OK, fess up Harry. You have posted work for 5 weeks now. You are nearly ready to put oil in the crankcase and drive it to the museum. I have been working on a similar ambitious project for 16 months now. I readily admit my skill set is inferior to yours in the ability to get an assembly 'right' quickly and move ahead. Also granted is the fact that I have chosen many extreme changes after much was already built 'stock' which has been hugely time consuming. You have offset that by building a non-stock version with wood bodywork which is much fabrication; equivalent to my alteration of stock pieces. Your 'training wheels' smaller model may have given you an 'instruction sheet' which saves noodling time, figuring out as you go. But you have still have had to fabricate and finish much larger pieces as you go; time consuming. An example is your detailed engine, which if these posts are correct, took a week or less. Mine has a similar level of scratched detail and took me almost four. I bow to your expedient methods. I work roughly 6 hours every time I start but life dictates not every day. Do you put in twelve hour-days on it? I've been interrupted by a family medical situation but so have you - temporary loss of vision. My wheels took about a week for me to do the 5. The chassis (straight assembly, not including the later radical alterations to it) about two weeks. My rear seat took about three weeks to dope-out, fabricate, cover and assemble. Haven't yet touched material for the fronts. I haven't looked at it recently but I seem to remember your Benz Roadster took much more time than this Roller. I'll be the first to admit that if it takes me forever, I'll be just as happy; the satisfaction has been enormous and outweighed all the expense. I'm certain your satisfaction is the same because you're creating a highly unique and masterful project. So I ask dear pal, did you have some or much started before posting such startling results or am I really as lame a builder as I suspect?
Not mentioned at all but true in my case; brass can be chromed - plastic not. My windshield frame, side and rear glass frames are made from brass; then will be chromed. Nothing looks like chrome - except chrome.
Small potatoes... Some things just bother me that, in the grand scheme of things, amount to very little. Who besides me would notice? This is one of those. Seen here in an earlier mock-up is the rear fender and tire relationship. You can see that open space is visible around the tire; you can see clear through to the other side in some places. True, if the rear seat was in place, some would be blocked. But then you see the seat structure and the lower body bits as well. And admittedly when the model is on it's tires on a table, 80% of this is invisible. But I know it's there...
Here's a fender as Pocher gives it to you. Note that the rear inner portion is molded to the fender and conceals the trunk side. But the front section is open and is on a different plane than the rear:
So the solution is to make a new inner fender panel. It must attach to the rear portion which is part of the fender. But the forward portion must be loose to go behind the brake drum and tire so as to allow clearance for those. The answer is to cut a paper pattern all trimmed to size and clearance. After test fittings, transfer to .015 styrene. Seen here, a .062 styrene rod is added as a stiffner without taking up valuable clearance space:
Resting in place, the slightly oversized forward section does it's hiding magic and the whole wheel well becomes neater:
Seen from an angle you'll never see when on display is the reason the front section must be lose. The stiffener and material thickness prevent a loose, flappy look:
Painted dark gray like the front inner fenders, this will virtually all disappear as so little shows around the tire. But it does give a neater finished look to the model that many will never even realize when viewing it. The 'U' shaped opening on this side is for the gas fill pipe to the tank side. Even I am amazed at how much time I spend on minutiae...
Comparison... Easier to see the changes this way. Here is a well-built out of box example from the Paul Koo DVD. This is what you get when you build straight from the kit parts: http:// After months of changes: http://
The roof was pie-cut; 13mm at front edge, 4mm at the back. It's all in the thread but probably too hard to dig out. I wanted to kill the 'coal scoop' look from Pocher. The rear glass is untouched, just lower due to the cut. That's why the trunk height was cut about 6mm too. This is much closer to Gurney cars. The back of the rear seat comes up to the bottom of the rear window. I did in fact cut 6mm from the bottom edge of the upholstered seat back after the roof chop. looks all very proportional now. No wearers of period hats will sit there. Only slightly reclined, scantily clad, slinky starlets and '29 flappers. Dude, this is my bucket build so don't harsh my dreams. Yes, the roof will be covered in deep red gabardine with Marvin's beautiful landau irons. First the beltline must be designed to sweep front to rear. The fabric will not have the exaggerated dip ala Pocher but will be lower on the body side because of the chop. In fact the top won't look so radically cut when its bottom edge is defined lower. Spent a lot of time studying this. Style is everything. Loren didn't build his collection around cars he could wear a top hat in. PS - Your eyes are far less out of whack than mine are...
Nice thought but I need the length of that board to continue the largely horizontal look of all the lines. Also, it gives me a chance to make chromed brass step strips as further accents.