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      Board Status   07/20/2018

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alan barton

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About alan barton

  • Rank
    MCM Avid Poster

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  • Scale I Build
    mostly 1/25

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  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  • Full Name
    Alan John Barton

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    Alan Barton
  1. AMT 32 Ford Tudor

    Fair enough! Patrick, this will mean you will get rid of the woody body that you didn't like and also put a much more competent chassis and fender unit under the Tudor body. I am currently massaging an AMT Vicky body to fit the Revell fenders but there are three points to note, one of which I haven't quite resolved yet. 1.The AMT body hangs a bit low at the rear and interferes with the fuel tank. I found the easiest option in the long run was to carefully cut the Revell fuel tank free from the chassis and lower it a couple of millimeters - easier than cutting down the body and having to rebuild the lower swage mark. Haven't tried the MPC body yet. 2.You have to add a wedge shaped piece of plastic to the bottom of the AMT body to get it to sit level on the fender unit. Not hard but definitely time consuming to get nice bodywork. 3. The swage mark on the cowl won't quite line up with the swage on the Revell hood. Still have to come up with a solution there. Maybe a combination of AMT hood top with Revell hood sides - huh, just thought of that and now will have to wait until I get home to see if it will work! Cheers Alan
  2. AMT 32 Ford Tudor

    I grabbed some photos on my phone before I headed off for work so that you can see the differences between an MPC Tudor or Delivery and an AMT Tudor. The differences I see are as follows: AMT door handle is in swage lines, MPC door handle is below them on flat section of door MPC Body is taller at firewall and swage mark is higher as well MPC has noticeably taller windows (as per the Delivery shot) Note that even though I chopped the MPC body A LOT it is still not much lower than the AMT at stock height. From the rear, MPC bodies look much flatter sided and more upright. From rear, MPC body has an exaggerated upwards arc to the swage line. On the chopped Tudor ( I started this over thirty years ago!) you can see that I didn't need to lengthen the roof. On the front or "A" pillar, instead of shortening it by the amount of the chop, I cut a vertical notch into the A pillar after the roof was removed. I then dropped the whole roof down inside that notch. There was so much plastic there that I was able to reshape the front pillar to suit without any filler. If anyone has any tips for sanding the window reveals accurately after a top chop I would love to hear them! (Oh yeah, be gentle about my Delivery - it was built over 35 years ago and was my first spray can paint job ever. Rather than rebuild her, I am waiting for the new re-issue, if it ever gets to Australia!) Cheers Alan
  3. AMT 32 Ford Tudor

    Thanks everyone. I got sidetracked last night Patrick but will get to it tonight. My MPC Tudor is an unfinished chop top but I also have a built MPC delivery so I will grab a photo of it as well. Might even grab the current Revell body to join the party. I agree Dennis, the right hand side is definitely the tough side. I see the whitewall side representing a 59-62 era build while the blackwall side is much more contemporary - I see a lot of cars being built in Australia with this look, pretty much from the mid eighties onwards. Cheers Alan
  4. AMT 32 Ford Tudor

    Hi Patrick, they are definitely two very different bodies from two different manufacturers and two different eras. The AMT is from the early sixties and has the characteristic uphill slope along the bottom edge of the body. The MPC item is from the mid seventies and has a more accurate lower edge but to my eye at least looks a smidge too tall and a freckle too narrow. In other words, neither of them is perfect. To tell which ones you've got, check out the lower edge. If I get the chance when I get home form work, I will put up a photo of each one so you can tell. Cheers Alan
  5. AMT 32 Ford Tudor

    Thanks guys! As explained above, the Tudor is not sectioned and I did no bodywork other than restoration of a mild gluebomb ( it really was in good nick) and opening up the rear wheel arches so that reasonably wide tyres would fit under the fenders. The problem with all the AMT Deuces is the bottom of the body, the sills if you like. For whatever reason, instead of having them roughly parallel (albeit curved) to the running boards, AMT made it sweep upwards towards the firewall. I have found that dark colours go a long way towards hiding this anomaly on a full fendered car but I wouldn't dream of running one as a highboy or a channelled car - they just look awful! I've also included a photo of the Tudor with it's hood fitted. I forgot to mention that I also used a resin copy of the Rat Roaster firewall as the stock AMT one s pretty average in detail! My second body, one I had since I was a young teenager, had suffered many indignities in my school days including having the paint scraped off with a knife. It was never going to be restorable into a factory fresh body so a few years ago I knocked up this old jalopy from the California Jalopy Association days. My early butchery lent itself to the battered appearance of many of these cars. I cut open the roof insert and made a small gutter to replicate the sheet metal of these old bodies. The side rub rails or nerf bars help disguise that awkward sill that I spoke of. It is mostly AMT 32 parts with an AMT 40 Ford radiator and AMT 36 Ford wide five wheels - the rears are slightly wider versions from Fred's Resin Workshop when he was in business. Cheers Alan
  6. AMT 32 Ford Tudor

    I have been fortunate to find two AMT Tudor bodies over the years and even though the modern Revell kit is a far better model, for nostalgia stakes I wanted to see how I would go building a 50's style rod a with a contemporary twist. I used the following components to get the result you see here. Original AMT 32 Tudor body from the ancient Tudor/Willys double kit. Chassis, fenders, hood and grill from 32 Vicky kit. FE style engine from Vicky kit with aircleaner from Revell 32 Ford kit. Interior tub built from two Vicky units, cut offset to create a longer length. AMT Vicky custom" rear axle with "stock" rear spring Dropped headlight bar and taillights from Revell 32 kit. Steelies with AMT 50 Ford hubcaps. Fuel tank made from disposable razor cover partsbox.com resin dropped front axle I tried both the luggage rack and the spare tyre mount from other AMT 32 kits at the rear but it just turned it into a restored car so I left it with just a bumper. Colour is Testor's Classic black straight form the spray can. Interior is Testors Fabric red. I haven't built my Revell Tudors yet but for a quickie, I'm pretty happy with how the AMT version turned out. Cheers, Alan
  7. 1932 Ford 5-Window 60's Hot Rod

    What a great combination of parts! It is so nice to see such a well balanced approach to channelling a hot rod, as opposed to the distorted efforts of many rat rodders. Balance is everything! Nice job Dennis.
  8. What scale do you suppose these are?

    In the photo of the Merc the proportions look just a smidgeon off but I got to see this car pacing a field of dwarf cars at Arizona Speedway in 2014 and everything looked perfect. It was only the oversized head and arm in the window that made you go "Wadeaminnut............ Cheers Alan
  9. 32 ford woody

    Glen, this looks very nice and it does demonstrate how different a 32 Woody looks compared to a Model A woody. If I could make one positive suggestion, your engine bay looks a bit "open" like something is missing. If you dig up two long straight dressmaking or jewellery pins and glue them between the radiator and the firewall as radiator support rods as the real car would have, it will help tie the front of the car to the back. Carefully drilling a couple for small holes in the firewall about, say, 10-12mm either side of the centre will help you locate those pins. It is a simple trick that will add a lot to your model. Cheers Alan
  10. Revell '30 Ford

    Hi Kevin, On a real Model A, there is a thin sheet metal panel that joins the two centre or "b" pillars to each other. In other words, it becomes part of the bodywork - that is what is represented by the rear section of your model seat. Most likely painted body colour. The real seat would them comprise of a back and a base. The back would be attached to the sheet metal panel. It is a while since I built this kit but if you paint your seat (the front bit) in your interior colour and paint the rear in body colour (not saying you couldn't cover that in a fabric of some sort as well) then when you assemble it it will all work just fine, as Henry Ford intended. Hope that helps Alan
  11. 1934 Ford 2dr sedan

    Your chop has done much to disguise the awkward proportions of the AMT 34 Tudor. One of the better built versions of this kit that I have ever seen. Cheers Alan
  12. whats the rarest model you own and did you build it?

    I had these two as a kid but they were glue bombs when I got them and my teenage efforts did nothing to improve them. When I went to live in Canada for a year back in 1996, one of my holy grails was to find a mint kit. I got talking with Tom Geiger and arranged to attend NNL East with him. Walked into the traders hall and on the VERY FIRST STALL was this box and an unbuilt channelled green coupe - the stocker was gone. It was near enough for me although the vendor still probably can't believe his luck that some dumb Aussie was keen enough to pay his kinda outrageous asking price. I found the stocker years later, built up cleanly but assembled with some glue that never was going to let go. A patinaed car made sense because I was never going to be able to organise a clean paintjob on a fully assembled model. I don't know how rare these are in terms of production numbers (does anyone?) but I will call them my rarest for now and as you can see I built them! Cheers Alan
  13. Hubley 1930 Duesenberg Phaeton

    I was going to use JB Weld on my Hubley Model A's but I hadn't thought of reinforcing with mesh. Great idea! I will also be making a point of using an automotive etch primer before I start the normal painting process as my experience customising Hot Wheels cars shows that regular hobby paints and primers chip easily. Cheers Alan Cheers Alan
  14. Auctual "Barn Find" Hubley Ford.

    I only just stumbled onto Hubley cars a few years ago and have all the Model A's, the hot rod, a 32 Chevy 5 window and a cool channelled Chevy hot rod that I won off eBay. You might be interested to know that the Model A clubs in Australia race Hubleys as well! They probably go faster than a real one! Cheers Alan
  15. Revell '29 Roadster, Late '50s Style

    This is one case where having the radiussed wheel arches actually helps because a lot of channelled cars with fenders had them welded up higher on the body. I can't wait to see how it looks with the trimmed fenders - this is a style I have had in mind ever since I bought the Revell kits. Yeah, just a smidge is all it needs at the back. Cheers Alan