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About Carmak

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  • Scale I Build

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  • Location
    Riverside, Iowa
  • Full Name
    Craig Cermak

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  1. If you look at the paint section it calls our bumble bee OR double body side stripes. This was a double pin stripe. It was actually fairly common on the R/T in 68. It is rarely seen today as most restored cars sport the bumble bee stripe.
  2. The previously mentioned methods are all sound but I would like to add to the freezer method: * First hold the glued together parts in a large freezer bag upside-down about a foot over boiling water for a couple minutes (I had a fixture for this). * Second put the bag in a deep freezer (colder temp that a typical combo fridge/freezer) for a couple days. * Third repeat a half a dozen times minimum. Of course this will not work on every nasty welded mess but it has worked more often than I thought it would when I started. The key is the steam vapor can work it's way into tiny seams, cracks and bubbles in the melted bond. When it freezes it pushes it apart just a little. When you repeat it the result can actually add up and get things apart you really did not expect to come apart.
  3. I understand why you aren't changing the wheelbase but it completely changes the whole look of the car. Carmak
  4. Did you ever go to the Ertl outlet in Dyersville? I remember getting kits there for as little as $.50 each in the mid 90's. I did work with the local injection molding companies so I was up there at least once a month.
  5. They also got the colors backwards on my remote control promo
  6. If it was the red 61 I saw it a few years ago in person at the Hot Rod Reunion in Bowling Green, KY. As I was walking it idled past me smooth as silk. When I saw it parked a few minutes later with the hood open I coudn't hardly believe it was a Cammer! Super clean build!
  7. I got this stash of models this morning. Guy bought an old house and found these. Good rebuilding material! Carmak
  8. Once you are in it is fine. The back seat is really tight.
  9. I have owned many 61-63 T-birds (I still have the 63 I drove when I dated my wife of 30 years) and they are not a big car. I am 6' tall and they are very difficult to get in and out of if you don't swing the steering column off to the side. My brother has a 62 Lincoln convertible and at 213" it is really not that big (by 60's car standards), it is a lot shorter than my 57 Coupe DeVille. What they lack in size they make up for in mass, they are really heavy. The 63 Thunderbird is a 4,200lb car. The is 600lbs more than a 63 Galaxie. The Lincoln convertible is 5,500lbs (by comparison my 57 Coupe Deville 4,600lbs).
  10. 69 GTO body from the Judge funny car + Chassis from 69 442 + new interior tub = Nice stock 1:25 69 GTO. But seriously 68 & 69 Coronet R/T Carmak
  11. I have been designing small multi-piece injection molded medical components for nearly 30 years. I use many of the same tool houses AMT/MPC/ERTL/RC2 used in and around Dyersville, IA and I have worked through scores of fit problems with injection molded parts. It is a whole lot of no fun. I am very happy Round 2 is taking the time to correct things. Carmak
  12. Cool project! Did you 3D print the windshield frame pieces?
  13. Just a heads up. Some of the SLA style 3D printing resins will inhibit silicone's cure process.
  14. There are lots of factors at play here: * The original grade of the plastic. Economics and availability drive decisions of what grade (and therefore how brittle or soft) the styrene or ABS is. JoHan famously molded kits out of whatever they could get in the 80's (I always ended up with dark green or pale orange). * The color does matter. Some colorants need to run at a higher percentage than other to properly color the finished part. Some colorants require a specific grade of styrene or ABS to be mixed with. Metallic has additional effects. I work in the medical device industry and I have seen very significant changes to the properties of ABS with very slight colorant changes. I would say blue based colors are the worst * Styrene and ABS age. My company has retain devices stored in ideal conditions (cool dry vault) that are a couple decades old. The properties of these old parts are not the same as freshly molded ones. * Don't forget UV damage. Styrene and ABS are very susceptible to UV damage. Stabilizing additives can reduce the susceptibility but can not eliminate it. Most of us have seen late 50's / early 60's models that are almost tan from the UV damage. Having said all that I love restoring / rebuilding old kits. Brittle plastic is just another challenge like welded on fender skirts and missing glass.
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