This Bug has 'positive camber'; the tops of the wheels tip outward when viewed from the front. Largely because of such narrow tread width. All race cars and many street cars today have 'negative camber' where the wheels tip inboard at the top. This plants wide tires more upright under hard cornering, increasing the contact patch. All are measured in degrees. Street cars are all less than 1 degree neg and racecars can be as much as 4 -4 1/2. They don't care about tire wear, only maximum cornering traction. 'Toe in' is when viewed from above, the front edge of the wheels point towards each other. This is measured usually in fractions of an inch. Neutral or 'Toe out' is used on race cars to help turn-in ability. And take better pictures so we can throw stones at your work !!!!
A slow return to the bench... A very slow recovery has given me plenty of time to re-think some past assemblies and plan some other new ones. Not well enough to tackle the 'engineering' biggies like the door latches and window frame fitment but art / craft paper doll stuff is a start. One such project is the cabin's carpet. Much earlier in the build I showed my solution with velour doll house carpet and 'binding' I made with shrink tube. It never really suited me although it was acceptable. Fast forward nearly a year and I finally noodled-out a plan for proper binding. I came across leather piping or lacing as it's known, which was the big 'lights-on' idea. Here is the original carpet with the gray shrink edging next to the new bound edged carpet; they are EXCATLY cut from the same piece of carpet but pictures and available light make them look different colors. Each photo here is a slightly different color but the darker-looking ones are correct. It's a pretty close match for the red of the fenders / body:
The big discovery was the lacing. There are several sites that sell it and I found a good one. They sell 3 meter packages of the lacing, all genuine leather. They have a large color selection but it's difficult to match on screen. I took best guess and picked two that sort of 'bracket' my rug color. The other difficult part was knowing what diameter (thickness) to be correct to scale. For the carpet I took a blind guess at 1.5mm; for seat use (gray) I chose 1mm. Better lucky than good, I came out just right. Here's the leather lacing:
I made a paper template of the cabin floor and then another one whose outer edges were 1mm smaller (not 1.5) than the floor. I then cut a piece of .005 styrene sheet (which I forgot to photo!) using the floor template. The idea being to cut the carpet to its template and mount it on the styrene with a 'border' showing. This to allow the lacing a gluing surface other than just the cut edge of carpeting with a bit of overlap so the plastic doesn't show on the edge. Glued the rug to styrene using double side tape and gel CA in a couple of dots at corners. Clear as mud, right?? Here's what it looks like:
http:// Here's what it looks like in place. The slight bubble on the right side is because it's just resting in place snugly. It will be completely flat when glued in, using Aileen's Tacky Glue. Also seen is the aluminum exposed panel below the foot pedals. The edge of carpet needs a tiny trimming and piping to clear the left edge of the exposed panel: http:// http:// http:// A little 'dress rehearsal' in place in the cabin. I'm pleased because it's more in scale and hardly noticeable, which is very much like 1:1. It's just a subtle neat edge and I'm pretty relieved it bugged me enough to change.
More girly arts / crafts stuff until I can put 6 hours in one sitting doing the 'big stuff'. But this is a satisfying start and it's good to be back. I'm obviously in no rush or losing interest in my beloved Roller. Funny how, with the passage of time, you can look at your work and say 'I could have done that better'...
Apologize for the mistake but that photo of the seat base separate with the hole at the rear got me wondering. A pleasure to look at and follow your work. I TRY to help but you're doing fine without me..
Great to see you in action again. With the Dupli, a bit of 3200 grit on the color (wet) then two medium coats of Dupli clear sanded 4 - 6- 8000 wet then your polishing stuff. You want enough clear so as not to burn through to color. That's what works for me; flattening the base color is key.
Bo. I just caught this. I believe you have the brackets installed incorrectly. The white plastic base has a hole for the pin near the back edge of seat part. I think the brackets should have the longer leg as the vertical and the shorter one would then align with the seat pin hole. Not have a Benz Pocher, I may be totally wrong so check with Marvin.
Thank you for digging out from so far in the thread; must have made an impression on you! Glad you like. I'm actually picking at some minor subassemblies while layed-up and will have a small update very soon. So much time has passed I'm actually redoing some things I've thought better of. Be back soon...and thanks for good thoughts. EDIT: Here's one of the 'hot' side: