Great little joint you're putting up there pal. Building room is cool. Ask the builders to put some AC ducting in and through the wall (with a closure flap) for your spray booth exhaust. Better now than when closed up.
'Pocherous'. I love it. A term by which all mechanical things wacky are described. You're in The Club. Great to see you back on the WIP page Scott. And you're right; this is closer to Pocher than I remembered (did the F-2, decades ago). Pick up the good techniques from this that will apply to that huge stash of P's you've got. And get one on the bench...
The bottom of the body between the wheels in sideview, is called the rocker panel. The bottom line between the front and rear is straight on this model. The 1:1's tapers upward at the front wheel slightly from a point about under the door front shut line. If you remember, when I reshaped the fenders on my 1/16 Italari you sent me excellent photos which led me to correct that too. Sadly the side view in the link I send shows that clearly.
I took a chance and bought their bench-top bandsaw. Got a wacky sale and paid $112 for it. ($169) The key is to set it up carefully, make adjustments as needed and true the table-to-blade. Tossed the stock junk blade and bought a quality 1/4" 'Wood' blade. Perfect for model plastic, thin-walled brass and hobby wood. Sectioned parts of my Rolls with it and cut the brass window frames and wood sub forms. Very happy when used in the model-building way.
It's all over the European sites. This is definitely the Eaglemoss kit. Hence, the fast release time. It is very well done with the above-mentioned roof seam excepted. Another strange thing missed by both companies is the kick up in the rocker panel aft of the front wheel. Suspect it was cheaper to mold the body without one. http://cachastyle.blogspot.com/2011/07/picasa-web-albums-sofiaec10-59-fairlane_06.html EDIT: scroll down the stupid site page to the side view and click on it to enlarge.
My references showed some P II's with and without welting. Many of the Gurney cars had it or were restored with it. Can't be sure how many unrestored cars all had it. I have pictures of both. But since I'm way off originality (to prototypes) I prefer the look of near perfect as I can get it coachwork. Don't want to add a distraction to the color sweep.
More preparation... Still unable to go 6 hours a day on big stuff (and will be that way for a longer while yet) I manage to sneak a few here and there to make the big stuff go together better. Study and head-scratching takes most of my time but here, I finally figured out a workable system for what was a long standing worry. I hope it's a valuable tip for you Pocher guys of all the classics. The problem; get the rear fenders to mate securely to the main body and the trunk, with no gaps. The front half of the fenders-to-body has already been secured with my '2mm bolt' fix, which allows them to be removed many times for fitting purposes. That was shown earlier in the thread. The overall sequence goes like this; floor bolts to chassis (on 4, 2mm studs), body clamped to floor (by fabricated rocker panel clamps also seen earlier), and trunk bolts to chassis (on 2, 2mm studs). So now to 'pin' the rear half of the fenders to the trunk and have a stable, solid coach. The thought occurred that a very effective method explained by Paul Koo in his CD might work but slightly differently. Paul shows the 'melting method'; sinking Pocher screws into their holes with a heated soldering iron. This stops the break-out of screw holes because of their taper as the hot screw creates its own threads deep in the plastic and allows removal. Because of the radical changes to my car like rotating the fenders, sectioning the trunk and the general relocation of the body, none of the original Pocher hole locations are useful. The inside wall of the fender needs to mate to the outside wall of the trunk, which overlaps the chassis rail. The simple solution is to run a screw straight through the fender wall into the trunk wall. But there's the old problem of just a few removals and you have a stripped hole which holds nothing. So why not a bolt and nut solution?; I chose an 0-80 bolt, washer and nut for the strength. The key being to melt the nut in place (making it captive) on the back side of the trunk wall. After much measuring and trial / error, the suitable location was found and holes drilled. The key is to thread the bolt through the trunk wall and nut and then apply the heat. This keeps hot plastic out of the threads:
Being lucky rather than good, this is how the bolt up looks outside. Fender tight to the trunk. DON'T overtighten the bolt; just get the parts to touch together with no gap and you're good.
For a bit of peace of mind, mix some 5 minute epoxy and CAREFULLY make a mound around the shoulder of the nut, taking care to keep the threads clean. The overall result and what you're after; hope this tip is of use to Pocherphiles:
No Bo, it is a large bottle of floor care product. You CAN apply with brush this way; get a soft art brush at least 1/2" wide and flow it on. Work quickly and smoothly but don't get drips. It will self-level when completely dry. It you have any marks at all, you can very lightly scuff them with 1000 grit or 4-0 steel wool. If it's a poor application the whole thing can be removed with Windex and warm water and start again. Bill's product above is also excellent but you need airbrush. Nick's method in your other thread works well with the silver paint and that you can get in sprays. Just don't keep loading primers on. Sand between so there's not too much and you have an even surface.