Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About W-409

  • Birthday 12/02/1996

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Vantaa, Finland
  • Full Name
    Niko Lindström

Recent Profile Visitors

22,801 profile views

W-409's Achievements

MCM Ohana

MCM Ohana (6/6)

  1. I just went through this whole thread and you're doing some amazing work with this Dodge. Especially the door panels and seats are done very nicely. I will use the same method on some of my future projects as well. Excellent work so far.
  2. Ed Fluck at Drag City Casting did a similar Willys Pickup body a few years ago. Unfortunately it seems to be out of stock, but maybe it's worth checking out if someone has an extra copy of that kit that they're willing to sell. The quality on these Ed's bodies is top notch.
  3. I did not see this one coming, but I'm so happy to see this being reissued. There are never too many kits of these vintage Dragsters, and this kit has been on my "Want-list" for a long time... Needless to say, I'll be buying a couple when it's out.
  4. Yesterday I bought this '65 Rambler Classic 770 promo from a friend. Someone has cut the roof off in the past, so some bodywork needs to be done. Anyway, it's a great starting point. I'm thinking factory stock...
  5. Thanks for the kind words, they are much appreciated! I got the interior finished. It went together really nicely, but to be honest so far I can't remember having any issues with this kit overall. Steering wheel and steering column painted with Revell Enamel colors and for the steering wheel I used the kit supplied Ford decal. Dashboard is painted with grey primer from spray can, clear coated with gloss clear. Then I did some detail painting, used a bit BMF and black washing to bring out details. The radio and pedals were done pretty much the same method and glued on place. And here is the interior glued together: I also put decals on the body. Many of these old Police Cars have pretty few decals in them, so I didn't want to overdo it either. Sheriff logos to the doors and the "Car 5" textes on front fenders were enough. Now I'll let it dry over the weekend before clear coat.
  6. Seems like we have somekind of Like button now, I guess someone had liked my post somewhere as I got a notification and somekind of green box was right next to my post. As long as the like button doesn't kill communication, or comments on build threads/finished models, I'm fine with it. Several forums where I visit, they have the like button, but I've personally never used it. I much rather post a comment than click the button. I don't use FB either so don't know how it works over there. But let's see, if people are still posting comments on build threads and finished models, then the button doesn't matter me. But if there is only bunch of likes and zero comments, then at least I will post my builds somewhere else in the future. Let's see what happens.
  7. I agree, very nicely done Front Engine Dragster. I really like seeing these things either in real life or as scale models. Yours is definitely one of the best ones that I've seen. I think all of the steering linkages etc make a huge difference to the overall look, as those parts usually are lacking detail when using kit parts. Excellent work!
  8. Slowly but surely this is coming along... Today I got the firewall installed and painted the windshield wiper motor/hood latch unit with silver. A bit of Detailer's black wash and it was ready to be installed too. I also added the vacuum hoses for wipers as I read that these Fords had vacuum operated wipers. I'm not sure if they are 100% correct, but they should be fairly close anyway. Next I can finish the interior and add bunch of small details to the engine bay. And body needs decals too, so stay tuned...
  9. Thanks guys! That has happened to me in the past as well. Now I masked the edges with Tamiya "Masking Tape for Curves" (product number 87177) and have to recommend that masking tape for anyone. Easy to use and works great in curves as well.
  10. Some of the cars I've seen lately here in Finland... '63 Cadillac: Several VW Beetles, but this is the only one that I was able to take a picture of. Renault 4. A common car back in the day, nowadays not so much... '65 Buick Skylark... Very nice '64 Impala SS. Ford Cortina GT. Imperial Crown. Mazda 1300. These things were fairly common as well, but nowadays it's rare to see one in traffic. And a really cool Jeep J4000.
  11. I like to listen music while I'm building but sometimes silence is OK as well. Though many times the music stops for a while as I'm too concentrated on the model that I can't go and flip the record for side B or change it (Because vinyl records are the best). I usually don't listen to radio, because most of the times the music they play is not for me... I listen to '50s Rock N Roll and Rockabilly and '70s-'80s "Revival-Rockabilly" and pretty much nothing else.
  12. And today while the white paint was completely dry, I was able to do some more masking and shoot the black color on the body as well. Again, I used a couple of Tamiya Masking Tapes and then some generic cheap "painter's tape". It's not perfect, but pretty good. While the body dries, I hope I can get the interior completed and then put the decals on.
  13. Thanks Dennis! It's surprising how much difference a simple detail painting can make. And I agree on the stance, some kits sit pretty high if they're built out of the box, this one looks pretty good as is. Today I sprayed some gloss white on the body. Once that was touch-dry, I removed the masking tapes and it looks pretty good. The Tamiya tape seemed to work really well. Now I'll let it dry over the weekend and next week I can shoot some black to the rest of the body...
  14. Thanks JC and David, I appreciate the kind words! I finished up the door panels after painting the bottom parts of the upholstery with black and doing the panel lines with Tamiya's Panel Line Accent Color. Window cranks and door handles were of course painted silver. And I glued the seats on place. Once couple of smaller parts are dry, I can assemble the rest of the interior. The body looked finally like it is ready for paint. With this being two tone, and I decided to paint the white areas first, I had to do some masking. I used mostly two different Tamiya Masking Tapes and then some generic cheap "painter's tape". I shot some white primer to these areas and tomorrow I guess it's time to paint the roof and doors gloss white.
  15. Thanks for the kind comments everyone, they're highly appreciated. JC: Yes, the rear wheel openings will be cleaned up before the body goes in primer. I just need to do all fabrication work for engine bay/interior/chassis before primering the body, as grey primer will be the final color on this one. John: I've tried to use solder in the past for headers, but I was never quite happy with the results. I've seen some incredible solder headers done by other modelers, but I've found out that plastic rod works better for me. Right now I don't have another project that needs Fenderwell headers, so can't do a tutorial on them at this time. But, it's quite simple actually: First I make the header flanges from sheet styrene (cut to desired shape and drill holes for the header pipes). Glue them to the engine. Then I put the engine between the frame rails and just sort of eyeball where I have to bend the header pipes and in what direction. Important is to start from the rear cylinders that are closest to the firewall and work your way forward from there. And don't heat the plastic rod too much or it will melt. Every time you get a header pipe finished, glue it on to the header flange/engine and paint the headers later. You will need a small brush and a steady hand for this, but it can be done. The worst part on plastic rod is that if you screw up a bend, you can't undo it and try again like you would do with solder. But, in these cases, it is possible to cut the bad bend away, try again with a different piece of plastic rod and just create the header pipe from several pieces. But of course, then you need to smooth out the glue joints.
  • Create New...