Art Anderson

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About Art Anderson

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  • Scale I Build 1/25

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  1. Art Anderson added a post in a topic AMT 61 Impala   

    Correct!  That is an Impala--I forgot that the bubble top was an Impala feature for 1961.
  2. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Air brush paint   

    Any paint that can be thinned can be sprayed through an airbrush, plain and simple. 
    Art Anderson
  3. Art Anderson added a post in a topic AMT 61 Impala   

    It's the Lindberg '61 Bel Air HT, in an AMT box.
  4. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Just a thought about 3D printing   

    About the only problem I can see with doing all the drive train components for a NAPCO 4wd setup for that '66 Suburban, would be that when 3D printing such parts, UNLESS the resolution of the printer itself is quite fine (as in very THIN layers),  those parts can come out looking as if they were made from rather well-worn wood, due to their rounded, rod- or tubular-shapes.  Having evaluated just about every Moebius tooling mockup (and those are done in 3D printed form),  it's pretty hard at times, to judge such parts for their correctness, their accuracy.
    NAPCO, a St. Paul MN auto parts house, created the 4WD setups for GM Truck back in the 50's and 60's,  working with available axles, differentials, transfer cases and driveshafts, as a "parts kit" that GM assembly workers could simply bolt into place.  Some research would be advisable as to just whose components NAPCO used for their conversion parts kits sold to GM for 4WD vehicles--quite probably they are out there in model kit form someplace, or at least can be worked up from available model kit parts for use as masters for resin casting.
  5. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Who has Converted 2 door models into 4 door cars?   

    I've done a few 4dr conversions over the years as well.  Key is to know the length (front to rear) of the front doors, as with a 4dr sedan, the B-post is almost always farther forward than on a 2dr sedan.   Once one has that measurement, the rest is actually quite easily accomplished--which of course includes making the appropriate front bench seat, and moving the "door lines" on the interior side panels, and adding the extra door handles (and in a few instances, moving the rear window cranks))
  6. Art Anderson added a post in a topic “Chrome” edges around the “wheel well”.   

  7. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Spray paint and sanding help?   

    Steve, I was first introduced (like many modelers my age) to "Wet-or-Dry" sandpaper WAY back in the early 60's when AMT Corporation put out their line of "Styline" kits, model cars with a tube of putty and a small sheet of 400-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper (the black stuff used to this very day in autobody shops everywhere.  I always keep a pack of 3M 400-grit sandpaper in stock in my model room to this very day.  I simply cut it into smaller sheets, which I then fold with a sharp crease, and use wet on a model car body, to gently remove mold parting lines (those often raised, sharp lines where the different mold sections have to come together on a model car body, in order to mold it as a one-piece unit.   (Bear in mind, that in order to make a one-;piece plastic body in styrene, it takes a minimum of SIX mold sections, which "slide together" as the mold closes up, to make that body.  It's much like looking at a cube, or a rectangular box:  a mold section to make the upper surfaces, a right side mold, a left side mold, a front end mold a rear end mold, and the sixth one to make the inside of the body shell.  No matter the manufacturer, this practice does not change--only the precision (or seeming lack thereof will change).  Now, with most all modern-made model kits  the parting lines (where those mold sections must meet and close up tightly) will be there, and they will show, of course, through a paint job unless removed.  This means working often in tight places, which is why I use small bits of 400 grit to get at those.  It also means working carefully, sometimes quite delicately, so that I don't damage or remove the raised detailing that I paid good money to get in the first place--just the offending, but necessarily present, mold lines.
    Sometimes, particularly with older kits, those tooled in years past, before truly modern toolmaking reached the model kit industry as it is today, there may be places where the tool sections do not meet up exactly precisely, meaning there can be some misalignment (if this is the case, that's were a set of really decent "needle files" can come in handy--but again, planning, and learning to work very delicately has to come in!), and there may be a bit of putty work needed sometimes as well.  Again,think about how to work putty in small areas  (I use the very smallest artist's painting knife I can find (my current painting knife, in stainless steel, as a blade shaped much like a miniature masonry trowel, is polished stainless steel, and was milled to a tapered thickness, which gives it a good bit of "springiness" which I find both advantageous and critical!  Its nose or front tip is rounded as well.  Where to find one?  Look no farther than the art supply section of Hobby Lobby or Michael's, or any good local art supply store--those painting knives will be right there in with the artist's oil paints or acrylic artist's colors (the stuff in those little "toothpaste" like tubes--I paid less than $10 for the one I use, but that was about 10 years ago now--might be a bit higher these days.  For putty, I prefer autobody spot n glaze putty, the one-part lacquer-based putty, found in the autobody supply sections in most Big Box stores, or if you have a professional level auttobody supply store (I have one about 6 blocks from my home), and some lacquer thinner (I use Kleen Strip from Walmart, and a small jar (a glass baby food jar works great!), for cleaning up my painter's knife after each use). Let that putty dry hard, then sand smooth.
    Long-winded, yes I know, but this is stuff I've learned how to use and how to do, over now more than 50 years of building model cars.
    Art Anderson
  8. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Tools for lathe work?   

    To add some to this discussion:  I bought my Sherline lathe in 1981, and have used it many times--it had to have a motor and speed control transplant about 10 years ago, and what a difference the new digital speed controller makes (the original used a speed control that worked with electronic "spikes" to get lower speeds).   As Pete and others have repeatedly said here, "cheap is as cheap does"  No matter how precise a Jacobs chuck you fit to your electric drill, without any sort of FIXED tool post, you can never get anything like precisely turned metal parts with a drill clamped into a vise (many have tried and failed--and that includes ME.  As currently upgraded, my Sherline lathe (and the Sherline mill I added in 2008) will last me the rest of my natural days, to the end of the time when I can still build model cars.
    If the price of a new one seems out of your league right now, keep your eyes and ears open--many of these lathes have been bought over hte past 35-40 years, and their original owners in many cases have reached the age where they've had to give up doing this sort of fine metalworking, be it for models, or other pursuits--so they do come up at estate sales, even garage sales and flea markets.  One thing for sure though is, any part or accessory for current Sherlines will fit the originals--if any doubt, a phone call to Sherline (they are located in the LA area out in California) will get you the needed advice.
    Sure the price of entry is up there--that first part turned  costs the initial price paid for the equipment (just as it does with an airbrush outfit), but with each additional part made, the price per part drops, and so on.  But the value of of the project made is way up there, in terms of the horizons opened by having that machine at your disposal for whatever and whenever!
  9. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Ferguson Tractor from Heller   

    The "original" that keeps being mentioned was by Airfix, back a good 60 years ago, and was molded in acetate plastic, which warped like crazy over time.  In addition, it was nowhere NEAR as detailed as the new Heller kit appears to be.
  10. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Duplicolor primers too hot for current-production kits?   

    's funny, as I have used Duplicolor primer on all of my builds for years, INCLUDING modern-made kits done in that "new-improved trash plastic, with no problems at all.
  11. Art Anderson added a post in a topic AMT '77 Pacer Wagon - a new loser out of box!   

    It would be doubtful, as originally, the Pacer sedan was tooled and produced by MPC, while the station wagon was an AMT tool.
  12. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Engine with no cam!!   

    Actually, I believe that at least one of the very first automobile engines was a 2-cycle.
  13. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Duplicolor primers too hot for current-production kits?   

    Bill, and everyone else:   I guess I should add a bit of my rationale here, in addition to having explained my concept of "TSC" as posted above in this thread!   In short, I shoot (no pun intended!) for "maximum coverage with minimal paint"--essential, or so it seems to me, when dealing with painting in 1/25 scale, for realistic finishes.  I'm not going for "Best Paint" awards, hence my distaste" for that "dipped in syrum" look.   Now, if you think of it, a rattle can nozzle (be it on a can meant for painting on 1:1 car surfaces, or on a 1/25 scale model car body--is about as delicate as trying to paint a real car body with a freakin' firehose!  That's what got me into airbrusing in the first place, WAY back in January1962!   While of course, at that time, I was more worried about getting nice paint jobs with the likes of Pactra "Soft-Spray" hobby enamels, the same principal applies even more when using automotive lacquers.  Sure, there will be minute crazing even with an airbrush--but that's much more like very fine "frosting" of the surface with the first pass or so, than serious crazing which can rival the skin of a 120-yr old man with a serious skin disease (OK, so I exaggerate a bit here!).  SERIOUSLY, the only time I have ever had to deal with that sort of crazing with Duplicolor or other lacquer primer on styrene, was when I painted a Gunze-Sangyo BMW Isetta body that was molded ENTIRELY in clear styrene (which is by its nature, the purest form of styrene of polystyrene there is.  Here is the final result, once I figured out how to proceed--perhaps the proof that my TSC philosophy does work for me, first time, EVERY TIME:  Please note that this pic was shot in 2003, with my first (and very primitive) digital camera--but if you really look closely, you will not see any crazing in that surface!  It's all a matter of stopping, thinking, and figuring out how to use so-called "Hot Lacquers" on "craze-sensitive" styrene surfaces.  I think this model speaks for itself as to how possible it is to use even the hottest lacquers on even pure styrene.

  14. Art Anderson added a post in a topic 1948 Chevy Panel Truck   

    Very nice indeed, but that's NOT a Panel Truck--Panel Trucks were based on the pickup truck chassis and bodywork.  This one is, on the other hand, a Sedan Delivery--which is passenger car based.
  15. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Least popular kits   

    Actually, the AMT Thomas Flyer made it through two releases!   AMT Corporation, of course, and then Lesney-AMT did a reissue.  Bear in mind, however that model companies almost NEVER give out production or sales numbers (unless for bragging rights), there is virtually NO WAY that anyone outside of those manufacturers, along with a few wholesaler executives, who would have even any idea.   On the other hand, it took Revell-Monogram SEVERAL years to sell out all the '64 Thunderbolt kits that they produced in just the initial run.  That was related to me by the late Bill Lastovich (a friendship of mine that carried over about 25 years, including both his career at Trost Modelcraft & Hobbies (the original full-line hobby wholesaler beginning in 1932)  to shortly before his passing.