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About PeeBee

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    MCM Friend

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  • Location
    Ridgefield, CT
  • Full Name
    Paul Boucher
  1. Johan prices $$$$

    Hey Ron, I take the Metro-North Harlem line into the city several days a week and we pass an NYPD parking lot in Yonkers, or the upper Bronx(?). In that parking lot is parked a '65 or '66 Fury NYPD patrol car in green/white livery with the bubble gum machine up top, etc. I've seen a cover on it from time-to-time, but it otherwise sits out in the weather year-round, unprotected. Strange, it looks like somebody spent time and money on a restortaion, unless it just happens to be a survivor, but that is doubtful. Body looks to be super-straight. Of course, I've only seen it through the window of a moving train traveling 30-40 MPH (depending on the day) from abot 60' away. Yeah that regarding the Jo-Han kits. Last one I bought, about five years ago, was the '67 Eldorado (a holy grail), facory sealed, for $70.00. Luckily there was no trace of tire-burn, and the chrome is some of the best I've ever seen on a kit from any era. These days, I reserve the $200.00-$300.00 model purchases for must-have, limited-run kits of interesting subjects ('50s-'60s sports cars, sport racers and F1, mostly).
  2. You never had to work at getting the right "stance" with the simple chassis-with-metal-axles in these old kits, apart from perhaps adjusting the track width. And, lowering or raising ride height could be simply and quickly achieved by selecting one of the three axle holes that were often provided in these kits. I don't display my models upside down, however if the chassis is interesting and perhaps part of what defines the car, like on an old ford w/dropped axle, halibrand QC, etc., or an F1/Indy car, let's say, then I do go for good and accurate chassis detail. But, yeah, mid-year Corvettes and early Mustang (Falcon!) chassis were pretty mundane.
  3. Revell 1930 model A coupe kit

    The announcement for the release of the RMX '30 Model A Coupe in the "Coming Soon" section of Modelroundup is dated July...2016. This section of the site hasn't been updated in years. I would love to see them resurrect the tooling on both Model A kits and while they're at it fix the rear ends so that they have proper "buggy springs" w/banjo diffs, and Halibrand QCs, of course, as an option. That's the only thing about both kits that disuaded me from buying them. And, did the roadster come with an up-top?
  4. Palmer '70 Vette - what to do?

    Throw it away. Move on. Life is short. Buld the good stuff. Don't waste your time with such drivel.
  5. For space frames molded onto floor pans (commomn '60s practice), try this: Spray the frame rails, axles, etc., in your favorite shade of gloss or semi-gloss black (or whatever color). When it dries, brush paint the floor pan with whatever color you decide upon, flat black, red or grey primer, etc. It's much easier and faster to sidle up to the frame rails with a brush (and, even flow the paint along the rails) from the relatively flat surface of the floor pan than it is to paint the three small sides of the frame rails with a smallish detail brush, attempting to get a straight bead where the frame meets the floor pan. Especially if your using gloss paint on the frame, which tends to be less viscous than a flat paint, and requires more coaxing toward the edges, creating a wider margin for error. This will save on hours(?) (lots of mimutes?) of masking, too. If you need an authentic body-color overspray effect, then you would have to go back and mask a portion of the frame. I use this technique on my interiors as well; spray everything down with AlClad (or, now, with Molotow "chrome") and then go back and paint around, and up to, all of the "chrome" with the interior color. Often (most of the time) I will thin some of the interior color and flow it around the "chrome" details for a first pass, and then go back and nudge up to the details with a final, opaque coat of paint. This technique works well for picking out contrasting upholstery piping, too. Generally a good way of dealing with raised detail if you don't mind using a brush from time-to-time. PB.
  6. Time for AMT / Round @ to get going ?

    I remember talking my mom into buying the Wild Dream / Tognotti's T double kit for me in Woolworth's (remember them? Our's had a vast model section) in1963. I don't know how I pulled that off. I was usually denied. My wife opines that is why I have such a huge collection of kits today. Loved that kit, though! PB.
  7. Hi Randy, I received my HRM order yesterday, thank you. As usual, Harold's products are still of the highest quality. The 250 GTO tires are a nearly perfect fit for a vintage set of Detail Master PE Borranis w/turned rims that I was able to bag on eBay; a great wheel set and a shame they stopped making them. You have a great looking web site, BTW. Let me see, you had the forethought to hire a professional graphic designer, or, like many other modelers it seems, you are a pro (or have been) yourself? Anyway, regarding your note, the D-Type will be my second Profil 24 kit (finally a full detail D-Type! Yay!), however I'm just starting my first one: the 1953 Porsche 550 Carrera Panamericana. They have nicely proportioned and cast bodies and parts, but, like most limited-run niche kits (I have done a couple HRM Ferraris and the LM GT40), it does look to be a challenge (half the fun of it!) and requires a good amount of clean-up, etc. And, for instance, the Porsche has separate, "opening" doors, decklid and bonnet, however no provision for hinges; if they're to be operable it's up to the builder. Anyway, good luck with your new endeavor, and we'll certainly be doing business in the future. Best regards. PB.
  8. See The Usa In Your Electric Chevorlet

    Aaaah hah hah! Saw this coming :) Power generation, of course, which isn't going to go away, anyway. Yep, coal can be cleaned up. I was drafting/modeling up scrubber installations for coal plants back in the '80s. I guess the fines for not being in full compliance aren't high enough, though. Cheaper to pollute. Nuclear is the most efficient power source, and very clean until you have waste product; we were working on all kinds of whacky solutions for the DOE (and, more nefariously, for the DoD) back in the day. And, the public is afraid of nukes (thank 3-Mile-Island, Chernobyl and the Japanese tsunami), although there are very advanced redundant cooling systems such as those that we were designing for, ahem, production reactors, before the end of the Cold War put the kibosh on those programs. Don't forget hydro power. Totally renewable and very clean. Not cheap to build, though, which has always been a problem. But, you don't have to dam up rivers, create reservoirs and displace communities. We dug a channel into an elbow of the Mississippi 30 years ago and floated in a huge (it was almost as large as an aircraft carrier) power house (I think it had 10 or 12 turbines) and plugged it in. The river runs through it. It did cost a fortune, but not as much as a dam/reservoir and huge real estate acquisition and relocation. And then you have all the new renewables coming along. Not all are totally clean though. Solar and wind rely on storage, so the whole battery thing enters the equation (Yes, like electric cars. More engineering to do). I think the biggest challenge to powering up for a paradigm switch over to electric cars is distribution. The power grid is way over-taxed and has been for a long time, like the rest of our infrastructure. Lets's see: Obama wanted $500B for infrastructure (laughably naive low estimate for what was needed even "back then") and was shot down. Trump more realistically wants a trillion (still way too low - we need 2 trillion just for starters) and the republicans don't want to hear about it. Oh, well. So much for that job-creating idea.
  9. See The Usa In Your Electric Chevorlet

    We may as well be driving appliances, anyway. It seems like like everytime I get into the car nowadays I get stuck in traffic no matter how rural the setting, time of day, etc. Great that my LaGonzo XYZ can do 240 MPH, eh? I like hot rods, muscle cars and sports racers just as much as the next guy, but there's too many cars in regular use pumping exhaust into the atmosphere, all day long, everyday. Internal combustion automobiles are the largest producers of CO2 after power generation. Time to switch over to electric cars, walk more, get a bicycle, use mass transit, etc. Things change. That's life. It's simple. "They" will figure out the technology, especially as it get's more widely accepted and adopted, and there's a market and money to made, just like anything else. And, higher electric bills will be offset by what you no longer spend on gasoline. That's the way I see it. PB.
  10. New Jaguar D-Type from Profil24

    I've got the D-Type on the way. I contacted Profil 24 the other day about future availability of the Maser 450S and the Aston R1; there slated for re-release in 2018. Profil 24 will inform you via e-mail when a kit(s) is available. PB.
  11. Outstanding work, as usual! May I ask how you made the top? Never mind. I found the answer. Sorry
  12. Comfort Models, Ya Have One?

    Monogram Type 35 Bugatti; AMT '53 Ford F100; Monogram Blue Beetle; Monogram Little Deuce; AMT MB Gullwing. There's more, but these come right to mind. PB.
  13. 53 Ford, updated photo links

    Great paint, great build. What brand of acrylics did you use? PB.
  14. Yes, definitely throw them away. You can't sell them; they're not accurate renditions. Seriously though, I recently bought the Gunze w/engine knowing that the rear fender cut-outs were way off (for any GTO). The kit I picked up was significantly cheaper than the PE set w/wheels I was considering for my Fujimi GTO, so I figured "...what the heck?," maybe I can use the wheels and PE from the Gunze on my Fujimi. As it turns out, the Gunze "Borranis" are way too small for the Fujimi Avons so I ordered the Fujimi "15-inch" PE Borranis (you can still get them) w/turned aluminum rims (the Gunze rims are plastic). And, maybe I'll just go ahead and build the Gunze, anyway, after I fix the rear wheel cut-outs. The rear valance is much wider than on the Fujimi, too, and I'd have to say that the Fujimi is the more accurate body, by far. But the Gunze body has a voluptuousness to it that I like. These Gunze kits were released, what, 35-40 years ago? It's my guess that the masters of Gunze kits from this era were eyeballed and measured from photos. It really seems doubtful that they had access to drawings or actual 1/1 cars; other Gunze kits from that era are inaccurate as well. I have the full-detail XKE and though it's reasonably accurate, more so than any other XKE kit that I've come across, there's still issues. Funnily enough, the most glaring inaccuracy on the XKE is the upper back arch on the rear fender cut-outs! Happy modeling! PB.