A 200-mile (320 km) event was held at Fuji against invited contenders from the Can Am series, with five 7s entered; the Toyotas finished fourth, fifth, sixth, eighth, and ninth. So no, it did not compete in an official Can-Am race. The car was built to FIAs Series 7 specs which is close to Can-Am. About the Howmet... The car made its debut in 1968 at the Daytona 24 hours. It was in 3rd after 7 hours of racing, until the wastegate did not close and the car plowed into a barrier. Next was Sebring 12 hours, where it qualified 3rd. It then was pulled from the race, when debris caused damage to the engine. The next two races also ended up with the car retiring at BOAC 500 at Brand's Hatch and a British Championship race at Oulton Park. Then, back in America, the car would obtain it's first race victory, not only for it but turbine powered cars in general! At the Heart of Dixie race in Alabama, it won both the sprint and feature race. It also set a lap record there as well. The next race, Marlboro 300, it won again and setting the lap record there as well. The cars were ready to try World Championship scene again. At the 6 hours of Watkins Glen the car driven by Heppenstal came in 3rd overall and 1st in class. Next was the torturous Le Mans 24 hours. The car was modified to prevent bugs and debris from entering the engine. The biggest problem though was the rules. Le Mans mandated that all cars be shut off when in the pits. So it become very difficult to start the engines back up. They tried and cool the engines by putting ice on them. In the end, the engine was damaged and the car was limited to 100 mph on the straights. Although the racing program was discontinued, Howmet though that they could still promote their company. The redesigned the body to chassis #2 and made it an open top car. It is known as the Howmet TX MKII. It weighed in at around 1000 kg and could have added or lost weight to attempt FIA world record runs for cars under or over 1000 kg. It was fastest in 1/4 mile, 1/2 kilometer, and 1 kilometer runs, for both under and over 1000 kilogram cars.
I have. The system works fine and we don't pay the fee for the testing. I can use my dealer where I bought my car or the tire shop in town. I personally prefer having techs that know something about cars than the chimps that worked at the old DMV places. I had one guy try and put the front wheels on the dynomometer thinking my 83 Mercury fox platform Marquis Brougham wagon was front wheel drive. I banged on the thick plate glass trying to get his attention. In the nick of time a woman inspector from the other lane made him stop and place the proper axle over the dyno.
Sorry it took so long to get back to you. X-acto blade for paring of the bulk on the mold line, then light grit sand paper to smooth it out. Maybe a shot of primer, let dry, then sand to see if I got all the lows and highs. It's all trial and error sometimes to find the technique that works for you. Good lighting is always good.
Got a Surf Woody in our model club raffle last Friday and also got a Ford inline six from an old Falcon kit. Did not know what it was until someone told me what. That engine was free in a box of parts.
Each kit presents it's own problems/solutions. I usually go with the instruction sequence just because there might be an issue with fitment. That said, test fit all bits before gluing. If at all possible build in sub assemblies. Like do up the engine as a whole, (minus bits that are chrome or painted a different color) then maybe the next sub. Try and leave parts on the trees until you need them. That way, they stay easy to find (not always...Murphy's Law) and you won't be fretting over that last small bit that just was there a minute ago. Also, instead of breaking, use a small nipper/cutter or X-acto blade to remove part cleanly. Do not forget prework...cleaning mold lines, sprue tags, etc.
After reading about this guy, we are all amatuers. Lots of die cast but some kits as well...and he willed it to his church. http://www.kare11.com/mb/news/local/land-of-10000-stories/church-discovers-30000-cars-in-donated-house/88817062
An old trick to fix faded and yellowed decals was to tape the decal sheet to a window. Art work facing the outside where it would get exposure to the sun. Make sure window does not get condensation. After a couple of days or more, the paper should be closer to white again. I would then scan the decal onto new deacl paper and make a new copy. Or you could take a chance and spray a light coat of clear over the old decal and use that.