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Everything posted by ZTony8

  1. Believe it or not, I had good luck with good old Testor putty! I used it to fill some voids in some 1/43 scale resin bodies years ago and it still holds and hasn't shrunk. It even smells like the resin bodies, for what that's worth. Similar chemical composition, perhaps?
  2. I recall reading an article about the restoration of one of these pre war Audi race cars( don't know if it was a type C or a D) and there was analysis of the metal frame. The results showed that the frame was equivalent to lawn chair tubing!
  3. Today I went to another LHS in the area that was discounting items for Small Business Saturday. Picked up a Revell Porsche Panamera, an Aoshima Galant A ( sold here as the Plymouth Sapporo and Dodge Charger in the late 70s/ early 80s), a Tamiya Suzuki Katana bike, and the reissue of the MPC '32 Imperial Roadster along with a couple cans of paint.
  4. Stopped by the LHS to pick up issue #207 and saw that they were giving 20% off their regular prices. I managed to find a Revell Germany Valliant Porsche 934. I've seen them at a regular retail of $39.95 and have gotten them for anywhere from 27 to 30 dollars. This was marked with a regular price of $28.95 so with the discount I got it for $23.15.
  5. The '65 GTO and the '69 Torino were returned to regular bodies after being altered to the racing versions. So why not the '65 Olds, the '69 Falcon, and the '66 Skylark? The first two showed that it CAN be done ( with varying success).
  6. Looking Good. I've never understood why the 956 kit didn't include the rear brake ducting but the 962 kit without the removeable rear deck has them.
  7. I have them both, too, along with another set from ( I think) RMR.
  8. I got word this morning that ,as of now, the Detroit Autorama is on for March 5th through March 7th, 2021 including the model car contest. It's a judged contest. Admission to Autorama lets you bring as many models for the contest as you like for no additional charge. Help support our hobby and see some cool real cars, too!
  9. In the current issue of Vintage Motorsport magazine there is an article about the Slot Car Museum in Los Angeles. Good reading.
  10. Subject matter is why I buy a kit( why else would I buy a 1/18 scale Heller Formula 1 Renault kit?) Box art isn't a factor for me unless it shows the built up model being a badly appearing lump like the Monogram '69 Camaro or '56 Chevy hardtop). Brand isn't my top consideration for kit purchase unless the maker has had a bad reputation( Palmer, Premier). I do recognize that because of advances in kit molding you can't compare a 60s AMT kit to a late Tamiya kit. I like the sense of accomplishment a completed kit gives me but I hate to have to file, sand, and putty to make pieces fit acceptably well. High parts content doesn't bother me but having pieces that can't be seen in the finished model is senseless( like the separate crankshafts in some 60s Revell kits).The type of kit doesn't matter as long as it's done well. Yes, I like options! What kind depends on the kit subject. My suggestions would two: Better discern what goes into a kit. Do we REALLY need two colors of windows or a mini replica of the kit box? And make sure the parts aren't crammed into the box so as to minimize the possibility of damage( this is you, Moebius). My seven cars( in no special order): 1) A Chrysler Airflow 2) A '41 Packard LeBaron Sport Brougham 3) A '48 or '49 Packard Custom Super Eight 4) A '71 Pontiac Formula 455 H.O. 5) A Gordon-Keeble 6) My '27 Chevy Woodie finally restored 7)The HHR I have now or an HHR SS to replace it
  11. I wonder what was meant by "best"? Most influential? Successful? Nicest looking? Something else?
  12. I was at my local Ollies yesterday and got a Kenworth, a Diamond Reo, and a flatbed trailer. The store had plenty of the snap Camaro "concept car", the unassembled Corvette promos, the Escalade EXT, the pumper and the Kenworths. They were cleaned out of the Gremlins, T- Birds, '55 Vettes and Cutlasses. My buddy stopped at an Ollies near his workplace and got me another Kenworth, another flatbed, a tanker, a Cutlass and a T-Bird. No, mine are not destined for Facebook Marketplace or Ebay.
  13. The prices on that site are a bit "ambitious".
  14. Another part in the white version kit ( and maybe that blue version, too)and isn't mentioned in the instructions is a fuel line that the later kits don't have. It is shown on the box art model on the bottom of the box. But be careful when assembling the front suspension. There have been reports of alignment difficulties which were apparently remedied in the later versions by more precise parts location.
  15. I got my copy yesterday from Pasteiner's. I've been glancing through it but will read it in depth later.
  16. Brass era cars do seem to be on a bit of a price upswing. But the 20s era cars haven't done that as of yet( unless it's a big classic like a 12 cylinder Packard or something similar).
  17. That process was shown way back in the 70s in an article written by Hank Borger in Car Model Magazine. The only question I've had is if you should use cold or warm water. Which is it?
  18. I remember the shriek of the Matra V-12 at the 1982 Detroit Grand Prix. It was a unique sound, like someone somehow tearing metal.
  19. I'm planning to buy one this time. I missed it 40(ish) years ago.
  20. The '71 T-bird has Bunkie Knudsen's fingerprints all over it. The changes were what he could get done quickly on the car when he came to Ford from GM.
  21. Bangle may have kick started the uglifying trend but he's been gone from BMW for a few years.
  22. Maybe you can cut the front pan from a Revell '60 hardtop?
  23. The Jo-Han Cadillac and Mercedes kits are vey nice. Still positively impressive almost 50 years on.
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