Not sure what style of airbrush you are using, but I still use an external-mix airbrush (mine is a Paasche H, but Badger 350 & Binks Wren use the very same design concept), and if I have to stop painting for more than a few seconds, I simply close the material control (the cone-shaped sleeve that threads on the "needle". Another possible cause for the problem you describe could be not thinning the lacquer enough. Lacquers can stand being thinned a good bit more than enamels--I use the "consistency" of 2% milk as my standard, by eyeball--see how it "sheets" down the inside of my glass color jar. Another little trick I use is to lower the air pressure used just a little bit, and opening up my material control, which allows a bit more paint flow while the lower air pressure allows me to move in a good bit closer to the work. It's sort of getting a wet paint surface but without blotting the paint on so heavily that it quickly runs or sags. Just a few thoughts on this.
Consider that the owner of Round2 invested a TON of money to buy up all those existing AMT, MPC, Ertl and Lindberg tools--surely he'd like to recoup that investment by reissuing such kits as can be made from them, before sinking any significant funds into new tooling. Art
Believe me, no model company spokesperson in his right mind would even hint at interest in any particular suggestion from any of us. Why? Because to do so would almost surely spread like wildfire "(fill in any name here) hinted that such and such is gonna be made" when in fact more than likely no such thing was intended. In addition, there are very good reasons for confidentiality in any business, and nowhere is it any more true than in regard to potential product subjects--to violate that would be incredibly stupid, possibly 'tip" that company's hand This is precisely why, for example, the real world automakers guard their potential product ideas most carefully. Any employee who would violate that confidentiality would do so at the very real risk of his/her job, not only with that company, but more than likely with any future job prospects. 'Nuff said. Art
All of this brings up a SERIOUS safety issue! When aerosol (spray) cans of everything came into being,the propellant was Freon (a refrigerant), but Freon (a nastly CFC compound known to be bad for the environment) was banned over 20 years ago. Most, if not all, modern aerosols use PROPANE as their propellant. As almost everyone here knows, propane is a flammable gas, and if suddenly released in the presence of an open flame, will explode rather violently. I would never EVER attempt to warm up a spray can over an open flame at any time, PERIOD. Art
From their inception at GM in 1950, and out to the middle 1960's, hardtops were little more than convertible bodies with a steel top welded in place--look at any 50's hardtop that's had the interior stripped out of it, and you will see the locating points for the convertible top mechanism, and even the mounting points for the locking handles for the top in the windshield header. Art
Do you mean for the vertical stakes? All the ones I have ever seen were/are "Hat Section" rolled steel, rather than a simple T-bar. I have made those by using two different widths of Evergreen styrene, laminated together, to make a scale hat-section.
Simple answer: Convertible kits were nowhere nearly as popular back when those kits were produced--lots of leftover stock every model year--prime candidates for downtown sidewalk sales. Same with building them.
Steve, this comes from my 30 years behind the counter in a couple of hobby shops. Trust me, convertible kits as we know them, never did sell in nearly the same numbers as their hardtop stablemates (but then, neither did they in the 1:1 world either.