my66s55

I've used bleach.

The 57 Dodge is being painted. The fenders and side stripe have been painted on the Deleheye 135. The 58 Plymouth is in process and the body has been successfully printed. The 35 LaSallle is being modified into the 3 window coupe. The coupe is what I originally wanted , but had trouble with getting the back of the top right. That's been fixed. Now it's getting it nlended with the rest of the file. What I'm showing today is how I get rid of most, if not all of those lines people point out. 3D printing is an additive process. A series of layers. When an object has a curve, those layers create a step like configuration. The higher the layer height is the larger the step and he greater the of line shows. A way to reduce these line size is to copy objects at an 30 degree angle. This produces a smoother finish on the object. It also creates longer print times and more resin use. Printing at at 50 um, 1/2 the thickness of a sheet of copy paper, produces the fastest times, but worse lines. Printing at 30 um will reduce the effects of the lines some. It also creates a longer print time ranging into the 20 hr time period. 20 um is the ultimate print size, but creates even more print time. I have found that I can print car bodies flat on my Phrozen Mighty 8k printer. Thus, I can print at 30 um an get excellent results. I printed the 57 Dodge this way in 10.5 hrs and had unbelievable results. No visible layer lines. This is 50 um. This is 20 um. This wire wheel was printed at 50 um. It will be much better at 30 um.

I put that person on ignore and they all disappeared.

Here's the final file for the 65 Grand sport. I've separated the parts i'll use and get them ready for print. The first 3 pics are progress shots from Dan. The remaining are the actual file.

I've started printing the final pieces to the 57 Dodge. Next come paint and assembly. First, the body with the floor installed. Next. the frame. Last, some parts. The front seat, the 325 hemi with trans, the dash, the front bumpers, the heater box, the brake fluid container, the horns, the battery, the interior side panels and the hubcaps

As usual, this tread has been taken off topic. It's about printing much faster. ACF film has a 93-94% transparency. That's quite a bit better than nfep film. It's not for everyone. It shows the printed file and it's flaws more accuracy. If that bothers people, than they shouldn't use it. There are many people that have been and are using it that like it. You never hear positive, only negative.

I got my ACF film directly from Phrozen. I have used Siraya fast and Phrozen TR300 resin. You need a very thin resin to print fast. The film needs to be very tight.

I stumbled on a file that's high on my list of to do projects. I started into 3d printing and file creation in 2013. I can't scratch build. I wanted a model of a 35 LaSalle in the worst way. Coupe or convertible. I started with that and will make it a reality in the coming months. Next was the 37 Delehaye 135 F & F roadster. That will become a reality in the same time period. The third was a 37 Talbot Lago T150 C ss 150 Teardrop coupe by F & F. The file I found is the 38 version by Talbot Logo. I will do the conversions to make it an F & F version for 37. The file is one of the best I've seen. There is a complete detailed interior, engine bay and engine. It's followed by Dan's fix for the 65 Buick Grand sport. The next posts will be of prints ans builds for my current projects including the 57 Dodge.

It's not the intake manifold that's wrong. The one in the kit isn't an A block manifold. Take off the water pump housing. Whats wrong is the water pump housing/ timing chain cover. The A block is one piece, the B block is 2. A timing chain cover and a water pump housing. I and 18+ members on this forum own a correct A block engine of my creation. I need to create a 383 B block engine for my 59 DeSoto build. I've done my research and that's how I know the difference.

It does't leave any strange texture in my prints. They look exactly like the slow prints.

You can cure the interior of resin buy making a snake light. When I print hollow engine blocks, I make a hole in each and soak it in i.p.a. I make them wher a part eill cover them up. They don't have to be very large. 3/16 will do.

It's generally caused by trapped resin inside. I print tires solid to prevent this.

The above post has nothing to do with your original post. It is just another unsatisfied customer that could't wait for what they wanted to come into stock. That's on them. Your original post quote : "Attention Shapeways sellers! Please sell your parts somewhere else. Etsy, Ebay, or your own website. Shapeways is a ripoff. Your part might only cost $8. But after Shapeways is through with me that part costs $22 or more. You want people who use who have there files on Shapeways and like you, don't want to be involved in the printing process to stop using Shapeways and do what even you don't want to do. All so you can get cheaper parts. That's what your about. I refuse to buy on Shapeways. Was to try to get people like yourself who are not interested interested in getting into the printing process to forget that and provide you with cheap parts.

So then your rant is mute. By the way, how much an hour are you paid to use that cad software? Is you time worthless? If files are free, find someone who will print them for you. If you created a file you'd have to have someone to print it. The sellers on Shapeways are much like you. They don't want to be involved with the printing aspect either. They offer files of parts that some people desire, so they put them on Shapeways as a means to make them available to the public. You don't want to be involved in the printing process, but others who feel the same should do it because you want to buy cheap parts. That says a lot about you.

Ok. You say the files are free. So I suggest you do what many have done over the past few years. Buy a 3d printer, spend the time and money to learn how to use it. Make your own parts and learn a cad software to create your own files.