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About Cato

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    MCM Ohana

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  • Scale I Build 1/12

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  • Location Eastern East Coast
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Cato's Activity

  1. Cato added a post in a topic Problems w/ body filler   

    Everything Bill said plus;
    Use the tiniest bit of hardener in your mix. You just want it to turn very slightly pink - or you will have no working time. It will kick too fast. If it does, mix another batch; don't try to use it.
  2. Cato added a post in a topic 1/8 scale woody   

    Harry, this reminded me of your 1/16 wooden bipe; the Sopwith Camel(?) Shame it's not 1/8 scale to go with this but you could shoot it next to your 'test' 'Brake (1/16); I think both wood models would look smashing together.
  3. Cato added a post in a topic The "new" '29 roadster   

    Amazing what Revell is pushing out the door these days...and sad.
  4. Cato added a post in a topic Ghosting avoidance help   

    Yep. That will last you 100 years.
  5. Cato added a post in a topic The "new" '29 roadster   

    For your next build; A 427 has a front mounted distributor.
  6. Cato added a post in a topic Ghosting avoidance help   

    Cement will only texture the surface which you don't want. When you sand that, you're making your piece even thinner.
    Just shoot Future on the bare plastic. Only one step and you have nothing to lose. Then prime.
  7. Cato added a post in a topic Touch n' Flow help   

    Thanks for digging this thread out Mike. I see I need that bottle which draws the fluid in.
  8. Cato added a post in a topic Pocher Rolls Sedanca   

    Here's an early test fit; firewall even with grille shell (too high) and body cowl even higher. Compared to the above it makes me very happy I did all that surgery to get to this point.

  9. Cato added a post in a topic Pocher Rolls Sedanca   

    No judges in the future; I'll be happy just to see it every day if it comes out as I hope. Thanks for the very kind words Tim.
  10. Cato added a post in a topic Pocher Rolls Sedanca   

    Important but not exciting...
    I have been working every day since the last update so here is the important result. The body and floor mate as a unit and the whole assembly mates to the chassis - in a solid and repeatable way. You've seen many prior pictures of the car mocked-up this way but there is a difference now. Many hours of measuring and test fitting improved it all.
    I went back and made stronger, more accurate locations for all mounting points. I added two new ones (total of 6), and a pair of chassis brackets which now secure the lower front of the body. I made improved 'clamps' to securely hold the floor unit to the body lower flanges. The trunk aligns with the body perfectly. No Pocher screws anywhere; all fasteners are by 6, 2mm studs, tapped and epoxied in place with nuts. The lower front of the body uses 0-80 bolts with nuts through a brass bracket.
    I will post all the 'fill-in' shots of these parts and assemblies soon. But here is the result. For the first time, the unit sits flush on the chassis and firewall with no bind, twist or warp; it just glides right onto the locating studs and the bolt holes align. A 'tee' pin is seen in the lower front where the bolt goes through the bracket. They fit perfectly with all the other locators in place, a very rewarding feeling. This is what lets you install and remove body work for finish and interior and have it all go back precisely and unseen when carpet and seats are installed.

  11. Cato added a post in a topic Ghosting avoidance help   

    Airbrush Future on completed body work then primer. Future is an excellent barrier.
  12. Cato added a post in a topic Pocher Rolls Sedanca   

    Another tip...
    This is primarily for Rolls builders but may work on other hard-roof cars like Alfa Coupe and Bugatti.
    I needed to work the bottom of the chassis but with the body attached. I've made body mount brackets (will show soon) which bolt to the bottom rails and connect to the new, lower body edge. First attach the body / floor unit to the chassis. I have 2mm studs through the rear floor and 0-80 bolts through the front floor. If you have workstands, remove the rear one and carefully invert the whole car. Rest the roof on a pad and you're done. Solid and safe to measure and attach parts. No front fender though because of the front stand.
    I knew there was a good reason I whacked the windshield down. Almost as good as a rotisserie...

  13. Cato added a post in a topic Pocher 1933 Bugatti Type 50T   

    Maybe a little Dullcote to knock the tire treads down? Instead of all that sanding dust....
  14. Cato added a post in a topic Another Pocher Mercedes building. Cabrio Special.   

    Very nice work Bo.
    What was the solution to the white paint on the firewall?
  15. Cato added a post in a topic Pocher Rolls Sedanca   

    Lucky sometimes...
    As described, a bunch of planning and test fits have been going on before the next big project; soldering up window frames and door assembling. In particular, I needed to get the trunk and rear fenders fastened solidly to the main structure. I kind of hit a wall with this boring stuff so I began disassembling the last mock-up to begin the door work. And then, an idea simply presented itself.
    Having made several types of brackets and looked at 3 types of screws / bolts, I had no satisfactory way to secure the trunk. But the simple answer was, the same way I secured the rear of the floorboard.
    Using 2mm threaded rod, I had drilled and tapped the chassis and made a 'stud', then drilled the floor in the exact location (fun) and retained with a nut. I've had the floor / body unit on and off literally countless times and the system has been bulletproof.
    So using some soft putty placed on the chassis in the approximate area, I placed the trunk in position and compressed the putty. This gave me the height of the spacer block I'd need. After measuring, 1/8 x 1/4 styrene rod was cut to 15mm long and checked for fit between chassis and trunk bottom. Much careful measuring of the distances from the rear of the body and in from the trunk side followed. This determined where the block should sit on the chassis and where holes should be drilled in it and the trunk floor. All this was necessary because the trunk has been severely altered from stock. Seen in other pictures, the details atop the gas tank had to be removed in order for the trunk to sit square in the chassis. No matter, as they are unseen even in a stock build.
    The chassis paint was scuffed in the area, the block also. A bit of German gray will make this all  disappear later.  A .062 hole was drilled off center in the block and matching place on the chassis. A peg of styrene rod was inserted to make a small locating peg which (along with the 2mm stud) would prevent the block from ever moving. A drop of gel CA and then the #49 hole was drilled and tapped for the 2mm threads. Then CA on the threads as they sank down to the bottom of the chassis channel. Trunk holes were located and drilled slightly oversize. A washer will be under the nut upon final assembly. I lucked-out with a perfect, secure fit. Once again the value of stout (compared to Pocher screws) removable 2mm fasteners are highly recommended to Pocher builders. I can now make simple 2mm bolts, (a nut CA'd to a length of threaded rod) to secure each fender to the trunk body. Just a lot of tricky measuring and a tapped block inside needed. I may not have to attach the trunk to the body because 4 studs already hold the floor unit to the chassis.
    Actually easier to do than write about. Overcoming a stumbling block always gives you much enthusiasm to move ahead...