The Forums will be down, Friday, November 24th starting 8 AM PST for upgrade.We'll probably be down until 1PM PST, but it might be longer. I'm doing a major forum software upgrade, so I expect the forums to operate somewhat differently when we come back online.
I might call it fiddly. I'd do a fair amount of test fitting first before a drop of paint went anywhere near plastic. To be honest I've never built one but a main skill as a seasoned model builder has to be test fitting. You assure yourself ZERO problems once paint is applied or at least mitigate them to manageable. For me test fitting came out of aggravation from things not going together over the course of years. Take the advise from someone with many failures under their belt. test fit everything before you crack open a bottle of cement. Mock ups are best but even cursory fittings are better than none at all. Example: Block halves go together fine. You cement the cylinder heads on where the tabs dictate. You let that harden then slide the intake manifold into place. Large gaps appear where the intake meets the heads. Or the intake rocks in place because the surface is peaked. NOW what do you do? If you have the adjoining pieces sanded and prepped you can test fit them for proper fit and that gap would have been noticed. Sliding the heads up just a tad fills the gap and it all looks tight and right. This is a common weakness in kits. I see it more than half the time when I build. It always pays to check. Oil pans should have a flat surface to cement too. They often do not and you have to sand the area before fit is optimal. Think of yourself as the machine shop. You have to mill surfaces so that parts fit right and tolerances are acceptable. My sanding stick selection is outstanding as a result of this.
Sorry to hear about the parts guys there Bill. I think that is the main reason my NAPA does so well. Between me and the two other guys we have 100 years experience. All of us are ASE certified and I am Bosch certified to "99" to boot.. Prime example is yesterday. MS Classic Cars mech Wayne comes in with a convertible top switch out of a 61 Buick. A momentary rotary switch. NO, we didn't have one or could get one. But I fixed there at the counter for him. THAT was fun...
I'm going to play Devils advocate a bit here. The decal is off the rear deck on the drivers side. Clear coat is a tad gloppy and uneven. And the chrome bits need to be trimmed of their flash before installation. Overall I see a pretty well built machine that is needing some care when parts are prepped. It could use a color sanding to tame the clear coat. I see the bright side to most things and your effort is a good one, not a great one. I too had efforts like this years ago. As a seasoned Veteran kit builder I offer these critiques as an honest assessment.
I see I'm not alone here. I loved my 1980 C10 so much and when it was smashed into oblivion [I wasn't in it, it was parked] I went into a depression for a while. It was the best shop truck ever. The heat sucked and it needed tires but the 350/4spd was perfect for picking up parts and the paint was original and in good nick. The chassis had over 300K on it and it was solid as a rock. I look now and then for one and the prices are out of hand for a decent example. Being a Chevy guy has proven to be tricky over the years. I see Fords all over the place and they too are fetching good prices of similar vintage. But it has to be a Chevy for me. The 70's models are getting stupid as far as money goes if you want a solid base to build on.