Art Anderson

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About Art Anderson

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  • Scale I Build 1/25

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  1. Art Anderson added a post in a topic TONKA #7018 1913 Model T "Four-Alarm Call" 1/24   

    Those TONKA "Diorama" kits were very well done--particularly for their time, if a bit simplified (the Tonka Model T vis-a-vis AMT's 1925 T kit for example).  Sadly, they were somewhat a "fish out of water" in the marketplace--kits that really didn't fit the model car kit market at the time (1974 was the beginning of the end of model cars as THE "thing" for kids to build, and the large "migration" back to our boyhood hobby of the 50's and 60's had not yet really taken hold), making this series  of historical model kits one which really had no clear market.  Had those kits been introduced a mere 10 to 15 years later, things may well have been markedly different.
    Those Tonka diorama model kits languished on hobby wholesaler shelves well into the middle 1980's--I was picking them up at distressed market prices from a couple of hobby wholesalers in Chicago for half their original dealer cost in the middle 80's, for my own hobby shop, the "Model Maker", the 1980's being still before closeout stores the likes of Big Lots/Odd Lots and Ollie's came on the scene.
    Still though, even though Mattel has owned the TONKA brand for a couple of decades now, I wonder if the tooling for these kits still exists?
    Art
  2. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Container for Soaking in Super Clean   

    I simply use an ordinary polyethylene plastic 2-quart iced tea pitcher which has a lid that snaps on very snugly.  I've had Purple Power in that for over a year, with no effects whatsoever on the pitcher!
    Art
  3. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Promo disassembly question.   

    1968 Promo's were molded in ABS plastic, and parts such as the interior (and it's components) and the glass were secured with a liquid cement.  You may have to do some careful cutting with a Dremel tool for disassembly.
    Art
  4. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Why no kit plating chrome?   

    Actually, you can get that electro-conductive precoat from Eastwood.
  5. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Why no kit plating chrome?   

    Joe, electroplaing can be done on plastic--it was done way back in the 1950's and even into the 60's, on the likes of dashboard and gearshift knobs--and as well on the grilles & bumpers of those high-end diecast model cars and pickups from the likes of Franklin & Danbury Mints.   All that is needed is a pre-coating  of an electro-conductive material onto the raw plastic parts--and that stuff IS available in small quantities even today.
    Art
  6. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Why no kit plating chrome?   

    BUT, Spaz Stix, while great, does NOT provide the absolute mirror finish that vacuum-plating does.   BTW, have you ever considered the tabletop chromium electroplating kits that are out there, Harry, from the likes of say, Eastwood?
    Art
  7. Art Anderson added a topic in Car Kit News & Reviews   

    Scoping out the 3rd round test shots of the Moebius '65 Comet Cyclone.....
    And, I hadda stop, change my shirt due to the drool!  This one is simply great--and I am not being biased when I say it.  I'm lovin' it.  Guys, I don't think it's gonna be very much longer now!
    Art
     
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  8. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Making AMT's original '57 Chevy more accurate   

    One thing to bear in mind:  Many cars of the 50's and 60's were actually slightly wider at the rear than at the front, for two reasons:  1)  Stability at highway speeds--as having the body sides tapering ever so slightly outward toward the reat aided stabilty at highway speeds, and 2) this feature also greatly reduced "wind noise" by minimizing "the buffeting" of turbulent air against the side panes of the body and rear quarter panels--in  addition to minimizing the "oil can effect" which was the larger expanse of largly unsupoorted sheet metal from "drumming" due the eddying of air down the sides of the car at speed.
    Art
  9. Art Anderson added a post in a topic smbc status   

    Jeff, I'm so sad to read this--I know how close all of you at DRAG have been--Having some of Paul's creations--his talent and artistry will be sorely missed.  PEACE, my friend.
    Art
  10. Art Anderson added a post in a topic ford flathead 4 banger question   

    Also, bear in mind the firing order of a Model A or Model B:  1-3-4-2
     
    Art
  11. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Where is Round 2 manufacturing their kits?   

    AMT and MPC kits have been molded in China since the late 1990's.
  12. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Where is Round 2 manufacturing their kits?   

    Roger, unfortunately, "tooling corrections" are not easily done, given that injection molding tooling such as for model kits is generally tool steel, case-hardened.  In addition, most of the AMT (and MPC) tooling was created from information gotten several decades ago, probably no longer exists, and if it did, pretty much unusable in today's digital world of making model car kit tooling.  Frankly, it would be less expensive to just do the particular subject all over again--but then would that new issue sell well enough to pay for it>
    Also, bear in mind, that as late as the 1970's, most all model car kits were being produced for a much younger audience--median age perhaps 12 or 13,  quite different market that what exists today (all us 12yr olds somehow managed to survive to become grown-ups   )
    Art
  13. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Where is Round 2 manufacturing their kits?   

    All those old Lindberg kits (save for the Mopars that Lindberg did back 20-some yrs ago, and still very good kis) were molded in a factory in Northern lower Michigan, when the brand was owned by Jody Keener--who ran the stuff into the ground.
    Round2's AMT etc. stuff is being molded in China nowadays.
    Art
  14. Art Anderson added a post in a topic When did color fall out of favor?   

    To bring this thread back into perspective:  With every age group, every generation--many things come in, and go out of favor--and that includes car colors.  While many of us can wax fondly about the cars, and their colors, of our youth, the real truth is, "Time Marches On" and for many of us here (I'm 72 yrs old--an old fart to most of you!) time has marched well on over the years.
    The upside?  We as model car builders CAN relive those times of yore, of our youth, in miniature, and in some cases for those with the $$, in a restored or rebuilt car from your youth), by building models of the cars we remember, in the COLORS we remember.
    But to criticize automakers for their following the whims of consumers?  Uh, A silly, eccentric Spaniard went jousting at windmills centuries ago, at least in an early novel--and all he got was a windmill blade upside the head.
    Art
  15. Art Anderson added a post in a topic woodgrain   

    Not to mention that the tape itself will be WAY too thick to look right on a 1/25 scale model (think door lines here).  I've done some wood-graining on model cars before--it's NOT at all hard! I used a tan paint (Testors gloss Wood Tan) and once that dried, used some artist's oil paint (the stuff that comes in tubes!) and simply streaked that over the tan paint with some of those little foam "eye shadow" applicators you can find in the cosmetics section at any drugstore or Big Box store (got mine at my local Walgreen's). With artist's oil paints, you DO have to wait for several days after application for the stuff to dry--it does not dry by evaporation, as it's linseed oil based--linseed oil has to "oxidize" by reaction with the oxygen in the air--but once it's dried, l I coated it with Tamiya Clear Yellow, to give it a rich, warm look.  For the darker, mahogany panels on woodie station wagons, I would use Testors Brown gloss enamel, and streak on one of the darker brown oil paint.
    Art