wayneman
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Posts posted by wayneman
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Thanks. This is just the info I was hoping for. I am planning on giving it another go as soon as I have this mess off the plastic. I appreciate the help!
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The constant effort to improve my projects is once more causing me some frustration! I'm working on a Firebird and wanted a good custom paint job that would "pop". I sprayed Testers primer, let it dry for several days and sprayed fingernail polish on the side panels. My intent was to then mask those areas and spray red. I hoped that when I removed the masking the Orange would look Sharp and I would then paint the roof, hood, and trunk a metallic navy blue that would I would let fade in.
That's really more details than my question requires but I am hoping for a lot of help. Is there some sort of hardener or accelerator in nail polish? I thinned it like other enamals and it kept acting like it needed more.
Can I spray the stuff without primer? I have not had good luck with this Testers primer at all. It pitted and created a surface that would have made this trip to the purple pond necessary no matter how good the polish went on. I thought I had inspected it well but the flaws were not obvious until the paint on.
Any help is appreciated. I thought this was going to be great (using polish) because I don't have a local hobby shop and hate to pay shipping when I need a little paint.
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Thanks. That helps. I looked at all sorts of sites I hit on a search, but they just didn't have it.
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I have been trying to figure out how to scratch build some kits into short track and flat track "friday night racers". I got some good info through another thread about thickness for sheet styrene and rollbars; but I need to find where I can buy racing tires for dirt track and asphalt for 1/24 scale. I hate to buy two kits (one NASCAR) and another to build one model. Any ideas?
It would be really good if I could find the styrene and racing tires at the same place so I could save on shipping. All my Google attempts have failed. Thanks in advance.
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I am absolutely not trying to steal the thread but had the same questions until reading this. I do have one additional question and that is in reference to tires. I am interested in building cars like you would find at your local track on Saturday night. Where can I find the NASCAR style tires (dirt or asphault). It would be great if there is a site that I could purchase the tires and styrene all at one time.
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This is great stuff. Thanks!
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Hadn't thought of that. Thanks. That post saved some frustration, which I really need. I tried the cloth "look" on the seats and made a poor choice. The wood turned out good, but the whole thing is in the green bath and I am going to start over. I had a really good paint job on the body and goofed it up trying to put a stripe on it. it is a 1970 Camero and I hope the green stuff doesn't destroy the putty and sanding I had to do on the nose. It really didn't want to fit right and a lot of work went into it.
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What I am planning on doing is printing out the wood on regular printer paper and using white glue as my adhesive. I thought I would come back later and try Future flooring to give it gloss. Admittedly, it is the first time I have tried this.
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Outstanding links (which I have bookmarked). I decided to try printing off fabric also and it works great. Unfortunately when my choice was in the car, it dawned on me that it looked like "old man pajamas". But the technique works great.
When I figure out how to post pictures you'll see what I mean. Really sort of funny and it looks great from a distance. The wood looks good.
Wayne
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Outstanding. I should have thought of this. Thanks.
WAYNE
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I have done a search trying to find information on making simulated wood grain. I remember a really good thread (tutorial) months back and can't find it now. I would appreciate some suggestions about making my interior compartments come alive. I have taken the tips from this site and made massive improvements to my engine compartments, paint and overall product however; my interiors still lack that realism that I see on so many kits. I purchased some gauges (the printed type you cut out and glue in), use flocking, some bare metal foil, a few photo etched parts, but there just not "right". Maybe I am just too critical of my work. Or maybe you guys just make it look too easy (yeah thats it)
Anyway, I could really benefit from some help (especially on the wood grain). Thanks. Wayne
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Great! This is good stuff and I an thinking of hingeing a camaro I am working on. I know most folks probably know how to cut the door out, but would it be best to use a scribing tool or just work slowly with an exacto knife. Yours was really clean. Thanks for the info!
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Thanks for the responses guys. I really should have been more careful. I had seen people here show their work and say it was a curbside build, but I thought that they were just leaving the engine out on purpose and maybe saving it for another kit. It really didn't occur to me that anyone would sell a kit without an engine. I guess a lot has changed since I was a regular in the hobby.
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I recently ordered a kit of a Dodge Challenger. When it arrived I was really dissapointed to find that it had no engine. It was a "curbside build". When I read the description online it didn't say anything to clue me into this and I was wondering how I can assure that I don't make the same mistake twice. I have returned to the hobby after a lot of time off. It used to be that all kits had engines!!
I normally order from Tower. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. WAYNE -
I am pretty new here as well and I posted basically the same question as you earlier in the day. I took the responses that you got along with some information that I read posted by "Mr. Obsessive" a while back and just tried it. It worked great. I was also looking for that 1:1 mirror image. What I did was wet sand (with a little dishwashing detergent in the water)with 8,000 then up to 12,000 grit paper. I dried it and then used the micro mesh liquid (I'm not sure what you call it) and used it. What I had done wrong in the past was put it on and then go to a clean spot on the cloth. Tonight, I continued to use the spot where I had put the liquid on the cloth and go in little circles . It took awhile but it came out looking just like I wanted it to. I am not an authority but I hope that this works for you as well as it did for me.
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I have a really nice looking paint job on my Olds 442 except that I think I let some of the paint on the back rear quarter spray on dry because it does not look glossy. It also has a tiny piece of lint in it in one place (this always happens to me). My question is whether or not to sand it or to see if I can use automotive wax to finish it out. I sprayed it a couple of weeks ago and let it dry for 5 days. I then tried 12000 grit paper and removed some of the paint (to the plastic). So after the purple bath I sprayed two good thin coats, but still need to get that final glossy finish over all of it. I really don't want to screw it up because it is a good job excedpt for the two palces. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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I got this kit about a week ago and I'm doing some painting now. I really like it. The only problem I have with the kit is that I am going to do it in white just like the one on the box. It just looks too good. I normally don't like painting my projects white!
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I had reponded to this thread before and explained how I use syringes. I have always had good luck with them and have had a couple of Touch n Flow applicators that never worked for me. As it turned out I made an order to Micro Mark and needed some more glue. I thought I would try once more and purchased the Same Stuff glue that came with a Touch n Flow. My problem before was the PlastStruct glue. The "Same Stuff" glue works great in the applicator and if it becomes clogged I just let it sit in the glue a little longer and it works fine. - Just my experience. Hope it helps.
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I have been looking to buy more micro-sol decal solvent and also need to buy some paint. I can't find anyone who has it in stock (they also need to sell paint so I don't pay shipping and handling twice). Is this company having problems? Does anyone know of a product that is as good? I purchased the new Revell Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 and want to make sure those sharp decals continue to look good once I put them on the model. Thanks in advance for any suggestions you may have.
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I really appreciate the responses. There are a number of them that I will try. I may try the wrapping wire first (keeping cost low is important to me, so I won't be buying online). I can't believe what a difference the research I have done on this website has made to my models. I had almost stopped building altogether. But the stuff now looks nothing like before! Again, thanks. I will try to snap a few photos of the 69 Charger I am finishing up and post them.
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I have added a lot of realism to my projects through info gained on this site. I still am having a problem with plug wires (well really a lot of stuff but I'll stick to the wires today). I normally use wire from a phone cord but can't get it to bend naturally and look real (like gravity is naturally pulling it down). The best I have been able to do is an arch of sorts that looks pretty good but is still not quite "right". The wire also appears to look a little to big to be in scale. I was useing some wire that I bought online but it appears too small (it is easier to get it to bend and look right although it has a tendency to want to make sharp bends). I would appreciate any tips that you guys could offer.
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I have a cat that I have to give the shots to twice a day. I save the used needles and have had great luck with them. You do have to be easy and they are only good for a short period of time before the plastic inside starts to become bonded itself. I wanted to use the touch n flow and ordered two of them. I had no luck with either one. Now that I have read the comments I may give them another try (since I ended up breaking both applicators that I ordered, I will wait until I have another order up
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Thanks guys I appreciate the help. Mr. Obsessive I wanted to tell you that your work is amazing and I have picked up a lot from your tutorials and by following your comments . Hopefully I will get a decent camera soon and be able to post some of my own work. You and others on the forum have got me thinking outside the box and the hobby has become fun again.
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I am trying to locate an applicator for liquid adhesive that will allow a small drop of glue (I use Plastic Weld) to be placed so that the capillary action will draw it into the piece. Currently I use old hyperdermic needles (my cat is diabetic), but they are good for one use and then the glue obstructs them. I purchased a stainless steel "thing" that looks like a surgical instrument with a tiny "P" on the end of it, but it requires you to put a small pool of glue on something and then scoop up the adhesive. I just can't get it to work well.
I saw Mr. Obsessive use something in one of the tutorials (they are great by the way) which looks like a glass tube that would draw a small drop and hold it until you touched the surface to be glued. Does anyone know what this is or what I should look for. I hate to spend any more money hoping to stumble accross what I am looking for!
wayne
Anyway, I could really benefit from some help (especially on the wood grain). Thanks. 
I normally order from Tower. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. WAYNE
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airbrushing nail polish
in Model Building Questions and Answers
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Thanks again. One good thing about the Testers primer was that it came off really fast! I just sprayed with Duplicolor and it is great. What a great way to start.
I was careful to get enamals in the polish, so I will try thinning by 50% and see what I get.
I suppose I can still sand and wax like other enamels? There does appear to be a very slight metal flake in them.