Here's what they are and I have. They work swell for removing peel and getting to glass. Also good on model windows. Use wet with soap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MICRO-MESH-Finishing-Polishing-Set-3-x-4-Sheets-9-Grades-MADE-IN-USA-/171349259111?hash=item27e5363367:g:CDcAAOxyoVZTInvY
Thanks Bill - exactly what I was asking. Never was a Krylon fan but the only way I could get the color that was in my head. It's Krylon Indoor / Outdoor gloss lacquer. Here it is on a test door panel with Dupli Dark Toreador Red. Would obviously prefer to shoot one clear over both without damage. The acrylic clear isn't bad and is on here now. It did take a decent polish up to 12,000 grit.
No exact answer in the search here and I'm considering going with a chemical mis-match. Has anyone used the Testors over Duplicolor and Krylon lacquer colors? Is it mild like Tamiya lacquers? I get good results with Krylon Crystal Clear acrylic over them but want a one-step clear with no polishing cloths.
Masking testing... This was a test to find the best materials and techniques to get a perfect color break line on the body sides of my Rolls. The test dummy was door #1 seen above. I did not fill and smooth the surface beyond 400 grit for prime. The colors are not rubbed out or cleared. I only wanted to get a clean color separation, not perfect paint. After all, this is not the door going on the car. The four fenders and trunk are perfect in the dark red and cleared, needing only final polishing cloths before assembly. Decided to shoot the brighter color first which is the lower. So first I shot the whole door with Duplicolor gray prime. After appropriate dry time (true for all the spraying steps to come) I masked the upper with first, a strip of yellow Tammy tape across the curve. I then cut a clean edge with new scalpel blade. Then masked the remainder of the upper with Friskit Paper. Shot Krylon White Prime on lower (3 coats), sanded to 600 and shot the Krylon Sweet Cream. Disclaimer; I am believer in using paints by the same manufacturer but Krylon had the color I wanted, not Dupicolor. After 2 days dry time, I removed upper masking. Found an immediate mistake; the hot Krylon overspray caused the Friskit to deposit its adhesive on the gray prime. Easily removed with Goo Gone and Isopropyl. Moral; remove masks sooner but the Kry does take longer than the Dupli to set up. Next, I masked with the Tammy 3mm curve tape shown, right at the edge of the break line. It takes the curve beautifully. Below that, I cut and taped (on the 3mm tape and on the door back) a sheet of tin foil. I then sanded the upper with 600 and reprimed with gray Dupli. I wipe all my primers with 70% Iso after sanding and before color. Then came 3 coats of Dupli dark Toreador Red, again all with adequate dry spells in about 100 degree heat. That's it. I removed the mask, this time within 2 hours of the last coat. No print through or marring with a razor edge. So this is the first real hint of where it's going with the color combinations. I found three coats of the Cream match the wheels exactly and three coats of the red match the fenders and trunk exactly. So a lot learned and I can't emphasize enough taking the extra time to test.
Thanks Bob. In hindsight, trimming the sides of the floor pan (which the body rocker panels attach to) by 2mm per side would have taken the flair out of the lower body. That would make the doors flatter on their skins and not needing a twist. I'll know to look for that on my next RR...
To clarify... I've been asked about the 'twisting' of the door skin with brass tubing. Here is why and how it comes out. The reason is to get the upper front corner of the door to mate with the cowl so the latch can engage it. I was doing this by heat-bending the original Pocher door but with much thicker plastic and the natural pinch-in of the body, found it impossible through much trial and error. I realize that many Rolls builders never have this problem but don't know why. My many body modifications were not effecting this area. Here is the door seen from the top. The front is at the left and the curve at the bottom is evident. A big improvement is that the door top is now near perfectly straight (with a pronounced curve at the bottom) and the interior panel will lie flat. A big change from the bent Pocher.
Seen from the front edge,the latch area is at the top. Note how it tips inward compared to the bottom. Also the compound curvature of the whole bottom door edge is evident compared to the straighter top edge.