Think of it this way: It would take about the same money (and effort) to restore a '56 Ford convertible as it would to restore that boring old 4-door sedan.
And, even with the convertible, you have to be careful about how much you're going to spend on a restoration vis-a-vis what the car will bring on the market. You wouldn't want to dump $80-100K into a resto for a car that's never going to return that kind of money. Imagine the bath you'd take on that 4-door (if you could even find a buyer)!
That's one reason why that car is sitting on the roof of a junkyard.
Weren't the Ferrari 156s ordered destroyed at the end of the racing season? I thought I remembered reading something along those lines years ago. If true, I wonder if it might have had something to do with these being Ferrari's first mid-engine F-1 cars and them not wanting the cars to fall into the hands of other teams. It wasn't exactly new technology though, and Colin Chapman was the showing the racing world where F-1 was really headed by then. Maybe Ferrari was keeping the engine under wraps...(?)
I've definitely seen more hot-rodded '32s than I have stock over my lifetime (especially coupes and roadsters), but in my neck of the woods stock Model As far out-number the hot-rodded cars. Even the '32 Woody that was my wedding transportation was hot-rodded. It's stock appearing, but the owner switched out the "B" motor for a warmed over Flathead and changed over to a 12-volt system to make the car more drive-able for the Copperstate 1,000 runs he used to go on every year (he passed away about three years ago, but the car's still in the family).
1. Roger that on the Wild Dream/Tognotti's T kit (my mom let me get that kit back in '63);
2. '61-'63 Continental Convertible (but with an up-top included);
3. '57 Craftsman T-Bird (open the hood, add the Revell Supercharged engine and dog-dish caps w/steelies for an F-Code);
4. '69 ('70?) 1/25 AMX, and;
5. yeah, the Watson Roadster/Indy Lotus combo (with correct tires).
I get two bonus picks because I copied two picks that were already made here:
1B. "The Wild Ones" with original box art (don't forget to include Hot Curl and the Stingray bicycle), and:
2B. I was going to add the Astro 1, but I see that it's already here, too, so how about the 289 Cobra WITH the Halibrands and original stock steering wheel included this time (add an up-top and correct Lemans-style hardtop if you're really serious about marketing cool kits).
At least the Mazda's are smiling. That old Buick has a frown. A lot of cars had frowns immediate post-war. You'd think they'd all be smiling during that era.
My take on the Audi's and Lexi is that they've been trying to appeal to dog-people, particularly the owners of boxers, Great Danes and bulldogs. Or, perhaps the fans of chocolate ice cream who like to lick the bowl.
I never tire of looking at the P-51. What a beautiful machine that was.
Whatever committee designed the heavy-handed new Camaro was obviously made up of kids who grew up on Transformers. Heck, they even co-branded the new Camaro in one of the Transformer movies, didn't they? Anyway, that car's styling doesn't hold a candle to the '69 car it's trying to mock. Same goes for the new Challenger, in my opinion.
Saw an i8 parked on 69th and 1st in Manhattan the other day. Other interesting cars I see parked in the street, in that neighborhood, include a '66 Mustang GT fastback (clean); a '70 AMC Gremlin (a real beater); and a Jag XK120 roadster (good driver). All registered daily drivers.
I was out in Brooklyn not too long ago and came across a '70 440(?) 4-speed 'Cuda convertible parked on the street. I don't think there was one inch of straight steel on that car (it was really bent up!), but it was a registered driver.
I've been using Alclad for over ten years and the application directions haven't changed, and I haven't seen anywhere that they have issued different instructions for different users (why would anybody do that?). It's very simple: Apply a base coat of gloss black ENAMEL (not lacquer, not acrylic) and apply MIST COATS of Alclad @ 12-15 PSI.
Of course, you want to make sure the surface you're spraying the base coat on is clean and smooth as glass; Alclad will reveal every imperfection, spec of dust, etc. And, I read on this forum that spraying the mist coats of Alclad at an angle to the work, rather than direct application, will help achieve the chrome-like finish your after. I tried this and it was a noticeable improvement over previous applications I had performed.
Interesting topic in as that I started to modify a new-tool AMT '57 Chevy Hardtop to accept the new-release Revell '57 convertible top. That Revell body is just so far off, and the engraving so soft, that I decided I would not be happy with the results if I built the convertible out-of-the-box. Especially when compared to (IMO) the superior AMT '57. Even the wheels and dashboard of the Revell kit are off.
Anyway, after lopping off the top of the AMT body, and some careful sanding, I found that the Revell top lines up pretty close at the windshield, although it is a tad narrow there, and then way narrow at the back. If you compare the two bodies, they are close to dead-on width and lengthwise, but Revell has managed to get the relationship between the convertible top "C" pillars (for want of a better term) and the top of the rear fenders very close when compared to photos of a 1/1 car. I think I may have to widen that top; It won't look right if I just go ahead and add material to the AMT body to close up the gap between the interior and the top. Maybe I should try out an original issue AMT '57 before I start cutting that top, though. Hmmmm. The remaining guts of the Revell convertible will serve as a donor for the MCW '57 Nomad. I am going to build the Nomad as the Hollingworth car so that solves the wheel issue.
Another parts interchange I performed recently was the adaptation of A Revell '59 Chevy convertible top and windshield to the Trumpeter '60 Bonnevile convertible. This has been more straightforward, with minimal modifications. Fixing the interior on this kit is a whole other story, however, so it's still on the bench.
I use cheapo store-brand aluminum foil (it's really thin) in lieu of BMF. Microscale sells foil adhesive that works very well and is always consistent as long as you apply it carefully (don't let it puddle, use CLEAN, smooth strokes, etc.). I'll prep several sheets at a time and store them in a shoe box. Shelf life is good past a year (maybe more) as long as you prevent the foil from attracting dust and dirt. And, there's no backing to contend with.
I have found that aggressive burnishing on the flat side of the foil (if your trying to simulate anodized or burnished aluminum or stainless) tends to shine the foil up and you begin to lose that effect.
I begin burnishing with balsa wood (approx. 1/8" square strips) and then, very carefully, go into the tight spaces with a toothpick. Always start burnishing from the center and work your way out to the edges. I try to not burnish the segments that are to be removed too aggressively in order to minimize residue. Adhesive residue is the downside to this whole method, especially if you're working with a sheet of foil that's been coated recently (within hours to a month or two; foil with older adhesive is easier to remove and leaves less residue).
To avoid a bumpy finish, sand the paint covering the trim until it's smooth (I use 1500, 1800 or 2400 micron "polishing" sticks, depending on how aggressive I need to be), and make sure the surfaces are immaculate. Foil reveals every imperfection.
I try to use as few pieces of foil as possible, and to keep the application simple and straightforward. This, however, requires a degree of planning before diving in.
Be mindful of how the foil's going to wrap around contours to avoid wrinkles and tears.
ALWAYS use a fresh blade going in.
And, if you're not in the mood, too tired, over-caffeinated, pumped from a work-out, had too many cocktails, whatever, go work on something else.
A couple of years ago Porsche rented one of the exhibition spaces at Grand Central Terminal (these spaces used to be the waiting rooms, filled with pews. In the '70s-'80s they became bunkhouses for bums, so the MTA removed the pews and they now rent out the space to exhibitors) to introduce the new Boxster (or was it the Cayman?).
Anyway, they brought along that million-dollar mid-engine Carrera thingy and an impeccably restored '50s 550 Spyder to display alongside the new model they were introducing. Guess which car was drawing the crowd? That 550 was jewel-like and sitting next its younger siblings it really made it apparent how heavy-handed and bloated modern Porsches have become.