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Art Anderson

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About Art Anderson

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  • Scale I Build 1/25

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Art Anderson's Activity

  1. Art Anderson added a post in a topic What's next from Moebius - How about a 70 F-100 4x4 and a 65-66 F-100   

    I'll be reviewing CAD files with David this weekend.
  2. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Clear coat problem.   

    Steve,  I can only recall just one paint job that cracked over time, and that is a Monogram '37 Ford Tudor Sedan street rod that I built in 1987, painted it with automotive lacquer too.  I've done dozens of model cars over the years with automotive lacquer, and that was the only one to have paint that cracked.
    That said, I almost never use a clear coat on any model car project, but when I do, it's always been in the same brand and type of paint as the preceding primers and color coat.
  3. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Clear coat problem.   

    "Out-gassing" of enamel more than likely is not the problem here:   Enamel paints dry "click hard" in essentially two phases:  First, the solvent (the thinning) evaporates, and then the enamel resins harden by exposure to air.  This latter step takes longer than the "flashing off" of the thinner or solvent, which is why enamel paint takes a lot longer to cure out than say, lacquer.
  4. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Why haven't the model companies addressed the problem with tire melt ?   

    Only about 3,000 or so kits here.
    Gentlemen, in all of this, BEAR in mind that model kit manufacturers don't manufacture the plastics with which they mold model kits--that's WAY out of their league.  They, just like most any producer of molded plastic products (of all types,sizes and genre's) are pretty much limited to whatever materials are out there, readily available.
    With the issue here being tires--there are only a handful of plastics that can be used to make "soft"tires for model kits--PVC being the most plentiful (and the subject of this thread)--most others have drawbacks far worse.  I along with others, have given very valid, truly workable techniques for eliminating the tendency of SOME PVC tires to attack the rims--I've done the BMF foil barrier several times, and can attest that it does work; so does a thin wipe of epoxy glue around the circumference of the wheel rim.
    Of course, there is an alternative--molded polystyrene tires--ala Italeri in a number of their kits, but there goes the fine tread detail we all love to crave, not to mention having to paint te danged things--but I am pretty sure that from the standpoint of any model car kit manufacturer, that could very well be the only reliable solution to this periodic situation.
  5. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Air Trax   

    I spent a good part of NNL Friday Evening with Tapani and Juha Airo--What a great pair they are to chat about model car stuff with!   Bought their Morris Minor 2dr Saloon, hwich is beautiful, at their hotel room--about noon on Saturday, at the NNL, Tapani came, almost running, to the Moebius Display, where I was assisting Dave Metzner, to tell me with a very red face, that he'd just realized he'd forgotten to include the chassis, and will be sending it to me ASAP.  I was so impressed with that, I went back over to their tables, and plunked down the dollars for their forthcoming 1941 Lincoln Zephyr Coupe.
    It does take some time for any shipment to make it from Helsinki Finland to the US--Helsinki isn't exactly on a trade superhighway, but be patient--their stuff is all a CLASS ACT,  as are the two of them.
  6. Art Anderson added a post in a topic How to Decant Spray Cans   

    Exactly how I do it!   In addition, I've never bothered with straws, or anything other than just the standard spray nozzle on the spray can--I've simply learned, over the past 50 years or so, to regulate the flow of paint from the spray nozzle as it can be varied by simply not pressing it all the way down.  To further moderate decanting directly into a paint jar (airbrush color jar in my case),I spray the paint against the side (inside!) of the jar, which allows the decanted paint to simply flow down the inside of the jar, without the tendency to "blow back" up and out of the jar, into my face.
    As I almost always add at least 10% more lacquer thinner to paint that's going to be airbrushed, seldom do I ever need more than 1/4 of the airbrush jar's 3/4 oz. capacity, as for me, when painting, less is better than more (why obscure all the fine surface details I paid good money to get in a model car kit?
  7. Art Anderson added a post in a topic old decals   

    OK, some thoughts (and things I've learned!) about decal sheets:
    For starters, decals (incidentally, the word "Decal" is a contraction of the original name "Decalomainia" which dates from at last the 1920's or so), are multilayered in their manufacturer:
    The "decal paper" on which decals are printed is basically "blotting paper", which is highly water-absorbent.  Waer penetrates this paper from behind, NOT through the decal itself.  The "glue" (adhesive) traditionally is just plain gelatin (as in Jell-O, albeit with no flavoring, sugar, or food coloring).  
    Good quality decals are printed in lacquers, with a clear base (either printed in the shapes of the artwork, or sprayed all the way across the entire sheet. Commecially made decals are printed, most often in lacquers, the succeeding colors printed on as layers, in solid layers, as opposed to those old cheap model kit decals we used to see years ago, which more often than not were printed by lithography (which gives an uneven coloring, looking like either "cross-hatched" or "dot matrix".
    It can, and has happened, particularly in mass-production printing of decal sheets, that the first step in printing the decals somehow the clear lacquer basic coating got missed--but that is very easy to spot--if you look closely at the decal sheet, and see the gelatin adhesive exposed, with NO clear film around the edges of the various artwork, it is time to STOP!  The lacquer printing itself is nowhere nearly strong enough to withstand being wetted, and then "slid off" without merely crumbling into tiny bits.  So what to do?
    Whenever I encounter a decal sheet that is either very old, or appears to not have been printed over a clear film applied to the decal paper, I have simply airbrushed a coat of clear non-penetrating lacquer over the entire sheet.  Clear "non penetrating lacquer" is as readily available as can be:  Model Master gloss clear lacquer, as well as Tamiya TS-13 Gloss Clear!.  Are the decals from an old kit?  If so, they can be prone to splitting apart due to their age, and quite possibly some curling of the decal sheet (blotting paper absorbs moisture, and it's at all particular where that moisture comes from, be it the dish of water you dip decals into, or from the humidity in the ambient (surrounding air).  So, again, clear gloss non-penetrating lacquer (as described above) comes to the rescue, and it can (and in my decades of experience) does preserve such older decals quite well.
    From late 1966 through the winter of 1983  I built (along with several local model car friends) a large number of Indianapolis cars--most of which required decal graphics that did not exist in any form whatsoever.  For these, I used both scraps of decal sheets (the clear parts left over after cutting out the kit decals) and even raw decal paper having the gelatin glue coating but not even clear film--simply spraying (back then AMT Clear Lacquer--which was about the same thing as Tamiya or MM lacquers) to get that clear film laid down--and then literally hand-painting graphics such as car numbers, even driver, car owner, and sponsorship graphics.  On more than one occasion I even airbrushed  colors used in the basic paint scheme onto clear decal film, then cut out my own shapes in order to get some of the more complicated paint schemes into areas of the body work, where masking and spraying was just not possible.  For hand-painting smaller decals, such as car numbers, even down to car owner logo's (such as JC Agajanian's legendary "pig riding a race car", drawing inspiration from an articles in the likes of Car Model, and Rod & Custom Models on this subject.  I've even changed the colors of such things as race car numbers, and  cleaned up the cheap lithography on old 1960's era AMT and MPC decal graphics.
    None of what I'm saying in this long-winded missal is at all highly technical--it's easy, but with the caveat that there are "learning curves" along the way, particularly with hand-painting--but it is all doable, I've both done it, and have seen others do it, all along the way.
  8. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Polystyrene packaging and tyres   

    John's got the basic answer here:   "Vinyl Tire Disease" didn't really crop up until the very early 60's, when model companies (at the time, AMT, Revell & JoHan) began using a then-much-softer variety of PVC, for molding model car kit tires, in order to get more realism and finer detail than had been possible with the harder PVC formula used on promotional model cas and the earliest of 1/25 scale model car kits having PVC tires molded in black (the black pigment was never the problem).  I think that coincided with the introduction of Saran Wrp (and other generic brands of clear, clinging food wrap).
    Unfortunately, plastic model kit mfr's are very much at the mercy of the plastics industry--being able to access only such materials as have been developed and manufactured.  As such, certainly where softer plastic compounds are concerned, it appears that there are not many (at all) that can be used to mold an acceptable soft model kit tire, it having a truly dark black color, the ability to at least stretch a little bit over a model car kit rim, and not require a lot of prep or painting work. And even PVC has never been "uniform" as used for model car kit tires--while those of us with more white than color in our hair certainly remember the dreaded "Revell Tire Disease" of the 60's into at least the middle 70's, for the most part even that wasn't completely a uniform problem--not even all Revell car kits suffered that malady, even "back in the day".  And yet, today, I have many model car kits that were produced in the 1960's through the mid-late 70's, in which the tires were never placed in polybags (such as Zip-Lock or similar) that have NEVER marked a body shell or window glass--leading me to be convinced that Revell notwithstanding, this was never a universal, nor a situation guaranteed to occur.
    Other materials have been used to make model car kit tires--for example, AMT Corporation used up a fairly large quantity of the soft-rubber Firestone Nascar Tires they developed for their neat (but commercially unsuccessful "AMT Authentic Model Turnpike" 1/25 scale motorized racing sets of the early 1960's.  Those tires did not eat up the rims on which they were mounted, but in fairly quick order, the rubber compound (Neoprene perhaps?) tended to dry out, shrink, and split apart.   Tamiya used rubber from the very beginning on their model car kits--had many Tamiya model car kits produced and built in the late-1960's well into the 1970's suffered the same drying out and cracking of those tires  (I have a Taimiya 1/12 scale Lotus 49 F1 model that was built in 1971, whose hollow tires first collapsed under the weight of the model, then dried out, crumbled.
    A sure-fire solution to this problem (certainly with newly molded model car kits) is to place the tires in a polyethylene bag ASAP upon opening the kit--the bags do not even have to be sealable--just large enough to hold the PVC tires with the bag completely wrapped around those tires.  Upon building the model, IF this tire melt is a worry--two preventative options:  Before painting the wheels, wipe a thin coat of epoxy glue around the mating surface of the rim--just enough to be a barrier between PVC and the styrene wheel.  Or, a strip of Bare Metal Foil can be used to do exactly the very same thing--both epoxies (in my experience) and any metal foil will serve as a barrier to any PVC Monomer that might seep out of a vinyl tire.  I've done both, whenever I've had any concern about tire melt, pretty much "end of the problem".
  9. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Why haven't the model companies addressed the problem with tire melt ?   

    Only about 3,000 or so kits here.
  10. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Why haven't the model companies addressed the problem with tire melt ?   

    Hmm, i've not experienced the so-called "tire melt" in perhaps 40 years now!  WTF is going on here?
  11. Art Anderson added a post in a topic The rookie passed his test.   

    Uh, the likes of AJ, Mario, Jim Clark, Gurney and several hundred other drivers also passed their Rookie driving test with flying colors: It ain't rocket science, guys!
  12. Art Anderson added a post in a topic NNL West Canceled ?   

    In LA:  "Don't spit on the sidewalk!  Have you never heard of the Johnstown Flood"?  
  13. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Why haven't the model companies addressed the problem with tire melt ?   

    OK, a bit of history and a technical note:   
    Ever since AMT, JoHan and Revell started offering "soft" tires in their model car kits (those AMT and SMP 1958-59 3in1 kits had a harder plastic tire), the material of choice has been Vinyl, or PVC.
    For years, in order to make a soft variety of PVC, there was a compound used that would attack polystyrene ("tire burn"), rather intermittently--it happened sometimes but not always "back in the day"  (I've been building model cars since 1952--I do have a little bit of experience).
    About 1974 or so, the US Government slapped controls on a chemical called "polyvinyl monomer" which was a gas given off in the injection molding of PVC, and I got caught up in all of that, being the HR person in our local Essex Group Wire Assembly Plant (we made all the dashboard harnesses for both Lincoln Continentals and Ford Thunderbirds at the time, plus smaller harnesses for Pinto's and all of the "service replacement wiring harnesses for both Ford and Chrysler older model cars).  All of those wiring harnesses had injection molded polyvinyl plugs at both ends!
    Almost simultaneously with the "at least temporay" ban on soft PVC plastics in consumer products, and their ultimate return to production (remember those gawd-auful AMT hard plsstic 2pc tires of the middle 70's?), tire "melt" almost magically disappeared.  It did come back though, with the shift of model car kit production to the Far East, but in my considerable experience, that was a good decade or more ago.
    Now, how to prevent its unlikely appearance (I've not seen any evidence of it on models I've built in the last 210+ years!), as Bill Engwer suggests, a quick "wipe" of epoxy around the circumference of the rim works, as does a strip of  Bare Metal Fol--no polyvinyl components will penetrate either one in my 65 yrs experience building model cars. But, I must say that I've not had the problem crop up on a model car in perhaps 20 years, and not even in more than 40 years on a US domestic-produced model car kit
  14. Art Anderson added a post in a topic 1913 Ford   

    Funny thing is:  Not long after I finished my ICM '13 T Runabout,  a friend out of Indianapolis sent me a couple of pics of a '13 Model T Runabout, finished almost exactly as I did my model--AND that actual car lives just 9 miles due south of me!