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JayC

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About JayC

  • Rank
    MCM Friend
  • Birthday 07/30/1983

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build
    1/350

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.youtube.com/user/Syxx423

Profile Information

  • Location
    MI
  1. I finally got the thing apart today. I got the axle removed so it'll be easier to work on now. However, when trying to drill it the bit just slides around. I can't get it to grab. I got to thinking, since I have the axle out now would it be possible to solder it? I have a couple soldering kits laying around. If not, since the axle is out now maybe JB Weld will work better now that I can see what I'm doing.
  2. That's what I was thinking, too. I don't want it to look out of sorts with a shaved axle piece. The pieces do go together ok. My big fear is, if I can find a drill bit small enough, the axle breaking and the whole thing getting ruined. Drilling a hole to pin it up is really the only way. It's far too tight to get anything in there. Is diecast metal easy to drill? I've never done it before.
  3. The wire I have is rather stiff. The reason I mentioned it is because it looks like it would be the right size to pin up the axle. I'm afraid if I were to start drilling the axle with a 1/16 drill bit I might break it. It would be kind of a tight fit. The break isn't a clean, straight break either. Would it be advisable to take a Dremel, and grind the edges down so they are flat?
  4. The repair won't really be visibile. The break is right behind the grill near the edge of the chassis. I'm not against bracing it up like Jantrix says. The only problem is everything is so tight I don't think I could get anything in there. I'm kind of liking the pin idea as I think I could do something with that. I was wondering, I have some black 20 ga. wire layin around, would that be ok to use to pin up the axle? It looks like it would be the right size.
  5. Thanks for the replies. Sorry for not including more photos. I've got more. The camera didn't wanna focus right on the axle piece so I had to throw a little cloth to help it focus where I wanted it. I hope you can make out the break on the pictures. The frontal shot shows how the axle sags when in place. The area on both sides of the break is so small I'm not sure how I could get something like an aluminum rod in there. It would sure help if I could get the thing taken apart, but I have no idea how to do it. There was a little overflow of the JB Weld onto paint, but the surface on each side of the break was clear of paint. You hit the nail on the head. The break is such a small area, but has to hold a lot of weight. When I got this thing, I was shocked at how much it weighed. I never knew a Precision weighed so much, since these two were the first. The other is a 2N, so they are nearly identical. I think the main issue is that such a small area is holding so much weight. I don't know how well the photos actually show it, but the break isn't a clean, half & half break, either. I think that makes it even worse. I have a Dremel. Would it be worthwhile to try and grind a larger surface area out of each side?
  6. Back in June I got two Ertl Precision diecast tractors at an auction. One is a Ford 9N. The 9N has a broken front axle. I know it's not a car, but it still has four wheels and an engine. I was wondering if anyone knows of anyway to fix it? I've tried epoxy and JB Weld. I have not had any luck with either. Does anyone have any out-of-the-box suggestions? When the axle is in place, you can't really see the break, so any suggestions would be welcome. Here's a couple photos. One shows the break and the other how it's suppose to look.
  7. That paint job looks awesome!
  8. That TA body looks great! I really like the color!
  9. Thanks, Spyder! That's what I was looking for. Did you paint the engine or is that box stock? I'm thinking of getting this car to gift it and am trying to see what it entails.
  10. I was wondering if anyone had this kit and could post a few pictures (uncompleted and completed if possible)? I'm wondering what people's thoughts on it are as well.
  11. JayC

    AIR COMPRESSORS

    lol Sounds like you got the same one I do. I haven't used it much, but when I first turned it on I was shocked. I wanted a small portable one that could be used more than just models. I don't know if I will use it for models now that I know how loud it is! It is louder than the 30 gal. Craftsman out in the garage! I'm almost tempted just to use that (it's actually my brother's). I don't know if all C-H air compressors are that loud. I would hope not. You didn't have to have it on for 30 minutes. The instructions on mine said it only needed 5 minutes for break in. I left it in the garage while I ran it. After 5 minutes my ears were ringing! Definitely keep it at a distance when using it! The little air compressor will fill up to 100 PSI if you leave it run and then shut off. When the PSI gets low enough it will start up again. It takes a couple minutes to get to 100 PSI. One gallon sure doesn't go far, though. I was actually surprised how quick it emptied. I was used to the 30 gallon Craftsman. It's not too bad when using the airbrush, though.
  12. A 13-year old did those? Wow! Those cars are amazing! He's definitely got a bright future in this hobby.
  13. That Camaro looks great! The color is a great choice.
  14. JayC

    New forum "skins"

    I have to say, the more I use the Comfy theme the more I like it. The colors aren't an assault on the eyes like the forum default. Comfy just gives the forum that warm, inviting feeling.
  15. JayC

    New forum "skins"

    Right now I am using the Comfy theme. I like it the best so far. Some of the others were ok, but they were "narrower" than other themes. I didn't like that. I like it when it goes across the whole screen.
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