Ha ha, too funny!!!! Actually, while I'm still working out this issue I haven't glued the steering box onto the frame -it's just waiting for everything else to get sorted before I glue it in place. I think this is very much the type of model that you need to build once to get your head around things before building the second (and third, and fourth and...). I was really pushing to get this one finished for our clubmeeting last week so it didn't get the benefit of a mockup as I would normally do. I'm sure it is fixable! Dyno Davo has just given me some M&H slicks that we think are from the Boothill Express - the rubber rake is now awesome and they fill up the radiussed wheel arches sooooooo much better. I'll post another pcik when she's back together. Cheers Alan
Hey Tom, the right hand side is the RIGHT side! The roadster is not quite finished - I haven't glued the body down yet because there is a slight bind causing the left hand side to ride high - I expect it might be the mufflers interfering with the radius rods and forcing the floor up. There is also a pesky mark on the windshield that wasnt there when I took it to our clubmeeting last week - I'll have to fix that. Tim, I want to thank you for your input in getting this car to market. I had been in a slump for over six months and this little roadster woke me up right away! And that lovely Buick, exhaust spacing or no exhaust spacing, will make a great start for a Tommy Ivo T bucket replica and a Tony Nancy A/R replica. Too cool! I'll be buying lots of these. I am well on the way to having my first kitbash finished - all the leftovers with a Jimmy Flinstone chopped 29 coupe body and probably the leftover Hemi from the new Slingster kit (another home run for Revell!) My intention is that the only leftover parts from the 29 kit wil be the third set of headlights! That, people, is value for money, even at Aussie prices!
I'm going to try my luck with photo posting as it has been disastrous of late. My good mate Marty (59Buick) got this in for me from the USA and I spent four nights and one afternoon on it. Love the model, warts and all, and will be buying at least four more. I followed Tim and Drew's advice and hogged out the front crossmember and shaved the spring til it was wafer thin. Wheels are from Revell 32 Ford kits, using a Monogram NASCAR outer rim to widen the rears. I am not totally happy with the tyre choice but second time was better than the first! Small MPC on the front, and either Revell M&H or Revell Rat Roaster on the rear. I had some old AMT Firestone Supreme redines on the front but the size, profile and stance was all wrong - a shame since the redwalls planted it right in 1965 where I wanted it. Paint is Testors One Coat lacquer straight over bare plastic. I can't understand why Revelll put a 30/31 firewall in a 29 (and technically if the new 30 coupe is accurately scaled it shouldn't fit that either) so I sawed about 3mm off the front and glued printers aluminium over the top and carved it to shape. Took about an hour and I am very pleased with the result. Love the accurate windshield frame, love the long pegs on the door handles that let you glue them from inside the bod, love the great fit of the interior panels and seat, love the nailhead. love teh3 choice of headlights. Not wild about the radiused wheelarches or the firewall and the height of the front end but none of these things are deal breakers. It's a hot rod, there is no such thing as "stock"!
Hi Drew, first off congratulations on a very nice model. I don't know if yhou remember me but nearly 20 years ago you put my IMCA modified in your column. Like you, I drive a full size Model A hot rod (daily when I can) and like you I often anguish over matters of proportion and stance when it comes to hot rods. I would like to suggest that the problem with this kit is not the kit itself but the real car style it replicates. Quite simply, Model A roadsters on Model A rails, whether they be channelled or hiboy have that huge gap underneath, The dead straight rails of a stock Model A frame just keep everything else suspended way too high off the ground. I can recall that when the price of 32 rails, either original or repro, went ballistic in the late eighties/ early nineties, there were a bunch of fenderless Model As built here in Western Australia with the Model A frame and they all had a similar stance to the one on your model that so bothers you. It's just the way it is. When you go back through late fifties/early sixties magazines there were some really slinky Model A lowboys featured but if I recall they often used a suicide front end that got the front of the frame way down, helping the stance and closing up the unsightly gap. Put another way, imagine the gorgeous Niekamp or Dick Flint roadsters without their bellypans - they too would have that huge gap underneath them! Don't know if that makes you feel any better about it but I bet you like your next model on 32 rails much more betterer! Cheers Alan
When i read your post this morning the photo didnt come up so I couldn't comment on your work. This afternoon it is up and it looks terriific. It would be great to see yours side by side with mine and see how much difference the 4 mm makes. From your photo, as you said, not much at all! Great to see you have the correct radius rods, the silver frame and the correct shape on the bottom edge of the hood side panels. Like you, I studied this thing to death before I built it - I reckon I could build a real one with what I know now. That surprises me actually - in all my magazines and all my travels I have never seen a clone of this car detail for detail. I believe an Englishman hand formed a beautiful polished aluminium 4 banger powered rod in slightly reduced scale back in the nineties and I saw a blue 27 T with very similar proportions on the front of Street Rodder a few years ago but no-one has done a true replica. Considering what a simple car it is compared to say, the Matador 40 coupe or the Hirohata Merc, it seems like a lost opportunity. With the availability of glass or tin Model A roadsters and the lack of extensive chroming or exotic parts, this could be a real budget build in 1:1! Cheers Alan
Thank you Tom, Tim, and Bill, I started with the Revell track nose and massaged it quite a lot before casting a solid one out of Bondo to use as a plug for my vacforms. What I love about vacforming is that you end up with a rigid piece that is about .5mm thick and you can make as many copies as you like - I still have all the molds after 23 years and unlike RTV they don't deteriorate with age or use. I think I have sold 12- 20 sets of these parts over the years but have never seen another one built up. The new Revell kit would be nice for a Niekamp as I struggled to find suitable tyres, especially for my second, 1950, version and the separate molding on top of the cowl would be far more accurate for a lakes version. The front nerf was modified from an Edmunds Supermod kit and the rear is bent from a paperclip - a pig of a job as I remember! Richard, I used the Rod and Custom article in the seventies when Jim Jacobs found and started restoring the car and it included a reprint of the Hot Rod article. I was sure they said a four inch section and thinking about it as a hot rodder with a real '29 roadster, I can't imagine whay you would only shorten a car by 1 inch. I'm not saying that isnt what you read, it just seems such an awful amount of work for a teeny weenie change.
Hi guys, I have had plans on doing the Dick Flint roadster for years but I HAVE built not one but two versions of the Niekamp roadster. The first one I built has a windshield and lives permanently in the Oakland Roadster Show diorama in Salt Lake City. Some of you may have seen it before because it is in the front row of the display and often shows up in photos of the diorama. The second version is done sans windshield and with a tonneau cover as in the photo above. One twist - I put the steering wheel on the right as I do with most of my collection - it's an Aussie thing! I have my own vacforming machine and I carved wooden moulds for the nose, hood, bellypan floor and spring covers and then vacformed the parts with 1mm high impact styrene plastic. I used the photoetched grille that comes in Model Car Garage's Model T track nose part. This is a perfect size but has slightly squared off lower corners - at least they tend to be hidden behind the nerf bar. And yes, both my models are shortened 4mm to match the four inch shortening that Bill did to the real car. Remember, the real car had the left hand door welded shut so shortening it isn't that hard, especially if you hinge the shortened right hand door like I did. (By the way, I'm thinking that MCG's Model A track nose might be a good start on the Eddie Dye car.) I hand mixed the colour for my first version and airbrushed it but cheated on my second one using a Tamiya spay can but cant remember the name of the blue just now - maybe Leighton House blue? It was surprisingly close. I soldered up a half chassis from K&S brass and then slid it in to the front of the car - there is no point building a full frame as it is totally hidden by the bellypan. Instead, I inserted a length of aluminium tubing through the centre of the spring covers and then used the next size down tubing as a rear axle. The motor I used was the 49 merc flathead with 50 Ford chromed heads. There may be better stuff available now but I built both these in the early nineties so that's what I used. I made the unique taillights by doing some very careful cutting and filing on a set of 49 Merc taillights - you have to work with ridiculously small pieces of plastic here but they look convincing when done. Unfortunately I have been frustrated beyond belief trying to use Photobucket this year so I don't have photos to post - Tim, maybe you might have some somewhere that you could pop up here? Cheers Alan
Haven't tried Photoshop for ages so I hope this works. This was built on a resin MPC Slammer (57 Chevy style) modified frame and has Tamiya Formula 1 slicks at the rear. I think it has a much tougher look than the recently reissues of the MPC Pinto modified.
I have only ever had a gluebombed Poison Pinto but that eased the guilt about cutting it up! The body with the front clip removed makes an awesome east coast Pinto modified body. I'll try and find a photo. The 429 Shotgun in this kit is a beautiful moulding and looks great in over the top hot rods - the extra size of a 1/24 scale engine in a 1/25th scale kit just adds heaps to the impact in my humble opinion.
Firstly, like everyone else here, a huge thanks to Tim for the awesome review. I'm so tempted to copy Tim's colour scheme and just swap the steering column to the correct side. Here in Australia it will probably be 3-6 months before we see it, if recent new kits are anything to go by, and at between $50 and $60 a pop. But as the owner of a real 29 roadster, I will be buying a bunch. The wheel arches won't trouble me too much because I have a good stash of AMT bodies but I do have a suggestion for Revell if they go down this path again. See, they already made the inner wheel wells as part of the interior panels, right? So imagine if they had made standard wheel wells for the highboy interior trim panel and raised wheels wells for the channelled interior trim panel. Then, mould the roadster body with stock wheel arches but with a little groove marked on the inside of the body showing the cutting line of the raised wheel arches. After all, it is far easier to hog out some wheel arches than to reduce the arc of them. Having the correct size wheel well panels would make it a doddle to finish off either version. And for once, here is a suggestion that that the manufacturer could do without any change at all to pattern making costs, parts count or plastic quantity. Wouldn't it be fantastic if the 30 Coupe body came that way (and the 29 coupe, 29 Tudor, 29 Tourer, 31 Vicky ........... I can dream can't I?
Gene, I just saw this for the first time and I'm loving the quality of your build. I too have been caught out before where you paint a body and then realise there was work you should have done before hand.. Soooooooo, if the exhaust ports are still bothering you (on the one hand, they'.re at the back, on the other hand, it will annoy you whenever you look at the back!) what about using some thin aluminium tape or printers aluminium to make two small oval blanking plates and stick them over the ports. Would look like the guy working on the factory steel shell just needed a quick fix, like so many racecars had. Just a thought.
In regards to the roadster v cabriolet issue, Art is correct but I can see where you are coming from. The Yellow Jacket is built from a cabriolet body but gives the impression of being a roadster by virtue of leaving off the cabriolet body parts north of the waistline. I have a Yellow Jacket and it definitely looks like a roadster but if there ever was a model of a 1930 Model A roadster you would see that the doors are longer and the cockpit is longer. As a result the back of the body drops down quicker than a roadster body and the beaver panel is shorter as the trunk lid is slid down to match. I drive a real Model A roadster and have some coupe quarter panels (same as cabriolet) in my garage and the differences are not obvious from a distance but very evident when side by side.
No pictures but the AMT 39/40 Ford Tudor had one reissue where it was proudly called a 39/40 Coupe. I believe there was a Reveloogram Top Fuel rail that announced that it was the season champion when the season wasn't over yet - can't remeber the details - Amato maybe?
The one I have never seen mentioned anywhere, however, is the green and white box art for the MPC Fire Tuck show rod. No matter how hard I look there is no evidence of a frame rail in the engine bay - radius rods are there, engine is there, but nothing to hold the front of the car to the back of the car!