, is thinned paint (which in this case is lacquer): I decant a quantity of the lacquer into my airbrush color jar (in my case, the 3/4 fluid oz jar for my Paasche H airbrush), and then add common lacquer thinner (which I get at Walmart), cap the jar, and gently shake to mix thoroughly. When I see that the lacquer (be it the Dupicolor primer or my color coat(s) "sheets" down the inside of the clear glass bottle just as 2% milk does on the inside of a glass tumbler, it's thinned well enough. Next, I hook up the airbrush to my air line, fire up my compressor, then do a test shot of spray--after which I bleed off air by opening the petcock at the bottom of my moisture trap (the same can be done by stopping down a pressure regulator) until I get just a very soft spray. After adjusting the spray pattern to what I want, I then airbrush this very thinned lacquer (first primer, then color) up close, about an inch or so off the surface of the model car body or parts in question. I have come to call my method "TSC" for "Thin, Soft and Close". Now with the first passes on a body shell with this lacquer & thinner mix, you will notice a VERY fine "crazing" of the plastic surface, more like a light "frosting" of the surface. However, this is VERY minor, in my experience, and by the third pass or so around and over a body shell, it goes away completely, while giving me a surface that still shows all that cool, fine raised detail we pay good money for. Once I am satisfied with the primer surface, and i've given it a bit of a polish with say, a 5000 grit piece of emery cloth, and washed away all residues with toothbrush and good old Dial Soap (scraps of which I always seem to have at my hand sink--rinsed thoroughly (!), I then blow-dry the body shell and any associated separate panels with my airbrush hose, and then repeat the process with the color coats. TSC has worked like a charm for me, since the very early 1970's, when I learned to do it by experimentation. Art
  15. Yes. Those blow-molded soda bottles are made from a clear plastic called "PET-G", which is completely different than the polystyrene we know as the material for molding model car kits. Art