Thanks Tim, Mike and Bob - much appreciated. Got a ways to go for body corrections, mine and Rolls, but I am trying. A 'feel good' (but crappy shot); I cut and fitted the Lexan into place. It's water-clear and looks smashing in person. The gap under center of the frame will be shimmed and puttied, but care needed to allow for body paint thickness. Will wrap and store windscreen for safety until late in the build. There are no marks on it. Would like to cut side and rear Lexans but not much pep to do that just now. Regards, C.
More chrome... As promised the running board. Polished to 12,000 then strips fitted. Being hand-made items, they have minute differences in the spacing of the 00-90 mounting pins so fitting them where I drilled the holes originally requires care. But with no stress on them they seat nicely in place. Here's the result. Again poor pictures but I'm satisfied that in place between the fenders they will be an outstanding accent. As of now the main parts with color on them are all fenders, the trunk and these boards. The large fender and trunk parts require polishing because they get stored and handled for test fittings so I leave the polish on those until final assembly. And a final thanks and recommendation to Dave Cox for fabricating these jewels. Some parts such as these are just not available from Marvin or anywhere else. I urge any of you building Pochers to contact him for custom parts you can't make yourself. They can transform your model.
Crawling back... The absence of work lately has been due to very sudden ill health. I am now on the right track (fingers crossed) with docs and meds and may actually survive this. But my beloved Rolls has been untouched for weeks. As mentioned a few posts ago some of the chrome plated parts have returned and really cheered me up. So here's a brief look. I'm planning to actually DO something tomorrow; I'll polish the clear paint on a running board then permanently mount the chrome strips. Tasty. A side note; I know you're probably tired of seeing the major bodywork in black and white raw plastic. I've been encouraged to prime everything 'cause it's cool to see a WIP project at least all one color. But I have firmly been a believer of getting the surfaces near perfect raw, then priming and fine skim coats as needed. I have to handle these big parts way too much which leads to corrupted primer anyway. So the w'shield frame doesn't stand out now as much as it will when the surround is dark maroon with no gaps. But that WILL happen. Pardon the mediocre pictures; small chrome parts are hard to show and I'm not up to my old standards just yet. These actually look way better in person than the pictures; a little shimming under the center will eliminate the small gaps. I'm proud of the curved, kerfed corners with nearly no imperfections- my first such attempt. Then, the secret is to polish the brass until it's flawless, then start all over again. Honest.
You can dull the leather by gently rubbing with very fine steel wool Bo. Practice on scrap to see what you want. Tell me; how does adhesive hold the waxed string to the smooth leather? And which adhesive are you using?
Your reference photos are great; go with that. Use a Testors Metallizer silver and leave it dull with just a rub on the edges. I was MD at World in 2006 when we cast the Hemi for CC. The iron blocks all got painted Hemi orange. I shot the first one for the initial full-page ads in Hot Rod and all perf. magazines. The ally blocks were raw but the molds were beautiful and the blocks and heads had a natural sheen to them - not a shine. The casting was very dense. The cut decks looked like chrome. Of course on the dyno, they dulled a little bit.