Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Alyn

  1. We were looking forward to getting at least one model show in this year, but recent events have created some insurmountable logistics. We are forced to cancel this years Heartland Nationals. In May, the Kansas 4-phase plan for reopening was moving right along. At that time it appeared that by now we would be well into the last phase which allowed for decent crowd sizes and a major easing of most restrictions. Now, with the large increases in negative virus statistics, restrictions are tightening up again, making it all but impossible to manage face mask and social distancing rules with the large crowds we get. Health and safety comes first. Sorry to bring the bad news. Hopefully we can put on one heck of a show next year and make up for it. regards, Alyn Loya KC Slammers president
  2. The KC Slammers has rescheduled this years Heartland Nationals to August 22 & 23rd. We will still be at the same location, The Overland Park Convention Center with plenty of vendors, Rock & Roll with our live DJ and plenty of eye candy on the tables. We are looking forward to a break from the current Covid-19 troubles across the country and a return to some good old model building. Details and a copy of the contest flyer can be found on our website at https://kcslammers.com/ Hope to see you there, Alyn Loya
  3. I would be inclined to fudge a little. Start with some 1/16" x 1/8" (or thereabouts) plastic rod and just round off the two corners of the leading edge that will be exposed to the from of the grill shell. Round them off enough create a half-round profile on the leading edge. Leave the rear edges as is. No one will ever see them from the back side, so from the front it will not be evident that the cross section is not tapered.
  4. Great call with Leonard Poppe's Camaro convertible custom. That car just begs to be blown up to full size so you can jump in and drive it.
  5. We had a great show this year with an amazing number of beautiful paint jobs and superb detail from some of the best modelers around, including those mentioned previously. The model count, including a handful of "display only" cars was around 460. This easily outnumbered last years count, which was a pleasant surprise. Here's a link to the KC Slammers Fotki pages for a complete array of model pictures and category winners. Congrats to Klay Kemp for taking the Best of Show and Peoples choice awards (among others) with his unbelievably cool Mustang. https://public.fotki.com/kcslammers/heartland-model-car/2019-heartland/ regards, Alyn Loya - KC Slammers President
  6. until
    Heartland Nationals 2018 - One of, if not the largest model contests/exhibitions in the Midwest. Hundreds of entries, huge vendor area, 50's, 60's music by DJ Elvis
  7. One week away to the start of the 2018 Heartland Nationals in Kansas City. One of the largest, if not the largest model show/exhibits in the Midwest. There's usually 400+ entries and huge vendor area; around 80 tables just for vendors, plus 50's - 60's rock with our friend Elvis covering the music for that "drive-in vibe". Always a good time and a great venue to get together with fellow modelers. regards, Alyn
  8. Chuck, I'm sure you're thinking of an article by Scott Colmer. He's done several very interesting how-to's published in MCM Pat, I'm not sure how you could achieve the metallic look after trying this directly on plastic, but it will be an interesting addition to this thread if you pull it off. Pete, your work (as usual) looks great. I used the toothpick and compound for mine as, from what I've read, it was common for hot rodders to do it this way with a wooden dowel in a drill press and similar rubbing compound. Your technique has a superior look in scale. Was size tubing is that?
  9. Let's see if I still remember how to post a pic. Engine turned aluminum firewall. I used a round toothpick mounted in a Dremel (with Dremel drill press fixture). The end of the toothpick was cut off square to the end and cleaned up. Dupont No. 7 compound was used for cutting. Another vote for tedious. This picture doesn't do it justice. Looks pretty good in person. https://public.ch.files.1drv.com/y4mGM4VEyN9Qup2X69gl-9YxUFuRWH8ngfB5803IFvN-1IGucFttrHV2cM6Q7yag1EyzYIeE9qKA9m-W3YQrzMNEcro-IhsBEqeSwF53i3gtYN8FxQYP5_fQDmHaesGOMOMK8XMbardEkdHKPfHXiItyQ5zzmXSVa11kREmqdYX8Gx9HzxoUNWlT9v7VSLhUHvAAsHsNz3C_WYwXf9UOJG1mg/Img_2134c.jpg?psid=1
  10. Check you messages, Ben. I sent the following; "I use plastic from both Plastruct and Evergreen. The .030" half-round was from Plastruct. I buy both locally in Kansas City hobby shops. The Plastruct part number is 90879. catalog number MRH-30. I would assume you could find this online." A quick google search on "Plastruct MRH-30" brought up numerous sources with product in stock. Alyn
  11. Off to your usual fabulous start. You make it look so simple. Do us all proud with this one.
  12. The typical VW engine, if I remember right would be around 1200cc to 1500cc. That would put it in the G engine class. Bore or stroke it past 1523cc, up to around 2000cc and you'd move into H. Lakesters are designated with the letter L. So if you build a lakester powered by a stock displacement VW motor running on gas, you would run in H/GL. Switch to alcohol or nitro and you would run H/FL. Adding a blower to either gas or fuel; add a B as in H/BGL or H/BFL. good luck with your project
  13. I would think that after 9 pages, most of you guys would get it. There are modelers out there that are not building to the Morrison standard. There are magazine editors that are not selecting content that is up to the Morrison standard. This has got to stop. If only Van Gogh had been alive to paint in our modern times. The night sky in "Starry Night" could have been so much more accurate with Jonathon's guidance. Surely we can all step up our game and start building to the Morrison standard. Surely we can all provide Jonathon with acceptable answers to his clearly and precisely worded question. Sorry, but the arrogance of someone to think others need to change their standards to fit his is off the charts.
  14. lovely little bits of jewelry, Bill. The spacing of the various holes are deadly accurate. You must have some secret computer driven laser drill hidden in an underground workshop, three stories below the surface. You have come up for air and blind us with your machining brilliance. I was recently thinking of how Mark and John had raised the bar so high it could go no higher. No more raising the bar. Then you show up and what do you do; raise the bar. Way to go, buddy. I'll look forward to seeing the finished car at this years Heartland.
  15. Mark, you're pushing the envelope to the point she's gonna blow! some beautiful examples of the level of modeling skills you've mastered.
  16. Great looking chassis, Art. The detail and metalized finishes really set it off.
  17. Very thoughtful, John. Shows the kind of guy you are.
  18. Excellent work on the chassis, Kevin. As delicate as shackles can be, to me they're screaming to be made in brass. Thin parts that need strength; that's where brass really shines. Here's an example I scratch built for a dodge truck. It's just under 1/4" between centerlines, or ~6" in scale: leaf spring to go with it. No worry handling this model:
  19. Holy Batmobile, John. That is one slick ride. Chassis looks great; I really noticed the great color on the rear axle center section. the perfect color awesome
  20. I drive the 3rd of three Jeeps I've owned through the years. It's a bone stock black 97 Cherokee that I keep around for winter driving, towing my utility trailer and mule related tasks. It has about 180K on the odometer and will likely see 300k with little or no fuss; no engine rebuild. My Focus does none of the above very well. It's a "toy" by comparison. The previous Jeeps were built, the last with rollcage, rock rails, skid plates, Firestone M/T's, locker, custom bumpers, etc.I took it to a variety of trials from Moab to the Badlands in Indiana. In all the places I've been, Toyota's can be spotted, but you'll see 40 or 50 Jeeps to every 1 Toyota. Most guy's go with what works, and stay away from toys. The solid axle front end seems to be the great dividing line between real Jeeps and pretenders, but even the latest JK hs put on so much weight that it falls short. Several years back Chrysler started designing Jeep models around their common platform. from that point forward they became nothing more that Dodge SUV's with Jeep badges. Now with Fiat ownership, the trend continues; Fiat platforms with Jeep badges. The true Jeep; great off-road, but noisy and rough on the highway, is gone.
  21. The best place to start is here: www.ipmsusa.org click on the link to the "2014 IPMS/USA National Convention" link for the latest information on categories and rules updates. click on "National Contest Cmt" button on the left side and then click on "Modelers Guide to IPMS Contests" link also check out the "Forums" button for discussions on the contests, judging, etc While you do not have to be a member of the IPMS to enter local and regional contests, the Nationals is a convention as much as a contest. You must be an IPMS member to enter. Some guidlines from the IPMS: Basic Construction Mold lines should be removed. Any door, hood, trunk, fender or other lines visible on real cars should be visible. Any flash should be removed. Modifications to the body should appear as a natural part of the vehicle. Clear parts should be free from fogging, glue marks and fingerprints. All wheels should be aligned with each other when viewed from the top or the side. They should also contact the ground in a prototypical manner. No glue marks should be visible. Details Exhaust pipes should be drilled out. The wheel should have valve stems. Lenses like side marker lights and taillights should be represented by colored tint rather then by opaque paint. Chrome, represented by paint, aluminum or foil, should have sharp edges and consistent shine. If appropriate, the tires should be lettered. The dashboard and instruments should be detailed. The doors should have locks plates and stems, where appropriate. Seats should have adjustment levers, where appropriate. The door handles and other interior details should be painted. Details such as brake lines, fuel lines and parking brake cables should be added where appropriate. Engine details, such as ignition wiring, electrical wiring for the headlights, starter and battery. Throttle linkage and water hoses should be added. Any working parts should look real and operate realistically. Painting and Finishing 1. The paint finish should have no “orange peel” or “egg shell” effect to it. It should be free of runs/sags, fingerprints,dust and fibers.The model should have a uniform level of glossiness to the finish. If decals are used, the decals film should not be readily visible. Decals need not have the same level of glossinessas the rest of the model. The interior should be painted in a manner that looks like fabric (flat) or vinyl/leather (semi-gloss). If the model has carpet in the interior, it should de differentiated from the seat and door panels by a different color,shade or texture. Insulation on the inside of the hood should be represented by paint or by material. Appropriate decals should be added to the engine components like the battery and the oil filter
  22. great piece of nostalgia. thanks for posting these. Keeping them in display cases, have you had any issues with the tire metling syndrome (TMS)? I've tried to keep mine in the individual clear cases as well, but wondered if locking in the fumes from the vinyl tires might contribute to TMS, so I try to remember to open the cases around once a month to air them out. Wish I built at that level 44 years ago. Back then I was painting bodies with a brush and glueing parts without scraping off the chrome
  23. My thoughts exactly ! Great paint, nice details. The mirror treatment under the trunk lid works nicely. Now, if the dual pipes were spitt'n flames, she'd be the Kat's meow
  • Create New...