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Everything posted by Carmak

  1. Welcome to Iowa from Iowa (Iowa City)! After moving this year I hope to get unpacked and start building this winter. Craig
  2. 30 years ago when I started as a design engineer for a medical device company I would scratch build my own small concept parts in ABS plastic. In the mid nineties we got an SLA machine and my skills became obsolete (at work). Carmak P.S. Sledsel, I love your 58. Saw it a few years ago at the Des Moines Good Guys and talked to you for a couple minutes about which headlight bezels you used.
  3. Does the 66 Custom cab 4X4 have the non 4x4 suspension also? Does the 67 Service truck also have the stock bed? Thanks.
  4. If you look at the paint section it calls our bumble bee OR double body side stripes. This was a double pin stripe. It was actually fairly common on the R/T in 68. It is rarely seen today as most restored cars sport the bumble bee stripe.
  5. The previously mentioned methods are all sound but I would like to add to the freezer method: * First hold the glued together parts in a large freezer bag upside-down about a foot over boiling water for a couple minutes (I had a fixture for this). * Second put the bag in a deep freezer (colder temp that a typical combo fridge/freezer) for a couple days. * Third repeat a half a dozen times minimum. Of course this will not work on every nasty welded mess but it has worked more often than I thought it would when I started. The key is the steam vapor can work it's way into tiny seams, cracks and bubbles in the melted bond. When it freezes it pushes it apart just a little. When you repeat it the result can actually add up and get things apart you really did not expect to come apart.
  6. I understand why you aren't changing the wheelbase but it completely changes the whole look of the car. Carmak
  7. Did you ever go to the Ertl outlet in Dyersville? I remember getting kits there for as little as $.50 each in the mid 90's. I did work with the local injection molding companies so I was up there at least once a month.
  8. They also got the colors backwards on my remote control promo
  9. If it was the red 61 I saw it a few years ago in person at the Hot Rod Reunion in Bowling Green, KY. As I was walking it idled past me smooth as silk. When I saw it parked a few minutes later with the hood open I coudn't hardly believe it was a Cammer! Super clean build!
  10. I got this stash of models this morning. Guy bought an old house and found these. Good rebuilding material! Carmak
  11. Once you are in it is fine. The back seat is really tight.
  12. I have owned many 61-63 T-birds (I still have the 63 I drove when I dated my wife of 30 years) and they are not a big car. I am 6' tall and they are very difficult to get in and out of if you don't swing the steering column off to the side. My brother has a 62 Lincoln convertible and at 213" it is really not that big (by 60's car standards), it is a lot shorter than my 57 Coupe DeVille. What they lack in size they make up for in mass, they are really heavy. The 63 Thunderbird is a 4,200lb car. The is 600lbs more than a 63 Galaxie. The Lincoln convertible is 5,500lbs (by comparison my 57 Coupe Deville 4,600lbs).
  13. 69 GTO body from the Judge funny car + Chassis from 69 442 + new interior tub = Nice stock 1:25 69 GTO. But seriously 68 & 69 Coronet R/T Carmak
  14. I have been designing small multi-piece injection molded medical components for nearly 30 years. I use many of the same tool houses AMT/MPC/ERTL/RC2 used in and around Dyersville, IA and I have worked through scores of fit problems with injection molded parts. It is a whole lot of no fun. I am very happy Round 2 is taking the time to correct things. Carmak
  15. Cool project! Did you 3D print the windshield frame pieces?
  16. Just a heads up. Some of the SLA style 3D printing resins will inhibit silicone's cure process.
  17. There are lots of factors at play here: * The original grade of the plastic. Economics and availability drive decisions of what grade (and therefore how brittle or soft) the styrene or ABS is. JoHan famously molded kits out of whatever they could get in the 80's (I always ended up with dark green or pale orange). * The color does matter. Some colorants need to run at a higher percentage than other to properly color the finished part. Some colorants require a specific grade of styrene or ABS to be mixed with. Metallic has additional effects. I work in the medical device industry and I have seen very significant changes to the properties of ABS with very slight colorant changes. I would say blue based colors are the worst * Styrene and ABS age. My company has retain devices stored in ideal conditions (cool dry vault) that are a couple decades old. The properties of these old parts are not the same as freshly molded ones. * Don't forget UV damage. Styrene and ABS are very susceptible to UV damage. Stabilizing additives can reduce the susceptibility but can not eliminate it. Most of us have seen late 50's / early 60's models that are almost tan from the UV damage. Having said all that I love restoring / rebuilding old kits. Brittle plastic is just another challenge like welded on fender skirts and missing glass.
  18. Mike, First off I am looking forward to watching your project. The JoHan 442 kits can trace their heritage to Promotional Models. The Chassis detail of the 70 442 is fairly common in kits derived from promos. JoHan kits specifically are known for their bodies whish were above average for accuracy and for their poor interior and chassis detail. This also means that the molds used for JoHan 442 are actually as old as the the car which explains some of the flash. There are many kits still available from this era. I would recommend asking this group about the kit detail of a model you are interested in if you are trying to avoid kits like this in the future. Carmak
  19. I know a guy in Northern Illinois that used to have a business to provide mainstream cars for period movies, shows and commercials. He is also an avid model builder so hopefully he chimes in on this subject. in 2009 I was daily driving a super reliable 65 Pontiac Star Chief 4drHT. It was rusty enough in the right places be both drivable and of no value for restoration parts. I was spotted by the transportation coordinator for an independent movie "Splatter: Love, Honor, Paintball". He wanted to rent my car for a couple months as the "star car" (they wanted an "Uncle Buck" type car). After two months I got the car back. The rental payment came very close to what I paid for the car and the only thing broken was the driver door handle. Carmak
  20. Looks like you did some extensive work on the headlights. Looks really nice! I have an SMH body in the que. Good to know it comes out this nice! Carmak
  21. It is the AMT promo. It is put together from two promos I picked up over time.
  22. I just bought an Anycubic Photon 3D printer setup (Printer, Cleaning/Post Cure unit and a liter of resin for less than $400 shipped. This is an SLA type liquid resin printer and the detail level is impressive for such a low cost machine. My wife got some figures off the internet for free and printed them (for her Halloween building display). I designed and printed some three piece wheels so I could put non-promo tires on a 50 Ford promo with the aluminum hubs (the original rubber tires were long gone when I got it). I am currently working on a replacement 62 Galaxie windshield frame. It won't replace molding but it is really going to change modeling.
  23. The skirts in the kit should have the extensions cut off of them. The 1:1 skirts are essentially flat across the bottom. The kit skirts make the wheel opening smaller than it should be. The kit skirts are attempting to represent the stainless trim attached to the bottom of the wheel opening below the skirt. In reality the trim does extend into the wheel opening and make the opening smaller as it is nearly flush with the body. Carmak
  24. The red 65 is correct. The cream 65 has 66 GP lower trim on it. The 65 lower trim was Bonneville only and it was flat stainless with the ribs etched on the outside surface. The 66 lower trim was Bonneville and GP and it is chromed pot metal (similar in concept to the 65 full size tail light panels). You can see the depth of the ribs on the cream 65. Also interesting on the cream 65 is the lack of front (or rear) wheel lip trim. The 65 GP came standard with fender skirts but the could be ordered without skirts. If a GP was ordered without skirts it would have rear wheel lip trim. Carmak
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