This is a technique I've tried and failed at many times. It just requires too much control for the minimal results. Plastic rod is available down to at least .02" and I would rarely need anything smaller, so I don't get why anyone would go through this for something that has a constant taper to it and is readily available .. unless the taper is needed. I am amazed at some results from people who have mastered this.
Do not be embarrassed ... the Violati family is for real and they own the one missing 250 GTO. Just Ricardo is a figment of my imagination .. ehhe. Here's a link to this Ferarri with the Violati's mentioned
I can only answer your question limited as I don't have the other colors to compare, but I love TS-94 Metallic Grey and I use it often for metallic parts as an alternate to Metalizers. I wouldn't hesitate to get this paint as it has become one of my staple colors. It is lighter than any gunmetals I have any is a medium grey.
The engine, chassis and interior are done except for a little paint touch ups noticed in these photos.
The body needed some rust, but being aluminum I decided to try some corrosion on an unpainted door. It's not perfect but I think it will do. I used flat aluminum first on the door them some steel dabbed around. Some very light grey in lower corroded areas with some actual dirt dropped on the wet pain. Finally some flat white dry brushed on the grey. What does everyone think of the look?
I always went upstairs from my basement workshop to get some hot water in a pan to warm paint cans, but I just got a dehydrator and am considering using it to warm spray cans as it's next to my paint booth and more convenient, not to mention seemingly more efficient at warming.
Has anyone used a dehydrator to warm spray cans and are there any dangers to it?