To further confuse you... A situation has occurred which caused me to divert from the above hinge / hood project briefly. To a really exciting addition of the model. Always planning ahead all the phases of construction, for some time, I had planned to make chromed brass strips for the running boards. Foil or paint on the molded strips just was not acceptable to me. But the learning curve to make them is a steep one at my skill level. So on a hunch, I contacted David Cox for advice about his advanced building techniques. Virtually all of his models feature chromed brass frames and strips in their decor. After some conversation, David offered to custom make strips to my design. I went ahead and purchased them and could not be more pleased. This saved me a hard learning project and much time. So I stopped the hood work to install them. I did this as a priority so I could return them to David for chroming as he had many bits of his own to be plated so mine could go along. I included my brass windshield frame, completed months ago. When I received them, they were also jewel-like in their craftsmanship, just as Marvin's parts are. David was Marvin's partner for some 15 years and together they built over 70 Pochers. Now David just builds for his own customers and his work on extreme and 'stock' Pochers can be seen here: http://www.detailedmodelcars.com/ In preparation for the strips, I had to sand the molded strips off the boards and then decided to make a drilling template. Seen in the first shot, the template made of .020 was sized exactly to the board. The strips are attached to the boards by 'pegs' which are inserted into holes drilled in the board. The strips are drilled in 2 or 3 places, the pegs inserted then soldered on top. The solder works down the threads to the back. The excess solder is then filed away, the parts polished and are then complete. Those pegs are actually 1mm bolts (he sometimes uses wire) which he gets precisely in even-spaced locations using dividers. This is closely related to watch-making, not model building. After preparing the boards and templates, I transferred the peg locations to the styrene and drilled .041 holes. I then placed the templates on the boards and drilled in those locations. The result is stunning and as real as you can get for a Pocher. I am much in debt to David and suggest you contact him through his site if you desire similar custom built parts - or even a whole model.
Great work Bo. Continue with the patient test fitting - it is vital with these Pochers. If it's anything like mine, the four hood panels and the hinge will be very difficult. Especially if the hinge parts are warped or bent.
Thanks Eric but I have my hands full with this obsession. I love Duesies but maybe in the next life. Work has been on-going just no 'pretty picture, show / tell stuff'. I've resisted the temptation to shoot primer and get that pretty look because of all the handling done and yet to be done. Having finalized the body, trunk and door positions, I have turned attention to the hood tops and getting a perfect fit between grille and cowl. I have gotten that straight, level hood I wanted. Took warps out of the front edge of left panel. The key was bolting the hinge halves to the panels instead of melting the pegs in place. This allows perfecting each half panel for fit. And later, painting without masking the chromed brass hinge. So far so good only to find a huge problem with the Pocher hinge; it warps upward at each end. The wire they used looks like a banana removed from the hoops. I have come up with a solution but it's tricky to execute. Will show and tell all soon.
Everything Bill said plus; Use the tiniest bit of hardener in your mix. You just want it to turn very slightly pink - or you will have no working time. It will kick too fast. If it does, mix another batch; don't try to use it.
Harry, this reminded me of your 1/16 wooden bipe; the Sopwith Camel(?) Shame it's not 1/8 scale to go with this but you could shoot it next to your 'test' 'Brake (1/16); I think both wood models would look smashing together.
Cement will only texture the surface which you don't want. When you sand that, you're making your piece even thinner. Just shoot Future on the bare plastic. Only one step and you have nothing to lose. Then prime.
Important but not exciting... I have been working every day since the last update so here is the important result. The body and floor mate as a unit and the whole assembly mates to the chassis - in a solid and repeatable way. You've seen many prior pictures of the car mocked-up this way but there is a difference now. Many hours of measuring and test fitting improved it all. I went back and made stronger, more accurate locations for all mounting points. I added two new ones (total of 6), and a pair of chassis brackets which now secure the lower front of the body. I made improved 'clamps' to securely hold the floor unit to the body lower flanges. The trunk aligns with the body perfectly. No Pocher screws anywhere; all fasteners are by 6, 2mm studs, tapped and epoxied in place with nuts. The lower front of the body uses 0-80 bolts with nuts through a brass bracket. I will post all the 'fill-in' shots of these parts and assemblies soon. But here is the result. For the first time, the unit sits flush on the chassis and firewall with no bind, twist or warp; it just glides right onto the locating studs and the bolt holes align. A 'tee' pin is seen in the lower front where the bolt goes through the bracket. They fit perfectly with all the other locators in place, a very rewarding feeling. This is what lets you install and remove body work for finish and interior and have it all go back precisely and unseen when carpet and seats are installed.