Cars of the era of the Willys-Overland Model 77 were still using composite bodies, of wood structure with sheet metal skin--the so-called "turret top" (one piece sheetmetal top stamping) didn't arrive until GM introduced them across their line for 1936. So, with closed bodies such as the Willys Coupe, the center section of the roof was built wth ribs and a padded fabric that was waterproofed. Art
Nope, a '27 T Touring body won't do it, it's lines are way off. Two '25 T roadsters do work however, as that era touring car was the roadster bucket structure, with a tonneau section added on behind. I started this one that way: The front portion, including the roadster back panel is straight from the kit, with a tonneau (term for the rear seat section of a touring car built in this manner) was added by using another '25 T bucket, cut off at the "A-posts" (base of the windshield. I first cut into the rear corners of the firont roadster-based body section, to accept the sides of the second T-bucket flush with the sides of the front body portion. The rear of the second T bucket was cut, and widened, as this body (much like the '27) actually tapers out a bit wider toward the rear. After gluing the addtional body sides to the front portion, I simply cut a strip of .030" Evergreen sheet stock to make a filler for the new back of the Touring car's tonneau. The rest was simply a matter of blending the spliced body sides into a smooth straight panel. I then added the raised fake driver's side door moldings, as well as the raised door moldings for both sides of the rear body section, by making my own .020" half-round styrene strips, simply bending those to shape, attaching to the polyester body putty shape with some CA glue. A '27 T Touring DID contribute it's raised top however, with only minor tweaking needed to get it to fit. Pics to follow in next post.
I have the one from Flexi-File, and use it just as one uses a simple pipette in Chemistry class. I merely immerse mine into the bottle of liquid cement, and gently draw about half an inch of cement up into the glass tube by mouth, just as I learned to do in HS Chem class over 50 years ago. To prevent clogging, after each use, I simply re-immerse the tip in the bottle of cement, and gently blow the unused cement back into the bottle, once bubbles appear, I know that it's empty, and clean.
Yup, as a college student, out in Fairfield IA back in the 60's, I used to mail letters home from the Burlington RR station (just a block from my residence hall), by meeting the late mail train to Chicago, simply handing my letters to the clerk in the RPO (Mom wondered why the postmarks never said "Fairfield Iowa" though, the clerks carried their own cancellation rubber stamps from whatever town it was where they boarded the RPO). It was interesting too, handing a letter to a USPO clerk who packed a revolver on his hip! I also saw the nightly HWPO bus, in that case, it was a Fageol, which had the bodywork of a Fruehauf round-nosed semi-trailer with large arched windows for a windshield. Those ran both north and south on Iowa State Highway 1, through Fairfield, on the street out front of my res hall. Art
Rob, brass, with an inexpensive soldering pencil, and a Stay-Brite silver solder kit (silver solder plus the flux) is so EASY to use though! And in the bargain, it's not expensive, and far stronger than styrene. Art
Pretty simple, actually! I was 13, one sister 11 and the other one 9. I made a platform in Jr Hi shop class to lay across the floor in the back (level it out), and a "trundle bed" platform (where one half telescoped under the other, trundle bed style) that laid across the backs of both seats, each part wide enough for a single air mattress. Mom made a foam mattress for the platform across the floor--youngest sister camped out on that one, my other sister got to use the seat cushion. Above, I got one side, and either Mom or Dad got the other at night when whichever one was not driving (we did the trip straight through from IN to AZ). That all worked great, save for the moment when Mom mistook a string of Christmas lights (this was over Christmas 1957) in downtown Little Rock AR, realized that the traffic light had turned red at the last minute, stomped on the brake--I slid, ungracefully headfirst down into the front seat, then onto the floor, waking up next to the heater! . Later, it was pretty cool to turn around, put my face under that back window, and star-gaze (perfect for my astronomy lessons for 8th Grade Science (we kids had to take some homework with us, as we left a week before Christmas vacation!). I even had the assignment from Mom (to Dad's grumbling--he could never navigate worth a darn!) to read the maps, lay out the route, even calculating gas mileage (that Hornet averaged 20mpg, not bad for a Twin H-Power 7X!). Yes, those Hudson Hornets were that roomy! Art
The 4dr will happen, once the production kits are out.
Pics will follow, but I am having a blast working up this test shot--4dr sedan version of this one is the car my family took our definitive vacation to Arizona in, in December 1957, AND the car I took my Driver's License road test in, in August of 1960! Stay tuned, folks! Art
Not sure what style of airbrush you are using, but I still use an external-mix airbrush (mine is a Paasche H, but Badger 350 & Binks Wren use the very same design concept), and if I have to stop painting for more than a few seconds, I simply close the material control (the cone-shaped sleeve that threads on the "needle". Another possible cause for the problem you describe could be not thinning the lacquer enough. Lacquers can stand being thinned a good bit more than enamels--I use the "consistency" of 2% milk as my standard, by eyeball--see how it "sheets" down the inside of my glass color jar. Another little trick I use is to lower the air pressure used just a little bit, and opening up my material control, which allows a bit more paint flow while the lower air pressure allows me to move in a good bit closer to the work. It's sort of getting a wet paint surface but without blotting the paint on so heavily that it quickly runs or sags. Just a few thoughts on this.
Consider that the owner of Round2 invested a TON of money to buy up all those existing AMT, MPC, Ertl and Lindberg tools--surely he'd like to recoup that investment by reissuing such kits as can be made from them, before sinking any significant funds into new tooling. Art