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    Homer Glen, IL
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    Jim S.

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  1. Take a metal rod or dowel the same diameter as the ducts. Wrap small gage wire around it. Then wrap Teflon tape around the wire. Coat it with diluted white glue and paint. Cut to length. There's a tutorial on Italianhorses.net on how to do this.
  2. I'm probably chiming in too late. I use Duplicolor Scratch and Fix pens. They can be thinned with their lacquer and airbrushed with no issues. I was able to pick up a few of the old pens on clearance when they went to the new larger style pens. Only problem now is that they are $15 a piece. Now I would only buy one if I was painting a 1/16 scale body.
  3. I use craft acrylics all the time for auto interiors, gundams, etc. The cost for a 8 oz. bottle of black is cheap and used a lot for chassis. I thin them 50/50 with blue washer solvent for the car and airbrush with a Paasche single action with a #3 tip.. Use only the BLUE SOLVENT!!! You can use Delta Ceramcoat Satin Polyurethane to give it a sheen. You can also use Liquitex as stated before for thinning or adding gloss or satin. The craft paints now are offered in a multi-surface formula. Once the are completely dried they can be gloss coated with Future, Testors Gloss, or Tamiya Gloss. You can thin down the Delta Satin with a 50/50 water mix and airbrush it on also.
  4. I bought one of these from Amazon. The unit is exactly as you have pictured. It works perfect for normal sized kits. I line the bottom of mine with "pig mat" to catch any solvents or paint drips. The sides are covered with Glad press and seal plastic wrap. This allows me to keep the dust down to a minimum. The unit is easy to take a part and clean as well. Everything unscrews and the fan is a brushless fan so it doesn't risk fire. If you get this you'll enjoy it. My large homemade booth is still used in the garage and is used primarily for battleship painting so this is a dream as far as a compact size. Check out TCP Global. You can find all kinds of airbrush material there. Amazon got this for me through their company
  5. I have a bottle of Tamiya clear red and clear blue and just wanted to know if these should be thinned the same way as regular paint to airbrush? Also, I have a bottle of Testors Acryl clear flat and gloss tjat I would like to airbrush as well. A friend of mine used these and said they had a bluish tint when he sprayed them on. Is this normal? I have the correct Acryl thinner to use, but just not to sure on the mixing. Should I mix it like the paint or make it thinner? Thanks for the help.
  6. They were $6.99 at the parts store, but I did see them at Hobo for $2.99 but who knows how long they've been sitting. I've talked to other people outside the forum and haven't heard anything positive. I think I'll stick with regular paints especially due to the cost difference.
  7. Just wondering if anyone out there has used Duplicolor Scratch and Fix for airbrushing? They are enamel based paints and come in 1/2 oz bottles. I've been wanting to try them since they come in a variety of colors.
  8. Very nice. I'm building my first bike now. It's Tamiya's 1/12 scale 900s Ducati. Does anyone know or have suggestions on how to make the exhaust? The seam lines go right down the middle of the mufflers so you can imagine the problem with seam lines on chrome where its totaly visible. Would even consider aftermarket pipes, but I'm not familiar with bikes yet.
  9. The best stuff I've found so far is called Dawn Power Disolver. it comes ina spray bottle, but is like a liquid gel when poured out. You need about 3 bottles and a plastic tray to cover a 1/24 scale body. 3 days and the paint and primer rinse off. I saw it used on the workbench forum on a Supra build currently going on. Won't burn the plastic and removes paint from the clear plastic as well. Also I use straight Fantastik to remove chrome plating. This doesn't damage the plastic as well.
  10. I was wondering if anyone knows if you can hook up a wet/dry vac to your paint booth instead of buying an exhaust fan and the duct work. I've heard pros and cons in using a bathroom exhaust fan. I built a good sized boothe amd just need to vent it out. Thanks.
  11. John. Awseome build. I have one question though. How do you keep a ridge line from forming when different colors? I've had a lot of problems when taking off the masking and finding a ridge of paint. I've backed off on the pressure and paint and changed the angle away from the line, but nothing helps. Thanks.
  12. I have to agree with VW Dave. Drop a couple of copper BB's into the jar and start shaking. They stir up just like the rattle cans. Just make sure if you are transfering the paint to an airbrush, you strain the paint to remove the BB's so they do not clog the paint tube or cup. You can also go to hobbico.com. They sell mainly RC plane parts, but they have a battery and AC operated paint shakers. They will hold Model Master, Floquil, and small Testor paint bottles with an adjustable strap.
  13. Nice looking build. Looking at your chrome parts I believe there are some old Cadillac Station Wagon parts say to an Echto 1?
  14. This is an awsome build. For a long time I've wanted to get a model to look decent and the topics covered so far have answered a lot of questions for me. Most of the people at the LHS are advanced builders and the advice they give is good, but again advanced. Regarding the Future polish. It's nice to see it actually used. I have one question though. I have a sci fi model (AMT biker scout figure) that will require the same kind of filing and filling as the engine halves. I would like to know if the future will work with flat paints as well as it does for gloss? I figured I could coat the figures seams with future (after prepping) and then paint the flat black. Any advice would be appreciated. Again, thanks for a great build.
  15. Going to pick it up next weekend. Thanks for the feedback.
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