Yes, definitely throw them away. You can't sell them; they're not accurate renditions. Seriously though, I recently bought the Gunze w/engine knowing that the rear fender cut-outs were way off (for any GTO). The kit I picked up was significantly cheaper than the PE set w/wheels I was considering for my Fujimi GTO, so I figured "...what the heck?," maybe I can use the wheels and PE from the Gunze on my Fujimi. As it turns out, the Gunze "Borranis" are way too small for the Fujimi Avons so I ordered the Fujimi "15-inch" PE Borranis (you can still get them) w/turned aluminum rims (the Gunze rims are plastic). And, maybe I'll just go ahead and build the Gunze, anyway, after I fix the rear wheel cut-outs. The rear valance is much wider than on the Fujimi, too, and I'd have to say that the Fujimi is the more accurate body, by far. But the Gunze body has a voluptuousness to it that I like. These Gunze kits were released, what, 35-40 years ago? It's my guess that the masters of Gunze kits from this era were eyeballed and measured from photos. It really seems doubtful that they had access to drawings or actual 1/1 cars; other Gunze kits from that era are inaccurate as well. I have the full-detail XKE and though it's reasonably accurate, more so than any other XKE kit that I've come across, there's still issues. Funnily enough, the most glaring inaccuracy on the XKE is the upper back arch on the rear fender cut-outs! Happy modeling! PB.
I remember purchasing the 1/8 Jag with S&H Green Stamps when I was a kid. Yep, the redemption outlet actually had them in stock. I'll never forget how excited I was when I had enough stamps saved up. That kit built up real nice, too. PB.
I always thought that the Squadron green was courser and meant for broad coverage, while the white was finer and meant more for "finish" filling and sanding (could swear that I read this on Squadron's web site, though I could be wrong). I used both for years and never had a problem with either, shrinking or otherwise. When Tamiya introduced their product I switched over and found it more to my liking, just as I prefer their masking tape to other's. I have tried CA as a filler and found that it dried much harder than the plastic, which, for me, caused problems when feathering, etc. I only bother with 2-part when putting a finish on metal bodies, but I really don't do much heavy filling/sculpting. When I do have large areas to close up or modify on styrene I prefer to "weld" in stretched sprue with Tenax 7R. PB.
The majority of my kits are 1/25, but I keep a "separate" collection of 1/24 so that I can build Ferraris, Porsches and other makes that you'd never find in 1/25. That 1/24 list includes all of the Monogram Classics, some interesting Heller releases such as the 4.5 Blower Bentley, Talbot Lago GP car, Type 50 Bugatti, BMW 528, Alfa Romeo 1750 Zagato, etc., and some really well-done Italeri classics ('33 Cadillac, Bugatti Royales). And then, of course, other interesting subjects from Tamiya, Fujimi, Hasegawa, and so on. PB.
Owned and sold but wish I still had: '74 SD455 T/A (bought it in '78 w/32K on the odo); '64 Impala SS (M-21 4-speed, tweaked small-block, TorqueThrusts, VERY deep black lacquer, Cali rake, tuck 'n roll); '66 VW Bus (21-window w/canvas sunroof, maroon and white); '60 VW Beetle (canvas sunroof, wedgewood blue. I bought it in '79 from the original owner: a little old lady who put 11K on it driving to her job as a school teacher a couple miles from her home); '71 Cal-look Karmann-Ghia convertible (built from the ground up. 2.0 Weber motor w/Abarth Monza exhaust; lowered and Konis, de-chromed, dark red w/black interior and top, Fuchs wheels); '84 VW GTI (My first brand-new car. I didn't sell it, however. It was stolen when I lived in NYC and it turned up in a NJ junkyard stripped to the bone. Replaced it with a Jetta (babies by then). Wished I had bought: '57 AH 100-6 (It had just been fully restored. Silver w/black coves. $3000.00 in '78 but the guy was selling it recoup drug money he was owed. I passed); '71 340 Cuda (Immaculate, adult-owned, low-mileage 4-speed car, Keystones on big 'n littles, Cali rake. $2700.00 in '77. Don't know why I backed out); '66 Chevelle SS-396 (Black on black, 4-speed, wheels, paint and rake just like my Impala, but a Chevelle). There were others, but I gotta get back to work... PB.
These guys have just about everything covered although I disagree with the recommendation to avoid tube glue. Depending on what best suits the application, I use the thin liquid cement for styrene, as well as 5-minute epoxy, CA (super glue), MicroScale liquid tape, white "school" glue, etc. The glue I probably use most often, though, is Testor's Model Cement for Plastic Models: tube glue. I find it very handy when I need a part to be held in place or need time to position a part. Yes, you need to remove paint or chrome plating to ensure proper adhesion, but I do that when using all of the other types of glue, anyway. Your husband will be familiar with it, I'm sure. And, I have been using a Testor's Aztec airbrush and compressor for over twenty years, without fail. Just my 2 cents. You're husband's a lucky fellow. My wife HATES that I have a hobby, be it in 1/25 scale or 1/1 scale! Merry Christmas! PB.
Super job on this 917K. I have one in the line up. Question: Did you use the kit decals for the stripes? Aftermarket decals? Or did you paint them on? If you painted them on, how did you handle the black pinstripes? Thank you. PB.