I like to use brass at times over plastic & styrene as brass holds shape better then plastic & styrene. But building with brass can slow ya down at times unlike with styrene where you don't need heat an you can move along at a good pace. Plus with brass, it doesn't warp to much.
I'm not sure what happen to them either. I went back through an I see what you all are talking about with a group of numbers.. that's strange. I only seen one photo that showed up. If you like, I can repost a few of the photos. I also have some new ones to get uploaded as well.
I been working for the last 6 months on some correct rims for on this project. I don't want to go resin or plastic on it. I want to go more correct on the rims. Have about 5 projects on the go right now. I will post some photos maybe over the weekend.
I mostly use the Dollar Store "Elmers" spray glue which runs around here at 4.50 a can. But I guess you could use any kind of spray glue. I just pick which side I want either dull or shinny an spray the opposite side with the glue, wait about 5 minutes for the glue to get tacky. Cut a chunk big enough for the area I'm working in an start at the center point an work out in both directions with foil with a q-tip or my finger. If the glue on the sheet drys or gets to untacky for you, just give it another light coat is all of spray glue.
I been using spray glue & aluminum foil trick for years for model car builds. To be honest it sure out past hobby bmf stuff I would say by a long shot an looks more real as well. Why worry about a shelf life of bmf sheets when you can make your own very easy plus when you want it or need an have the choice of dull look or shinny look just by a side of a single piece.
I just saw where someone had mention that Revell has the chassis already. I would like to point something out here. I am in the process of correcting one of there charger chassis so that it be more correct. They have half a correct chassis is all. The trunk area is way incorrect, the trunk frame rails are not even correct even in how they are ran. There rails are more straight then what the real 1:1 rails are. The firewalls are also way way incorrect as well, more of a stright down where as the real charger firewalls has a few curves in them.
If I had to pick AMT/MPC or Revell kit, I would go Revell hands down. Even though some of there kits might have incorrect stuff, at least there kits has a lot more detail then AMT/MPC does.
I wouldn't even use a AMT/MPC charger kit to make a 1970 Charger, pressingly if you wanted a nice detailed one. I would go the Revell route.
The Dukes kit of 1997, and the 2005 Dukes movie package are the same. It wasn't until they did the F&F Vins Charger was where they corrected the rear window, that was somewhere in around 2003ish. Yet it still came with a very incorrect grill, a 1969 grill as well, all the Dukes stuff was still there in the kit with a few extra added items to make the F&F Charger one.
Then Round2 came out with the new tooled snaptite General Lee kit as a new charger kit, while that kit might be new, round2 still mess up on the very most recognize pieces of the car, they messed up the rims & did not at all correct that thing they call a push bar. While the kit is a kit I would buy, the rims troughs me a very bad curve ball. Those rims are not 10 spoke Vector rims at all. They don't even come close to them.
I would used Round2 new General Lee kit to make a 1970 Charger, it's way better then the other two, even Revell has a nice 1968 & 1969 ones I would use.