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krassandbernie

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About krassandbernie

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    MCM Friend

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  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25th

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  • Location
    PA
  • Full Name
    Ed Fluck, Jr.

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  1. Pretty cool! I am 99% sure that the Revell hood does not need the sides sanded. I know that if you were to sand the back side of the hood until it drops into the MPC body ('68-'72 bodies anyway) that the shape of the front of the hood is still a hair off; and there's slightly more hood gap on the sides than what one would prefer. If you sand the front of the hood (and not the back) it will basically allow the hood to sit a hair further forward closing up the hood gap with the body on the sides. But my main concern here still is that by shortening the front of the hood you are screwing with the surface contour; and possibly end up with the hood sitting higher than the body at the front due to the contour of the hood. I will likely end up practicing with a couple of Revell hoods to see which works out better (sanding the front, or sanding the rear.....and having to add a thin strip down the sides of the hood then). btw, I cast the rally wheels from the MPC kits without the center caps. I also offer a deep dish rear version (that was mastered by a friend of mine)..........which to me, looks more like an 8" wheel.
  2. I have a soft spot for the MPC Vette kits. I see that you incorporated a few of the newer Revell parts into it like the rocker trim and Motion Performance hood. I plan on doing the same (but use the L88 hood on an old MPC '69 resto project); and found that the Revell hood appears to fit nearly perfect if you sand the front (or back edge) down a smidge. But, I have not tried it yet due to time. If you sand the front of the hood to make it fit the MPC body it will also essentially make the front of the hood slightly wider taking up the minor hood gap that is otherwise present. But, I am not sure it the contour of the hood will match the MPC body where the front of the hood meets up. Do you recall if you sanded the front or the back of the Revell hood to make it fit the MPC body; and did you note an fitment issues?
  3. That is a vast improvement! I had eye balled that very same 'fix' myself; but kept thinking that there simply wasn't enough roof thickness above the drip rail molding to get away with it......and it would be compromised........leading to another issue. But, your remedy seems to have worked out quite well; and is the most corrected/accurate looking one that I've seen to date!
  4. It is good that the roof line doesn't bother you like it does me........seriously. Something about it bugged me for years until I finally put my finger on it. Once I saw it I could not un-see it. It's night and day to me looking at the first photo I posted of the yellow Revell Camaro and the 1:1 green Camaro. I studied each of the model bodies I posted above; and compared them to each other and 1:1 pics; and took measurements. Simply rounding off the rear corner of the drip rail molding will not correct the overall 'die cast' lines of this roof; but it might improve it a little bit. There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that the Revell body's roof is slightly chopped at the front windshield pillars and the drip rail is perfectly flat where there should be a graceful curve. Revell is notorious for screwing up the roof line on almost every body they've come out with for the past 20 years. They also suffer from being too 'computer generated' and squared off where contours and lines should be more graceful. It is just something I can not look past. Having done my own master work for over 15 years now (for my resin business) has made me more aware of body proportions and more anal I suppose. When you have to pretty much scratch build an entire body you tend to make sure you have all of your proportions nailed down since one are of the body will throw off another. We all take something different or personal from the hobby; and some things bother one person and not the other......and that is perfectly fine too.
  5. I'd be highly impressed if you are able to remedy this roof line on the Revell Camaro body! That first comparison photo I posted with the built yellow Revell Camaro really shows just how awful the roof line (or more accurately, the drip rail molding/window opening) really is. I don't see you nailing it without raising the windshield pillars a hair. I have confidence you will make an improvement in the roof line at the very least based on what I've seen of your work so far. You seem to tackle things in a similar manner (or thought process) to my own.
  6. I really dig (and appreciate) the work you've put into this conversion so far! You really have to be in-love with a subject matter to labor like this. I've been there myself with numerous projects! Two things have always bothered me about the Revell '69 Camaro; and kept me from building one despite an otherwise superb kit. The roof is totally screwed up........flat across the top of the door windows (as far as the drip rail line is concerned), and even slightly chopped at the windshield pillars. The second issue is that the front end appears a hair too long over all......from certain angles. Yet, it doesn't seem to be as noticeable once built. Here are some comparison photos of a 1:1 '69 Camaro and the Revell kit; as well as the Revell '68 Firebird and AMT '68 Camaro. I know that angle of the photo is off for the '68 Firebird; but you can see that the roof is closer on the '68 Firebird (yet not tall enough over all), and the general shape of the AMT '68 Camaro roof is closer (from the side profile only). If you could figure out a way to put the graceful contour of the 1:1 roof lines back into Revell's '69 Camaro it would be a night and day transition! Revell's large scale Camaro kit (which I read the 1/25th scale kit was based on) did not suffer these maladies!
  7. You know guys, I am still offering a reworked Revell Model A coupe body in resin.......with a much more aesthetically pleasing roof insert and firewall. I just figured I would pop in and let you know there was an alternative to waiting for the Chinese to regroup and bang out the second release.
  8. Excellent job! This is one of the nicest examples of Scott's Fairmont I've seen yet! For anyone thinking of buying one of these PLEASE go directly to Futurattraction's web site (http://futurattraction.com/index.html). I am no longer casting this body for Scott (or the follow-up variation Scott made of this body with larger rear wheel wells); especially since it was pirated (stolen) by another resin caster and being sold on eBay as well as said resin caster's own web site. I warn you because it is not the same quality body that Scott provides you...........and just plain wrong. Scott invested countless hours (hundreds of hours in fact over many years) and dollars to make a Fairmont body available to the public. He deserves to recoup some of his investment; not have it stolen by someone who couldn't keep their hands off what didn't belong to them.
  9. I just ordered (and received) the '68 Plymouth Road Runner and GTX grilles today; and am highly impressed with them! I have ordered some 3D printed parts from Shapeways over the past couple of years; but wasn't expecting these grilles to be quite this nice! Thank you! My only 'gripe' is that it is going to take a fair amount of work to attempt to get the grilles (more appropriately, the headlights) to fit a Johan '69 Road Runner body properly. I would much rather back date a Johan '69 Road Runner to a '68 then work with that pile of BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH AMT/Ertl came out with. If you were to modify these '68 grilles to fit the Johan body I would surely order them! Ed
  10. Here's the one I still offer............will work with both the '63 and '64 Galaxie kits.
  11. If you were to punch my name or the business name into a Google or Bing search you'd find my contact info all over the place! LOL! It's at the top of my Fotki albums, should be in my business card logo signature at the bottom of many of my posts in certain forums; and more recently through the business page on Facebook. Shoot me a line if there's anything I can help you out with! Ed lowcab36@epix.net
  12. Vince got these from me; but I no longer offer the W-30 Olds hood. It was one I had laying around from years ago that I gave him.
  13. No problem on the info! Keep in mind (in case you didn't catch what was said earlier) Dave is no longer casting or running the resin business..........Mike from Wings, Wheels, and Waves out of Massillon, Ohio has taken over the resin business from Dave. I no longer have a web site; but you can see what I have to offer or what I am up to by going to my business page on Facebook. You can also send me a pm for the link to my Fotki albums where you can see more photos of my work.
  14. I ordered a '57 Nomad from Mike not too long ago rather than mastering one myself to build; and he was very prompt with my order. The quality of his castings are very high............I was very pleased; considering the amount of time he has actually been casting (something like 10 weeks he said). I have been doing this for over 15 years; and probably scrutinize over the quality of castings more than the average modeler. The only issue I had was something that was not really his fault; and that was due to how Dave made the body mold; which reflected in the castings as the mold got older. Basically, the body 'grew' in length front and rear by 1/16" overall due to the mold being made too thin and flexing from the hydraulic pressure of the resin as the mold became weaker over time. This altered the outside dimensions of the body. As soon as I test fit the donor kit hood I knew what had happened........having had this happen myself in the past; which prompted me to change how I design my molds. Since explaining to Mike what caused this over the phone he said he'd be willing to replace the body as soon as he makes a new mold. If his mold making abilities match up to his casting efforts you will all be in good hands when ordering from him!
  15. Where did you get the wheels for the Moray and Manta Ray builds? It looks like you cast your own copies. I take it you started with the basic wheel and perhaps modified it to make a deeper version? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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