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my66s55

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About my66s55

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    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 01/13/1945

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    yes
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    1/24

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    https://www.facebook.com/3dprintsbyDoug/
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    DeBary, Florida
  • Full Name
    Doug Craig

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  1. my66s55

    Red Ram Hemi

    Yes. I 3d resin printed it. There aren't any lines.
  2. my66s55

    Red Ram Hemi

    AMT has never made a correct Dodge 270 hemi. They used what appears as a Chrysler hemi block and made the other parts fit it. Last year, I created the Dodge 241-270 hemi using the proper measurements from a real engine located at a salvage yard near me. The Dodge isn't only considerably smaller, the heads are different as well as the water pump housing. Below are a print of the engine I created as well as a pic of the reference block. I well post a w.i.p. of it if anyone is interested.
  3. I have the Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner and it works fine. I use it to clean excess resin off 3d printed parts. A car body will easily fit in it. Just be careful about using alcohol in an ultrasonic cleaner. Using heat will cause a fire.
  4. Fantastic accomplishments Randy. If only I had the ability to photo small parts as well as you. I'm working on and am very close to the next step. The completion of a complete multi part 3d printed model car. A holy grail of mine . The 1935 LaSalle. It's extremely close to reality. Oh, and forget the lines. They don't exist.😄
  5. Must have gotten below 70. I use a space heater to warm up my computer and modeling rooms. I built this house in 2005 thru 2007 as totally energy efficient, The power company paid me money when I moved in. My last electric bill was less than $50.00. My highest in the summer was less than $80.00. it's not the cold, but the dampness that gets me. As far as modeling goes, it's the best time to paint. The humidity drops to a usable level.
  6. Report post Posted 11 hours a I agree....what will happen is loss of detail/sharpness of parts by trying to sand around the details that everyone swears is THE BEST....whats the point?....you are creating more work for yourself, and are losing the realism of finishes. I think there's some kind of blindness in our hobby, that says things like PE, metal parts, and 3D printed parts are the most realistic simply because their already real metal, or the newest technologies. There are HUNDREDS of modelers out there that can create killer realism WITHOUT using the fancy stuff. I use as little PE , and "Special" stuff as i can these days. So, i'm with you, its not ready for all of us yet, but lets be truthful about it. You keep harping on this, but your ignorance is totally unbelievable. If I really know my stuff as Casey has said, then I know how to make the lines disappear. I have document the procedure in one of my previous threads. Maybe Casey can find it.
  7. Stop using Shapeways. The right printer in the right hands will produce what you want.
  8. It is now November 2019. The world of 3d printing changes rapidly. sanding finished parts? Your kidding, right. It's all up to the person doing the printing and there knowledge. Period.
  9. I can only assume that your experience is with Shapeways. Resin prints done on a home 3d printer are very sand-able and are totally lacking in in layer lines. Again. It's the lack of knowledge that prevents you from understanding. If you want proof, message me your address and I will send it to you.
  10. Where do I begin? I have a college degree with a B.S.in Business Administration. My majors were in accounting and economics. My g.p.a. in accounting was 3.5 and economics was 3.8. I have been a small business accountant with my own practice for going on 30 years. I've built my first 2 3d printers. One being an f.d.m. machine and the other was a resin printer. I know this technology very well. When I see people opting for price, I think of this quote. A sub $500.00 resin printer is just that. Cheap. As in dime store cheap. F.d.m is totally out of the question because of the lack of detail. Moving on to your for 3d printed bodies, I offer these. 1935 Delehaye 135 f&f roadster. My LaSalle 1935 convertable coupe build w.i.p. build test prints. These were printed on my Phrozen XL printer with an 8.5 inch lcd screen. It cost me $1253.00. You don't see many prints like this because: Lack of file and knowledge of how to make the files printable. The propensity of model car builders to be cheap. I would suggest that if you are anywhere close to me in Florida, that you might take a ride and view the results for yourself.
  11. Harry was a pure class act. He was the glue that made everything happen. The forum moderation, never been duplicated. The magazine. I miss him.
  12. What size prints are you wanting to do?
  13. I would love to see a new kit of this car someday, but short of someone doing a 3-D printed version, I know that the possibility is virtually zero. Would you believe 100% possibility? Sometime next year. I have started the cad file. I have a promo of the car, a 56 4 view blue print and a 3d scanner which give me a good form of reference. I'm currently involved in completing a 35 LaSalle convertible rumble seat coupe and a coupe. There are 140+ 3d printed parts to the LaSalle. I'm 70% done and am shooting for the end of year completion. Next, I'm going to go to the mid to late 50's Chrysler products. All projects will have a complete and accurate body, frame, engine and interior. I also have completed the Dodge 241 engine that only needs the poly heads created for the 55 Plymouth. That's the Dodge engine in my avatar.
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