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whale392

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Everything posted by whale392

  1. Mike still has pics of it up on www.daytonstangboard.com. The car in case is the Black Coupe with the 'Realfire' flames.
  2. Not that anyone cares, but the car that inspired (or at least was used by Ed and his crew for the upcoming 'race' version) one aspect of this kit was totaled at the dragstrip last Friday evening. This is in relation to the Revell 1/25th Coupe kit.
  3. Jim, the engine is only an 800cc 4 cylinder. what you are seeing (that you perceive to be a V8) is actually the lean of the engine coupled with the side-draft carbs. I have the racing version of this kit and it is a great piece. Love what you did with it Eric, and it sure is a tightly engineered kit! I have to get the engine bay/floor pan up under the body first, then paint everything as a unit. Basically, having to build it as the assembly line did (sort-of) The interior (dash and door panels) had to be fit to the body (for me anyway) before I could really snap the chassis plate in. Once the unit-body was all together, I had to tape off the interior panels and paint the exterior/interior floor pans (as mine being the racing version has no carpet detail). Then lower the finished product over the chassis/drivetrain.
  4. Since you have this and are already into it; do you have any Revell engines you could put down into the bay? Using the AMT/MPC Charger body may be a 'rough' starting point, but because of that you can do more custom work to it without feeling bad. Personally, I like the Pro-Touring style of build and even more so in scale.
  5. I will agree, it is a 65 Plymouth Belvedere. Looking at the front fenders again shows it to be so. The prominent lower undercuts on the rear fenders are either not there or covered/masked by the flake paint (making me think it to be a 63).
  6. No, Harry, it is not. I own 2 65 Dodge Coronets and they are quite different from the 63 Plymouths (of which dad owns one). The slope of the front fender/grill and tail light panel are give-aways of the Plymouth heritage, with the sloping body line and heavy undercut of the nose being the give-away to the 63 year. 1964 Plymouths had a similar tail panel, but the front end became more pointed (arrow-shaped). Dodge was quite a bit swoopier and the tail panel leaned forward at an angle for 64, 63 it was just a mess. by 1965, Dodge had come up with a very pleasing shape (much like a 64 Impala), and it was a one-year-only body style. Even the Coronet330 (took the place of the Polara/330 of 64) had nicer lines than the 64 did. To me, the 65 Dodge Coronet500, 1963 Plymouth Fury/Sport Fury, and 1964 Plymouth Belevdere/Satellite were the prettiest early B-Bodies available. Now, the 66-67 Dodge and Plymouth B-Bodies are the best looking Mopars (to me), period.
  7. 65 Dodge? Looks like a Plymouth to me, and a 63 at that. Crazy Bass-Boat flake gives it 'That 70's Vibe'!
  8. These cars are what you may call 'somewhat' my babies. I own a 1984 TurboGT (one of less than 4,000 built), a 1986GT T-top 5/spd, and a 1991GT no-options 5spd. I have owned an 88 Coupe and a 1983 GLX convertible as well.
  9. The first pics are of the 'Special Edition' cars showing the underbracing, the bracing is standard convertible fare. The last pic is a Teal 1993 Cobra before the Pre-delivery Inspection has been performed. Cool pics of one of my favorite cars.
  10. Test-fit a headlight lens and work it from there!
  11. Thanks for the 'like' on the C300/Challenger fit, Tom. I mentioned it as a possible for his build. Going back and measuring out my 61 Valiant kit, it is about .5" narrower than the C300. The Challenger front very well may not work for this application, unless there is a way to re-engineer the A-arms to shorten them up, plus take a hair out of the 'K' width. It could be done, but I would sooner take a later AMT B-body chassis an mod it to fit the new Hemi than the 2009 Challenger unit. And to add/answer Johns question; I have not seen anything from Ross Gibson on a New-Gen Hemi. I am quite sure they have not been released in resin as of yet (for Johns sake, I hope I am incorrect).
  12. I was able to make the Revell Challenger work under the Moebius C300 kit by modifying the C300 framerails.
  13. They look good, Jason, and I agree with your primer comparison. I am doing similar things with 'my' hoods.
  14. I just like engines.....the build is completely separate from the powertrain thought. I usually determine the overall vibe/look of what I want to build, get wheels/stance/basic body taken care of, then build up a sweet powertrain. Then it all dies when it gets to finish/final bodywork.
  15. Either I can't count or you switched engines, as that has 6 holes showing. And here I thought you were doing the Volvo B234R/F head swap to the Ford 2.3L Turbo motor and using that.
  16. Body work is my least favorite part (which, ironically counter-points you, Jason) and is why I have so many unfinished projects. I am an engine guy, always have been and always will be. I have some sweet engines together with half-finished bodies wrapped around them!
  17. I imagined you had that many hours, and a few more besides, tied up in the clean-up. You have more patience than I do, that is for sure.
  18. Would this count? My dad and his rail circa 1977. He still owns the car today; it started life as a 120" Chassis Research/Logghe Stamping car in 1964 and was lengthened to 150" in 1965. Spent some time being powered by a Blown Nitro Olds and was called 'The Glass Chariot' before dad bought it as a roller in 1975.
  19. Dan, When I was stationed in Norfolk, we used to go down to the Genroes Shopping Center (when I wasn't floating and it wasn't snowing) for their Friday night car cruise. One evening, a gentleman came rolling in with a Midnight-Blue Pearl 65. It was clad in 17" Torques and was motivated by a then-new 572 wearing EFI. to say that car was sweet is an understatement (and I am not a Vette person).
  20. It looks WAAAYYYY better now than when you started, that is for sure, Jason. how many hours do you have into clean-up and fixing the ills of that cast?
  21. John, This is pure personal opinion here, so take it as you will. Wheel choice number 2 would look great with a Black body, but would also fit well with a Dark Red metallic of some sort, or an almost-Black Gunmetal (Mineral Gray Metallic from Ford with a tint coat of Black in one layer of clear comes to mind). Wheel choice number 3 would be sweetness with a Burnt Orange, Deep Sapphire Blue Pearl, Black Pearl, or again a nice dark Red Pearl color. Interior color would be purely subjective based on the exterior color of course. As to powering it with a modern Hemi; I am assuming you will be using one from the Revell Challenger kit. If so, you can also use the Challenger IRS/IFS set-up. Just be advised that the front frame rails will need some work to get the Challenger subframe to fit in correctly (may even need to narrow the Challenger front K or A-arms to get everything in there).
  22. Pro-Touring Lancer/68 Hemi Dart mash-up coming in the near future? That Lancer is definitely cool. I have a 61 Valiant I am going the Tourer route with, complete with an EFI Slant-6 and T56 combo.
  23. Jason, Going on the new 90LX Coupe issue, I think the AMT 87-89GT upper hindquarters grafted to the Coupe body would be a good place to start. The models above were converted from the AMT piece and were done nicely. Considering the side trim has to be completely reworked to go from GT to LX, the Coupe would be the best starting point (my own opinion). The Revell 1993 Cobra (1/24th) would be a good place to start for a 1/24th, but it would need the entire side trim reworked as well. LXs can be made, and there are several ways to do so. I look forward to the new Coupe release for a lot of reasons.
  24. Since I haven't figured out how to interlink to threads here, search for a thread by MPC Marc about his 69 Barracuda Nortchback in 'Under Glass'.
  25. 83-86 Mustang taillights are the same regardless of trim level. The only ones different were the SVO units and they were still the same lenses but with the addition of 6 horizontal 1/16th inch stripes. They were Red corners with a red lower reflector. Turn signals were next up top and were amber lensed, then white/clear for the back-up light. The 1993 Cobra used 85-86 SVO tail lights. 87-93 had tail lights that had a red corner with the lower red reflector. the upper bar was clear/white with one bulb (turn signal position) being amber and the other (back-up) being clear. 87-93 GTs had the 'Cheese Grater' tail lights, which were ALL red except for the upper inner corner, which was white/clear (back-up light). The lens was cast with the 'grater' detail and it should be painted the same color as the car. To answer Caseys question; to make a fairly accurate (body) 87-93 LX Hatch, you could start with cutting the Coupe at the body styling line (from the door casing to the tail lights and across the roof from the aft of the door case to the other side) and graft the same section from the AMT 87-89GT Mustang to your roofless Coupe body. Being different manufacturers, they will not match up precisely but will work. You will have to modify an MPC SVO lower spoiler to make it an LX unit. Use the GT quarter windows. You will use the Coupe kit tail lights. For the interior, the 87-89GT will give up its 'hatch' tub (and steering wheel if you want an 87-89. If you want 90-93, use the Coupes stuff) and rear seats.
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