More chrome... As promised the running board. Polished to 12,000 then strips fitted. Being hand-made items, they have minute differences in the spacing of the 00-90 mounting pins so fitting them where I drilled the holes originally requires care. But with no stress on them they seat nicely in place. Here's the result. Again poor pictures but I'm satisfied that in place between the fenders they will be an outstanding accent. As of now the main parts with color on them are all fenders, the trunk and these boards. The large fender and trunk parts require polishing because they get stored and handled for test fittings so I leave the polish on those until final assembly. And a final thanks and recommendation to Dave Cox for fabricating these jewels. Some parts such as these are just not available from Marvin or anywhere else. I urge any of you building Pochers to contact him for custom parts you can't make yourself. They can transform your model.
Crawling back... The absence of work lately has been due to very sudden ill health. I am now on the right track (fingers crossed) with docs and meds and may actually survive this. But my beloved Rolls has been untouched for weeks. As mentioned a few posts ago some of the chrome plated parts have returned and really cheered me up. So here's a brief look. I'm planning to actually DO something tomorrow; I'll polish the clear paint on a running board then permanently mount the chrome strips. Tasty. A side note; I know you're probably tired of seeing the major bodywork in black and white raw plastic. I've been encouraged to prime everything 'cause it's cool to see a WIP project at least all one color. But I have firmly been a believer of getting the surfaces near perfect raw, then priming and fine skim coats as needed. I have to handle these big parts way too much which leads to corrupted primer anyway. So the w'shield frame doesn't stand out now as much as it will when the surround is dark maroon with no gaps. But that WILL happen. Pardon the mediocre pictures; small chrome parts are hard to show and I'm not up to my old standards just yet. These actually look way better in person than the pictures; a little shimming under the center will eliminate the small gaps. I'm proud of the curved, kerfed corners with nearly no imperfections- my first such attempt. Then, the secret is to polish the brass until it's flawless, then start all over again. Honest.
You can dull the leather by gently rubbing with very fine steel wool Bo. Practice on scrap to see what you want. Tell me; how does adhesive hold the waxed string to the smooth leather? And which adhesive are you using?
Your reference photos are great; go with that. Use a Testors Metallizer silver and leave it dull with just a rub on the edges. I was MD at World in 2006 when we cast the Hemi for CC. The iron blocks all got painted Hemi orange. I shot the first one for the initial full-page ads in Hot Rod and all perf. magazines. The ally blocks were raw but the molds were beautiful and the blocks and heads had a natural sheen to them - not a shine. The casting was very dense. The cut decks looked like chrome. Of course on the dyno, they dulled a little bit.
Arrrgh... I've taken many steps back and none forward over the last several days. Remember the trunk lid? A few compound curve seams were showing. Well couldn't live with it. I was going to make a trunk rack to 'disguise' the flaws, which is a lame thing to do. Not my style to cut a corner that badly. So plenty of Bondo, paper and time and I got it as perfect as it can be. NOW I can live with it. AND I'm going to make a trunk rack too, a marvelous chrome detail if I get it right. A heartbreak caused me to go the whole nine yards with the window frames. With all the door mock-ups, a 90 degree corner split open on me. I doubled down - remade each leg of both quarter lights from new; no repair botch. Started with a new plastic template - more accurate than the old. Made a new 'solder block' (for the inside corners) to match the template perfectly. Today I carefully cut and mitered (perfect fits) them all and drilled their plate holes. I discovered the two old ones didn't match each other exactly which is why I went back to square one. REALLY aggravated myself because I THINK I take care when I make things but see some things are slipping by me. At least I won't have to look at errors each time I look at it after completion. Also stopped horsing around and ordered a new Weller 40 watt solder iron; realized my 30 year-old Craftsman is down to the nub. Trying to do jewelry with blacksmith tools. There are lessons to be learned as you go along. More, sooner...
Here's where we're going... Today, the biggest accomplishment was figuring-out a system. And I did; shown is the miter cut 3/32 square channel for the window frames. Jigged, pinned and silver soldered cleanly.The problem being to solder the corners cleanly and keep silver solder out of the inner channel corners. BY FAR the key to this operation is to keep the channel corners clear so your glass fits. After a lot of experimenting the answer was baking pan ally, folded, cut and bent to fit comfortably into the corners. Silver solder won't stick to it. Worked a charm; no glop inside the corners which the last shot attempts to show. Note the lower blocker has the rear edge cut to match the slope of the rear of the glass; you want no gaps inside or you'll get solder. With just a little file and 220 work the corners are crisp and clean. And the original plastic template fits perfectly as shown. Plenty still to solder and dress but much relieved I've got a reliable system. It took me days to clear the channels in the 'screen frame using folded tin foil (boo) but this took 3 minutes to join and 5 to finish dress the corners.. The sooner I finish the sooner off for chrome; I'm excited to see the 'screen frame and running board strips come home soon. I'm also planning a chrome accessory which will be another soldering adventure... The pros may do this with far less effort and different ways but there are other ways to skin the cat. I'm satisfied the result will be hard to tell from a pro's work. YOU CAN DO THIS; if I can, you can. The look of chromed windwings and partially lowered side glass adds a natural and elegant touch to any Rolls and some of the other Pocher Classics. And better men than I can actually make these things pivot out and lower but my train stops here. I'm OK with that... EDIT: The pictures loaded in the opposite order than I loaded them. Dunno why. I HATE trying to get professional results with this 'progress'.