Something to keep in mind with old kits such as the Pyro Auburn: Any kit molded from tooling made 50-60 years ago is going to reflect both the state of the art for the year(s) in which it was tooled, as well as reflecting the expected market at that time for such a kit. As such, with the Pyro/Lifelike/Lindberg Auburn, "Suddenly it's 1955 again!". At that time, just three companies had adopted the multiple sliding core molds necessary for producing realistic model car bodies: AMT, Product Miniatures Company and JoHan. Everyone else in the plastic model kit industry was using the basic, simple 2-sided molds which required laying out the kit so as to assemble the body from individual panels. The expected market for plastic model kits in 1955? Kids, specifically from about 8 or 9, to perhaps 11 or 12 (their older brothers were (if they build any models) more oriented to balsa "stick & tissue" airplanes, with some of them into gas powered control line flying airplanes. The predominant subject matter for plastic model kits in 1955? Models of military airplanes, from WW-II to the then very exciting USAF Century Series fighters; although there were some ship models, notably the highly popular and desired Revell USS Missouri, followed by their liner the SS United States. Model cars actually started out on hobby shop shelves as more or less an afterthought--definitely in the minority. How can I offer this set of observations? Simply put, I was there, an 11yr old 6th grader in 1955, haunting the two hobby shops that existed here in those years, yearning for anything new in a model car kit (I built aircraft, even a few ships, but cars were what I wanted back then). Art
On one spoon test, I used a mix of Tamiya's dark blue with some of their Silver Leaf mixed in. This went on as a flat finish metallic blue. Once I hit it with the C1, it turned to a really nice darker grey metallic, pretty close to the color and scale texture of grey cast metal. Art
Tom, I had to make the rear doors after all the bodywork, as there is some blending that has to be done, not to mention that on the "Tonneau" part of the body (rear seat area), the doors are positioned differently than they are up front, albeit slightly so. Art
Yes, there was! Ideal Toy Corporation did a very nice '56 Lincoln Continental MkII in 1/20 scale back in the day. It was actually quite accurate, with features not seen in a model car kit from anyone else for several years, such as opening doors, hood & trunk, plated parts. Trouble was, it was not only too expensive for most kids to buy on their own, along with being probably far too complicated for young hands to build. I've seen two of this one, both in the collection of the late Bill Harrison of Monta Vista California. One was the ITC "point of sale" builtup display piece, the other one Bill built up from the kit. These kits are quite rare today, seldom ever seen. Art
As for '32-'34 Ford roadster pickups, there is almost NO difference in the real 1:1 cabs. The '33-'34 Ford truck cabs were a continuation of the '32 unit, the only noticeable difference being that the '32 Closed Cab has an extra, wider raised rib around the back of its cab, which Ford added, due to sheet metal fatigue from having the back of the seat bolted to the sheet metal cab back. That extra raised rib would not show on the roadster pickup body. Art
It would, seeing as how the chrome tree for the '29 Pickup is markedly different from that in the '31 Sedan & '31 Station Wagon. The Winfield head (as with the Riley head stuff in the '31 kits) is an integral part of this parts tree.
120-degrees is right about the highest setting you can get from your water heater. Now, I have NEVER had straight hot water from the faucet EVER damage a styrene plastic model car body (although I would not expose a resin body to that temperature of water!). I've baked every model car body shell & hood I've done since I bought this dehydrator, and NEVER a single problem, even after forgetting, leaving a couple of them in the thing overnight. To my septegenerian mind (that's someone between the ages of 70 & 79 yrs old, OK?) it does seem to me that too many of us get far too technical, much too timid. Consider this, a plastic model kit can come out of the molds at or perhaps a degree or two below this temperature with no problems.
Moebius, Revell, and Round2, all three to be at the NNL Nationals this weekend (Friday & Saturday). Why not at "i Hobby"? I Hobby, just with what it was named previously, "RCHTA", is and always has been, oriented to the R/C hobby (it's manufacturers and wholesalers), with not all that much consumer traffic, and certainly not that much traffic for plastic model company's booths. I learned this back in the fall of 2004 when I was part of the RC2 display there, representing Johnny Lightning and Polar Lights (this was after RC2 had bought out Playing Mantis, the manufacturer of both JL and Playing Mantis kits). I stood around for two whole days, maybe talked with 50 interested retailer parties. This is also why Revell, and to an extent, Moebius and Round2 have set up at NNL-East, to interface directly with model car builders and enthusiasts who are, of course, the end-users, the consumers, of model car kits. In today's world, at least here in the US, it makes more sense to pitch new products, make new announcements directly to the hobby itself, in hopes of creating what economists have always called "Demand-Pull" interest (back in the days of HIAA, it was to create the other incentive, "Supply-Push" interest to hobby retailers and the wholesalers who were then prevalent, complete with "sell sheets" and catalogs for hobby shop owners to take back to their stores to entice you then-young model car builders, THEIR customers. That got followed up by "Demand-Pull" advertising in real car magazines, most notably the Petersen Publishing Company mags such as Rod & Custom, Car Craft, even Hot Rod Magazine. Unfortunately, the advertising rates in real car magazines have gone "Off the Charts" where model car kit mfr's are concerned--but with the spread of the Internet, the Web, and forums such as this one and others, better to go directly to the consumer (us modelers) whenever possible--the news of upcoming releases spread like wildfire! I'll see a lot of modelers, many of whom I've known for years, at Sylvania, where I'll be a guest of Moebius.
The only time I have ever used the oven in my kitchen stove was back in the day of ovens (stovetop too) relying on a pilot rather than electronic ignition. I found back then, that the pilot flame inside the oven maintained a constant 100F temperature, which is well within the range of safety for a plastic model kit body shell. Only disaster there was when my then-wife turned on the oven, without checking to see if anything was in there, with predictable results. I now use an Oster food dehydrator,which carries a constant 120 degree temperature, with a fan circulating air through it (in at the bottom, out at the top). It's worked without incident since 2010. Art