BubbaBrown
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Posts posted by BubbaBrown
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I found when swapping engines if I stay with the same brands it is easier, Amt/Mpc to Amt/Mpc and Revell to Revell.
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I have a desk calendar on my desk so the paper changes every month.
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1955 two tones 594/626, 594 is shadow gray met. MCW # 5511 air brush or2604 spray can and 626 Coral is #5510 air brush and 2741 spray can, per MCW book.
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IMHO in model paint its Tamiya bright red, in auto paint its GM flame red from around the 1980's which will be a base coat clear coat.
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A few months ago I was going to build a Maverick by Johan and it was going well until I realized there was no chrome. So I grabbed another and yes again no chrome. These kits are up to about $50 to expensive to keep opening.
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I was not happy with how my black paint turned out on a couple old Fords that only came in black and wanted to do a 1970 454 Chevelle in black. I ended up spraying flat black Tamiya rattle can and then 2K cleared it. Came out so nice I haven't finished it I am afraid of screwing it up, but sure looks good.
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NHRA had their own ideas of what the horsepower was. Your engine might be factory rated 275 h.p. but the NHRA felt it was 325 h.p. That's what they used to factor. NHRA stock class was weight divided by horsepower, other sanctioning bodies might have used cubic inches into weight.
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GM that had the swirl on them were grey, Mopar that I saw were black.
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Thanks guys I do appreciate it
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Did Moebius ever come out with a B/FX comet ? If so I missed it. Where would one get the Weber's and intake manifold to try and make one ? Any ideas ? Thanks in advance.
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Bought a can over Amazon a few months ago that is supposedly truest candy apple red there is , Have not tried it but the name is something candy apple red.
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Grump's Nova was a 1968 before they came out with Camaros. I am unaware of any 72 but I could be wrong.
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Your local auto supply that carries paint should have clear enamel in spray cans. Modern paint have stuff in the paint to keep it from turning yellow and You ain't gonna leave this model sit in the sun and weather.
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For model cars I just wash them with Dawn and let air dry. Winter is bad. Ive had to stop painting and let dry and rewash to finish painting. Sounds stupid but it works for me
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I'm old with a fuzzy memory, but I think most mopar v/8 were on the drivers side, try google
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In the 1 to 1 world base coat should be flat, shiny comes from the clear.
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A local guy who ran alcohol dragster told me overheating was never a problem, alcohol is cool running.
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I was just wanting to switch the cab with interior and leave the chassis alone.
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Want to back date the 1967 ramp truck to a 1965, can I just change the cabs ?
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Yrs ago in Fine Scale an ex sailor built a ship for a museum, was 6 to8 ft long and after getting over the WOW factor I thought man having to build something would take all the fun out of it. For me this is a hobby and fun and when it isn't I put it up until ready to go at it again.
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Very nice job, Thank You
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To the beat of mt knowledge AS sprays are acrylic while the TS are lacquer.
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I would wash it very very well with dish soap let it air dry mask and repaint the white. You people like to sand too much. Some of these guys sand up to 12000 before paint, that's got to be close to what you have. Your model do what pleases ya.
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has anyone had any experience with?
in Model Building Questions and Answers
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Worked on one a couple decades ago, I don't know what kind of mold release they use but if it ain't really clean it will give you fits. I ended up washing with alcohol and then doing a normal wash with dawn.