If you can't obtain that you can also use 2 sided tape with a piece of styrene sheet. The styrene sheet/2 sided tape thing works when you need to scribe a curve, you just cut the sheet to what ever curve you need.
For actually scribing the lines, as has been said the back of a knife works ok. For added control use a .010"
(which is a 1/4 inch in 1/24 scale) drill bit. I've also used the back of a knife but I've ground the tip down flat then put a small back into it with a small relief. This works by scraping a trench into the plastic not cutting into it and moving material to either side of the blade as when using the back side of a blade. This method leaves a much cleaner cut as it removes material while scribing a line.
As master is simply the object you cast a mold from. It's refered to as a "master" for the purpose of mold making, if your original mold ever gets damaged or no longer produces quality casts then you retunr to your master and make another mold, you should always return to your "master" to make a new mold. Using a casting can lead to inaccurate castings due to many issue such shrinkage or warpage.
Your master can be a simple wheel and tire.
If your asking how to make a master from scratch. That's a subject I'll leave to builders with sculpting skills.
If you search the tips section Mr. Obssesive (Bill) has put up a pretty detailed tutorial on how to do the doors I think somewhere about a year ago.
As for the front fender/grill, your going to have to make your own inner panels.
When cutting (opening) any panels take your time use any number of tools to scrape the plastic out making a groove until you "break" though.To help with getting around corners use a mini drill bit making a series of holes as close together as possible then once all other areas are done you can flex the shell and panel to break the remaining bits, then sand the area to smooth.
There is more then one way to achieve clean cut panels, figure out what works best for you. And ALWAYS try a junk body first until your happy with the results.
I can't say enough about how much I enjoy the knowledge base on this site.
I'm new to casting, so far I'm only working on masters and piecing together tools such as a vacuum chamber, vacuum pump and pressure pot and doing research. I've been going throught the Smooth-On Cats (for about 9 months) and trying to figure out what to go with for both mold making and resin.
So I started with this forum and came upon this thread. I don't want to re-ask what been asked, but I'd like if possible some more insight on your choices to go with these products.
Can I ask why was Mold Max 30 your choice and not one of the others in this line?
Same question why not Task 2 or 3 or even 6 or even Task 4 which is claimed to be good for "thin" castings? They all have a longer pot life then Task 5.
As a newbie I have many questions and concerns and want to limit my waste as much as possible. My goal is to do an entire kit in resin, saving my collectable kits while still being able to build them only out of resin.
Sorry if I'm being anal, just trying to cover all my basis.
As I read your review I woundered what types of issues you have had with past bodies. I'm in the process of making a couple masters one being a chopped '40 for devilery van and the other a correct '73 Mustang Fastback for the Blue Max. Both the AMT and Revell kits are so wrong in so many ways. I'll be casting this for myself but would like to hear of the issues you have encountered with Resin bodies.
One of the quietest comps on the market is an IAWATA. They're not cheap but will last you a life time, they're whisper quiet. There is also a knock off on the market that will most likly be just as or close to how quiet the IAWATA is but more then likely won't last as long.
Anyone have any info? I've bought some of his products through Stradasports such as the 330 P4 engine kit. An awesome kit BTW, super detailed and very acurate, this engine rear suspension kit alone has 78 peices.