The Forums will be down, Friday, November 24th starting 8 AM PST for upgrade.We'll probably be down until 1PM PST, but it might be longer. I'm doing a major forum software upgrade, so I expect the forums to operate somewhat differently when we come back online.
Check you messages, Ben. I sent the following; "I use plastic from both Plastruct and Evergreen. The .030" half-round was from Plastruct. I buy both locally in Kansas City hobby shops. The Plastruct part number is 90879. catalog number MRH-30. I would assume you could find this online." A quick google search on "Plastruct MRH-30" brought up numerous sources with product in stock. Alyn
The typical VW engine, if I remember right would be around 1200cc to 1500cc. That would put it in the G engine class. Bore or stroke it past 1523cc, up to around 2000cc and you'd move into H.
Lakesters are designated with the letter L. So if you build a lakester powered by a stock displacement VW motor running on gas, you would run in H/GL. Switch to alcohol or nitro and you would run H/FL. Adding a blower to either gas or fuel; add a B as in H/BGL or H/BFL.
lovely little bits of jewelry, Bill. The spacing of the various holes are deadly accurate. You must have some secret computer driven laser drill hidden in an underground workshop, three stories below the surface. You have come up for air and blind us with your machining brilliance.
I was recently thinking of how Mark and John had raised the bar so high it could go no higher. No more raising the bar.
Then you show up and what do you do; raise the bar.
Way to go, buddy. I'll look forward to seeing the finished car at this years Heartland.
I drive the 3rd of three Jeeps I've owned through the years. It's a bone stock black 97 Cherokee that I keep around for winter driving, towing my utility trailer and mule related tasks. It has about 180K on the odometer and will likely see 300k with little or no fuss; no engine rebuild. My Focus does none of the above very well. It's a "toy" by comparison.
The previous Jeeps were built, the last with rollcage, rock rails, skid plates, Firestone M/T's, locker, custom bumpers, etc.I took it to a variety of trials from Moab to the Badlands in Indiana. In all the places I've been, Toyota's can be spotted, but you'll see 40 or 50 Jeeps to every 1 Toyota. Most guy's go with what works, and stay away from toys.
The solid axle front end seems to be the great dividing line between real Jeeps and pretenders, but even the latest JK hs put on so much weight that it falls short. Several years back Chrysler started designing Jeep models around their common platform. from that point forward they became nothing more that Dodge SUV's with Jeep badges. Now with Fiat ownership, the trend continues; Fiat platforms with Jeep badges. The true Jeep; great off-road, but noisy and rough on the highway, is gone.
The best place to start is here: www.ipmsusa.org
click on the link to the "2014 IPMS/USA National Convention" link for the latest information on categories and rules updates.
click on "National Contest Cmt" button on the left side and then click on "Modelers Guide to IPMS Contests" link
also check out the "Forums" button for discussions on the contests, judging, etc
While you do not have to be a member of the IPMS to enter local and regional contests, the Nationals is a convention as much as a contest. You must be an IPMS member to enter.
Some guidlines from the IPMS:
Mold lines should be removed. Any door, hood, trunk, fender or other lines visible on real cars should be visible. Any flash should be removed.
Modifications to the body should appear as a natural part of the vehicle.
Clear parts should be free from fogging, glue marks and fingerprints.
All wheels should be aligned with each other when viewed from the top or the side. They should also contact the ground in a prototypical manner.
No glue marks should be visible.
Exhaust pipes should be drilled out.
The wheel should have valve stems.
Lenses like side marker lights and taillights should be represented by colored tint rather then by opaque paint.
Chrome, represented by paint, aluminum or foil, should have sharp edges and consistent shine.
If appropriate, the tires should be lettered.
The dashboard and instruments should be detailed.
The doors should have locks plates and stems, where appropriate. Seats should have adjustment levers, where appropriate.
The door handles and other interior details should be painted.
Details such as brake lines, fuel lines and parking brake cables should be added where appropriate.
Engine details, such as ignition wiring, electrical wiring for the headlights, starter and battery. Throttle linkage and water hoses should be added.
Any working parts should look real and operate realistically.
Painting and Finishing
1. The paint finish should have no “orange peel” or “egg shell” effect to it. It should be free of runs/sags, fingerprints,dust and fibers.The model should have a uniform level of glossiness to the finish.
If decals are used, the decals film should not be readily visible. Decals need not have the same level of glossinessas the rest of the model.
The interior should be painted in a manner that looks like fabric (flat) or vinyl/leather (semi-gloss).
If the model has carpet in the interior, it should de differentiated from the seat and door panels by a different color,shade or texture.
Insulation on the inside of the hood should be represented by paint or by material.
Appropriate decals should be added to the engine components like the battery and the oil filter
great piece of nostalgia. thanks for posting these.
Keeping them in display cases, have you had any issues with the tire metling syndrome (TMS)?
I've tried to keep mine in the individual clear cases as well, but wondered if locking in the fumes from the vinyl tires might contribute to TMS, so I try to remember to open the cases around once a month to air them out.
Wish I built at that level 44 years ago. Back then I was painting bodies with a brush and glueing parts without scraping off the chrome