The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
you can locate/purchase very small magnets.
I have some that are 1/16" x 1/32" and they are pretty strong for their size. I can't remember where I purchased them from, but I found this place after a quick web search...http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D101-N52
40 psi IS NOT too much to airbrush with...I spray at 35-40 on a daily basis and sometimes I use a higher psi. It all depends on what I am shooting.
However, with that being said, be sure that you are adjusting the pressure with the button/trigger pushed down/pulled back while you are adjusting the pressure. I have seen several people set the pressure and then try to use the airbrush/spray gun. I would suggest thinning your paints 1:1 and set your pressure at 25-30 psi as a starting point. Once you get the paint flow to where you are happy and comfortable with it, adjust the pressure "on the fly" little by little until you find a pressure that YOU are happy with. There isn't an absolute pressure that you have to spray at...it is personal preference.
I know that some people are going to argue and tell me that I am wrong...I have been airbrushing for over 25 years and have learned through trial and error over those years and I personally know of some well know airbrush artists that spray at 60-70 psi.
Remember, the whole model building aspect of your life is supposed to be fun and a break from the everyday life.
I did a little search on the ole internet and came across this info...
The Annual Spring Model Contest & Show, sponsored by IPMS/Wings, Wheels & Keels Model Club will be held at Woodmere Park Auditorium (located just off Jacaranda Blvd), Venice on Sat April 9th. Beginners and “old pro” modelers are invited to participate in a friendly, non-intimidating & uncomplicated show. Doors open at 9:30am. Once again a “Make & Take” session will begin at noontime for youngsters. Entry fee for modelers is $10 for all the models you can bring. Vendor
Tables $15 per table. Drop-off and entry 9:30am-12pm. The public is invited to attend. Admission is “Free”. Please call 475•9679 or 426•0774 for more info or directions.
I use House of Kolor on pretty much everything.
So much so that that I have a tattoo of the scarab (see avatar pic).
I mix my HOK paints at 1:1 (reduce with HOK RU311 mid-temp reducer) for spraying through the airbrush and I spray between 25-30 psi.
I start off with washing the parts with Comet and a toothbrush (great tip learned from this forum). I do all of my body work, sanding, etc., prime with Dupli-color filler primer, wet sand with 1000-1500 sandpaper, spray with Dupli-color sealer/primer, wet sand with 2000, shoot body color(s).
This may seem a little excessive to some, but I go through the same steps when painting a model that I would go through for painting anything.
if you are going to paint over aluminum, here's a few tips...
Be sure to wipe down the aluminum with lacquer thinner to clean any impurities off of the aluminum. (old school method was to wipe metal down with white vinegar just before painting as "tack rag" and the vinegar etches the metal a little)
Use a "self etching primer" for your first coat and be sure to do it in light coats.
Let the etching primer dry thoroughly, spray your "regular" primer over the etching primer, and wet sand before spraying your base coat.
Be sure that you do not sand through the etch primer.
if you want a more traditional Kandy Apple Red, use Gold as your basecoat.
I use Duplicolor primers almost all of the time (I shy away from their "Hot Rod Black Primer"...it doesn't' seem to actually cure).
I will use a sealer most of the time to try and prevent any part lines (or any other features that have been removed) from ghosting, or "checking"
Since your model will not be out in the elements most of its life, there is no need to go with the top of the line clears out there. You don't need to UV protection that they offer. I use Nason SelectClear (2 part) on my projects. It mixes 4:1 and is dry enough to polish (if needed) in 4 hours. I'm sure that there are other model based clears out there that might be compatible with the HOK, but I am not aware of them.
If you have experience with using a spray gun, why not use automotive paints for your models?
I use House of Kolor primarily and thin it 1:1 (most manufacturers suggest mixing it 2:1 but I find that 1:1 works a little better, for me, for airbrushing. You can purchase HOK paints, in small, ready to spray amounts, from www.coastairbrush.com
I use Tamiya paints for the remainder of the small parts and I usually reduce it with a little bit of either Tamiya thinner or 91% alcohol. I spray with a little more pressure than a lot of people do, but I have found that it works for me...I spray around 30-35 psi.
I have not used a Talon yet, I use Iwatas, but I hear that the Talon is a nice airbrush. If you haven't used an airbrush before, or you haven't used one in a while, I would suggest that you "practice" the motion of using it (press down for air and back for paint) while watching tv, stuck in traffic, etc. This will help you get used to how that operation works and gives your fingers a chance to develop muscle memory. Then, once you get the hang of the operation, do a little practice on some inexpensive paper (paper towels, butcher paper, junk mail, etc). I, along with several other folks, like to use spoons to see how the color will look, or to check color combinations.
Above all, take your time with the learning curve and have fun. Don't let it stress you out or you might end up like a lot of people...with an expensive paper weight on your workbench.
there might be a slight difference with the glossy and flat paint once they are cleared.
But I would try it on a spare body (as mentioned above) or a couple spoons before you try it on your current project.
as far as the body molded in red that you want to paint white...
some guys will recommend using Future floor polish as a sealer, but I use Duplicolor Primer/Sealer (spray can) as my final "barrier" against bleed through from plastic dyes or body work.
I've gone as far as shooting the primer and clearing it with 2 part clear, letting it cure, wet sanding it with 1000 - 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper and then sprayed my color(s).
the CrystalFX from Alsa is great stuff. I haven't used it in a few years, but I can tell you that you will have to put whatever you spray it on in a box or some sort of container that will keep air movement off away from it. Believe it or not, air movement will affect the overall look while it is drying...unless that is the desired effect.