The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
Right you are, Mark - my mistake. I had forgotten about the bolt-on clip on the earlier Novas. Here's a couple of pics that illustrate it. One where someone has put a straight axle setup on the stock rails (and you can see the bolted connection at the firewall) and another where someone has removed the framerails and bolted on a dolly arrangement. These show pretty clearly where the aftermarket front end kits bolt on.
The lower rails are attached to the subframe stubs, where you cut off the stock subframe and weld plates over the ends. The upper supports bolt to the firewall but are just supports - the load is carried through the subframe rails.
The AMT '66 Nova chassis is an excellent swap for the old Rat Packer. Here's a couple of pics of a project I've had going on for way too long. I chopped off the front clip and added plastic rails as was so commonly done back then with commercially available kits.
As is usually the case, I paid a bunch for it, and by the time I get around to doing anything with it, the kit will have been reissued. I used to tell people, if there's an OOP kit you want reissued, just let me know and I'll buy an old on on eBay to big bucks, and the original will get reissued within months!
It's just the same as this one on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/MPC-1-25-SCALE-1978-PLYMOUTH-VOLARE-DEALER-PROMO-STARLITE-BLUE/111960297007?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35624%26meid%3D914563154a5243118f1bcee11d5223ee%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D361522137496
Interesting discussion. I've got a Volare promo that I've been saving for years. I hope a new (or repopped) kit sees the light of day so I don't have to keep hoarding my promo (and so I don't have to deal with its dark blue plastic). One of the obstacles to consider on these, if you are building one stock, is the front suspension. Chrysler used a transverse torsion bar front end on these cars, as opposed to the longitudinal torsion bars you find on almost all Mopars before these came along. They were actually used as a street rod front end swap before rodders discovered all the benefits of the Mustang II front end. I'll be interested in seeing if MPC actually replicates the front suspension or just uses the same chassis as on the earlier A-body kits. I owned a '79 Aspen back in the early '90s and it was really a pretty decent transportation tool, if slow with the 225-inch six. I bought it with the notion of swapping K-members and putting a 440 in it, but I got bitten by the Mustang bug around that time and that was the end of what was only my second ever Mopar (the first being a '64 Barracuda).
CA glue (cyanoacrylate) is another term for "superglue". I use the gel type since it's easier to control. What you don't want is to soak the belt, because that will make it stiff and hard to work with. You just want a very minimal amount of the glue - less than a small drop dabbed on the teeth - enough to keep the teeth attached. Don't get frustrated if your first belt doesn't turn out - learn from that one and try again. Words that scratchbuilders learn to live by.
It's not too difficult to make your own, and it costs virtually nothing. I use electrical tape, and I tape a piece two-inches or so in length and as wide as needed for the blower belt, down on my workmat, sticky side up. I stretch some sprue so it's a good thickness for the belt teeth, and lay it across the tape, cutting it close to the edge of the tape. Repeat until you have all your teeth added, and then trim them to the edge of the tape with a razor blade. Before trimming, push them down to the tape firmly so they'll stay stuck in place. Once they are all added and trimmed to fit, I very lightly dab with some CA glue to hold them in place. This step is critical, because if you use too much CA it will make the belt stiff, and you don't want that. Once the CA dries, shoot the tooth side with some semi-gloss or flat black and you're ready to go.
Not to get nitpicky, but what you are replicating there are not the actual parachute shroud lines, but the fireproof cover that's required to cover them (and also the chute itself). You can see in the photo at the beginning of the thread how the covers snap over the shroud lines and when the chute(s) deploy, the lines pop free of the covers, which are anchored at the chute. These covers are pretty smooth in texture so using material with a fabric texture to replicate them isn't really necessary......they're more like a really heavy tightly-woven cloth-type material.
No, they're aluminum, which is a real bonus, because, as you know, nothing looks more like an aluminum wheel than an aluminum wheel. Another cool thing they have is separate rear beadlocks in different colors. Not only do they look right but they also serve to cover up any sawmarks from "un-deepening" the wheels.
Here's another shot of my first order from Fast Eddies - you can see the separate beadlocks.
Here's a selection of the Pro Track wheels, mounted with various kit tires. They come with foam slot car tires, which must be removed, and the rears are very deep dish and need to be modified. No biggie on that - a minute with a razor saw does the trick.