A window screen won't be strong enough to hold a dryer vent. You can, however, get a sheet of plywood, cut to the size of the window opening, figure out how to secure it in your "dormer-style window" (ask your Dad to help you with that), so that it can be removed when not painting. When you want to paint, simply crank the window open, insert that panel with your vent hose in it, make sure it's secure, and spray away! (Be sure to use a filter at the inside end of that hose if your spray booth doesn't already have one, to keep overspray "dust" from dirtying up the window glass, of course!) Art
In now nearly 45 yrs of using BMF on model cars (yes, the product's been around since 1971 or so!), I have never put a clear coat over the foil, which I have used on factory stock model cars, models of Indy cars (of which I built nearly 100 over about 15 yrs or so) and even used BMF to replicate factory-new aircraft in natural metal finishes. And, I have never experienced any wear and tear with the foil, save for a couple of display resin cars that got a LOT of handling over the years, and even that was easily repaired.
If you are seeing dimples in the casting, not at all likely those are from air bubbles, the most likely cause could be that the caster did not use a vacuum pump and chamber to draw all the air bubbles out of the rubber itself after mixing, but before pouring his molds. When this happens, the trapped air bubbles will expand if they are close to the surface of the master, as RTV rubber shinks ever so slightly as it cures, but those little air bubbles were mixed in at atmospheric pressure, so when the "hard support" of the nearby hard master is removed, the trapped air can and will expand, rasing a small "bump" on the inside surface of the mold--that translates into a dimple or small dent in the surface of the casting. Tthose "dimples" or small "depressions" in the surface (they look sorta like 1/25 scale hail damage, correct? If so, they can be filled with a touch of putty over the primer, and sanded smooth (but it's a PIA, I know that). The best resin casters, such as Modelhaus, or Detroit Resin Auto Group (there are others at their level as well) have invested some $$ in a proper vacuum pump and vacuum chambers which can pull mechanically perfect vacuums in mere minutes, which will draw literally all trapped air from the still liquid rubber--unfortunately many small, perhaps neophyte resin casters don't often go that far. Art
As Bill mentioned, pin holes in resin can happen due to improper mixing, which can stir air into the mixed, but uncured resin, but those generally are few and far between pinholes. If there are a LOT of pinholes,then more than likely the caster wasn't careful to keep his resin tightly covered in the bottles/jugs--THAT allows any moisture in the surrounding air to get into the resin itself (not the catalyst), which is fairly hygroscopic (meaning it readily attracts moisture)--that can actually make the mixed resin literally "foam" up if it's severe. The best resin-casters use a pressure pot or tank which can safely hold up to 75-100psi, as air compressed to that extent has the ability to crush any tiny bubbles down to insignicance (as those got stirred into the resin at the local atmospheric pressure, and once the casting is cured hard, those tiny bubbles will not return. The best way to fix pin holes that I found is to take a fresh #11 Xacto blade, and "twirl" it's sharp tip into the offending pin hole enough to just open it up--then fill the hole with a drop of gap-filling CA, followed by one of the various liquid accelerators. Once hard (which only takes a minute or so at the maximum) the CA "patches" can be sanded smooth--they will be about the same hardness of the surrounding polyurethane resin. Over a 12 year period, I produced hundreds of thousands of resin parts of all sizes--I think I learned a good bit doing it. Art
Considering the era when Go-Karts first became popular, they started out using either Briggs & Stratton or Clinton 4-cycle 1-cylinder engines (about 1956-57 or thereabouts)). By 1958 or so, 2-cycle engines became the standard if you wanted to be competitive, and that generally meant chain saw engines, either West Bend or McCulloch (they being the "Gold Standartd" back then. I believe the engine in the AMT "teaser" parts kit was a McCulloch. Art
Chances are, those tires are a harder compound of PVC, which was common with 50's promo's, even the '58-'59 AMT Annual Series 3in1 kits. However, that promo was probably molded in acetate plastic, given the shatter-proof qualities of acetate, as compared to the pure styrene that was the only styrene available in the early 50's. Art
Bill, the returnable (deposit bottles) beverage bottles went away perhaps 30 yrs ago, for several reasons: The cost of handling both at the retailers and the added fuel cost of the load going back to the bottling plant. Next, the demise of local bottling plants (your friendly local Coca-Cola bottler who had that really cool bottling line set up in the front window!) in favor of more regional distributors). And of course, health reasons--there was always the possibility of incomplete sanitation of reusable bottles, and that coupled with the rise of litigation for all manner of causes. This lead to the introduction of disposable glass bottles, which while recyclable, still added tare weight to the load of delivery trucks. Aluminum cans, of course are eminently recyclable (and in fact, several states require a deposit on all disposable beverage cans and bottles, helping to ensure that they will be turned in for recycling. The modern plastic beverage bottles are also quite recyclable, and being made of PET-G plastic, can be melted down, used for products way beyond just making new bottles out of them (for example, the so-called 'Micro-Fiber" cleaning tools (mops, dust and polishing cloths, dusting wands are very commonly made from micro-fibers spun from recycled PET-G). An added plus is the much lighter weight of a plastic beverage or water bottle, meaning that the delivery truck can carry more product for the same weight of cargo. Art
I have a Pace Peacemaker, which has a squirrel-cage blower and exhaust setup to extract overspray and paint fumes out of the house, through a window. To set this up, I simply bought a clothes dryer exhaust hose & vent kit (any hardware store or lumberyard will have this!), and a precut plywood shelf, that I cut down to fit the width of the window frame. Using a hole saw sized for the vent, I simply cut a hole in that plywood, installed the exterior dryer vent,installed that, then hooked up the dryer hose to my spray booth outlet and the dryer vent. When I need to paint something, it's as simple as opening the window,placing that plywood "plug" in the opening, then closing the sash down on top of it to secure the plug, turn on the exhaust blower and spray away. I NEVER get any paint fumes in my model room (I have an apartment in an older house which has a common HVAC system, and two apartments downstairs (occupied by elderly women with sensitive noses), and they've never noticed a hint of paint fumes. Art
For that matter, I too have great results decanting all Tamiya lacquer colors (TS-13 is simply their lacquer with no pigment added), and airbrushing it. However, due to the nearest hobby shop that stocks any Tamiya paint at all being an hour or more away, I simply use "Kleen Strip" lacquer thinner, which I can get at WalMart, Meijer, even a few paint stores here--it's never failed me yet! Art
When I need to set aside small parts (such as wheels, engine components, lenses and the like, NOTHING beats the inexpensive small (approx. 2" square) medication zip-lock plastic bags from Walgreen's or any good pharmacy. They even come with a printed white "box" on them for writing down what's in the bag, and what model they go to. These can then be put into multiple drawer cabinets or other storage systems. Art
Exactly. With inflation, not everything goes up in price of course, and those things that do don't all go up at the same rate. It's the same with deflation (drop in prices), as not everything can, or will go down in price, and certainly those that drop don't necessarily go down at the same rate as well. With a model kit, tooling is by far and away the biggest single check any manufacturer writes, and that money simply has to be replenished back into the "kitty" so as to be there to fund the tooling for the next kit, so right there is a cost that simply has to be recovered in order to move forward. Tooling costs and certainly manufacturing costs don't drop due to the decline in oil prices, in fact they are still rising.
Well, the cost of oil is but a portion of the cost of manufacturing styrene plastic, and the cost of styrene used in the molding of model kits folks. It's pretty much the same with the price of those little glass bottles that Testors uses to package paint in--oil is only a portion of the feedstock for that enamel--in fact the single biggest cost there is the glass bottle. Art