BubbaBrown

For carbs the1966 olds 442 w-30 had tri power. Don't know about the spacing ?

i don"t see any change coming. They will not spend money on tooling. The younger fellas seem to like what they do but most of us white beards its just more blah blah blah.

The engines you mentioned were all the bigger size. That 454 could be a 396 or I think there was a truck engine at 366? The 409 could be a 348, not so much in big blocks but some guys de-stroked their small blocks to better fit a class or power ban. Basically what chevy did with the 327 to 302 for the z-28. Play around with the math and have some fun with it. Not all cars were competive. Good Luck

Yes I second that, he has always been good. I use alot of his rear ends, good stuff.

Depends on what your gonna do with it. I just spray 1/25 bodies and parts and all of my vl's and my lone h have the 5 's in them.

Still down wed 4:42 am ,8-15-18

Your wife should be very happy, nice work.

Motor city does a real nice 1966 with the hi-po exhast complete. That pipe really barked, cops hated them. For a 1965 MCW has stock and 2 funny car set ups. Good luck

Thanks for the info guys. I do remember an old painter who we just recently lost once told me acetone would cut anything ( make it sprayable ). And yes those nail shops probably use alot of it. I hate the smell.

this might be somewhat related. needed lacquer thinner for clean up and etc. went to a parts store and bought a gallon, when I got home and read the very small print it read pure acetone. it works but seems a little strong. if I wanted acetone I would of bought it. anyone know of why they are selling acetone for lacquer thinner ?

I'm pretty sure all 1964 864 liteweights had red interiors, while the 1965 990 were the color posted.

Back when they were about 6 bucks I ordered a case of roadrunners and a couple a cases of the lindberg 64 dodges. Still have some, roadrunners were 4-speeds. Most Mopar racers were autos.

Sometimes I drill a tiny hole that will not show and use a toothpick which is then held by a alligator clip. Me and superglue don't play well alot of times.

Some guys just cut the belt off and use narrow masking tape thats been hit with black magic marker.

Just my observation, but if you get a booger with auto primer you have a booger. If your using tamiya, don't panic and leave it sit and when you come back the next day it will be smooth as silk no blemish at all. More costly yes but a very good product. I used to use plasti-coat t-235 but they have had to of changed the formula. It seems way thicker and squirts alot more no matter which nozzle you use. Longer dry times it just seems like a different product. I only know of 2 places that still carry it around here everyone else switched. Never had a problem going back or forth between auto and tamiya maybe ive been lucky.