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alan barton

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About alan barton

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    mostly 1/25

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    Perth, Western Australia
  • Full Name
    Alan John Barton

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    Alan Barton

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  1. What a great combination of parts Ray! You've got me excited - I have the same body and frame in my stash and it's a combo I really like. After all, this is virtually the same as what Garlits did with his Dart roadster funnycar so it is definitely feasible. I'm also really enjoying the very business - like finishes you put on the frame components and the clever use of funnycar headers to get the exhaust outside the body. Great model! Cheers Alan
  2. That is magnificent, Rodney. Only this week I had the Revell and Monogram coupes side by side trying to contemplate if this was doable. Looks like my first call was wrong. Did you have to shorten the fender unit at all to make up for the scale difference? Cheers Alan
  3. Noel, the manufacturer of that Ford Prefect 100E was Premier - if you google it you will find pictures including the box. I have a glue bombed version in my stash but a friend of mine is doing a full detailed fully corrected version of one that will look outstanding when finished. Out of the box it is slightly better than a Palmer, but not by much! Cheers Alan
  4. You might be onto something there - I can see the resemblance! Cheeers Alan
  5. Thanks for that Anthony! Looking at that photo, when we are criticising modern cars for all looking the same, we can forget that it has always been like that! If I didn't have so many other WIPS already, i think it would be fun to attempt the conversion! Cheers Alan
  6. Anyone know what that body is? I'm guessing a Dodge body by Budd but it is simply a guess. It wouldn't take a lot of work to to convert a Model A coupe into this body style - cowl doors, windshield opening and swages removed from rear quarters would be a good start. Cheers Alan
  7. That is stunning - I am going to have to pinch that idea. What a beautifully simple conversion. It is satisfying to see that the exhausts on the nailhead help divert your eye from the AMT 32 Section job. Wheels and tyres look great also. I have Vicky bodies, I have 29 hiboy frames - this will happen! Cheers Alan
  8. I agree with everyone here, the Revell 29 and 32 series kits just might be the greatest hot rod kits ever! The range of options and degree of swapability is a godsend to hot rod modellers. I don't believe engine choices are a big deal with a hot rod because you can put whatever you like in one No-one seems to have mentioned that both series included modern automatic transmissions - another bonus seeing as how most kits over the years have either included a four speed or heaven forbid, the old 39 Ford 3 speed crash box. Again , so nice to have options. The coilover rear ends ( and to a lesser extent the airbag rear end in the 32 series) finally gave us some well crafted modern hot rod hardware to fit under any rods. There is no shortage of Revell buggy spring and rear crossmember parts out there if you need to backdate. Now I'm fussy about my roadster bodies because I drive a real one. The AMT body is definitely the more accurate one but after all these years the swage lines are getting a bit soft on the rear quarters and the tank to cowl line is a nightmare to try to make an inny instead of an outie. At least the rear wheel arches are simpler to fix, just glue some short strips of Evergreen into the slots and they look great. The Revell body is very good as well as being nice and fresh. The HUGE advantage over every Model A kit ever made by anyone is the brilliant windshield frame and posts. No-one else ever got this right. It is easily adapted to the AMT body and makes a huge improvement. The radiused rear wheel wells are frustrating because practically no-one in the full sized rodding world does that. If the Revell designers really wanted to have those raised arches on the channeled car, they could have simply moulded in a cut line on the inside of the quarter panels ( remember when AMT and MPC used to do this?) and then included the raised arches as part of the channelled car interior panels. Would need no more plastic and no more parts but would have made the kit even more versatile. The other bit that I can't understand and can't think of a reason for is the 30 style firewall in the 29 body. I always thought Revell was simplifying their moulds by using one universal firewall but when the coupe turned up we saw that wasn't the case at all. The firewalls in the roadster and coupe kits are entirely different yet both based on the 1930 design. I will again go out on a limb and say that this has NEVER been done on a real car! Why would you - you just lose engine room in the already tight confines of a 29. These things aside, they still get my vote. I have 6 roadster kits, two coupes and will probably buy more. Cheers Alan
  9. Hey Jim, another option for a coffin shaped scoop would be the body from a Hot Wheels Rigor Motor 1/64th toy. It was Mattel's take on Grandpa's Dragula from the Munsters TV show and it has some nice detail. Love the insanity we are seeing here - don't stop now! Cheers Alan
  10. Go for it! Just a thought, could you graft the last half an inch of the Riv body onto the back of the Deora to keep the Buick theme running right through? I reckon that lean could really go with the flow of this design. Cheers Alan
  11. This is one of my favourite types of model and you have done a great job. You have proven conclusively just how important it is to fit appropriately sized wheels and tyres to the cars in the Motor City Stockers series. The ones AMT chose did the models no favours at all! Go easy on the weathering - this could easily be a new car to the track and I love the way it looks now! Cheers Alan
  12. Jimmy Flintstone does a resin 5w coupe. I showed my build in Under Glass last year sometime. It is a reasonable effort, not perfect, it is chopped and needs some reworking of window openings and gutter lines. There has never been a styrene 28/29 Model A coupe and there have been almost no diecast ones. I have a 1/43 scale stocker in brown and black, can't remember the manufacturer, and Maisto did a channelled rat rod style one in 1/64th scale as well as a larger version in 1/24th but again, not perfect. I have a stock bodied 29 A roadster hot rod in my garage and an IKEA flatpacked 29 5 window coupe down the side of the house so I can give you some insight as to what is necessary to build a styrene version. First, you will need the cowl, front doors and some of the roof from an AMT 28 Tudor. A fairly rare kit but you might find a glue bomb. Next, you will need the quarter panels and trunk area from an AMT 29 Roadster but they will be far from a direct fit. Here's why. The passenger opening on a coupe 1/4 panel is exactly the same size and shape as the opening on a roadster panel. I've checked it by mocking up the 5w quarter window with the roadster 1/4 panel. It's a match. Because the coupe uses the longer Tudor doors, you need to first take a horizontal slice on the quarters from say just below the swage line to remove the passenger opening. You will also need to make a vertical cut down through the upper trunk lid line to separate the piece from the body. Then you would need to shorten the quarter panel approximately 4mm back from the rear door line. Next, you would need to cut the quarter panels free from the trunk and beaver panel before realigning the 1/4 panels up to the Tudor body. You would then carefully reattach the passenger opening onto the top of the two, now shorter, quarter panels Coupes and roadsters use the same trunk lid but the beaver panel is significantly shorter on a coupe so the trunk lid needs to be moved further around towards the bottom of the car. Re reading this shows I am struggling to explain this clearly!!!!! Both the beaver panel and tulip panel on the roadster are wider than coupe ones. Having done all this work, there will be one aspect that would be very hard to fix. If you get to see a square on side view of both the roadster and coupe bodies, you will see that both the profile and the swage lien on the rear of the body drop significantly more quickly than the one on the roadster. I'm not saying it would be impossible to do, just very challenging. I have all the parts to do it plus the desire to have one in my collection but it hasn't happened yet. Greg's idea of combining a Monogram 29 pickup and a 30 coupe is feasible and has been done before. The late Chris Dansie of Queensland Australia did a lovely one some years ago BUT there are a lot of differences between the lines and contours of a 29 and 30 coupe. It all depends how particular you are nailing the details of a 29. Best of luck, Alan
  13. Wow! I cant imagine how much work that took! This looks like it is as close to totally scratchbuilt as you can get with a kit. it is a credit to you. I wonder how many others ever got built? Cheers Alan
  14. Hi guys, I'm going to have to dig very deep in my memory here and others on here may be able t help. They definitely came off a Monogram Camaro that I bought in the early eighties. This was a red car with very street machine style graphics and I THINK but cant be sure that it was called Street Stalker. It was the Gen 2 body with the sloping front and full wrap around rear window, say 77 or so? Maybe someone else can fill in the gaps. Those wheels always struck me as looking like Borrani wires. The wires in the sidemount spares are something else, I am thinking Monogram Deuce roadster, the yellow edition with black flames on the box art. Hope that helps a bit Alan
  15. The AMT tub can be built up into a nice model but it definitely has a lot of issues. The tapered section that all AMT 32s suffer from, a very toylike windscreen and the whole kit dates back to 1959 origins which means it doesn't have any where near the sharpness of a modern era kit. The MPC 32 tub is also rather toy like and to my eyes is too narrow at the rear. The cowl is too square and the firewall is all wrong and it also has a toylike windscreen. Some years ago, I did a body conversion for a friend who owns a real 32 tub street rod. I grafted the rear doors and tub of the AMT body to a Revell cowl and front doors. As I recall I cut the revell body from the lower corner that touches the front of the rear fender, diagonally forward and upwards toward the rear of the front door. This gave me as much as possible of the good Revell body and just enough of the AMT body to make it a tub. I recall that it worked out really well but it was long before I was taking photos of my models. Fun fact - the AMT body is actually Australian. It was reputed to have been scaled from LA Roadster club member Dick Scritchfield's rod. Dick had purchased the body from Australian Custom Rodder magazine publisher, Eddie Ford. The most obvious difference is that the Aussie body is one piece while the US body is three piece like a Model A. Here's the AMT kit I finished last year. It uses the old Monogram 32 roadster windscreen. There is a thread on it here that you might like to search for.
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