Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

alan barton

Members
  • Content Count

    591
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by alan barton

  1. There's one big one for me and it is very specific to my fullscale interests as well as my modelling interests. Vertical windshields on 1928 to 1936 roadsters, roadster pickups and phaetons, irrespective of manufacture. Guys, please, check your Google images. Pretty much all manufacturers of soft tops by 1928 were gently laying their windshields back. It is an important part of the beginning of streamlined design. Go through any contest annual and there seems to be oodles of roadsters with windshields that look like farm gates. One of my favourite models, the AMT 29 roadster, is one of the biggest victims here, probably because of the way AMT moulded the windshield to the cowl trim. It only takes a little effort however, to just lean it back a couple of degrees. You're welcome! Cheers Alan
  2. I'll probably have to get that one of it makes its way to Australia! Thanks for the review, Tim - how similar is it to the Revell 1/16th scale car - the same generation of FED or a later one? Cheers Alan
  3. I remember the how - to articles on this awesome model very clearly, Tim. It was just as I was getting back into model building after the seemingly compulsory break to get a real car, look for girls, go to university etc. It is a beautiful time capsule of modelling techniques and styles of the time and yet it would be perfectly comfortable sitting on any NNL table today. Lots of goodness to view here - the cleanly detailed dash with realistic texture, the precise red and blue fittings (I'm guessing clear paint but wow, talk about neat!) the sharp separation between the black firewall and the gold body, not to mention the effort involved in opening and hinging the very fragile chopped doors, and, thank goodness, you didn't stick those awful chromed louvres on the front fenders - definitely a case of less is more right there! Cheers Alan
  4. I have used resin copies of the Rat Roaster firewall on AMT bodies in the recent past and they just need the lightest of trimming around the top edge to give an accurate fit to the AMT cowl and allow the hood to fit. I also take the time to thin out the edges of the very chunky AMT hood - otherwise you have to do a lot more trimming! Cheers Alan
  5. alan barton

    The Kookie Kar

    magicmustang, if you are chasing accuracy and it looks like you are, I would seriously consider using either an AMT 29 Model A or Revell 30 Model A frame. The original car used a modified Model A frame and from the HAMB photos the centre of it has stayed basically stock. You will need to shorten the rear and Z the rear crossmember at the same time, add the suicide front spring cross,member and perch and you are done. I believe this approach would probably be both quicker and more accurate, assuming of course that you have a Model A frame available. Cheers Alan
  6. Wow, the things we do to achieve perfection! I've done that chain drilling thing before and know how challenging it can be - your results look spectacular! Not to mention handcarving those side pieces and getting them all so perfect. This thread will be my blueprint to bring my version home! Cheers Alan
  7. This is very cool, Roger, rat rod proportions without the rat rod detritus everywhere. Like everyone else, I am very impressed with how cleanly you opened the grills and how sharp the bodywork is on your chop top. It's a neat truck. Cheers Alan
  8. I just wanta get in and drive! What a magnificent exercise in restraint. I am very impressed by your patience in being able to graft those louvred panels into your hood and not damage them in the sanding process - that is an amazing feat in it's own right! Cheers Alan
  9. Luca, that is an amazing build of an old favourite! I don't think i have ever seen such a cool conversion on this model. Were you inspired by Ed Iskendarian's T roadster? It seems to share a lot of similar proportions and details even if it isn't an exact replica. I would be very proud to have this one on my shelf! Cheers Alan
  10. Surely one of the most beautifully and sensitively detailed 32s we've ever seen on these pages. The yellow wheels, the timber floor, the terrific grille detail, wow, I love it! Surely a Rodder's Journal cover car! Cheers Alan
  11. Great to see all four together. I still have the Excalibur to build before I can complete my set. Well done! Cheers Alan
  12. I usually cringe at the thought of racing movies as they usually do it so badly (can you say "Days of Thunder?") But my wife and I saw it with my Ford mad mate and his wife and we all agreed that it was a good movie. Like any car movie you can pick holes in it but for once, they are teeny weeny holes that really don't ruin the effect. That's eight thumbs up from Australia. By the way, Tom, bummer about Mr Rogers! Hee hee hee! Cheers Alan
  13. Here's a before and after shot. One I did as a slammer many years ago, alongside a snap bomb (well, it couldn't be a glue bomb, could it?). A valuable lesson to be learnt here, don't display your models at an open air car show in the Australian summer .....sigh. It's a nice tight body shell. it has different hood louvers to the AMT kits and the running boards fit pretty nice, not included in the AMTs. I picked up the cheap Paddy Wagon as I figured it would be quicker to prep and paint than try to repair the sunken roof on my first one. A set of AMT headlights would help it out as well. Does anyone know the story of how the three MPC snap kits (40 coupe, Willys panel and 50 Merc) got away with being such obvious knock-offs of the AMT kits? Or did they change just enough to dodge lawsuits? Cheers Alan
  14. Hi Bernard, back again! I am notoriously unreliable for getting things done BUT I want to send you a vacformed tonneau cover for your triple nickel. I don't have any lying around at the moment but I do still have the mould. I am currently travelling a lot for work but in the next few weeks I will be home so I will get the vacformer down from its shelf and pop out a few new copies. I need a few myself! This will be just the finishing touch you need for your car. I have included a shot of my Tony Nancy 22jr so that you can see what it looks like. Cheers Alan
  15. I like this one a lot, Bernard! The chassis details are perfect and the colour scheme fits the era beautifully.I am very familiar with this type of car as many years ago I built a replica of the famed Tony Nancy 22Jr roadster, the tube framed, Nailhead powered, second generation car, as distinct from the Deuce framed flathead version. There are a lot of similarities between your chassis and mine, especially in the roll cage construction. The way I got around the tonneau cover issue was to blank off the interior opening of a spare body with a piece of plastic taped tightly in place. I then filled it with plaster of paris. When it was nice and dry, I removed the plastic tarp and used the plaster filled body as a mould for a vacformed piece. It turned out a treat and literally clicks in place. One day when I run out of AMT roadster bodies I will dig the plaster out and use it but in the meantime it is handy if I need to make more. Thanks for sharing this beauty with us all. Cheers Alan
  16. Two great reasons right there! I did the Sedan Delivery about 200 years ago and used an AMT 32 gas tank - I at the time I thought it looked OK. The fact that the inside edge of the rear fenders is a bit abbreviated means that they require a bit of work first. If you can get a look at any other AMT, Revell or Monogram Deuce models, maybe a friend has one, you would get a clear idea of what is required to fix the old MPC model. Another thought, if you could get hold of some high density plastic foam or a tight grained wood like jelutong, it would be a relatively straight forward operation to carve a new tank. You could simply use balsa but I would recommend a generous coat of automotive body putty over the whole unit that you could sand down to size and contour. Otherwise you will send forever trying to seal and smooth the very open grain inherent with balsa. Hope that helps Alan
  17. Excellent! I have been following your diorama for a long time - I must have missed a few pages! I will go and check it out now. What impresses me about your whole diorama is that you have hit a happy medium between surgically immaculate and completely trashed, the two ends of the scale that most people seem to achieve when doing a workshop. Yours reminds of any of a thousand workshops out there where the job is to get things done efficiently without going all Hollywood. I like it a lot! Cheers Alan
  18. Wow, Landman, is that English Wheel I see in the background made from a small G clamp? If so, kudos, sir, what a beautifully simple idea! Also, where do you get the guy with the wrench in his hand. I have a large collection of figures but have never seen this one before. He has a very natural pose. Cheers Alan
  19. Glad to be of help, Mattias and Craig. I'm sure that everyone on this forum has had at least one "Now why didn't I think of that ?" moment while browsing these posts. Happy to be the guy providing the inspiration for once! Taking it a step further ( and I haven't yet) I guess you could graft the 36 door tops to the 34 cabriolet cowl top and with a bit of filling and sanding you would get the correct door shape plus a positive fit for the hood. So many ideas, so little time! Cheers Alan
  20. They made it! When you think that these parts were made in Mt Clements Michigan, were then shipped to Sydney on the East coast of Australia, then trucked to Perth on the West Coast of Australia, where I bought the kit from K Mart as a 14 year old, then moved to the remote mining town of Paraburdoo for two years, approximately a 2000 mile return trip and then posted them to Britain a few weeks ago - these grilles have seen more of the world than some of us modellers! Unfortunately for David, back in my teen years, I thought the inner ends of the grilles could be cut off and turned into hod scoops! Never did finish that project and I am convinced I still have the ends somewhere but they haven't turned up yet. I will keep looking! As they are, they would have stayed in my stash until I clocked off so I am pleased that they are finally going on a Pontiac. Good luck with your project David, I hope the grilles will help you reach your goals. Cheers Alan
  21. Jeff, I believe this model was originally the MPC 32 Switchers kit, regardless of what box art logos may have come with it now. When I built my version about 35 years ago I added the top of a AMT 32 roadster fuel tank. I typically use the cover of a Wilkinson Sword disposable razor to make the bottom of the fuel tank - have a look at the supermarket next time you are shopping and see if there is something close ( I have had my little stash for at least 30 years! Otherwise, hit up a local modeller who has channelled a Monogram, AMT or Revell Deuce because he will have a spare tank somewhere! You will still have a bit of work ahead of you because MPC chopped off the inner edge of the rear fenders rather crudely which means the gap between the inner surfaces is somewhat wider than stock! Hope that helps Cheers Alan
  22. I'll have to check that when I get home. Didn't strike me as unworkable at the time. Cheers Alan
  23. But getting back to Stuarts roadster, if that thing was any tougher it would rust! This is very inspirational because I have an unbuilt Phantom Vicky in the stash as well as a built one on the shelf so I could see producing a model inspired by yours and then swapping the stock cowl and windshield back onto the donor Vicky for a totally different look. Your wheel and tyre selection is to die for - man, that is an evil looking roadster. This is a look you would normally associate with a 3 window but it just flat works for me. Thanks for sharing! Cheers Alan
  24. Wow, I thought it was just me!!! How many times does that happen when you bring the fenders and body of a pre-48 together? AMT 40 fords are shocker for it. My Revell 37 Delivery - I never did get the hood , fenders and cowl to match up just right but it never showed up while I was test fitting! I just finished a rough old AMT 32 roadster that I did as a 3 window coupe based on a Tim Boyd article in Street Rodder magazine and I suffered from the same gap you got here. Just drives you crazy! I am currently close to finishing a long term project in the form of a tribute build of the Buttera 29 roadster, the white one. Even with everything pinned, I keep seeing the gaps changing. Yep, I feel your pain and I guess most other hot rod modellers do as well. Cheers Alan
×
×
  • Create New...