Yes, there was! Ideal Toy Corporation did a very nice '56 Lincoln Continental MkII in 1/20 scale back in the day. It was actually quite accurate, with features not seen in a model car kit from anyone else for several years, such as opening doors, hood & trunk, plated parts. Trouble was, it was not only too expensive for most kids to buy on their own, along with being probably far too complicated for young hands to build. I've seen two of this one, both in the collection of the late Bill Harrison of Monta Vista California. One was the ITC "point of sale" builtup display piece, the other one Bill built up from the kit. These kits are quite rare today, seldom ever seen. Art
As for '32-'34 Ford roadster pickups, there is almost NO difference in the real 1:1 cabs. The '33-'34 Ford truck cabs were a continuation of the '32 unit, the only noticeable difference being that the '32 Closed Cab has an extra, wider raised rib around the back of its cab, which Ford added, due to sheet metal fatigue from having the back of the seat bolted to the sheet metal cab back. That extra raised rib would not show on the roadster pickup body. Art
It would, seeing as how the chrome tree for the '29 Pickup is markedly different from that in the '31 Sedan & '31 Station Wagon. The Winfield head (as with the Riley head stuff in the '31 kits) is an integral part of this parts tree.
120-degrees is right about the highest setting you can get from your water heater. Now, I have NEVER had straight hot water from the faucet EVER damage a styrene plastic model car body (although I would not expose a resin body to that temperature of water!). I've baked every model car body shell & hood I've done since I bought this dehydrator, and NEVER a single problem, even after forgetting, leaving a couple of them in the thing overnight. To my septegenerian mind (that's someone between the ages of 70 & 79 yrs old, OK?) it does seem to me that too many of us get far too technical, much too timid. Consider this, a plastic model kit can come out of the molds at or perhaps a degree or two below this temperature with no problems.
Moebius, Revell, and Round2, all three to be at the NNL Nationals this weekend (Friday & Saturday). Why not at "i Hobby"? I Hobby, just with what it was named previously, "RCHTA", is and always has been, oriented to the R/C hobby (it's manufacturers and wholesalers), with not all that much consumer traffic, and certainly not that much traffic for plastic model company's booths. I learned this back in the fall of 2004 when I was part of the RC2 display there, representing Johnny Lightning and Polar Lights (this was after RC2 had bought out Playing Mantis, the manufacturer of both JL and Playing Mantis kits). I stood around for two whole days, maybe talked with 50 interested retailer parties. This is also why Revell, and to an extent, Moebius and Round2 have set up at NNL-East, to interface directly with model car builders and enthusiasts who are, of course, the end-users, the consumers, of model car kits. In today's world, at least here in the US, it makes more sense to pitch new products, make new announcements directly to the hobby itself, in hopes of creating what economists have always called "Demand-Pull" interest (back in the days of HIAA, it was to create the other incentive, "Supply-Push" interest to hobby retailers and the wholesalers who were then prevalent, complete with "sell sheets" and catalogs for hobby shop owners to take back to their stores to entice you then-young model car builders, THEIR customers. That got followed up by "Demand-Pull" advertising in real car magazines, most notably the Petersen Publishing Company mags such as Rod & Custom, Car Craft, even Hot Rod Magazine. Unfortunately, the advertising rates in real car magazines have gone "Off the Charts" where model car kit mfr's are concerned--but with the spread of the Internet, the Web, and forums such as this one and others, better to go directly to the consumer (us modelers) whenever possible--the news of upcoming releases spread like wildfire! I'll see a lot of modelers, many of whom I've known for years, at Sylvania, where I'll be a guest of Moebius.
The only time I have ever used the oven in my kitchen stove was back in the day of ovens (stovetop too) relying on a pilot rather than electronic ignition. I found back then, that the pilot flame inside the oven maintained a constant 100F temperature, which is well within the range of safety for a plastic model kit body shell. Only disaster there was when my then-wife turned on the oven, without checking to see if anything was in there, with predictable results. I now use an Oster food dehydrator,which carries a constant 120 degree temperature, with a fan circulating air through it (in at the bottom, out at the top). It's worked without incident since 2010. Art
To carry this a bit further: My oldest nephew owns and operates the largest furniture restoration and custom cabinety/furniture shop here. For perhaps 20 yrs, he used an ordinary 30" exhaust fan in his spray booth (he shoots clear lacquers as the finish on his work), until about 2 years ago, the fire inspector walked in. End of that fan, enter a proper sealed and sparkless exhaust fan and hood due to fire regulations. Art
Stop for a moment, consider where in your house you will be doing this. If noise is a problem because your model room is in the house, then a good diaphragm compressor, such as the Badger 180-1 works quite well, as it is fairly quiet already, and by setting it on a cushion of some sort (mine has been used on an old beach towel, folded up to a pad about 2" thick, to prevent its "drumming" on the floor (l live in an upstairs apartment in a frame building, so this is important to keep the neighbors happy!) to silence it--and mine runs literally whisper-quiet. As for a pressure regulator, when I need to reduce the air pressure at the airbrush, I simply open the drain screw on my moisture trap just a little bit. Years of doing that by fit & feel gives me such control as I need. Another thing about moisture traps: While I know that a lot of folks mount those right at the compressor outlet, but consider that an airbrush hose is like a 6' cooling coil--air will come out of the compressor at least slightly warmed, and it cools quickly when moving through the airbrush hose--which can act as a condenser, allowing the potential of droplets of water reaching the airbrush head. I ran into that problem quickly with my first compressor back over 50 years ago. Solution? A second 6' hose, which runs from compressor to moisture trap (which I have hanging from a cup hook on the front of my painting workstand), with the airbrush hose connected to the outlet of the moisture trap. Even in the worst of humidity, never a problem with condensed water getting into my paint jobs since. As for the airbrush itself, if this is your first airbrush, you may want to think "simple". I would suggest any of the decent external mix airbrushes for that first one--simple because they are single action (the spray button controls only the airflow through the airbrush, the amount of paint emitted being something you pre-set your self. A double action airbrush will require learning a bit of coordination, which may or may not frustrate you. In addition, an external mix airbrush (such as Badger 350, Binks Wren, Paasche H-series--even Paasche now has a lower end, less expensive external mix unit that works exactly the same as their H, but lacks the braided hose in the package), as those all are very simple to disassemble for cleaning, and very easily adjustable for a beginner. And, you can learn to get great paintjobs with any of these as well. But all of this is your call, comes from my experience, and others may well differ in their opinions. But this type of system has served me very well down through the years. Art
It would be in either one, actually. When Revell did the '31 Model A kits back 50 years ago, they came with both the station wagon AND the Tudor sedan bodies, but with exactly the same chrome tree. Thus, that chrome tree is a part of any reissue of either body, considering that those are the only two 1931 Model A Fords ever done in 1/25 scale. Art
There is at least one video on Youtube about the original tunnels on the original stretch of the PA Turnpike as well--don't remember the name of it, but watched it a couple of months ago, interesting! Art