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alan barton

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  • Scale I Build
    mostly 1/25

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  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  • Full Name
    Alan John Barton

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    Alan Barton

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  1. Looking the goods, Bill! That little Windsor has come up sweet! Our two frames will look remarkably similar even though we started with two different units. Our rear extensions could be brothers of a different mother! I hope mine looks as good when it is done. Cheers Alan
  2. Totally! It's not that he has never built a hot rod before, but this is by far the most advanced one he's built and he absolutely nailed it. I guess if you are a good modeller you can build anything but the thing that gets me is, that resin body is not an authentic style - it is pure fantasy. Normally that sort of thing makes my nose wrinkle. But what Bruce did just makes you completely overlook that. Interesting that the full size car was maroon - Bruce told me he had plans to do it in a very dark brown metallic but found that not one, but two cans of Duplicolor in his stash were out of air. He hunted the city but could not find a replacement, even going to a paint store and asking them to do a custom mix - which the guy couldn't achieve without the paint code even though he had the Duplicolor part no. In the end he just went for the black and I don't think that was a bad thing at all! Part of me wants to replicate Bruce's model but using a JF 27 T roadster body rather than the 29 A, the other part of me wants to grab a spare Ala Kart bucket of which I have a few, and fabricate a similar turtledeck out of styrene. One thing Bruce mentioned about the build is that the firewall ended up very tight on the block and headers. Upon closer examination, I reckon the turtle deck could benefit from being 2-3 mm shorter, removed from where it joins the bucket. I don't want to move the back of the car forwards but I would like to move the firewall back, without having too much of an impact on the stance and proportions. Cheers Alan
  3. Couldn't agree more, Dennis! I keep going back to look at the photos - it is a little screamer! Thank you, also, AJ and Bob. I will make sure he sees your comments. Cheers Alan
  4. Hi guys, I just wanted to share with you this uber cool little roadster that my good friend Bruce placed on the table at last night's Perth and Districts Model Club monthly meeting. Now Bruce is normally a Pontiac guy and a NASCAR guy although he also strays into military aircraft from time to time. He cruises in an immaculate red 68 Pontiac GTO, a very unusual car here in Australia. So this model was quite a surprise. He said he saw a full sized version on the internet and took that as his inspiration. He started with a Revell 29 roadster kit, using the Deuce frame which has been Z'd at the front. To this he added a Revell Parts Pack Pontiac engine, naturally! He modified the kit headers to more accurately match the port spacing on the Ponty. The body is a Jimmy Flintstone item that appears to be based on the Ala Kart bucket body with a fabricated 27 T roadster style turtledeck hanging on the back. I gotta tell you, first impression was that I was looking at a 27, not a 28-29 - it is a very convincing conversion, partly disguised by Bruce's shiny black paint. Bruce said he filed the back of the cab down to suit the Model A seat. The grille is an AMT 32 unit that he shortened so neatly that you struggle to see the seam across the grille bars. This little hot rod just smacked me between the eyes - I want to build one now! Hope you enjoy it as much as I did. Cheers Alan
  5. That's a real shame but I do have one suggestion. My 1:1 roadster has no frame along the top of the glass, a look I really like. I copied another roadster from the sixties that made a real impact on me when I was a teenager. If you cut the badly bent top frame away and then gently massaged the lower frame that doesn't look so bad, I reckon you could get there. I would also someone how stick the frame down to a piece of glass and then use Modge Plodge to stick the "glass" into the frame to make it one solid unit before you attach it to the body. A second version would be to cut the top and bottom frames away entirely, glue the posts to the cowl and let dry over a few days and then use thin strip or maybe polished aluminium wire to replace the horizontal elements. It's going to be one of those joyless jobs but if you get to save a kit then the smile will come back. I wonder if this is happening only to the recent re-issue? I bought six of the initial release and didn't experience this problem. Hope that helps Alan
  6. All good Luke, I am a modelling machine at the moment but there have definitely been times when I haven't been able to drag myself out of the comfy chair in the lounge and into the model room. And bad days painting can exaggerate that situation! Hope you work through it soon - that is way too neat a model to be stalled! Cheers Alan
  7. Your proportions are looking great Luke. It has a very factory look to it and the stance is very contemporary. Are you going to go for a factory style colour scheme?. If I could make one suggestion to improve the details - currently, your B pillar seems to start a mm or so behind the door jam. As utes use sedan doors, the B pillar usually appears to be slightly forward of the trailing door edge. If you added about a 2-3mm strip onto the front edge of your B pillar, it would look more convincing as well as adding a window frame to the back of the door. The trick would be to add the strip WITHOUT filling in the join - this would create the door seam at the same time. Cheers Alan
  8. Thanks Kit! Got a bit done this weekend. After a bit of tidying up I got primer on the chassis. I used some Meng nut and bolt heads to detail some of the joints. Onto the final stages of body work now but still have to organise hood, radiator shell, headlights and hanging the doors. Cheers Alan
  9. That chassis and fender unit looks superb. I started a similar Vicky project , but in plastic, by grafting the top of the AMT body to the cowl of a Speedwagon, probably what the resin guys did. Its stalled for now but I am enjoying watching your progress so far. Cheers Alan
  10. Steve, a couple of years ago I wrote a model column on paint stripping for Australian Street Rodding magazine. I tried oven cleaner, caustic soda, brake fluid and iso-propyl alcohol. The only thing that budged Tamiya for me was Dettol disinfectant, diluted 50/50 with water. It took overnight and then takes a LOT of wiping and scrubbing to get the sticky mess off but off it did come. My first coat of Duplicolour primer after the strip revealed no issues. I'm not a fan of the smell and the clean-up is tedious but if you have old Tamiya, I think it is your only option. Cheers Alan
  11. Wow, you really captured the look there, Jim. Your research and careful consideration of the finishes has been rewarded. This must look amazing in the sun! Cheers Alan
  12. Ken, I don't think I have ever seen a weathering tutorial that was so precise in explaining exactly what you do. Thank you for taking the time, I will definitely be borrowing some of these tips in the future when working on engines in some of my dirt track racers. The tones on that Ducati engine are exactly what I am looking for. Cheers Alan
  13. Thank you Mark, for showing us all your work and especially the amazing variety of materials and processes you use to create your results. It is fascinating watching the progress of your model and the results of all your efforts. Cheers Alan
  14. I'm looking forward to the finished results on this one, Bob. I like the look of that engine - I haven't build one of the Chevy engined kits and I like the look of yours so far. Cheers Alan
  15. Wow, so much goodness there! That is stunning detail work, Bob. It is giving me a lot of inspiration. You see, when I was a kid I customised to death a 1964 Chevelle wagon. I have since acquired, at considerable cost, a replacement mint kit. I have been following the work of Steve G and yourself for some time and I think the time is fast approaching to tackle it, using the techniques that you guys have developed. Thank you for the inspiration, and for all the time you guys take to document the process. Cheers Alan
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