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alan barton

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    mostly 1/25

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    Perth, Western Australia
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    Alan John Barton

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    Alan Barton

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MCM Ohana

MCM Ohana (6/6)

  1. Thanks Bob, Paul and Mario. And Chris, I would love to take credit but I am pretty sure that I got the idea for the grille from a model I saw here years ago! And now that I look at it, I remember that while I INTENDED to use the ripple bumpers, I ended up using the stock forty bumpers instead! I was going for a very simple look on this custom. You just have to massage the bumper irons with the heat of your fingers to get them to fit the 40 bumpers nicely. Thanks everyone, glad you like it. Cheers Alan
  2. I have been building very complex models over the last few years with lots of bodywork so I really felt like taking it easy and doing a simple box stock build. Almost. This is about as close as I get to box stock! It was built from the recent re-issue and used mostly parts from the box, the exceptions being flipper hubcaps and ripple bumpers from the AMT 40 Ford Sedan Delivery kit, the custom headlights and grille, plus my obligatory right hand drive conversion. The headlights started out as the chromed conical tips from two ballpoint pens and the grille is the custom Buick unit from the AMT 57 Chevy, trimmed to fit the elongated opening of the kits custom grille shell. It is basically stock running gear but I dropped the rear as far as it would go without major surgery and used some bits of sheet styrene to convert the single carb manifold into duals. Paint is Tamiya Metallic Red over Tamiya flat black topped with about three coats of Tamiya clear gloss, all straight from the spray can. I was a Testors fan forever but as it is no longer available in Australia I am slowly developing my skills on the Tamiya paint - it does require a different approach to what I am used to. Hope you like it. Cheers Alan
  3. That was fun! Didn't know what to expect but I really enjoyed it. And congratulations on a very fine build. Cheers Alan
  4. I've always had a soft spot for wagons, having spent the formative years of my life in the back of one but wow, this is so NICE! I might have to copy this colour scheme for one of my own! Cheers Alan
  5. Nice work Gustavo! I had planned the same conversion and already had the wheel arches filled and the strip of Evergreen added around the waistline, just like yours. That was as far as I got so your finished product is certainly a great inspiration to get mine finished! Cheers Alan
  6. Pleased to say that my issue 213 arrived here in Perth Western Australia on the 23rd of May, less than a month after it was posted in the USA. That is a massive improvement on the five plus months it took for Issue 2010 to arrive hear. Since last year, I received issue 209, 211, 212, 210 and 213!!! who knows what the postal pixies are up to?!?!?
  7. Next up will be a Monza, and this model will be a replica of the "Super Chook" Kentucky Fired Chicken car. For the Americans in the audience, Aussies call a chicken, a chook. If you are going to KFC, you are going to get some chook for dinner. Thus, the name of the car. It was driven quite successfully by Leo Gommers at Claremont Speedway and later by Colin Knox. The original version had very protruding cylindrical flares but later received an IMSA style body kit - this is the version I am going to build. Like the Corvette above, the Monzas were popular at speedways across the country, especially after Gene Welch brought a four car team out from the USA for a summer tour down under. We never saw Monzas in our showrooms and I doubt whether very many ever made their way to the country as road cars - I cant recall ever seeing one in the wild. Many years ago after following Tim Boyd's advice in Street Rodder Magazine , I bought the MPC Monza to get what he believed to be the best detailed small block available at the time in 1/25th scale. It is still waiting in a box with a special project! As I researched cars for the display in October, I realised that the Monza body was languishing untouched in another box, and it came with IMSA flares so it was time to start another project. It might seem a little crazy but I am keen to get all bodywork and paint completed on these projects as early as possible so that I can use the remaining time to complete the somewhat easier chassis work. As with all such projects it is never as easy as it first looks. The fibreglass Monza bodies for the speedway had fairly vertical sides while the kit had a lot of roll-under to the rocker panels. Plus, the body kit did not quite match the contours visible in my one reference photo so there was a fair bit of trimming to do to get things close ( plus just a smidge of putty!) I tack glued the body kit in place and then worked out what bits needed to be removed to get things right. I then used a woodworking tool called a marking gauge to scribe part way through the inside of the body at the waste line so that I could gently bend the lower body panels outwards to get things looking correct. I have since applied a responsible amount of body filler and we have some serious sanding ahead of us! Cheers Alan
  8. Next up is one I am really excited about. I had never owned one of the MPC Super Stocker series of models so was pleased to hear that the GTO had been re-issued. I had good intentions of buying one but decided to wait as a friend of mine along with our wives were planning to attend the Adelaide Toy Fair in South Australia last June. You can imagine my surprise when the second table I walked up to had not one but two Dick Trickle Mustang kits, complete but bagged, not boxed, on his stall for $50 a piece. If you are thinking that is a bit spendy, consider that the GTO currently on the local hobby shop shelves would have set me back upwards of $65Aus so in any language the Mustangs were a bargain. I love dirt trackers and Dave loves Mustangs so they both came home with us. Every state in Australia had a two or three competitors in Mustangs in the seventies and when you consider how rare ( then ) they were on our streets, they were a big deal to see on a speedway. I have been very impressed with this kit although I did find the rear end assembly a bit fiddly. The weird bit is the fact that the Mustang body has had its sills removed and as a result the bottom of the rollcage hangs out in the breeze - probably something to do with the fact that these were essentially a GM style frame. Two strips of styrene sheet rectified that problem. I also cut the top bars of the cage for now - this lets the rollcage sit higher in the body and will save a lot of work later. As it was the top bar that should have aligned with the window opening ( where you would normally rest your elbow) was a good 3mm lower than it should be. The other problem, if you can call it that, is that the car has a big block Chevy engine. I have no qualms about swapping out the engine for a Ford but I love those over the top headers so I have elected to paint the Chevy engine blue, add some Ford rocker covers and front mounted distributor, and fake it! The neat thing is, apart from the flares and a change of rolling stock, this will nearly be a box stock kit. Once again I used aluminium wire and thin plastic to create the flairs. Like the Torana, this one is going to have a little twist in tis final livery but I will reveal all as it nears completion. Cheers Alan
  9. So while I wait to receive the decals, I have started on several other cars. I will continue to show multiple cars on this one thread but will give them separate posts Under Glass when they are completed. In the eighties, Corvette bodied Super Sedans were very popular right across Australia. I am stating with a glue bombed AMT Corvette - about a 71 I think, maybe earlier. Windscreen pillars have been removed along with the front bumper and roll pan. These cars were among the first to use a fully fabricated tube chassis in Oz but some lo-bucks teams would use the GM style perimeter frame from an HQ-HZ Holden one ton utility. These frames have a passing resemblance to, of all things, a Corvette frame so in the interests of simplicity I completely removed the floor and IRS mounting points of the AMT Corvette frame and began building my roll cage on top of that platform. Initially I also lowered the front edge of the roof down a smidge but on reflection it looked odd so I lifted it back to stock. I also made some wide flares for this car although if I was modelling a car from a few years later these would not have been present - it would have just had radiused wheel arches instead. Aussie speedway cars starting losing their flares around 1981 if I recall correctly but I like them so included them in this build. I wrapped some aluminium craft wire around a wooden dowel - this gives a smooth curve. I then cut off appropriate lengths of the curve and bent the ends in at 90 degrees - these were then inserted though holes drilled in the body and superglue was applied. I adjust the angle of the flares to suit the tyres and then glue small strips of plastic between the wire and the body to establish this distance. Finally, I cut and fit small strips of thin styrene sheet to fill the gaps. Eventually a skim coat of bog blends everything in. In the photo you can see the rear flare filled in while I am still establishing the front one. You can also see the beginning of the frame in the background. In the second mockup photo the frame has dropped away from the body - that fabricated bumper will be snug to the body eventually. Cheers Alan
  10. It's been a while but time for an update. I got the white and red paint on the Torrie, plus the black sill panels. A friend in our model club is very talented in creating decals so he is doing them for me - I will explain the significance of those decals when I get them applied to the car. For the Aussies viewing now, -think MDHT! Narrowing the flares made a huge difference and another friend has just 3D printed a set of wide and wider rims for me. These are an Australian wheel known as an Aunger Hot Wire. Similar yet different to an Appliance wire mag or a European BBS wheel, they were very popular on street machines as well as racecars and up until now, there was only one rare source for them and they needed a lot of work, especially in regards to width. They are the ones you can see in this photo but it will have the #D printed ones next time I post a picture. These will be the finishing touch on the model. Cheers Alan
  11. I mentioned our club's American Graffiti diorama when I posted my 61 Galaxie police car from the famous "ripped out rear-end" scene. At the same time I was also building a '55 Chevy for the rollover scene. It took a lot of freeze framing to get all the research information I needed. Compounding this is the fact that there are three separate cars in the scene. The drag race with Milner's coupe starts off with the movie "star car". The car rolling over is a second car simply bodgied up for its short moment of infamy and the final car is actually a 55 hardtop with pieces of painted timber wedged in place to look like a sedan. It obviously is not the car that is seen rolling over because the front fender, especially the right hand one, is still intact with a working headlight, after supposedly completing a heavy roll over starting on the right hand corner of its nose! I chose to build the thirds car but as if it was a true sedan, not a hardtop. I started with a very sad Revell '56 Chevy post sedan that my brother attempted to convert into an Australian Holden about 50 years ago. The conversion was clearly beyond our combined teenaged skill set and it has languished in a box ever since. It had broken A pillars but amazingly the door sills had never snapped and the chassis and steering was still intact. You can still see the orange diff and fuel tank that would have been very "on trend" in the early seventies! The highly detailed nature of these early Revell kits suited the bill perfectly for this model, as it needed to have opening panels and would be perpetually displayed upside down. I call it my "Doesn't Matter" model because, being displayed upside down and having suffered a rollover, I could overlook flaws that would normally stick out like a sore thumb. Briefly, I cut the ravaged 56 front clip off just in front of the cowl vent and the door hinge mounts, to preserve these details. I then carefully removed the front clip from an abandoned AMT 55 hardtop that I acquired somewhere and joined the two sections. The hood scoop is from a Monogram Early Iron series 40 Ford pickup with the details sanded off. I had an odd scrap of a rear 55 taillight section that I grafted into the LH side and used putty to modify the damaged rh side 56 quarter into a 55. The engine came from the parts box and as the rollover car was a Powerglide, I fabbed up a simple plastic tranny pan to glue straight onto the "four speed"- doesn't matter!. One door is shown damaged in the movie but the doors on the 56 were perfect and I couldn't bring myself to damage one so modified a rough Revell 57 Nomad door instead. The chromies are tatty ones from my parts box that don't even match but, hey, "doesn't matter"- they got damaged in the rollover! I also glued thin plastic around the windshield opening to simulate the flange that the rubber grips onto - I do this a lot on my speedway cars as well as it subtly hints at the body being a real steel car. The final paint was very cheap hardware store black enamel '-"doesn't matter" - which actually looks a lot better in real life than in the photos. Being a movie car I didn't want it too nice anyway. Rather than use heat to damage the rolled over roof, I made a simple base out of packing foam with a depression in it to accommodate the original roof - who knows, I might want to restore the car one day! The car has been displayed twice now and will have its final outing in December at our annual hot rod show. It looks the part and best of all, was made almost entirely of otherwise unloved parts. Definitely a case where the whole is greater than the sum of the parts! Cheers Alan
  12. Had a busy weekend but made some more progress on the Torana. Thanks to everyone who has viewed and commented so far - it is greatly appreciated. It turned out that the Citation hood scoop was a little larger but a little flatter than the A9X scoop but otherwise the same shape. I cut it out of the hood instead of off the hood and then glued it to the grey plastic hood from earlier. When it had dried solid I carved out the plastic underneath to allow clearance for the eventual stack injection. I found what I think is a Camaro chassis (Copyright Revell 1990) which was near perfect fit into the revised Citation body. I trimmed a little front he front and from the wheel arches and then added a pair of styrene strips to the side of the floor. Easy peasy. The Torana has a four link coil sprung rear axle so I grafted in one from a Monogram Chevelle. I also removed the stock fuel tank as per the regulations of the time. I found some front and rear bumpers in my parts box, both Japanese I suspect, and with less than a half hour's work they fitted up fine. Here she is ready for primer and then finally the first mockup in one colour. I am REALLY happy with how it looks but there is still a fair bit of finessing to do before she gets her first coat of white. One thing that is very obvious now is that the front flares in particular are too wide. Luckily, if I take a few mm off the outside edges, it will also open up the arches and give me better clearance on the tyres - win, win! Cheers Alan
  13. Claude, your annual trip to the salt is always worth waiting for! This creation, apart from being totally stunning, takes your level of creativity to new heights! I will have a salt racer myself to post shortly but it pales in comparison to this one! Cheers Alan
  14. Thanks Trevor! Got a lot of work done last night and tonight so have some more photos of the hatch area coming together. I started off by making a tape pattern off the original kit and transferring it to a piece of flat styrene. I then glued strips of Evergreen to bridge the gap between the roof and the trunk. I used my previous cardboard templates and this ensured that I was achieving the correct proportions before I committed to gluing the hatch in place. I then drilled five holes in the window area of the hatch and used scissors and a sharp X -acto to cut out the window opening. I filed the trailing edge to a taper to assist with blending it in with the Citation trunk lid. Two small taps of plastic were glued under the top of the hatch opening to give the top edge of the hatch something to glue to. I carved away a heap of excess plastic from the old trunk lid as well - just in case! I glued the new hatch in place and left it to dry overnight. In the morning I realised that the profile was too high so I sliced around the edge of the white plastic and dropped the whole sandwich down flush - worked a treat. I then cut and glued strips of plastic either side of the hatch to start forming up this area of the body. One big advantage doing to this way is that I automatically create deep panel lines. I am rubbish when it comes to scribing panel lines so this was a bonus! This was all superglued up convincingly and allowed to dry. Following some sanding to get the C pillars and quarter panels blended in, I used a cardboard template to duplicate the A9X rear spoiler in styrene and glued it to the body. It will need a lot more work tomorrow but for now, I am very happy with what I see - I got me a Torana! Cheers Alan
  15. Great to see some Aussies following along! And a Canadian - we are really going international here! Of course, being a speedway car, "near enough" accuracy is more than good enough but from the way I have progressed so far, it wouldn't be impossible to do a showroom stock conversion, it would just take a lot more time. Thanks Richard, it is always interesting to hear about the inside of the toy and model industry. I have been very distracted by other modelling projects lately but got some work done on the Torana last week. To join the copy of the resin Torana front clip onto the Citation fenders I had to remove the cowl /plenum chamber area first to allow the front fenders to be pulled inwards as the Torana is about 3mm narrower. This meant that the roof had to be removed as well. Always scary when only a bit of plastic at the rear is holding it all together. I added some hidden pins to strengthen up the joint. Anyhow, it all worked fine and I added some more bog to blend in the front clip to the front flares. Of course, having narrowed the front I now needed to narrow the rear as the car would be tapered otherwise. I cheated by simply cutting down the already partly cut trunk line on the right hand side and removing 3mm, A fussy modeller would have removed 1.5mm from each side but for this car it really didn't matter and one cut is stronger to re-join that two! Next we needed a hood. I found a grey plastic AMT hood of unknown origin in the parts box that was close enough. I took a masking tape pattern off the Cavalier Torana hood and cut it out before applying it to the AMT hood. I then cut and filed the hood until it was a neat fit. While I was at it, I cut a strip of flat styrene for the new cowl section. This is purely structural at this stage - I will shape it later. I also glued another parts box refugee firewall in place to stiffen things up. The Citation roof has a lot of similarities to the Torana design but annoyingly just enough differences that I couldn't use it as is. The grooved B pillars had to be slanted forward slightly more and the rake on the A pillars had to be adjusted as well. I used cardboard templates taken off the Cavalier Torana to check I was travelling in the right direction! I also filed off the windshield mouldings at the front and will replace this with a glass flange later. The next step will be to construct the rear hatchback section. Once that is done we are ready for final bog and primer! Thanks for watching Cheers Alan
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