whale392

Hey Mike, good to see you got the rear lowered like you had wanted. Even if you weren't able to lower it, the slight rake it had would have been cool too, as it just had a 70s Hot Rod feel to it! Fine grit sandpaper followed by a thinned wash of black or burnt metal will give you the 'used' look you are going for. Once you wash it and it dries, go back with a q-tip slightly damp with thinner to remove the wash from the high spots. It will look like it has been used but still have a shiny surface like real used brakes have.

I use a lot of 3M products, and seeing as they work well on 1:1s, I use them in scale too. I do, however, follow up with Maguires Scratch-X and Swirl remover. Good stuff all around, and thanks for letting others know what you use.

That is a very nice finish, Ryan! What are you going to cut/finish it with?

Thanks for sharing, Mark. I have had fair results with the Micro-Set/Micro-Sol route and Scale Motorsports decals. I will wet the decal with water and spread the Micro-Set on the model surface. Once the decal is in place, I will dab it dry while working mild heat over it. Then I will work 4 or 5 sittings of Micro-Sol into the decal. Let it sit for 2-3 days and clear over it.

$20 and it is one sheet, I believe. Rick at Scaledreams.com has some in stock.

Very nice so far, and I have to say I like the Scale Motorsports decals as well. Brittle if handled rough, but they do look exceptionally nice when applied correctly. I always wanted to take the LFA and do some work to it to try and create what I think the 5th Generation Supra could have been. It already has some great lines and a killer powertrain.

Um....AE86. 1983-87 Toyota Corolla (Levin or Trueno).

Sadly, I think the actual juvenile here would be more accepting of the word NO and take it for an answer that the 50 year-old. How many times does Harry have to say "It isn't going to happen" before the dang point sinks in? Then to try and backpedal and reword it to seem like all he is looking for is streamlining and 'easier to use' the forum? Right, keep the veil flying. Let's see how many side streets we can take this down and how many alleys we can try to run this through until I get my wish. Give up and use the CBP section for what it is meant for instead of demanding a separate area just for yourself. As to Andy, who cares about that subject anymore. Talking to him is like talking to wall. He just doesn't get it and will continue to be that way until he is forced to stare down the barrel of life.

Lowering the 2010 Mustang offerings (save the snap convertible) to a more stock ride height isn't too bad. Going any lower than stock or up in rim size with a lower-than-stock ride height and these kits become a bear to lower. The 2010 Snap convertible requires just a tire change (and rims modified to accept aftermarket tires) and an axle hole adjustment to get them down to eating pavement.

And yet other people are just to juvenile to take no for an answer, or to know when to take a hint.

Then how about the 'Good Doctor' take NO for an answer, like an adult? I personally have nothing against him or rust, just his apparent post-whoring and total oblivion to anything that is not in his point-of-interest. He can (when he is so inclined0 build some beautiful things, but somehow they always end up being taken too far. He was a far better builder before the whole 'DR' and 'SCRAPple' ordeal.

What, we both go away for a while? I will hopefully have more soon, as the modifications to the front inner fender aprons are almost complete. What a job if you want these to sit as low as the real cars can.

Anybody notice the similarity between Andy and Cranky? Both won't take NO for an answer even when the reasoning for the answer is put out there and rationally explained. While I, like Dave, will lightly weather a vehicle for 'daily' use and sometimes build a beater, I do not think its' own section is needed.

Can I have a Ford FOX-Chassis only section too, then? Since there were/are still so popular in the real world and people build them in scale? Wait, I do have that. It's called a CBP with no end date. Is that just not enough for your ego, Doc? Is a never-ending CBP dedicated to weathered vehicles just too insignificant for your 'fame'? Would it not be able to contain all the 'energy' of this movement? Guess not, from your logic.

Stripes are just basic Black, but give me a second and I will get you the Dupont Fleet # for them too. Dupont Fleet 44435 for the stripes.

As Ryan suggested, a good paint house can mix any color you want and have it installed into a paint can on-site. As he states though, it isn't cheap. Mine here will do it for me, and it is something like $28.

Pegasus Hobbies 225/45 and 245/45-18 tires are a very good substitute for the kit times. Check out ScaleDreams, Rick carries them.

Looks good to me!

My apologies, as Dupli-Color does not have 'Pepper Gray Metallic' in their line-up. However, they do have paint code CX (Dupli-Color spray #BMF0360) Dark Shadow Gray Metallic (from which 'Pepper Gray' is derived). They also have a slightly lighter shade TK (BMF0352) Mineral Gray Metallic. My suggestion (as Dark Shadow Gray Metallic and 'Pepper Gray Metallic' are VERY close) would be to shoot the DSGM as a base coat, and tint your first layer of clear with just enough Black to give it a hint of Black. That will get you the closest of any store-bought shelf-ready colors. If you want it exact, I would go to a paint supply house (that deals in auto paint) with the factory paint code (Dupont Fleet 44490) and have them mix you up about a half pint.

I will get you the Dupli-Color paint codes and names in the morning. I have to stop at Autozone when I get out of work to pick up the heater core for my truck, and will get them then. Tony, work and various other engagements have kept me from here as of late, and I see it being just as tumultuous the next couple of months. Work is getting interesting as our aircraft are getting older.

Dupli-Color has the Mineral Grey Metallic and Pepper Grey in their line-up now. I have the Mineral Grey here, as I was going to originally shoot a real Mustang that color (so I picked up the spray Can for model purposes.

Ok, you mention and vaguely show the front and rear valances (the custom versions). Would it be possible to get a good shot of these parts (as the front end treatment (if that is what it is) looks to be the 'Z/28' prototype front. I would be interested in the kit if that were the case.

Considering that an E-4 (rank) makes a paycheck that has their total income below the poverty line and yet they still put their lives in harms way, I agree with supporting our service members; current, past, and future. As a prior service member myself, I have seen first-hand what goes on. I have seen politics cost lives, all in the name of 'Public Opinion'. As far as I am concerned, the public has absolutely NO business knowing what happens on military campaigns, as it completely compromises the missions and those who undertake them.

I wouldn't say the USMC was in the middle, as the Marines are actually an older organization than the Navy (granted, by one year, but still). And from the Marines rigorous training came the SEALs. Marine Recon, Navy Seal, Army Delta, and Air Force Para ALL go through the same training, and quite often work hand-in-hand on missions. As prior Navy and one who has 3 Boot Camp friends who are SEALs, I can tell you their training (all branch Special Forces) is intense and ever-ongoing. I got to be a 'bad guy' for the SEAL team doing 'Clean and Sweep' training at NAB Little Creek. As 'Bad Azz' as I thought I was, I got cleaned up and was lit up like a Christmas tree by the time training was concluded. They are for real, and thankfully the American public will NEVER have to know what they really do. HooRah Special Forces, no matter the branch.

I have been following this since you started it (as I have the Gunze kit myself, started in 1991), and I have to say I love what you have done with the Ghia.