Art Anderson

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About Art Anderson

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  1. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Building an old barn diorama   

    Two things:  1)  A digital caliper works much better and much more easily than a micrometer--unless one is a precision machinist.  2) Bear in mind that all wood is both temperature and humidity sensitive, the more humid the conditions, the more the wood will  swell up, and with temperature this is also true, but to a lesser extent.
    On another note:  When building two dissimilar model subjects, such as a barn in wood to be presented with a plastic model car built from a kit--is a silly little millimeter's difference in exact scale measurements of that barn or any of its timbers or boards REALLY going to make a serious difference in the overall diorama--probably not--as again, that "silly little millimeter" isn't likely to show up as being way inaccurate, IMHO.
  2. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Building an old barn diorama   

    For most all 1/25 scale modeling purposes, I simply treat one millimeter as .040" (which is on inch in 1/25th scale EXACTLY), because in actual measurement, the difference is about the thickness of a gnat's hair--only about 1/1000 of an inch or so--too small to be noticeable for most of our purposes (really, how many of us are dealing with dimensions that are is minute as needed in really fine "instrument" machining?  Answer is, IMHO, not even close:  One swipe of 400'grit sandpaper on a piece of styrene MIGHT equal a thousandth of an inch--and when working in basswood or styrene, I rather doubt that any of use EVER get that precise--nor for most applications, would we even worry about.
    Art Anderson
  3. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Will Slow Down of Cottage Industry Slow the Hobby?   

    Tom, and Mark,
    I too first attended a Toledo show in 1988, and went back there every year through 1999--so here's my read of it:  When Carlisle an others began promoting "toy shows" aimed at collectors, there were any number of truly classic toys--many vendors peddling antique toys from the late 18th and early 19th Century, up through the 1940's and into the 1950's.By 1995 or so, I noticed that there were very few vendors at Toledo offering such stuff--for who knows what reason?   The next Toledo show I attended was in 1993 with the members of the model car club in South Bend--and it was light-years different.   Toledo had shrunk to less than half what it was just 10 yrs earlier, even though the NNL was as well-attended as any I had been to in years previous.   This really DID coincide with the rapid growth of online auction sites, eBay being by far the largest. When eBay really took off, it took many of those antique toy dealers out of the "Show" business, simply because they could sit at home, photograph their wares, and put them up online, reasonably expecting hundreds of thousands (if not millions!) of browsing enthusiasts to let their mouse's do the walking--and the only mileage those vendors might run up was to drop off packages at USPS, UPS and/or FEDEX--and NO motel bills either!
    Swtch to 2015: I attended the "Toledo Collector Toy Fair" which is kind of a misnomer, as it's been in the neighboring city of Sylvania for several years now.   Toy venders were there, but far too much of what I saw was mere garage-sale fodder--and a lot of real junk at that.  The NNL was a mere shadow of what it was just 10 years earlier as well--saw a number of old firends and acquaintances in attendance.
    In November 2015, I was a guest of Dave Metzner and Moebius Models at the Detroit NNL--far better crowd, the very large building at Macomb Community College was full, the aisles were full of people looking around, looking to buy.  Very little in the way of "junk" there.  Dave and I went back up to the DAAM model car show & contest earlier this year, and it was even better than the Toy Show as far as vendors and traffic.  
    And, for those who feel they must complain about having to pay an admission charge to visit the NNL Natonals--bear in mind that it's John Carlisle who rented the facility, John Carlisle who rented all the tables up front that were used, and John Carlisle who paid for such liability insurance for the event as necessary.  At the original Maumee County Recreation Center location, I would be quite sure that each of the two major buildiings cost him separately, in addition to the smaller banquet hall that was used for the NNL.  Regardless of any feelings I might have about Mr. Carlisle, I do believe he was entitled to charge the promoters of the NNL for the use of that banquet hall that Saturday afternoon and evening, and the organizers of the NNL had every right (and necessity) to charge admission to the NNL separately from the admission charge to the Toy Show.
  4. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Does CA glue go bad??   

    Actually, for years, Goodrich was the sole producer of CA glue--as it was their invention (they held the patent on the stuff),  and they simply shipped the stuff in bulk to whomever would package and brand it.   It's hard to believe now, but CA glue was developed, rather by accident, in 1942!   Here's the Wikipedia on the stuff!  (rather interesting read, BTW)
  5. Art Anderson added a post in a topic "48 Ford Question   

    While not having built any of the Revell '48 Ford kits, it sounds as if you are trying to assemble it incorrectlyh--Revell has a pretty strong reputation of making their kits rather precisely--a 1/4 inch gap  in that area would be quite unusual for them--in fact I don't know that I have ever heard of such a thing--and their '48 Ford kits have been around since what, 1998-99?
    Art Anderson
  6. Art Anderson added a post in a topic is this not right or is it me   

    OK, then the answer is easy!   That kit was first released in 1962, and back then, almost nobody making plastic model kits added part numbers to their sprues.  So, why not add them later, afterwards?  The simple answer is that most all model kit tooling is cut in steel, and once that steel mold tooling has been approved for production, it gets "case hardened", after which any new engraving is not only hard to cut in, but also can raise the spectre of the tool (molds) actually cracking in service--given that molten plastic is injected into them at several hundred PSI.  But, even with the somewhat limited instruction sheets in that kit, the various parts should be pretty easy to identify--we kids did it back in 1962, at anywhere from 10 to my then age of 17.
    Art Anderson
  7. Art Anderson added a post in a topic 1947 Midget   

    Delton, that would have been an oddball then.   I grew up knowing Midget Racing Photographer, car owner, and Historian Ed Hitze (writer of the first history of both Frank Kurtis and Kurtis Kraft)---who  had not only a pair of rail frame midgets in his garage, but also a 1949-vintage Kurtis Offy midget. In addition, I met, broke bread with Frank Kurtis here in Lafayette a couple of times when he was visting Hitze--much of what I say here comes from those long visits, and not a few beers, BTW.  Consider that Kurtis-Kraft produced approximately 1,500 Midgets from late 1945 until Frank Kurtis sold that part of his business to Johnny Pawl of Crown Point, Indiana in the early 1950's.  Of those approximately 1500 Midgets, about 340 were complete cars, with the rest being chassis only, chassis with bodywork, evven kits for chassis )the frame tubing cut, bent to shape, even "fishmouthed" for tee-joint welding.  Hiis early cars did use Model A Ford front spindles & hubs  (I got a set of refurbished Model A Ford brake shoes from Robert Rice, the father of USAC Midget Champion Larry Rice (the Larry Rice of Saturday Night Thunder) who lived just 20 miles south of where I am sitting writing this.  When Crosley cars hit the streets in 1947, a transition was made to Crosley front spindles,, even the pioneering Crosley front disc brakes.  In the late 1940's, Ted Halibrand introduced his "Quick Change Rear End", which was engineered to bold up directly to 1928-48 Ford rear axle assemblies.  In addtion, NO Model T Ford had any front brakes of any sort--the only drums were on the rear axle, and those were parking brakes only.  As for those "rivets" in a Model T hub, the writer is 6 "rivets" short, as all Model T Ford wooden artillery wheels were 12-spoke, and they were NOT assembled to their hubs with rivets, but  BOLTS.  In addition, a Model T front axle had a C-shape at each end, with a kingpin going through the spindlle, AND both teh upper and lower "ears" at the ends of that axle--exactly the opposite of every other carmaker's solid front axle, and certainly 1 pin or bolt more than any Ford passenger car hub 1928-48 (Ford did make 5-lug spindles for Model T's in 1926-27, for those cars mounting the then-new Ford "Welded Steel Spoke Wheels".  From what you describe, the midget in question as written up in "Open Wheel" had to have been very much a home-build, with a Kurtis frame and bodywork.
    Along the way, Kurtis sold, as I mentioned above, raw chassis and body panels, to any and all comers--which accounted for the majority of what today are called Kurtis Midgets.  A real reason for this was the production of 12" rims by Crosley, a size that was much harder to find beforehand--until Halibrand began production of magnesium alloy wheels for racing, in 1949.
    With all those midgets having been produced, complete, or at least in chassis form, by Kurtis, it's little wonder that many car owners (and Midgets were, at their outset, a low-bucks operation, particularly if an owner opted for a Ford V8-60, or a Drake (built by Dale Drake of Meyer-Draike Offenhauser beginning in 1945) which were water-cooled conversions of the Harley Davidson Pan Head Vee-Twin of the 1930's), even Elto 2-cycle outboard motors dating from the 1920's.  Midget racing was, for many outside of AAA (American Automobile Association) and even California Racing Association (CRA), coupled with the ready availability of a fairly low-cost state-of-the-then-art tubular frame and essentially a mass-produced body shell (Kurtis had made stamped aluminum panels for P-51 Mustangs during WW-II, and had a small stamping press--his midget noses and tail cones were made by welding two stamped halves in aluminum!), with hoods, side panels and belly pans hand-formed by the legendary racing body craftsman, Myron Stevens) to fit each individual car or chassis sold.
    At any rate, the vast bulk of Kurtis Midgets used Model A and later Ford V8 spindles and hubs though.
  8. Art Anderson added a post in a topic 1947 Midget   

    Except that there were no 6-lug wheels used on Model T's--the first all steel wheels were wire wheels almost exactly like were used on the very earliest Model A's--and were 5-lug.  Prior to late 1925, Model T Fords came with only non-demountable wooden wheels (after about 1917 or so, demountable rims could be had, but still the wooden wheels were more or less permanently attached.  However, most Midgets with drum brakes did use Model A Ford brake drums along with narrowed Model A rear axles, and up front, Model A Ford spindles--even Model A Houdialle hydraulic shock absorbers.
  9. Art Anderson added a post in a topic 1:25 Tractors   

    For farm tractors in diecast, being as those are the core of the "Farm Toy" collecting hobby, the scales tend to be 1/64, some 1/32, and many in 1/16 scale--the last one having been very much the standard scale for diecast toy tractors when farm toys became very popular in rural America back in the early 1950's.
  10. Art Anderson added a post in a topic is this not right or is it me   

    Traditionally, AMT  never did number the parts in their kits--certainly not those done many years ago.  Which AMT '57 Chevy kit do you have?  Is it the one with the opening trunk lid, or is it the older kit which dates from 1962, having no opening trunk?
  11. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Will Slow Down of Cottage Industry Slow the Hobby?   

    While I certainly respect (and admire) the modern technology of 3D printing AND some of the stuff I've seen coming out from that technology in the way of model car stuff--frankly it's going to be a good while before that replaces such as resin-casting.  This, for the simple reason that most all the model aftermarket is "cottage industry" sized, with not a lot of capital being available for seriously high-technology products. 
  12. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Will Slow Down of Cottage Industry Slow the Hobby?   

    What slowdown in the model car aftermarket?  I mean, really now:  Beyond Modelhaus,  there are more model car aftermarket producers now than at any time before--of course, none of the sheer size that Modelhaus attained.  What did change over say, the past 36 years since Modelhaus began offering reproduction replacement parts for promo's and 1960's 3in1 kits has been the vast expansion of such as detail parts, new versions of existing styrene model car kits, decals (Fred Cady may well have been the largest model car decal printer in the late 1970's until his retirement about 10 years ago, there are many more aftermarket decal printers now than ever before--from what I have seen.  Add to the mix all the various aftermarket paint suppliers--where once it was just MCW,  there are any number of small entrepreneurs selling all colors of paint for model cars, in both lacquer and enamel forms.  Were you in a position to be able to attend an NNL East--that is a bigger gathering of model car aftermarket vendors than ever showed up at say, the old Toledo Toy Shows.
    As for "Toledo", that show began its decline with the coming of eBay, which took the majority of the top collectible toy dealers out of show halls, and put them online--same with dealers in OOP model kits. Simply put, they no longer had to load up cars, trailers, and vans to drive what often would be a full day each way; all they had to do was put stuff up for auction on the Bay, then when sales happened, box up the item(s) print out shipping labels, and off to USPS, United Parcel, or FEDEX locally.
  13. Art Anderson added a post in a topic Hook and Clevis from Solder   

    Yes, it would--either the brass or the copper wire.  For ease in working it, simply anneal it (take a piece of the stuff, hold in a pair of smooth pliers, and run the wire through the flame of your kitchen stove--just to red heat, let cool down--it becomes nearly as soft as solder--not to mention the very wide range of gauges that are available.
  14. Art Anderson added a post in a topic vw   

    Realize that the actual Love Bug (Herbie) began life as Walt Disney's daily driver--a 1963 VW Beetle--and no model company has ever kitted that model year of Volkswagen, as far I've been able to determine.  The Polar Lights VW is a '66, and  makes a reasonable facsimile--but there are a few minor detail differences in the body shell.
  15. Art Anderson added a post in a topic What are the differences between AMT 39/40 Ford Tudor sedan kits?   

    An interesting footnote here:   This kit CANNOT be built as a correct 1939 Ford, as the hood is a 1940 Standard hood, quite different in shapes and contours from the '39 Deluxe Fords.  Also, it comes with only the 1940 Deluxe instrument panel, and the new-for-1940 molded acetate plastic steering wheel.  The last omission is a set of 1939 Ford "wide five" wheels with their two piece hubcaps.