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alan barton

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About alan barton

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    MCM Ohana

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    Yes
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    mostly 1/25

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  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  • Full Name
    Alan John Barton

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    Alan Barton

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  1. Thanks Steve! I will use that photo to correct the mouldings around the front. At this stage I only have the custom grille for a 63 to fit into the front but I have til July to find a 61 - I do have a childhood build of the 61 convert so maybe I should resin cast that one? In the diorama it will be standing on it's nose as the rear axle leaves the building , cops at the wheel and a bit of smoke and dust from underneath. Looking forward to it - it's been fun so far! Cheers Alan
  2. The green of shampoo - smooth as!!!! There was a very cool 29 roadster on the Aussie rod scene back in the nineties and the guy had the paint matched to a shampoo sample, and had SHAMPOO for licence plates. Cheers Alan
  3. Yeah, definitely a big fan of the restos! Tom, that 57 custom is exactly the combination of parts that I used on my very first 1/25th scale build, after graduating from 1/32 scale Lindbergs, Pyro, Aurora and Airfix.. Many of the hot rods in my collection are restos as it was the only way I could afford a copy, especially in the eighties before all the re-issues. My latest build is for our annual club diorama. We are going to do multiple themes of American Graffiti. I had been given a gluebombed AMT Galaxie - the body, hood with a hole, and the complete weirdly painted interior. I have no idea what year this Galaxie is because Every single chrome trim, body line or moulding had been filed from the body!!!!! It could be a 61,62 or 63 - the experts here may be able to tell. I have a mint 63 chassis that will go under it but as you can see, i have started roughing a 4 door Town Sedan roofline so that I can do the iconic rear-axle-ripped - from - the-police-car-scene. Got a long way to go but near enough WILL be good enough for this project and I don't have to pay eBay prices to get started.
  4. Duke, I have built two of these roadsters, on here somewhere, and you are absolutely correct about the headlight posts looking goofy. However, it is a fairly simple if not a little fiddly fix. You take a small, square file, and file the chassis mounting notch back on those posts as far as you dare, and upwards a bit as well. That's all it takes and it makes a big difference. While you are at it, you need to get a coarse file and file the back of the lower surface of the Model A grille. to paper thin. The limitations of plastic moulding means that the grille is over an inch thick if it were scaled to full size and that pushes it way too far forward.. Probably wouldn't hurt to give the front surface of the crossmember a shave as well! If you use the headlight posts from the kit, modified or not, you really need to use the smallest of the three headlight options. All the lights and lens are beautifully moulded and very useful but IMHO way too big for a Model A hiboy. Hope that helps Cheers Alan
  5. Thanks for that, Tim. As a keen dirt track modeller, this is one I have never had so it will be a welcome addition to my sedan racers. Especially interesting to see the amount of detail in the chassis - with a bit of work to the front end it should look very satisfying. With all the wonderful decals Round 2 has done of late, it is just a pity that they didn't come up with a new, era correct set for this release. That old Modified Stocker sheet is getting pretty long in the tooth, and just how many "Tinys" can you have driving your race cars anyway? Thanks again, Cheers Alan
  6. Thanks guys for the kind words. It was nice to do a straight forward model for a change. I did notice from the photos that I neglected to detail the rear wheels so I will get onto that. I would also like to add C/G class designation and some sort of artwork for the grille insert but just haven't found the right design yet. And Paul, all early Australian Willys had coachbuilt bodies, probably by Holden but perhaps Richards, I'm not certain. In the 33-36 range, we had roadsters, phaetons, roadster utilities and four door sedans also, very rare, a sports coupe. There has been a hot rodded one on the Australian scene for decades now but I know of no others. And that is not that unusual here in Australia. Our market was so small that some bodies were produced in tiny numbers. A good friend of mine has a Holden bodied 39 Willys coupe. It is noticeably different in shape to its American counterpart. According to Holden build statistics, it is either 1 of 1, or 1 of 2 ever made! We are not sure as we don't know which specific body style his is identiefied as. Put it another way, in Australia in 1939, there were exactly THREE Willys coupes manufactured. Makes a 32 roadster look kinda common, eh? Cheers Alan
  7. It is easy to imagine this one in real life Marcel. The colours, the proportions and the detail are all perfect. Combining the chop with the channel works so well. Cheers Alan
  8. Congratulations, Ismo, you have yourself a 35 Plymouth roadster! It is amazing how you have completely hidden the Chevrolet origins of your model. You have also nailed the stance and generally menacing presence of this rod.. And the colour looks pretty close too! Top effort! Cheers Alan
  9. My last build for 2019 was this Willys. It was a great kit to build and very straight forward - my only issue was that despite appearing to have well moulded suspension pieces and a warp free chassis, unfortunately I've ended up with one wheel pawing the air - a bit weird but I will fix it. I attempted to take the "George" out of this model by replacing the 427 SOHC that seems to be in every '33 Willys model we ever see with a more likely 327 Chevy. I scrounged up an injection manifold and used the stacks from the Beverley Hillbillies" Oldsmobile, mainly because they just peak through the opening in the hood. Not sure where I sourced the block from although the black plastic suggests MPC. I transplanted the Ford auto from the SOHC engine to make it simple to install the Chevy into the frame - I'm sure someone must have adapted a C6 to a Chevy once upon a time! Toughest job was arriving at a set of headers that would allow the hood to close - I eventually turned to hand bent solder pipes with flattened aluminium tubing collectors. Other than opening the hood bulges and switching the steering to the right hand side, it is pretty much box stock - oh yeah, swapped out the Halibrands for Cragars and steel rims. Hope you all like it. Cheers Alan
  10. Plenty of Aussies here, Ben, welcome to the mob! Just remember to say hood, trunk and tires instead of bonnet, boot and tyres and you will fit in fine! Good luck with the Dodge. Which side of the country are you on? Cheers Alan
  11. Jim, when you are ready to fit the windshield frame, don't be shy! Use whatever combination of glues, epoxies, pinning, welding etc you have in copious amounts because for some reason they commonly come off! The one on my shelf is the old Matchbox version that was in blue plastic and it cracked away several times BEFORE I got it painted and then came loose again later on. Makes no sense to me but I've seen other examples with the cracked paint in this area or missing them altogether so it's worth keeping in mind. Like where this one is going - they definitely are a cool shape! Cheers Alan
  12. Great to see someone replicating original factory construction techniques! This is going to be sooooo cool. Cheers Alan
  13. That is stunning paint Dennis and a perfect match for the style of rod you are building. I will look forward to its completion! Cheers Alan
  14. Ismo, it is important to know that Australian cars of the 1930s were based on American cars as far as the chassis and front sheet metal goes, but usually had locally manufactured, often coachbuilt, body shells. The government of the day gave tax breaks to encourage local manufacture. Therefore, you are far better off doing what you are doing with actual photos of the spider bait car rather than using the other photos that people have kindly offered. Most of these are pure American bodies. What will make your job easier to some extent is the fact that the Australian bodies often lacked the intricate details and complex curves of the OEM bodies. I am not sure if the car was ever featured in any Australian magazines but that might be another way. Or Google Australian 35 Dodge here's a link to the first image I found. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:1935_Dodge_DU_Roadster_(12513603304).jpg Hope that helps, cheers, Alan
  15. Steve, I've been a hot rodder since I was twelve, both 1/25 and 1/1 so there is virtually nothing on my shelf that hasn't felt the knife. But every time I see one of your magnificent showroom stock artworks on here it makes me want to cross over to the dark side and tackle an unmodified car. The razor sharp precision of everything you do leaves me in awe of just what a human being can achieve. Thank you for sharing all your techniques with everyone here as we all benefit from your patience, your expertise and your methodical approach to mode car building. A few years ago I found a holy grail of mine, a 64 Chevelle wagon. I hope to eventually master my airbrush skills sufficiently to tackle a project along these lines, maybe with a set of Americans like the Plymouth. Cheers Alan
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