I have. The system works fine and we don't pay the fee for the testing. I can use my dealer where I bought my car or the tire shop in town. I personally prefer having techs that know something about cars than the chimps that worked at the old DMV places. I had one guy try and put the front wheels on the dynomometer thinking my 83 Mercury fox platform Marquis Brougham wagon was front wheel drive. I banged on the thick plate glass trying to get his attention. In the nick of time a woman inspector from the other lane made him stop and place the proper axle over the dyno.
Sorry it took so long to get back to you. X-acto blade for paring of the bulk on the mold line, then light grit sand paper to smooth it out. Maybe a shot of primer, let dry, then sand to see if I got all the lows and highs. It's all trial and error sometimes to find the technique that works for you. Good lighting is always good.
Got a Surf Woody in our model club raffle last Friday and also got a Ford inline six from an old Falcon kit. Did not know what it was until someone told me what. That engine was free in a box of parts.
Each kit presents it's own problems/solutions. I usually go with the instruction sequence just because there might be an issue with fitment. That said, test fit all bits before gluing. If at all possible build in sub assemblies. Like do up the engine as a whole, (minus bits that are chrome or painted a different color) then maybe the next sub. Try and leave parts on the trees until you need them. That way, they stay easy to find (not always...Murphy's Law) and you won't be fretting over that last small bit that just was there a minute ago. Also, instead of breaking, use a small nipper/cutter or X-acto blade to remove part cleanly. Do not forget prework...cleaning mold lines, sprue tags, etc.
After reading about this guy, we are all amatuers. Lots of die cast but some kits as well...and he willed it to his church. http://www.kare11.com/mb/news/local/land-of-10000-stories/church-discovers-30000-cars-in-donated-house/88817062
An old trick to fix faded and yellowed decals was to tape the decal sheet to a window. Art work facing the outside where it would get exposure to the sun. Make sure window does not get condensation. After a couple of days or more, the paper should be closer to white again. I would then scan the decal onto new deacl paper and make a new copy. Or you could take a chance and spray a light coat of clear over the old decal and use that.
I think if one did do this car as a personal model build or as a resin offering I hope they realize the car has a lower roof line than a stock Javelin. Otherwise it will wind up looking like a pregnant Gremlin.
I'm the opposite. I want to read everything on the subject, especially that of anything relating to the automobile. Art does not have to prove anything about his auto history knowledge. Read the words...or not. You can pass over the posts from anyone if you think they may use too many words. I myself love the discussions that happen here, and I know that when I see a response from Art, I might learn something. At 61 years of age, I ain't stopped learnin'.
If some small manufacturer makes a resin model of this...grab it right then...because the thing will be expensive and rare. Just like the League Of Gentlemen model, it's going for stupid money now. Either that or start cobbling up the Rommell's Rod kit with the JoHan Mercedes Roadster kit.
When it rains, it pours!!! Last night at model car club meeting it was rummage night so members brought stuff to sell...and sell they did. I got an Aero Vette and two 1/32nd scale 70 Novas and two 1/32nd scale 76? Novas, all four are Monogram I believe. Also got an unmolested 1/32 scale 65 or 66 Mustang fast back from the old AMT series of 1/32nd kits. I also won a 1/32nd scale Ranchero (reissue of the same series that the Mustang was part of) in the raffle. The Novas are kits that came with engines too. The newer Nova kit is not a very good one as the chassis detail is rather simplistic, but with one of the 70s chassis, I can make the 76 look great underneath.