The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
The majority of my kits are 1/25, but I keep a "separate" collection of 1/24 so that I can build Ferraris, Porsches and other makes that you'd never find in 1/25. That 1/24 list includes all of the Monogram Classics, some interesting Heller releases such as the 4.5 Blower Bentley, Talbot Lago GP car, Type 50 Bugatti, BMW 528, Alfa Romeo 1750 Zagato, etc., and some really well-done Italeri classics ('33 Cadillac, Bugatti Royales). And then, of course, other interesting subjects from Tamiya, Fujimi, Hasegawa, and so on. PB.
Owned and sold but wish I still had: '74 SD455 T/A (bought it in '78 w/32K on the odo); '64 Impala SS (M-21 4-speed, tweaked small-block, TorqueThrusts, VERY deep black lacquer, Cali rake, tuck 'n roll); '66 VW Bus (21-window w/canvas sunroof, maroon and white); '60 VW Beetle (canvas sunroof, wedgewood blue. I bought it in '79 from the original owner: a little old lady who put 11K on it driving to her job as a school teacher a couple miles from her home); '71 Cal-look Karmann-Ghia convertible (built from the ground up. 2.0 Weber motor w/Abarth Monza exhaust; lowered and Konis, de-chromed, dark red w/black interior and top, Fuchs wheels); '84 VW GTI (My first brand-new car. I didn't sell it, however. It was stolen when I lived in NYC and it turned up in a NJ junkyard stripped to the bone. Replaced it with a Jetta (babies by then). Wished I had bought: '57 AH 100-6 (It had just been fully restored. Silver w/black coves. $3000.00 in '78 but the guy was selling it recoup drug money he was owed. I passed); '71 340 Cuda (Immaculate, adult-owned, low-mileage 4-speed car, Keystones on big 'n littles, Cali rake. $2700.00 in '77. Don't know why I backed out); '66 Chevelle SS-396 (Black on black, 4-speed, wheels, paint and rake just like my Impala, but a Chevelle). There were others, but I gotta get back to work... PB.
These guys have just about everything covered although I disagree with the recommendation to avoid tube glue. Depending on what best suits the application, I use the thin liquid cement for styrene, as well as 5-minute epoxy, CA (super glue), MicroScale liquid tape, white "school" glue, etc. The glue I probably use most often, though, is Testor's Model Cement for Plastic Models: tube glue. I find it very handy when I need a part to be held in place or need time to position a part. Yes, you need to remove paint or chrome plating to ensure proper adhesion, but I do that when using all of the other types of glue, anyway. Your husband will be familiar with it, I'm sure. And, I have been using a Testor's Aztec airbrush and compressor for over twenty years, without fail. Just my 2 cents. You're husband's a lucky fellow. My wife HATES that I have a hobby, be it in 1/25 scale or 1/1 scale! Merry Christmas! PB.
Super job on this 917K. I have one in the line up. Question: Did you use the kit decals for the stripes? Aftermarket decals? Or did you paint them on? If you painted them on, how did you handle the black pinstripes? Thank you. PB.
I loved those Gangbuster kits when I was a kid. I currently have the '28 Lincoln phaeton reissue that came with the figures, weapons, booze, etc., and two of the '32 Chrysler convertibles, one of which is the 2nd release w/the motorcycle that Tim has mentioned. I am hand lacing the wheels for the '28 Lincoln and it will be a tow vehicle for my Etzel's Miller 91. PB.
If you add a person to a photograph, or a painting for that matter, the eye goes right to that person, or persons. Even if they're not central to the composition. It's just human nature and curiosity. Let's say you're painting a landscape and you even "suggest" an inhabitant in the scene with a dab or two of a skin tone. Guaranteed, the eye will go right to that skin tone - the "person." I think this was alluded to earlier on in this post by the photographer. I have to agree with Harry, though: driver-less cars in the era that this guy works in seems kind of weird. PB.
Indeed, most people regard cars as appliances these days. The styling mantra of the car companies today: "Do Not Offend." Thus all the cars from the different manufacturers look identical. I think the cup-holders were more for the Gen-Xers. The millenials are looking for built-in technology and computing, self-parking, self-driving, etc.; which is now what the car companies are marketing. PB.
I'm with Harry on this one. Since I started building (at age 5) I don't think I've ever had a kit I couldn't bring to a reasonable conclusion(including the Orange Crate, Revell Microbus(s), Revell '57 Nomad, etc.). When I would open a box, however, and discover that I had just bought (talked my mother into buying) a real dog of a kit it would be immediately relegated to the parts box. Funnily enough, though, I recently completed the AMT new-tool '57 BelAir and that kit actually gave me an un-expected run for the money. Absolutely nothing fit right on that car without a lot of trimming, grinding, sanding, etc. Geesh! I recently bought a Revell '57 Nomad, BTW, just so I could have that beautiful box art up on my shelves again. I may pick up the MCW Nomad body and combine it with one of the recent Revell '57s for a proper build of the Hollingsworth car.
I keep a supply of a full palette of Sharpies on hand for these instances. As careful as I try to be, I often polish through high spots. However, they're usually very small, narrow areas such as the top of a tail fin (never the whole length of the fin - I usually catch myself...), hood and fender creases, etc. I find that if I very carefully run a Sharpie that's close to the color I've applied over the affected area, that usually does the trick. This works best with solid primary colors and neutrals, but I've had success with metallic, complimentary and analogous colors as well. Lighter colors (whites, yellows, beiges) can be tricky. I try to be as accurate as possible and to perform the touch-up with just one shot. If I have to hit it again, I make sure the first application has dried thoroughly. When successful you'd be hard-pressed to detect the repair. It doesn't work for every situation, though, and I've done my share of "dry-brush" touch-ups and re-sprays. PB.
I polish with abrasive pads and sticks, starting with 2400 grit (if warranted), or 3200-3600 grit (usually), and work through 4,000, 6,000, 8,000 grits, and then finish with a 12000 grit. I then hit the whole body with Novus #2, which will bring the paint to a shine and at the same time reveal fine sanding scratches. I then use a FINE automotive compound to remove the fine sanding scratches, working the compound against the grain of the scratches, and then wipe and rinse the residue off with water. Then, after another application of Novus #2, I finish off with carnauba wax. The "Treatment" was the best model car wax I ever used, but my jar perished in a fire 7 years ago and when I tried to purchase a new jar I saw that they had switched the product over to some sort of polishing system, which is not what I needed. I have my own polishing system. Keep in mind that enamels need more cure time (some more than others) than lacquers and acrylics, and I always clear coat over metallic paint jobs before attempting to polish them out.